Wallfish

David and Paul already sucked up all the good stuff! As far as gems go, it all evens out in the wash. You guys have some stuff I don't.

Picked another easy quick one to do and sticking with the imports for now. Had 2 of these sent over a while ago and also sold the other one to Jim @usedtoolman with the Turbair TOT. It basically needs a good cleaning but while it's disassembled, might as well go through the engine thoroughly and give it a good freshening up with new seals and gaskets. The gearbox gasket is leaking so a replacement for that will be made. The recoil was already done a long time ago when it was received. Never knew they're supposed to have handle grips until other pics were posted with them. An interesting drill because the chuck is repositioned into one of 3 different locations on the gearbox to change the rotation speed. Wait until you see the chrome cleaned up using Aluminum foil. It works wonders on these chrome handles and parts and it's quick and simple. These are in good condition to begin with but even some tough ones have been saved too.

No it didn't. Yours has enough cake there to dissolve it in water and make a full bottle of vintage chemical solution.

Nice going Brian! Glad it all worked out, let us know what you got if you find it.

Might as well spill the beans on the price if you know it

That "nub" looks like a sheared key to me but there was another guy before stating his flywheel didn't have a key way. The key only lines it up for the timing and the taper is actually what holds it in place. Is the crank slot normal? Now I see what takes you guys so long. All of those neat little compartments for parts takes time. Wish my organizational skills were that good

I have a good coil but the wires are messed up. A little wire, a little solder, a little shrink tube or just shrink tube them. Let me know if you want it

It was already in decent condition, new engine available and not really too many parts on those Kinda neglecting my duties up here in the office work'n on engines for hours instead doing actual work

They go quick when there's a nice new engine available for it. Just need to finish the recoil but I'll do 3 or 4 at a time because once you get go'n on them it just seems to go smoother. The chrome on this cleaned up nice. (probably get cancer from the crap that was inside from the chemicals run through it.) Here's a close up pic of those carb adapters

Someone was in that engine before and put the wrong crank half in there. Swapped out engines but swapped a new crank into the first engine and everything is good to go

Thanks David, Already swapped everything over to the 176 and almost done with it. The only difference I noticed was the crank end

That came out nice. Is there a clutch in there or is that fan blade direct drive?

It's not the end of the world if that check valve has to be drilled but certainly better if not. Plus it's a pain as the rubber material wants to close back up and restrict the drilled hole. These little O&Rs can be challenging to work on and to get running properly but someone with your experience shouldn't have a problem. As worker tools, I think they suck and a bunch were probably smashed with a BFH by frustrated people. They make better display pieces. That 318 is a great machine and a top shelf homeowner tractor

I'm also a Wheel Horse collector and user. See you went to the dark side with JD. LoL Had about 20-25 at one point but slowed down some. Down to 2 RJ-58s, a 400 and 401, 654, 655 416-8 with Ark loader and home built backhoe, and a 520-HC with cab and 2 stage blower. Plus numerous custom built like the one in my avatar pic.. Glad you found us. Drillgine drills can be a pain because everything needs to come apart just to get to something else. Not difficult but time consuming compared to most. You'll probably need a Diaphragm once tou get that check valve figured out

Eventually you will run into them. They should have changed the whole carb design but instead they just kept throwing on band aids like that check valve. The carb is the worst thing on these engines but maybe they were ahead of their time. Make stuff so it fails after a while so you need to get it fixed or buy a new one.

No. DON"T use carb cleaner in it. It's a check valve with a rubber type of flapper inside and carb cleaner will swell it closed and locked. Hopefully I'm not too late. BTW Typcally you can push it open with the flat end of a paper clip or better yet the butt end of a drill bit that just fits inside but you gotta go easy and feel for it. Then try and blow through it to see if it's loose. Once loose you can use something that won't swell the rubber. I've been using citris degreaser for cleaning my engines recently and it disolves that old 2 stroke oil pretty good. Never tried for that but if you can keep pushing that stuff through eventuality it should clean it. then check the valve by blowing the other way and you should'nt be able to. then go back and blow and hopefully you're all set. When all else fails, drill a hole through it using that drill bit you tried with earlier. That's what I had to do after carb cleaner

You guys need to kiss David's @@@ because you may need someone to send it to you. And @pmackellow Paul's too. I had 2 sent over and sold one to Jim, @usedtoolman. Which reminds me, I need to get a hold of him and get him to participate on here again. Very smart and knowledgeable guy. Maybe the only 2 in the USA? The carb itself is not special at all. It's the parts they made to fit and do that is what's special. Fairly simple too. They moved it so the fan parts fit closer to the engine as the diaphragm section would've hit.

I got the fan blade off fairly easy by doing it like a flywheel. Loosen the bolt, hold the blade and hit the bolt with a rubber mallet. Did have a hard time getting that piece which holds the frame off of the engine. @factory David, what's the difference between a model 176 and 186? Thr Turbair is a 186 but I have a NOS real nice engine 176 which is a glow plug conversion. Just remove the glow plug and I can swap all the other engine pieces. The only real difference I think is the crank end. The 176 is tapered with the keyed grooves and the 176 is just tapered. The connection does not require the keyed grooves. Probably just swap it anyway.

Almost forgot about this unique and very interesting feature of these things. Notice where the diaphragm section of the carb is. It's not connected to the carb body and feeds fuel remotely through a fuel line

Trying to keep up with JUST O&R is a real pain! This just so happened to be the closest box on the shelf but have been intending to get to this one. I have the correct recoil cover with the label and the chrome could use some cleaning. I'll dis-assemble the entire engine and unit to clean and freshen everything up. These are cool little insecticide spraying fans from across the pond.

I was think'n about a belt guard but cleaning up the pulleys with fresh paint and leaving it open looks more old school and dangerous. Besides I'm not sure Terry's up for making a me more stuff just yet. Wore him out on the engine mount for this one.

Just some final pics before it goes back out to the shed. This one is pretty much all done too except for the little rubber feet. Just need to pick up the hardware and attach them.

See if you can grab David. Then sell it to @JUST O&R (For a big healthy profit of coarse)

Got it all together with Terry's mount, which will get painted silver hammer tone once it warms up a bit. The belt on there fits but a shorter wider belt will look better.

Not a common piece over here.