Jump to content

factory

Moderators
  • Content Count

    1,687
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    59
Everything posted by factory
 
 
  1. Here is an example of a NOS Tecumseh coil, googling that you may find something similar to the O&R ones, but it would be best to contact anyone selling one you've found to make sure the sizes are the same and ignore any sellers that can't be bothered to respond. Certainly the primary side wiring looks a bit short on the coil pictured above. You mentioned you work in 3D printing in another thread, are there any fuel resistant rubber materials that can be used with 3D printing? If there is something suitable, some copies of these older spark-plug insulators would probably be of interest to quite a few of us. Note: these were an option on early engines instead of the spark-plug short out spring. David
  2. Good to hear you have finally found one for your collection, strange that someone borrowed the engine, as the rest of the parts look in good condition, good luck with the restoration. Probably was the one you mentioned by PM in January, they don't appear very often. David
  3. Looks in pretty good condition, those Orline hedge trimmers don't seem to appear as often as the Little Wonder ones. David
  4. Do you have a link for it or the picture? Can't really comment much without seeing it. Or was it this one (picture from ePay, sold in 2016) ? David
  5. No one has yet found out what the type 133 was actually fitted to, the problem is that the information is probably classified, assuming it hasn't been destroyed of course. The military did have some Champ generators, but the these use a different adaptor plate/housing to the engine here, the one I have is fitted with a type 122 engine and the serial number has been ground off, so maybe it got liberated by someone serving with the military. David
  6. Despite what the sellers may think, they aren't rare enough for that price, the military must have ordered hundreds of them and used very few of them, consequently many have ended up as surplus and eventually on ePay. I've got pictures of nearly 50 of them archived so far. David
  7. We have 'usedtoolman' to thank for the design of the test stand, I had forgotten how cold it is over where you are, definitely a spring project then. I hadn't spotted the tank was missing, it did have a air cleaner though and the removed exhaust collector bits, note that the type 133 was never supplied with a muffler. I have a boxed one and another slightly incomplete one in my collection, neither are in NOS condition. David
  8. The largest known machine is a Gyrocoptor, the O&R being used for the pre-rotator engine used for starting the main rotor blades on some Bensen B8M Gyrocopters, note that the 4 cylinder McCulloch engine is used for the propeller on the back; https://myoldmachine.com/topic/3599-mcculloch-drone-engine/ David
  9. If you ever need a replacement spark-plug boot, I did find that some made for Tecumseh engines were the same as those used on the O&R engines (apart from the early ones), just check with the supplier that it matches the picture, as you may get a useless modern one instead (been there done that), I did actually salvage & re-use one from a knackered coil too (note; they are a little tricky to fit due to the rubber hardening with age). David
  10. The Allman sprayer is second largest machine we know of to be fitted with the O&R engine, Paul did a superb job of restoring it, have a look at the before & after pictures in this thread (starting at post #8); https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1983-new-addition-to-the-or-webb-collections/?do=findComment&comment=22437 It may even be the last one left, unless anyone knows of another one out there. David
  11. It does look nice for displaying an engine, but is only usable for testing engines without a gearbox though, I thought you were planning to build an adjustable test stand similar to the one mentioned at the end of this thread (post #23); Also I noticed someone on ePay bought one of those NOS type 133 (ex-Mil) engines just for the cylinder & resold it without it, are they really that hard to find a replacement for these days? David
  12. Same here, I have found very few bad coils (I'm sure we discussed this on another thread at the end on last year), if you can find cheap knackered engines or tools they will be of more use to you than just buying a new coil, as you will end up with other parts that you will eventually need, knackered hedge trimmers seem to be common in the UK and damaged chainsaws in the US (as Wallfish said). I did look at other engine brands for replacement coils at one point, but decided they were just too expensive to buy in the hope that one may fit, bearing in mind that the shipping costs & import fees from the US cost basically doubles or even triples the price of an individual part for us in the UK too. I will have another look through my 1960's engine parts guides to see what could fit, they may indeed have been made by Phelon or even several different suppliers, as the design changed a couple of times over the years. Also note, the Series 20A engine uses Wico ignition parts to confuse matters (part number X18086 for the coil), I think Webhead may have spares for those. David
  13. I must confess I haven't actually used any new decals for my engines yet, I prefer to keep the original paint & decals unless they really are too for gone. Also I seem to have an OCD for the correct versions, I think I have seen at least six different variants of the starter decal for example, not to mention the later stick on types used on the top of the 13A/13B engine by both O&R & AEP. I do have a small amount of original water-slide decals I bought from Webhead as well as a couple of the later stick on type. David
  14. This thread can be closed, Atco is no longer available. David
  15. Just need to find this one to complete the set, someone must have it & the parts list below. David
  16. I had access to a very large multi tank ultrasonic machine (with hot air drying & vacuum drying tank) at work until about 6 months ago when they decided to EOL the line of work it was used for and dispose of it too, I will be honest it wasn't always that good at removing dirt, especially stuff on flat metal surfaces and was absolutely hopeless at cleaning very dirty metal parts (they often asked me to run items through it that it was never going to clean), but sometimes did an excellent (but unwanted) job of stripping PCB lacquer & even paint from the cases of items. And because the rinse tanks used water you could also end up with rusty parts too. The machine had 3.5kW of generator modules available for the powering the ultrasonic transducers and heating for all the liquid tanks. Most of the small ones aimed at hobbyists are toys by comparison & only any good for removing light dust from jewellery. I think one of the barrel type solvent cleaning tanks (uses some safer alternate to paraffin), with the solvent being continuously pumped through a brush would be far more useful for cleaning greasy/dirty engine bits, just no good for all the tiny bits that would get lost through the mesh. I just don't have space for one, plus they need cleaning out regularly too. David
  17. Nice find, looks like a fairly early one too. David
  18. I didn't try to remove that as the rod holding the mechanism together looks to be more like a rivet, will have a look again when I have more free time. Definitely useful to have a set of those to help with make new gaskets that are no longer available. I ended up buying a large Facom punch set, same as the one they have where I work (only because I found some punch sets for a third of the normal price on ePay), the set also has a adjustable bladed tool that can be used for creating larger round gaskets. David
  19. The original grease used by Little Wonder was Lubrico (or is it Lubriko?) M3-3K-9K, I get very few results if I search the web for that, so I guess it's no longer available. I will be using the same grease I use for the engine rebuild in mine (LM2 Lithium based), or use Lubriplate as recommended in the engine rebuild thread. To clean out the old grease I used an old dining knife to remove the bulk of it and will be cleaning the rest out (outside later in the year) with an old toothbrush & gas/petrol same as I do with any other part, with a alu/foil takeaway tray underneath to catch the crud. With new gaskets & O-ring seal you can just about turn the exhaust collector ring after the cylinder has been tightened, this allows you to move it a little for alignment to fit certain tools. If it's really loose then it's probably been apart for decarbonising & not had the gaskets renewed, if the starter housing doesn't fit properly then the cylinder is not screwed in far enough (I had this problem with one of my rebuilds, due to the new O-rings I bought being to thick). Note: The slots in the cylinder should line up (or be at right angles) with the crankshaft. David
  20. Here are the pictures of the gearbox I stripped down last weekend, as per the instructions the jam-nuts need to be removed first to allow the blade bar screws to be removed. I don't think topping up the grease will be enough for this one, it needs cleaning out completely later in the year when the weather improves (but it's no where near as cold over here at the moment compared with how Minnesota has been this week ). And here are those two threaded holes for the cutter bar. Hope this helps anyone with one of these. David
  21. There are a few different water-cooled cylinders for these engines, some were made by O&R & sold by Octura Models, there is even a part number for this in a early parts list. Others appear to be made by model engineers, I haven't yet found any articles for this, but I have got a cylinder somewhere that was damaged by someone trying to machine the fins off for the water jacket conversion. David
  22. I think I've sussed out what has happened, the tapped hole is where one of the two screws that attach the fixed part of the cutter bar to the gearbox casing is, I think the thread has become stripped (or the screw head broke off) and a previous repairer has drilled & tapped it for a longer replacement screw. Pictures of a partial strip-down of one of my parts donors to follow when I get them downloaded & edited from my camera. David
  23. Good luck, I've had some sellers where they thank you & correct it, but some that don't believe me or they completely ignore me, you just can't help some people. David
  24. Whoever buys that tank will be very disappointed when they find out it doesn't fit their Tiny Tiger generator. It doesn't ship internationally, so I can't inform the seller about the error in the title, or the price. David
 
×
×
  • Create New...