4x4forks

While the heads off, be an idea to check it for flatness.

Hayter ride on started smoking and burning oil so did a bit of resurrect as it starts and runs great. 
After a watch of good old You tube, a simple examination of the spark plug diagnosed a blown head gasket which apparently these engine are prone for.
Stripped it out this morning and  there it was ,blown from the cylinder to the oil return to sump gallery.
Kits  to be order Monday morning

Made up another exhaust stack for the C-125 this morning. The one on was an old BSA motorcycle silencer. The outlet pipe was rather holey, with a cut up tin can wrapped round and held by jubilee clips. So cut off the bad bit off the BSA one and the tail end off a tractor one.
 
The result.

 

 
   
 
 
 

Decided to give the fleet a service yesterday. Engine oil on all except the C-125. That was done after the rebuild. So C-81, The Black Horse and Sears/Roper all got new blood. The trans were drained by jacking up the front and a 3" block under the RH rear wheel. I only did the C-81 and C-125. The oil in the other two was done last year and still clean.
 
  I did find both RH rear tyres on the C-81 and C-125 had no air in. C-81 possibly not sealing and the C-125 has a split valve. They'll be sorted next week.
 
 Today was grease day. Every grease nipple I could find got done. Much to my surprise the Sears/Roper had no grease nipples in the axle spindles. Holes yes. Nipples no. Also no way to grease the axle pivot. OK! I'll do something about that.
 
 Jack up the front and lower on to axle stands. Keep the H&S bods happy. Removed the track rods from the spindles and spindles complete with wheels. Why make work. Then the axle itself after removing the front hitch. With that on you couldn't remove the pivot bolt.
 

 
   Drilled out the holes for the nipples and re-threaded to take the larger nipples I had. The nipples protruded into the spindle tube, so thin washers were used to pack them out.
 

 
  Next the pivot bolt. This was over long so lost a1/4" then into the lathe to have a grease hole drilled up the centre.
 

 
Then a hole drilled through the bolt shank halfway along. Finally the end threaded to take a grease nipple.
 

 
All back together and greased.

Some pics of horses ploughing my Gutbrod 1032 ploughing and Irikah my new dog enjoying the fun

Very happy with my results two firsts for my ploughing and my finish

My rear discharge mowing deck is getting rather worse for wear. I've already replaced the top, but now the tin worm is getting the better of the sides. So today I went to see another I knew of. It was a bit grimy and the paint underneath was flaking due to being in a shed with an earthen floor. Shell is good and solid and everything turns freely. Looks like it has seen very little use as the blades are still sharp and keen.
  A good clean and some paint and it should be in service by the end of the month.
 

 

 
 After loading it into the Disco, the seller mentioned a plough at the back of the shed. He thought it was a Brinly and it proved to be so. In good condition and the share coated with a good layer of grease. Again looked little used. Needless to say, that ended up keeping the deck company on the journey to their new home.
 

 
  I declined the offer of the C-125 in need of some TLC, the deck came off. Discretion being the better part of valour. I've promised to put that in the for sale section.

Hi All here is some pictures of my 1032 with Busatis finger mower and rear Rotavator which came with The Callender ploo-mans new 1030 He bought the tractor  I bought the tools for my own 1032 Tractor hope you like 

Here is more photos

Only if you had a seat belt on.

H&S would love you standing on that topper.

A little ride around in the sunshine . I didn;t get to drive I couldn,t get my son off the seat ..lol   3 acres of finish topping  with a  5 foot topper also rebulit. 

Cracking looking machine . Should keep you out of trouble for a while 

Afternoon all, After a few busy months I finally had the chance to make a start on the massey! The aim is to get it running for a show late in July.
 
Heres some before photos in case you forgot
 

 

 

 

 
First job was to get the front up on some axle stands, remove the hood and front wheels. The steering needs some work as everything is very worn.
 

 

 

 
it needs some serious degreasing as well so the engine was next to come out, it also helps to have the engine on a bench as it will need a partial strip down.
 

 

 

 
here you can see just how worn the axle is, it is a very lightweight casting and unfortunately it is a bit twisted.
 

 
Next I made a new bush for the axle, should work just fine.
 

 
after a bit of cleaning up. the original paint is in excellent condition, just a shame someone painted over it.
 

 

 
These are going to require some attention at some point.
 

 
On closer inspection, one of the engine mount holes has cracked, just visible above, now welded up.
 

 
The idler pulley and steering column was removed and then everything given a good clean. 
 

 
For a 56 year old machine, i'm surprised nothing is rusted solid, didn't even have to use any heat. 
 
 
Next job when i'm home next is to replace the bearing in the idler pulley and sort out the worn steering components.

We were caught out by the snow last year and had to rush around getting the snow blade out of storage. Joseph wanted us to be prepared this year just in case we get snow. He had made a video of the preparation
 
 
 

Hi all as you all may no with our sister forum Red square I've just done a full nut and bolt restoration on my D200 which didn't have a 3 point linkage so after some designs from Meadowfield and Videos from Stigian I've design with more help off my friend Dibnah to build a work in progress hitch ?!
Nearly at the finish stage with the revised drop arms etc and the plough mount

Despite the weather I still nearly finished this project at the weekend

It was quite common for vehicles, both cars and tractors , and for that matter large bore domestic central heating , to operate on the siphonic principle. If your engine has a pressurised system ( spring loaded radiator or filling cap) the pressure raises the boiling point to allow the engine to operate more efficiently at a higher temperature than if it had a system open to atmospher.  
So unless your unpumped system was showing signs of boiling, it is quite possible that it was operating correctly . The presence of the pump’s impeller may well be having an adverse effect.

If anyone knows the early kubotas they have what is called a Syphon  Cooling system. This means as the engine heats up , Hot water rises to the top and the cooler water after the radiator sinks causing a circulation of water.
I have fitted a coolant gauge and can see the temp in the top hose.
This works but i think it can be improved upon.
I have sourced a 12v electric  water pump and plumbed it in replacement of the bottom hose. 
Currently I have run the engine and watched the temperature rise without the pump running. Turn the pump on and the temperature instantly falls .
I have got a variable switch  to adjust the pump speed if it over cools the engine . I will have to wait until i can run it hard under load to give a full test and report.

Just had a look at this 14hp k321 and looks like the rod had snapped and damaged the crank. The bearing plate it spinning but im not sure if its from damage or being removed. Everything else inside looks ok to my very untrained eye.

The Farmers boy serial number 1178 , plough

The Farmers boy serial number 1178 , plough

Came across this machine languishing in a shed and was wondering what people thought? Is it desirable and is it worst anything .
Not my usual type of machine but it has been dry stored and will be a runner.

The Farmers boy serial number 1178 , plough

Looks similar to the Farmers Boy that Darren ( Darmic1 ) restored recently.  He might be the one to ask.