Wallfish

Plus without a belt guard, the belt can be changed quickly

Nice, who did you get to do the decals?

It definitely doesn't look like an A

Hey David @factory that reminds me, you never posted anything about that old cool hedge trimmer I sent to you. Have you done anything with that yet?

It threads into each separate hole. There's a small slot in the front edge of the gearbox and there's a hole in the spindles which hold the chuck. A small rod (1/8" ?) slides into the hole and the slot holds it firm so the chuck can be unscrewed with a wrench.

A bad condenser could cause that issue. Not too many go bad on these for some reason but it's certainly possible. If it's sparking the points are making a connection although it's always good practice to clean the contacts anyway. Also clean the copper spring where it contacts that little post. Clint, @CNew will send you a diaphragm or piece for $10.

Thanks for adding some pics. Unfortunately that's about the condition many of these tools are found in but they clean up nice if you spend the time. Looks like you're well on your way.

Agree, if it's cracked it should be changed while you have it opened up.

Yeah, Allstate gasket for the correct material but you'll have to buy a big piece. One already cut diaphragm is $10 with a new paper gasket or I can send you a small piece of material for $10 with a gasket if I can find a piece. You could also find a carb diaphragm for something else on ebay and cut it down to to size.

Think we hooked another one. Let the searching begin Half the fun is hunting is this down

Paint on the gearbox cover/handle came out pretty nice but the gas is a complete mess like Terry's was. It will need to be painted but since I hate painting, it will probably stay like that for a while. That's funny David, that does look the bar.

Nice find, Those Mighty Moe sprayers are neat little items.

In fact, I like the plastic cages because there super easy to clean and re-install. Just throw a dab of grease in the hole or on the rod and put'm in there. Unless you're referring to the same design but metal instead of plastic. The wire cage type are a PITA and messy. Just did and engine with them.

So between the two engines there were some good parts and bad. Had to dismantle both. The original engine sounded like it had sand it the cylinder , then in the crank case so couldn't use any of those internal parts. Then it turned out the crank on the other engine was worn. Had a groove from the points rod all the way around it. Found a good replacement crank and changed the whole thing. So I was able to get this far. Got a good engine together. And BTW, I hate those metal cages for the bearings. What a PITA they are to get back in. It's messy with all the grease to hold them too. It's been a long time since doing them but plastic cages would've saved an hour or two.

Nope. I must be the only one that doesn't have an issue with the plastic cages. Keep oil in the fuel and don't let it scream over 6300 rpm and it should be fine. None of my stuff are workers anyway so no big deal on the plastic cages.

Interesting! @Webhead Joe may be able to give some info on those carbs. I've never had one. Didn't have any knowledge about that tool either until now. Typically you won't need a choke if there's a primer button or bulb but going by the the decal, one would think the "trigger" is a throttle but... Guess the trigger was the kill switch LoL Yeah, they scream at 6300 rpm and without any load it will stumble a little. Too bad you don't have the rest of it.

Here's the next one. Unfortunately the paint on the tank is all flaked off. Not sure yet if it will get striped off and painted. Too cold to paint anything for a while. Seems Gomer had a hard time with the flywheel and recoil on this one. Some kind of "fix" on the flywheel and once off, discovered the broken threads on the crank. Of coarse there was no mention of the hacks by seller. This is exactly how one ends up with a pile of spare used parts. But, I have another engine from a past purchase so between the 2 engines it should be OK.

Just picked a harder one to do next. You might recognize what it is.

So the gear box was little bit of a pain. Getting the gaskets right took some time and ended up cutting quite a few until it was right. (looks like someone threw confetti in my office now) A gear was rubbing on the metal separation piece then something was binding just a bit when all of the screws were tight. Nice and smooth now. This engine was done and gone through already because the gaskets looked new, inside was clean as a whistle and still some engine assembly grease noticeable around the bearings. Compression is so good there was a question whether or not to even open the engine but it was worth checking anyway. I must've quit at the gearbox because of the need for making gaskets as the gearbox definitely wasn't gone through before.

Click through the manuals David has posted. There's drawings of the different engines

No need to worry about the key ways on a short tappered shaft crank end unless it has the old style clutch with the cork friction linings. Those clutches used the key ways. Not sure if anything else ever did or not but I haven't seen one yet

is right but to a collector which is missing that different piece.... Something like that is easier for some of us with spare engines and parts to make it whole and nice again.

Thanks for posting that manual. Did find that yesterday because I was looking for a washer/bearing for the main gear #214. It keeps rubbing on the metal plate #213. It binds the gears when closed tight but that seems to be because the new gasket I made it just a little too thin. Found some better material to make a new one today.

They're cupped seals but they're pliable and soft like new ones so it should be good to go.

Started with the gearbox. It's not bad at all since the original grease in there is still very soft. The 2 gaskets are very dry and brittle and broke coming out. I'll have to make some replacements. Luckily the 3 shaft seals for the chuck are soft and pliable, think they're still good so I'll just use them since finding a replacement would be difficult.