Wallfish

Still work for me too. As long as they haven't shut me down it's has to be a go. Hopefully we can finish this week at minimum but get the feeling it's getting close as many other states are locking down. I just peck away at it on weekends and nights but running out of the small stuff to do like chainsaws. Got started on the paint for a winch. Soon the bigger stuff like hedge trimmers and outboards will be the only thing left to do. Really been enjoying to get back at them again after a long hiatus of not touching them. It's here on the forum that motivates me by seeing what others are doing. Not so much just to keep up with the Jones" but more to share the experiences of restoring and repairing them. It's more fun to get involved. Plus bust'n on Terry is fun too! Did ya see that funny crap he did with the wires for a glow plug? I was LMAO.

A regular muffler is fine too. That's what was on there and it was clean so just reused it. If it was crappy then maybe change it. Don't sweat the little details on a chainsaw. Save that 100% original stuff for the good ones!

IMO the tilted decal looks funny if there's a bird decal because that is always oriented with the recoil. Without the bird decal, the recoil decal looks better tilted to vertical. Not 100 % sure if mine was original or not but those recoil covers have a factory hole for the switch so I believe it's original because the hole didn't appear to be just drilled out, the paint was original and the decal was oriented with the bird decal. Either way is fine so doing it to your preference is the best way to do it. Maybe the un-branded saw above is the Bunyan which tilted the decal and the Chip A Saw had it oriented with the recoil as I see Terry has his the same

Captain What's this? You collect'n again?

If I had a bike to put it on, you're darn toot'n I'd take it for a ride. My grandson is 14 now and riding a bike is just like work to him so he'll avoid it like the plague. His older sister drives now so all the bicycles are gone. BUT maybe I could get the kid's across the street. If he'll ride it with the motor I'd leave it on there for him. They could have all kinds of engine stuff to ride around because of all the small engine stuff I do but kids today would rather play video games.

It's already boxed up and on the shelf. If I can ever find one of those mini bikes or a skateboard it will be me in the video riding! Been think'n about building a mini bike replica of the Micro using EMT conduit. Forgot to add the twist throttle in the pic.

You always need to test the engine BEFORE converting to a glow plug. 1)Connect the red wire to the engine's spark plug wire 2)Since this will probably be used for a boat you'll need just a little water so use the toilet water and run a wire from the yellow into the toilet water 3) It will need ammonia to complete the test circuit so pee in the toilet but do it in conjunction with #4 4) to test continuity give the pull cord on the engine a viscous yank 5)If no continuity jump the red to the yellow and try again Please let us know the results of testing so we can figure out the rest.

This old school type Chicken Power has been in wind chime mode for a very long time. It was painted probably 5 or 6 years ago and just hanging around on wires. The engine is a very low hour and the recoil was already done, just needed a decal. It took longer to wipe off all of the dust LoL. Still needs some recoil screws but that's about it. Poor Terry always gets it from me about how long it takes so here ya go Terry, just teed it up for ya. Here's another too, been sanding the parts for that Bee Jay winch and that's the engine in the engine rebuild pics thread from 2015

NICE JOB on the saw! Fishnuts2 discovered the process for 90% of O&R tools. They all have fastners which are difficult to get to and how parts need to be removed to get to others. Make tools to work to get to them. Trust me, that chainsaw is easier compared to some others but also more difficult than some. But once you go through a couple it gets easier. Just wait until you get to that recoil on the Sears for the first one. Please don't smash it with a BFH. LoL Making your own gaskets and seals is a big part of this hobby. @Webhead Joe told me when I first started, "you have to be resourceful if you get into this hobby and collect them". Absolutely true

Placed an order last night for the Homelite choke knobs. It wasn't much more for 4 NOS knobs than it was for one so there's some extra if anyone happens to need one. They'll get added in with the extra NOS parts bin for the Homelite collection. Might go pull one off of the tools to see how it looks.

Another nice find! If you're up for a challenge concerning the rubber check valve on the carb arm? Float valves for some carbs use a small rubber tip to seal the valve and that rubber tip could be used to make one. It's something I never got around to attempting. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Carb-Repair-Overhaul-Rebuild-Kit-For-Kohler-K301-K321-K482-K532-K331/282203275943?hash=item41b4a042a7:g:l~oAAOSwzaJX8Wf9

That's funny, was just thinking last night about using a Homelite choke knob as they're fairly small. Unfortunately there's no spare out there as they're all on engines. I don't keep spares of those engines around like the O&Rs.

That would be great if have something. Haven't been able to find anything for a button yet. The paint always looks better in the pics.

I'm holding those saw parts hostage for free decals Just sent the box today Clint Sent Terry's box yesterday

The 3" size is a little smaller for the chain cover than the original so I'll trade ya for one of the bigger decals if the smallest one fits the recoil.

Never tried They also show a 3 inch set for a different saw than you posted with the 3.5 set. In the 3 inch set there's a smaller one which seems very close to the right size for an O&R recoil so that's the set I ordered before trying to save the original. Once it arrives, I'll check it out and let you know if it will work. You can have it if it does.

I ordered some from sugar creek Might be interested in going in on some chip a saw decals. Do you still need pics and dimensions for that? Probably best to reply about those over in that thread

That would make an interesting video.

Slow progress on this one but it's close. Been stay'n up late and pecking away at it. The paint is a little light of a tint for the yellow but it's staying. And no way was I going to spray paint everything like the originals were done. I was able to save the original recoil decal. Got it peeled off then painstakingly had to very carefully scrape off all of the stuck paint from the back of it. Scraped off the smearing and dinge from the white parts and touched up the color parts. It came out alright but still need to spray a coat of clear over it. Clint helped me out with the wording of the tank decals and those were just printed on my own. The aluminum handle was broken down at the bottom where it bolts on so had to fix that too.

The guy who didn't take the carb apart and keeps his plug-in air freshener in with his parts.

Alright, you did it so I just put your parts in the mailbox today. But you must've lost the reed valve part.

Hey Sherlock, don't call me that! I broke the screw and "fixed IT" . Then figured no one will ever know.

I can email some pics of the chip a saw decal with dimensions later today if that helps. Might have a print of one from usedtoolman which might be better to use for duplication but let me know. Depending on cost, I could use 3 decals for the older saw. It was stripped down but never painted

The diaphragm pumps fuel. The tank can be lower than the carb. This is my best guess. Pulse of the vacuum pressure from the case flexes the diaphragm to pump fuel and the amount of air flow past the jet pulls in the fuel. The needle valve meters the amount of fuel being taken. More air past the jet equals more suction which equals more fuel. More fuel and more air equals higher rpm. The amount of air is metered by the butterfly valve inside the carb body. The butterfly is metered by the governor vein. The governor vein is metered by air flow from the flywheel speed. There are also reed valves inside the engine which control the vacuum and positive pressure of the piston moving inside the case. It's all in the precise timing of the components. At full blast it all happens at 6300 times a minute or 105 times a second. The choke helps with starting to pull fuel with the vacuum from the case because you can't pull it fast enough for the air flow past the jet to do it. Same for the primer button, it's a bump for the fuel for starting only. But once that spark happens in the chamber with fuel in there, pow, things move quickly. Hope this helps.

We can get @JUST O&R Terry the metal man to bang out a dozen or so scaled down replica bike tanks. He might actually be working on an O&R today since we haven't seen a post.