factory

The Bridges drill gearbox uses oil, with top-ups every ten hours of use, I imagine the Drillgine will too. The seal, could be replaced by a O-Ring of the correct diameter & thickness if you can't find something similar to the original & if it's not reusable. Pictures below of the Comet drill manual (which is the same but without the throttle control) from 'Neons' sale thread; David

Yes the handle is a twist throttle control (only fitted to the deluxe models, none of mine ), as shown on the parts image I posted the other day, part #40 below; David

I guess we never mentioned Wallfish & Webhead have a supply of the carb diaphragms (Webhead used to sell them on eBay), hopefully you sourced a suitable material. I will edit the first post of carb rebuild thread so the information can be found easily. It's probably best to use NOS gaskets rather than ones that have been used, as they tend to get crushed or they fall apart on removal. John, do you need some NOS ones to get them copied, PM me if needed. I need to have a think about what I would use too, probably would still use my punch & cutter kit to make the less commonly needed gaskets. If it helps I have edited the scanned parts list index to show the majority of gaskets types used on these engines (later six digit codes not shown, need to add them later). The higher the number in the code column indicates parts that are rarely used, although some #2's are shown against parts that were in the original kits/sets. The last four are for the chainsaws only. Not shown above or NLA; 5-3 Crankcase flange gasket (shown as NLA) 5-16 Muffler gasket (shown as NLA) 18-10 Primer diaphragm valve 95-2 Diaphragm membrane A-18-10 Primer diaphragm valve assembly (two parts; 5-4 & 18-10) From all that we have already had these parts reproduced so far; 5-36 (diaphragm cover gasket), 18-10 (primer/check valve) & 95-2 (diaphragm membrane). David

This is from one of the brochures I have, almost exactly the same apart from having a cutaway gearbox too. David

Nice find and no it hasn't been posted before, as google hasn't plagiarised the back issues of Mechanix Illustrated it's not easy to find out how many issues contain O&R articles. Looks like the wheelbarrow, garden roller, cart, pedal car, lawnmower, cultivator & unicycle are all actually examples of possible uses for the 'Tiny Mite' powered wheel, which was made in eight, ten & twelve inch versions, with an optional extra fork or frame to use with equipment of your choice. They also sold the mini-scooter too. Not sure I would like to try that unicycle at 17mph. I wonder how they kept the two engines synchronised. David

Thank you for adding the pictures. As the resolution of pictures is limited to save forum space we would be grateful if you could email them in higher resolution either to me or Wallfish and we should be able to create a higher resolution PDF for the manuals thread. Also we should be able to help better now we have more information. As the engine looks clean & the tank is also clean, it is possible it was never used, or it maybe only tested once & was then drained of fuel & properly cleaned for storage. It looks like yours (& mine) are the Creme Lure 'Sportman' Model S with a 300W 110-120V AC output. Wallfish has the Nichols equivalent (Model D) of the Model C, which adds the charging outputs at 6V & 12V DC. One of the questions from the earlier posts was the function of the start/run switch, this is described as providing a hot spark (it's hard to see how it's wired from the picture) and also disconnects the generator output for easier starting of the engine (with no load). The parts list also confirms the knurled plastic adjuster cap for the needle valve. David

The models mentioned in this thread so far; Creme Lure Model S (AC outlet only) Creme Lure Model C (AC outlet + Charging at 6V/12V) Nichols Model D (AC outlet + Charging at 6V/12V), this one made twice the price of the Creme Lure versions. Mine also has the red cap for the carb needle, the hole added to the handle looks like a previous owners modification . Another picture I archived to my computer, showing the coils through the damaged casing, not sure whether it was a delivery victim or the plastic become brittle with age. David

Don't know why I didn't post the other two internal pictures I took when extracting the batteries a few years ago. I think this shows why I didn't bother putting new batteries in to try it. Needs the rust cleaning from the terminals with the Dremel, which will be tricky as they are heat-staked into the plastic casing. The rust will add a significant resistance at the low voltage from the batteries (3V). John, is yours the one from post #3? If it is I will see if I can find a lens for the lamp-holder, must have something amongst all the stuff I got from work or the spares for my vintage electronics. David

Thank you for posting that, if you are able to picture or scan some of it we would be very interested in adding it to the manuals thread. If the O&R instructions sheet is dated 5-1-62 then I already have a high-res scan to go on the thread, but I don't have a decent copy of the parts diagram dated 9-1-62. Never seen the Creme Lure instructions or advert sheet before, is that the original dealer's card to the left of the advert? David

It does indeed sound like it may have never been used, is there is anything in the instructions specifically for the generator? I've never seen anything myself. The magazine & newspaper articles mentioned in previous posts (#4 & #11) are the only information I have found so far for this generator. David

Welcome & thanks for posting the pictures, it looks in very nice condition and is the first one I've seen with the original box, are the instructions still with it? These do appear occasionally, but are much less common than the other O&R powered generators. The problem isn't necessarily the plastic being cheap, more to do with early plastics ageing badly and/or reacting with chemicals, fuel/gas/oil & even UV light from the sun. Causing cracking, discolouration/fading of the casing and the tank to become deformed. You may find other problems I had such as, the glue no longer holding the generator coils in place and decades old batteries leaking (if still fitted). Edit: Actually I need to investigate further to see how the coils are kept in place, I only originally opened it up to extract the dead batteries. David

That's looking very nice now. From the parts list PDF in post #4 the throttle cable was used with models 288 & 289 which have a longer 28" cutter bar instead of the standard 24" cutter bar for the models HT-24, 248, 249. There is also a model 303 with a 30" cutter bar. David

I'm sure a read somewhere that some people removed the governor vane to try & get more speed out of the engine too. The standard bike motor kit was supposed to achieve a max of 15 to 18mph, probably to keep within speed restrictions for bicycles, note that they may not be legal to use on UK roads either (would need annual testing, insurance, drivers license, road tax...... etc). The original kits also came with a selection of parts to allow it to fit different bike frames. David

Well there may actually be a part number for the lock spring, as it looks to be the same as the carb needle spring (part #21-20) used on early engines (carb with side needle valve), it's the same number of turns & diameter. I need to be careful not to break the needle to confirm the spring length (at the weekend) or find one that's already loose. Then you should be able to find a suitable replacement, if John hasn't got one. David

If this engine is seized, how on earth did the seller verify it has compression . David

This TAS P5 engine from Webhead has a P5 decal, the chainsaw picture is one of Webhead's too, I believe he sold it. I only have one TAS Motor (Tanaka) engine myself, which is a bit newer than these. I don't like the modifying of the model number, if it is wrong it just adds confusion , I do have the original tag for a TAS P71 engine though. David

I would need to check both later in the week, has the carb been vandalised by someone wanting the add a RC servo? That seems to be what happens to few of them, along with losing the governor vane. The lock mechanism & spring wasn't sold separately, the 'governor spring retainer' is what O&R described the copper colour wire as (part no. #27-5, picture from the web), I can check the wire with a magnet but I suspect it's copper. It's a good idea to keep damaged carbs for parts like these, as both John & me have. David

I thought the service manual would have made more myself, as you don't see them very often and there are probably only a small number of surviving manuals out there compared with engines. Annoyingly it had the Ford stuff that is missing from my master service manual (note they are identical to the Orline versions apart from the decal). Also every manual seems to have the odd extra item added for tools that the dealers requested information for. And of course I'm happy to help with requests from my service manual, assuming it's in there. If they don't look to have been modified then it's possible that O&R never documented the change, they certainly altered some parts several times during the first year or two of production and I've come across modified parts that never got an updated part number as well. Here are a couple more flywheels from early engines in my collection (that got photo-ed in the past), I noticed the extra pins seem to vary in size and are sometimes not there at all. They have the same starter dogs as SN #006403 from post #18. Early engine with no serial number, two small pins. Early engine SN #003683, two sets of different sized pins. Here are the early & later starter dogs that I posted in a older thread, yours would go in between if they are indeed unmodified. David

The Champion UY6 definitely fits the P-74 TAS engine, the chainsaw pictured below was one of Webhead's. David

I collect pictures of anything unusual, the pump is the same as others used with O&R's but with the custom cover plate for MERC-O-TRONIC. It's a shame you can't just buy the pump from Proven, which I believe was the OEM. Note, the bases on the other two of these pumps I have saved pictures of look to be bent too. A tank strap should be easy to make from some steel strip, or use a temporary permanent fix, a large cable tie. David

Coming this way too. Think I got about 4 imports so far Same here, but it hasn't stopped me from importing many O&R's from the US and lots of vintage HP test gear from all over the world. Followed by plenty of trips to Stoke to collect my parcels & pay customs if needed. It's a shame that ePay's GSP don't like anything engine related any more, as they where often cheaper for larger items, their prices are a joke for small items & literature though. David

A little bit late for this one, but I have now edited & posted the service bulletin for repairing these early starter mechanisms in the Manuals thread; Hope it's useful to you in the future. David

My first recoil did the same, the spring went boing too. These engines do have a bad habit of rattling out any loose screws. Thank you for measuring the pulley, mine is the same size and type of pulley, maybe it was a spare engine after all. Here is what one of my early starter pawls looks like, did you adjust the little spring before putting it back together? Edit: from SN #006403. David

More patience needed, I've had plenty of stuck pistons, I usually pour plenty of oil in through the spark-plug hole to cover the cylinder, leave it a week and using the flywheel gently try rotating each way, hopefully in will start to move (of course you will need a key for the flywheel, which can be cut from aluminium sheet of the correct thickness & filed to shape). I've only had one engine where this did not work, I did manage to remove the piston without further damage as it had a 14mm spark-plug hole, it was possible to press the piston out (note the previous owner had snapped the con-rod), I believe that engine had been run with no oil in the fuel, I never did get the rings off the piston though. Never try pressing the piston out of an engine with a 10mm plug unless you want a hole in it. David

I'm guessing it was this one, the engine looks in good condition to me, just needs some screws for the starter & a tank strap, air filter has gone as usual! https://www.ebay.com/itm/2047675.l2557 Actually I recognise the stand, it was originally a MERC-O-TRONIC MIN-I-PUMP, I would be asking the seller if they have the pump for it. Pictures below from ePay & another auction site, the second one had that piece of paper about the 'X' needle valve & was SN #122575, five numbers away from your engine. David