HeadExam

Leave it as it is ,it's only original once

If all the paints original give it a coat of Owatrol.

Thanks Alain! yes, as you say there is no engine spec number decal, the small hp decal is present and after scratching off the paint we can determine that it is a 7hp model. 

The Jonsered appears to be  49SP http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/084bb064dcc6912b88256b69007e2ffa?OpenDocument The Danarm is a very nice old saw as well, http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/9185446ae58f5c7c88256b4e0066f91a?OpenDocument . The Pro Mac 60 is another nice old saw, http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/ab2c4eb6cab868aa88256c2e0075f710?OpenDocument . The Mac338 is a much newer saw that only appears old. about circa 2000

Here is the engine manual and a Massey 7E page so you can see original tyres and paint  http://www.simplicityva.com/ymf/executive.html  .You probably don't have the Kohler spec and serial number decal that was originally on the engine so you will have to look closely at the TP manual and find what sump, generator, air breather, rope start or electric start or both and other parts that were particular to your engine, by doing so you maybe able to determine the original 7 hp Kohler variant Duro Corporation installed into the Massey 7E. I would say it is real possible that it is a spec number of 2801 or very close to that. The TP manuals allow you to look up the spec number and cross reference which parts were used on your tractor.
K161-L161_7HP_TP1053A.pdf

Hi all another Tractor out for the rallies ,  now fitted with Rubber Tyres for the first time in years .Still quite a handfull even on Rubbers .                                                                Lovely sounding Two Stroke Engine 3.5 hp  only second owner from new born in 1947 and supplied by A M Russell Edinburgh .to a Market Garden in Denny Falkirk            Question should this be painted our preserved as is ,thanks for your comments 

I have become aware that many do not have the Kohler TP manuals that show all the variants on different Kohler engines and how to find the right part. The best way to tell is to download the Kohler TP manual on each engine model (or your engine) and compare part numbers, There are two sump pans for the K301 and K341 that interchange, but there are many more that don't. It depends on what tractor and engine as much as the horsepower . The TP manuals show all the various parts used on each engine i.e. all the starters and generators used on the all the different k301 variants, all the oil pans, carburetors, dipsticks, alternators, air breathers, etc. There is also a numerical system incorporated in the TP manuals that allows you to know what part was used on your variant by the use of the spec number that is on the engine. This is all basic reference 101 and saves much times and money in finding parts that actually fit. Attached is the TP manual for the Kohler K301. This manual covers dozens of K301 variant engines and if the "spec number" sticker is missing from your engine there is a website that you can find it. If anyone one wants TP manuals for other Kohler engines let me know
Kohlerl_K301_12HP_IPL_TP2097.pdf
K321_14HP_TP-691-B.pdf
K341_16HP_TP-983-B.pdf

The best way to tell is to download the Kohler TP manual on each engine model (or your engine) and compare part numbers, There are two sump pans for the K301 and K341 that interchange, but there are many more that don't. It depends on what tractor as much as what hp. The TP manuals show all the various parts used on each engine i.e. all the starters and generators used on the all the different k301 variants, all the oil pans, carburetors, dipsticks, alternators, air breathers, etc. There is also a numerical system incorporated in the TP manuals that allows you to know what part was used on your variant by the use of the spec number that is on the engine. This is all basic reference 101 and saves much times and money in finding parts that actually fit. Attached is the TP manual for the Kohler K301. This manual covers dozens of K301 variant engines and if the "spec number" sticker is missing from your engine there is a website that you can find it. If anyone one wants TP manuals for other Kohler engines let me know
Kohlerl_K301_12HP_IPL_TP2097.pdf

Advert arrived today as well...
 

TSP is tri sodium phosphate a water based alkaline cleaner (strong soap, no bubbles), whats the red saw, cant see it

This is a XL-102 Automatic, its a 1970 saw weighing 11 pounds and has 57cc with auto oiler and manual over ride. These were only made in 1970 and 1971 I have one from both years. I couldn't get NOS decals so I had to do the best I could. Still need to install the carb and find a appropriate spot on the shelf. Last picture is what the saw looked like before

Many thanks for the information it is heavy LOL  but I was given both the blue ones and the red one  a few years back.  I did get one running but due a major house renovation they have sat on the back burner for a while but th information you have given me is a big help and inspiration as well as the photos on here of course. Is TSP a  thinners solvent ?

That is a Homelite C-51, made between 1964-1967. Here is some information http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/b7dfa302dafd0c9188256b7c001833a1?OpenDocument 
Parts are still easily attainable. The C stood for convertible because these saws often were used as power plants for post hole augers, ice augers, power generators and water pumps, they also had a clutch attachment to change from a direct drive chain to a gear reduction chain. These C series saw were way overbuilt structural and while heavy for the hp, were reliable over many more years than most saws. The C-51 was 77 cc's, the larger C-71 was 80.5 cc's and the C-91 was 85.5 cc's. Sand blasting with walnut hulls will prep the saw for paint and I recommend a cleaning in a alkaline based cleaner such as TSP or equivalent.

Many thanks for the info and here is a photo of my sad little collection that I hope to get on with later in the year

I doubt if there is any book or literature on restoring saws. I collected over 40 old Homelite chainsaws and over 100 Homelite chainsaw manuals, then collected new spare parts for all of them. Cleaning and paint prep on magnesium is different than other metals, but painting a 2 stroke machine that needs to be gas and oil resistant requires a epoxy clear top coat.

Wow that is stunning!! in fact I think I may have a similar one will check tomorrow in the meantime can anyone point in the direction of how to renovate a chainsaw as I have a couple that need sorting and I need to read up on how best to do this before I start
 

This is a XL-102 Automatic, its a 1970 saw weighing 11 pounds and has 57cc with auto oiler and manual over ride. These were only made in 1970 and 1971 I have one from both years. I couldn't get NOS decals so I had to do the best I could. Still need to install the carb and find a appropriate spot on the shelf. Last picture is what the saw looked like before

We were caught out by the snow last year and had to rush around getting the snow blade out of storage. Joseph wanted us to be prepared this year just in case we get snow. He had made a video of the preparation
 
 
 

Well, perhaps just a subdued British 1920s refurb ! 
I'm hoping I'm not tempting fate here by starting this before I am confident it can be saved and bring back to working order, but I have reached a point where I am reasonably confident.
The intention is not just to keep this a mystery 'til near the end, but to document the challenges of working on what can only be described as an old garden sculpture that used to be a machine.
I reckon that this machine had a useful life of about 7- 10 years from early 1922. Thereafter, it was abandoned and left outside for at least 20 years with only the oil laden dirt to protect it.
It had later (in the mid 50s) been moved to inside an old van and stored there until it saw the light of day back in Sept 18. Always been in the original purchaser's family possession until then.
 
Being of the ilk that likes a challenge, this may be harder than I've been used to in the past. The engine is obsolete and I have no parts information for it, or the machine's frame.
I have acquired some excellent info on the engine and carburettor and has allowed me to progress with checking wear tolerances and set up.
I make no apologies for all the detail in the thread, as I hope it may be of use to anyone who also attempts to tackle an old Villiers engine etc.
 
Work began on the engine to see if it was salvageable. This is the Villiers MkV 269cc 2 stroke of 1922.
It is the engine version that was first to use the flywheel magneto patented around 1920 by Villiers. Very simple and effective at that time-
 
   
 
Known as the large flywheel type Magneto (8 1/2" dia or 216mm), the engine had undergone several revisions since it's inception in 1913.
Designed originally for motor bicycles, this one has a variable timing Armature back plate, but has no use for this machine's application, as the ignition timing is for TDC!.
Flywheel is matched to this Armature Plate having identical numbers stamped on them.
Condition of the engine externally was badly corroded Fins etc on most upper parts, as you will see in various pics.
Internally was pretty dirty and no evidence of ever having been de-carbonised as it had a very thick layer inside the piston. Obviously the rings were seized after about 80 years-

 
This engine, being very early 1922 was still fitted with 3 Rings. Later 1922 engines appear to have only 2 at the top?. Production of this engine ceased in September of '22' .
I had suspected the wear in this engine to be quite bad, as it was designed to be upright and not horiziontally mounted, but was surprised that it was reasonably good as cleaning progressed.
Years of oily dirt helped to keep the corrosion down in certain areas which can be seen in this pic-

 
Note:- the chain was fitted to provide restraint while undoing the Crankshaft nut to remove the Fan.
Once the engine was liberated from the frame, the internals were dismantled. Piston gudgeon (wrist pin) pin is the 'Drive In/Out' type and locked with Cotter/Spit pins.
With this removed I found serious wear to the pin and con rod 'Small End' bushing. The cause being no oil hole visible to allow lubrication!.
Having been blessed with access to a donor engine of the later type (2 piston rings), I obtained a good and little worn gudgeon pin, but had no option other than to make a new 'small end' bushing.
I put that to one side while further evaluation was made. Cylinder  and it's bore was cleaned and looked quite good considering and maybe just a hone required.
Despite virtually no scoring in the bore or the ring faces, the wear limit of the ring gap is excessive and really needs new ones and a hone. Piston is good.
Donor engine bore etc are poor condition.
 
Valuable information came by the way of old editions of 2 different books by motor cycle enthusiasts of the 30s onwards, namely  Cyril Grange & B.E Browning.
Between the two books, I was able to extract all the max wear tolerances and most procedures.
I did have a problem finding the best way to remove the large brass retaining disc/washer that retained the Armature Plate. It also appeared distorted or cup shaped -
 

 
I was also concerned about the wear marks from the Flywheel on the armature plate's face, just visible top L/R of pic above. 
Disc/washer was a press fit onto the Crankshaft, so I went carefully and used 2 small levers to evenly prize it away with the expectation of finding an oil seal of some type behind it,  only to find nothing!.
Never had any oil seal fitted and no sign of leaks etc!!, all metal running fits. I reckon the cup shaped look of the washer was from strain of some kind and should be flat?.
At the same time, I had fears of the Lock Screw at the back of the Plate being totally seized, as it only has a screwdriver slot, or what was left of it-
 

 
I found the heftiest flat bladed lever I could use and to my surprise after a little of my releasing fluid, it unscrewed smoothly and the plate could be removed exposing the corrosion and rot-
 

 
The list of jobs was gradually increasing the more I delved, and the damage from it's last runs was appearing. 
I tested the HT Coil using ohms resistance just to endorse it was dead, found there was still continuity in the 2nd winding, but only had half of the normal resistance. Going new anyway.
modern version of this pre WW2 HT Coil is available, as well as the HT Lead, but not cheap.
 
So by this point, I knew what was needed, what could be done and obtained to get this running again.                                                 ......soon to be cont'd.
     
 
   

I propose we ban the EU. And soon before we're not even allowed to sneeze.

We replaced the battery and make up some new battery leads for the Estate Keeper. Joseph did the work, it took him a long time but he got it done
 
 

It is really disheartening to see much of the media has turned toward tabloid journalism. The profession has really take a downturn. The smearing of people no matter what their their political affiliations are is despicable and lowdown, and it seems that there is no end to this, because the fines these papers pay pale in comparison to the profit they generate. I'm not sure if the media is biased toward one side or the other, my honest inclination is they create division to increase profits.

I have a friend who was a journalist on a local paper. He'd no time for the tabloid journalists. He said they weren't interested in the truth, just a good story.

I wouldnt do business with a twice convicted child molester, but others can do what the wish. Its been a matter of public record for almost a decade.
https://www.homefacts.com/offender-detail/MO53885899/Brian-Keith-Miller.html

Probably about 1948