Fix'em all

Popped over for  a look today
 
Blowing a gale and raining so did not stay long
 
Harry was walking in as I was walking out so will no doubt have some prices...
 
 

Well, I'm calling this (sort of) finished... I screwed it to a bit of scrap MDF as a temporary measure to run it, and much to my surprise it started on the third kick. However, it was 'hunting' badly and after playing with the governor setting with no real improvement I called it a day. Yesterday I had a closer look at the carb and checked the manual re: setting and discovered that the mixture screw is missing! Looking at the 'before' photos it was missing when I got the engine. I have emailed Meteens so hopefully I will be able to get it running properly. If so I will try to post up a video.
 

Despite the weather I still nearly finished this project at the weekend

Despite the weather I still nearly finished this project at the weekend

It's a S200 5hp engine. Just had a look online & it is more rare than I thought it was. Best I keep plenty of oil in it
 

Despite the weather I still nearly finished this project at the weekend

Despite the weather I still nearly finished this project at the weekend

Despite the weather I still nearly finished this project at the weekend

Despite the weather I still nearly finished this project at the weekend

Hmm !!!
Approval  or not ,  increasing the gap by any means is counterproductive as far as compression release for easier starting is concerned. The bigger the gap, the less effective, whatever the release method. That said, a really knackered ( technical term) engine may benefit from all the compression that can be found. AKA an elegant, albeit unorthodox, engineering solution!

You will also find that older Briggs & also Tecumseh engines around 5hp open the exhaust valve slightly on compression. As the engines wear this can cause starting issues due to low compression. On OHV engines I have countered this by increasing the gap on the exhaust valve & on side valve engines I have removed the exhaust valve & ground a bit off the valve stem (not too much).  I am sure Wristpin will not necessarily approve of this practice but it has worked for me on several occasions.

The last time the country was this divided was the English Civil War. It's all very painful & I will be glad when it's over & the news headlines start with something other than Brexit

The last time the country was this divided was the English Civil War. It's all very painful & I will be glad when it's over & the news headlines start with something other than Brexit

Hi all on Saturday my old Kinkade Tractor model L came out of Hibernation for the shows in 2019,  Now has the tool frame fitted an some tools,  a clean of the points and some new fuel was all that was needed to return it to running order hope you like it .   

I've watched most of her series including the one on the history of Britain and clocks, very, very funny. Comedy and humour is down the loo in America and Britain, because comics want to talk about Trump and Brexit, no one thinks these things are funny, at least not in the way the actors are doing it.

The last episode of that series does if my memory is any good.
It's a comedy history of Britain, there was another for Shakespeare.
 
https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b09yp1gr/episodes/guide
 
Philomena Cunk's (not her real name) 'moments of wonder' was originally a mock-u-mentary segment of the Charlie Brooker TV series 'Screenwipe' & later 'Newswipe' which also featured Barry Shitpeas (another made up name) and US comedian Doug Stanhope, I wish they would make some more.
 
David

& Didn't mention Brexit once.

This lives at work, it hasn't moved in the 9 1/2 years that I've been there. I'm not sure if the deck is still around or went in a scrap clearout.



 

Had a week off work, so between changing the servo on my van, changing the oil and filters, pruning the plum tree at the allotment and picking up my MK12 engine I did a bit more... 
 
Stripped the paint off the tank and cowling, is the light green an undercoat or the original colour? (cowling is dark green inside)
 

 
 

 

 
Tank will need a clean inside, a few nuts, some brake cleaner and a good shake should do it.

 
Sump cleaned out (oil was clean, but there was a bit of sludge in it)
 

 
Can't upload anymore photos in the this post so I will continue tomorrow...
 

Engine has obviously had some attention in the past, bore still looks good with no wear ridge.
 

 
Someone cared enough to do this brazed repair to the pulley, maybe to to get a bit more life out of it when it was a working engine?
 

 
...on the other hand, whoever made the new seals for the fuel cap and air filter only had cork effect vinyl floor covering to hand, and their teeth for tools.
 

 
Valves look OK.
 

 

 

 

 
Is this the date code? (IE March 1958)
 

Replacement engines were grey for some types of equipment and blue for others. There were manufactures of equipment like Panzer and others that used blue as the colour of their machines and in those cases the engine was painted the same colour blue as the equipment by the manufacturer. Wheel Horse used red as the colour of their engines until the very late 1970's, the twins were the first to go black, but soon after the single cylinders also were either paint black by wheel horse or came that way. Ford blue and Pontiac blue are both lighter than the blue Kohler used on mostly service engines. Most kohler generator sets, welders and other service equipment came with Kohler blue engines, when replacement engines were ordered they were sent in grey colour for engines that were painted by the OEM manufacturer and Blue for engines originally supplied as blue. BTW, replacement engines were designated as such on the serial number and generally did not carry the same spec number as the original engine, but rather one that was compatible from current stock. This is how you determine if your engine is original. Hope this helps.

thanks wrist pin for your help i done everything you said, it stripped down great there is 1 clutch plate is stuck to the pressure plate and the other clutch is free are the 2 clutch plates supposed to be free   ,on the bottom of the gearbox there is a 4 bolt flange plate i undone the the bolts and took the plate off no oil in the box at all i turned the flange plate over there was a bearing there that was seized up it is all free now and running great thanks for your help john 

Lucky enough to pick up this rare 1950's manual to go with my equally rare Versatiller Mk 1

As pointed out by Fix'em all the Osprey does have a fibre clutch plate that may contain asbestos and this can absorb moisture and rust to either of the pressure plates  - one of which is part of the left hand wheel hub and the other keyed to the axle. Jack the machine up , remove the split pin from the nut in the left hand wheel centre and undo the nut . At this point the wheel and hub should pull off the axle . 
If it wont come off, try hitting the inflated tyre with a mallet. If that doesn't work, get back to us. 
This may be useful.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/e2rmk54zl2msh1k/Hayter Osprey and 21 0001.pdf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5sjvlcenhz6ghfe/Hayter 21 %26 Osprey Gearboxes0001.pdf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0puak77v28dnjpl/Hayter 21 %26 Osprey clutch adj20001.pdf?dl=0

I bought this today to use in plowing, discing, and harvesting. 1965 David Brown 990 Selectamatic 55 hp diesel. Rear remotes and everything works as it should except it needs headlights 3250 US.