factory

I found some pictures of an incomplete one, showing the inside of the gearbox. I think it confirms where this bevel gear & broken gasket in my spare parts came from. David

The E3.10 spark-plug seems to be sold by places like 'Homedepot' & 'CanadianTire', does it say on it where it's made? (I can't read the text on the bottom half of it), also it looks to be longer reach than the CJ8 or CJ14, so check it doesn't hit the piston if you use it. The comparison chart on Amazon suggests this plug is not the correct replacement for a CJ8/BM6A or CJ14/BM4A; https://www.amazon.com/E3-Spark-Plug-E3-10-Garden/dp/B000BPS038 David

I take it you have already separated the engine from the propeller & shaft section to confirm the lower section is seized? I actually store mine separated to prevent further damage to the fragile plastic engine covers. Sadly the manual doesn't have a exploded view of the propeller section or a parts list. One of mine has the opposite problem to yours, the engine doesn't turn the propeller (which is free to turn on it's own) , I hope it's just the shear pin that needs replacing, the pair I bought also came with some bits that may have come out of a third Aquabug. Maybe I should have a look inside the gear-case when I investigate the problem & add some pictures. David

The outboard motor is an Aquabug, I scanned and added a manual for the UK version to this thread; Looks like you had two Paramount trimmers at one time (the parts hi-lighted in post #8 are from a parted out one), I suspect the yellow starter was originally on one of the chainsaws too. Also the other trimmer is a Little Wonder (the engine, tank & red handle that is currently on it belong to the parted out Paramount one). This is the correct engine & handle for the Little Wonder trimmer above. It would have originally looked something like these; I scanned my manuals for the Little Wonder trimmer & powerhead and added them to this thread; David

Can't imagine that would be much fun in the rain or the middle of winter , could it be a demonstration set-up for a salesman? David

I had found that link with the history a couple of years ago and it was added to another Tas Motor/Tanaka thread on here too (which I think you have already found). I also have one Tanaka engine in my collection too, but don't know what it came off, not found anything as old as the P7 engine for sale in the UK yet though. David P.S. Like the translation too, now where can I get my "celebrated" motor oil .

Is there a model number anywhere for the Auger itself? Does it use a 10mm or 14mm spark-plug and what is currently fitted? I did find some Tanaka manuals on manualslib.com; https://www.manualslib.com/brand/tanaka/ Of which this water-pump looks to have a similar sized but slightly newer looking engine, it uses the 14mm NGK BM6A spark-plug (which is often found as a replacement in the later O&R engines, as an equivalent to the Champion CJ8); https://www.manualslib.com/manual/168073/Tanaka-Qcp-121.html#manual David P.S. Seems like there was a Tas Motor P7 manual (1973) available, just need to find someone that still has one. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tas-motor-owners-manual-model/dp/B00X65IBTI/

Apart from the starter mechanism & tank the P-7 TAS motor (22cc) doesn't look to have much in common with the O&R Compact engine. I'm not sure I believe all of what it says on the history page though; https://www.metabo-hpt.com/us/main-navigation/tanaka-history Given the fact that the O&R compact engine (approx 20cc -22cc) was in production at least a year or two before the P7 and many products & tools using O&R were available in 1961, they can't possibly claim this " 1962 Introduced the world’s smallest industrial general-purpose two-cycle engine- P7 (22cc) ". From their history it does look like TAS/Tanaka went from bigger engines to smaller, whereas O&R originally made model engines before the larger Compact engine. But being Japanese it seems impossible to research some of the engines mentioned, nor can I find much about the connection with Villiers in the UK (misspelt Villers on the history page !). David

That one shows all the parts that aren't used on the O&R version, probably because the adjustment screws & throttle parts would fit in the space available on the 13B engine, so they had to choose the fixed speed version. Note the diagram I posted is the correct version for your carb, I didn't post the rest of the page as it's from a book that is still available and I don't want any copyright problems, it doesn't say what speed it's fixed at though. Make sure you have it firmly attached to something before starting it. David

I'm surprized this one is still available, I've linked it before a long time ago when someone else was looking for one (it's still wrongly listed as a muffler ). https://www.ebay.com/itm/151587552778 Was the saw you bought this one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/2047675.l2557 It looks nice & clean from the outside, usually the alloy rots badly if the original owner didn't clean the sawdust off (the sap is corrosive) after use. If the inside of your tank looks like one in the first two pictures then it may just be crud, the third picture shows a tank with alloy that is self corroding. Note there were three different tank seals depending on the serial number of the engine. David

$51? sounds like no discount at all to me, also the fixings aren't with it, personally I wouldn't buy any more of that sellers bits without seeing more pictures of the item (you can't always tell the condition from one picture), I've been disappointed before. The Orline chainsaws turn up more often than you may think, which is reflected in the low prices achieved for auctions on ePay (see post #5). I certainly would rather buy a parts saw than the two BIN items. David

Also sold as the Wards Model 10 Digger (Earth Auger) with a different tank. David

Not sure of the actual maker (but it could be General equipment Co of Owatonna, Minnesota), but it looks like they where badged for Herter's Incorporated of Waseca, Minnesota (a long gone mail order catalog). Here are some low-res pictures permanently borrowed from ePay showing this; David

I wouldn't call the Little Wonder trimmer rare, they must have been one of the best sellers over here in the UK & lots have survived. Two Augers in one month, where do you keep finding them? David

Looks like it got dropped or something, make sure whatever epoxy you use is non-conductive for obvious reasons. David

Ok, here a couple of what I have already found (note that some articles have no pictures). Flying Magazine; July 1963 pages 16 (Tiny Tiger) & 17 (Lineboy Towbar), https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=EBHsiSx3bGIC&lpg=PA4&pg=PA16#v=onepage&q&f=false Motor Boating Magazine; February 1966 page 53 (General Equipment Co. Ice Auger), https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=w9P7M9kexugC&lpg=PP1&pg=RA1-PA53#v=onepage&q&f=false November 1969 page 35 (Tiny Tiger), https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=XQ5QW3Vu-tQC&lpg=PA3&pg=PA35#v=onepage&q&f=false Let me know if the links work properly and I will add some more. David

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the flange for the carb looks to be cast as part of the induction housing on this engine, which may explain why Webhead didn't have any adaptor plates when I bought one of the Tillotson carbs from him. David

Seems my previous post crossed with yours. That sounds good, there will be something out there as I've seen after-market filters fitted before, people with access to a lathe have made their own too. David

Those are even harder to obtain as they are more commonly missing, I tend to bid less on engines or tools missing these, exhaust parts or tanks, but there must be a pile of these unobtainium parts removed from RC modded engines somewhere. David

He's got the gasket for between the carb & the engine in the kit; Not sure there is a need to make a new gasket for the other side, as the flange fitting doesn't look to have any means to filter the air (unless he plans to make something for that too), these trimmers used a flexible pipe to extend the air filter away from the worst of the dust likely to generated in use. It looks like the pulse tube is needed to operate the pump in the carb (shown in the top part of the diagram below), I plan to add a tube to mine for this, that the least of the problems, I can't remember if I mentioned it before but an adaptor plate is needed between the carb and the induction housing, I suspect this hasn't been pictured as it's still attached to the engine. I did start making a diagram to produce this part, unfortunately life got in the way & I've lost the diagram too. David

That was the seller I was thinking of, I don't understand why they keep listing assemblies separately either. It's the same with the tanks, one half each listing, all the internals removed and the hard to find seal ruined. Not they also damage some parts on removal and advertise stuff that belongs in the scrap, check before buying. David P.S. some O&R engines never had air filters either, the outboard motors being one example.

I don't have access to any torque wrenches myself either, but I did post a chart a few days ago in the coil thread with the info on the flywheel torque spec; David

I was going to suggest a seller that may have one (but they must be on holiday as their listings are hidden), but it may be cheaper for you to buy another saw than an air filter. Found these bargains under completed listings (we can only dream of finding an O&R chainsaw at those prices over here in the UK); Keep looking, I don't think it will be as hard to find as you think. Also I have seen the tank seals on ebay (none recently though), I would advise not taking them apart unless you need to, as the service notes mention the seal swells if it has been used; I would advise against using any silicone sealant that is acid based/curing as it will corrode the alloy, read the safety data-sheets of anything you find as they usually mention the chemicals used and also make sure it won't be dissolved by the gas/fuel. I haven't taken any of my tanks apart, but 'Terry L' on here did (a base tank) in this thread here; David

Here are some pictures of a Model 149 (not mine) showing the air filter assembly; David

This is what you are missing; David