factory

The Yard-Arm is a hand held tool, the engine is attached to the tank in the usual way and the pole for the cutter attached to the clutch housing, no tank mounting tabs needed. David

There are a pair of parts ones here, which I bought for the missing bits on another (and the option of changing to the longer cutter bar), I did pull the cover off of one when I got it, but can't see the area your interested as it's obscured by grease, don't think any of mine have the tapped hole going through the casing. One of them also had this very nice glued-on replacement fin bodge on the flywheel (now gone for recycling, without the starter dogs of course). Sound like a great idea too, maybe even make the vent tank walls a little thicker so that it's less likely to get damaged. David P.S. Me and CAD programs don't seem to get on, I've wasted many hours trying different ones for electronics PCB design but can't find one I can get on with. I did also use AutoCAD many many years ago at college but only for 2D drawing.

It has been on there a while, I remembered it as it was different and looked it up again to permanently borrow the pictures, I imagine it will be on evilBay for many years at that price. Here are some pictures of another I saved years ago, showing what the seller of the currently listed one doesn't show, i.e. the lack of the two mounts (the price of this one was a more reasonable $22, in 2015). David

Here are the relevant Little Wonder manuals, if you haven't already found them; 2 part epoxy, Not sure if that will hold up to gas over time but I'm assuming you're not looking to trim your bushes with this, just collecting  The little red plastic bottle is described as the vent tank on the parts list and has a tiny hole in it to allow the trimmer to operate in different positions (as Wallfish said). Most of mine are either missing or broken apart from this one (which I collected in person from the seller); I have thought about making a replacement for the others from a section of brass tubing with some flat ends soldered on, with two smaller brass tubes for the vent tubing to attach to. David

I would suggest going to whatever the equivalent of a car-boot sale is in the US and taking the tank with you, to try the lids/caps from any old oil/solvent tins you may find for sale. I've already tried this with the old cans/tins from my brothers collection and none of the UK ones fit, they are all slightly too small, the standard UK size must be different from those found in the US. By the way the tank with the blanked off vent tube I posted a picture of yesterday is used on the Orline Yard-Arm according to my info (something that's not turned up yet, are any left?) it's part # A-32-26, it also has no mounts at the bottom so can't be used for anything where it needs to attach to a base plate. Since I bought some glass syringes, that were originally intended for measuring chemicals in laboratories (to replace a plastic one that the rubber seal died in with exposure to fuel), I have been using one with a small piece of the fuel line to direct cleaner/fuel into clogged/dirty tank filter tubes to clean them out. I really need to post a picture to better show this, but haven't as I can't hold a camera at the same time. David

For reference here is a picture showing the standard base tank. Other versions were made with an extended filler pipe & even one with no extra nipple for the tubing linking between the two sides. Here is what one of the filters looks like in these base tanks (using a very cheap low-resolution borescope & mirror, picture is also mirrored as a result), there are other versions depending on the age. David

There are at least three versions, each with their own decal/sticker, the Aquabug (& the UK version Perry) and the Mini Motor version, sadly none of my saved pictures are very clear for making a copy of the instructions decal. Here are pictures of the two best surviving decals on the pair of Perry Aquabug outboards from my collection, if anyone wants a better picture of these I can take some more. I hope it works out with CNew & your O&R collection doesn't get junked. David

This isn't mine, but here is what a new (almost) one of these Aquabug outboards would have looked like. Note it has a brass gauze instead of the normal air filter assembly. David

Here are some pictures of two parted out/in bits engines that I saved pictures of, they are a little different to the standard model plane versions. David

I've been researching for many years and saving pictures where I can too, which helps me provide as accurate information as I can and sometimes help date these engines too. It's looking very nice where you've cleaned it up, I'm surprised they didn't fill those holes & paint the air filter. If you want to change the carb & air filter keep a lookout for a cheap incomplete donor engine if you can find one and swap the carb & air filter over, it's certainly a rare enough to be worth doing this to complete it. David

Reproduction replacement parts for the car seem easy enough to find; https://www.ebay.com/itm/372548092769 An engine may be a bit harder to find. David

We don't get many request for O&R models or engines that predate the O&R Compact engines, I have a few of the model plane engines in my collection (will try & photo them together one day & post it here). I found this advert (in my saved pictures folder) for the toy midget racer (car) from 1954, if that helps to roughly date it, they were available without an engine for toddlers and with an engine for use as a tether car by older children (& presumably grown-ups too). I also have pictures of the instructions with it named as the O&R Motorjet, including the parts list; Hope this helps. David P.S. I think I have some pictures of the engine somewhere, which I will add here when I find them.

The auger section did look original to me, here are two others of the same auger (not mine), both have darker blue paint on the gearbox & lighter blue on the auger bit; #1 #2 David

Glad I could help , the rest of the parts listed yesterday sold pretty quick too. David

Don't know if your still looking, but here is one item that's almost as hard to find as rocking horse poo; https://www.ebay.com/itm/143090770658 David

Can I suggest you post some pictures of what you have, as this thread is a complete mess, maybe even start a new thread, last thing you want is the wrong part, as they increased the shaft sizes from the 3/4HP to the 1HP engine (also let us know the model or type of the engine). All the parts used on these engines (except the spark-plug thread) are imperial as far as I know. Rollers shouldn't be a problem to obtain, the original races more of a problem. Also check out the carb rebuild thread if you haven't seen it and remember to remove any old crumbly filter foam from the air cleaner/filter assembly. David

The last episode of that series does if my memory is any good. It's a comedy history of Britain, there was another for Shakespeare. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b09yp1gr/episodes/guide Philomena Cunk's (not her real name) 'moments of wonder' was originally a mock-u-mentary segment of the Charlie Brooker TV series 'Screenwipe' & later 'Newswipe' which also featured Barry Shitpeas (another made up name) and US comedian Doug Stanhope, I wish they would make some more. David

You shouldn't expect every O&R to be in mint condition, they are around 40 to 50+ years old, most of them were bought to use and some had a much harder life then others (eg, hedge trimmers & crop sprayers in the UK) and people didn't always look after them or store them in a nice dry shed. It takes time & patience to obtain (or make) the necessary parts for restoring these small engines & their tools, sometimes a donor engine is needed too. 1, No spark, check the usual, points, wiring etc. 2a, Drilled out starter rivet , happens more often than you may think, I suspect in the past it was much harder to find out the correct way without service information. Can be sorted with a new rivet if it isn't drilled out too much (been there fixed one before). Putting your first spring back in is more tricky fun. 2b, It looks a later engine so a replacement crankshaft shouldn't be too hard to get, unlike an early one (like rocking horse poo, I eventually found a bare donor engine for one once). 3, Pictures of two others suggest the gearbox is indeed a darker blue than the auger section, they probably bought in/out-sourced the auger section rather than make it themselves. 4, Carb damage, again very common problem, eg. cracked casting where air cleaner attaches, broken off choke lever, broken needle valve & missing bits (look for spare ones or spares engine). Along with missing/damaged air vane or air filter/cleaner assembly. 5, Dirty and or rusty tanks, most seem to be like this (unless never used), clean if possible, you maybe able to disassemble with a can opener & solder/braze back together (not yet tried this, I'm also thinking of making some tanks from some small coffee tins). Filter often clogged too, can be cleaned using a glass syringe attached to the fuel line pipe to gently pass cleaner solvent or fuel through. 6, Coil rusty, I've had very few problems with coils, but they are often rusty from bad storage/neglect, clean with small wire brush/wheel (sometimes you can remove the steel core to make this easier). Good luck with the restoration & if let us know if you find more augers, it something my collection lacks and I'm sure Paul would like one too. David

It looks perfectly restorable to me. Send it over here. I've fixed worse. David

Maybe you need to build an engine test stand, here are some pictures of the one 'usedtoolman' built on the old forum, original post here; https://web.archive.org/web/20130814204047/http://ohlssonandrice.forumer.com:80/engine-test-stand-t1232248.html Here some pictures of mine, which didn't quite go as planned (I have the posts spaced a little too close together), need to drill & tap some more holes in it at some point, the large chuck of steel came from an engineering surplus stall at one of the local engine shows. David

Been looking through saved pictures and found one showing the parts list, unfortunately the clutch drum with gear & output gear have O&R part numbers, so they could be the die cast ones. I've also noticed one of my engines has the type of pulley for the belt drive used on the Comet Circular Saw, so could have possibly been a NOS replacement for one. I've also noticed there are at least three slightly different versions of the Comet Circular Saw. David

Yes it looks right to me, the crankcase pulse tube goes the pipe on the carb pump cover and the fuel line to the pipe on the carb main body. David

It's likely to be fitted with an early engine, so expect it to have the plastic bearing races, not sure about the gearbox as it's not a standard O&R one (early O&R ones had die-cast gears). Here are some pictures of the gearbox used on the Comet chainsaw (permanently borrowed from ePay); David

I don't know about the Tas Motor, but the O&R gearboxes are filled with one & a half tablespoons of grease (from the chainsaw manual), someone who sold & serviced the O&R chicken power kits in San Diego said that the clutch wouldn't engage properly if there was too much grease on the clutch, see here; https://motorbicycling.com/threads/lack-of-speed-with-chicken-motor.19076/#post-632019 David

I haven't seen one advertised for some time so can't help with the value (then again I don't have time the search through all chainsaw listings to find them), also I can't really comment on how complete it is without seeing it. Usually the non-Orline chainsaws go for more $ as many more people collect chainsaws, but they are no where as costly as the minibikes, which are by far the most expensive O&R powered item these days. David