Wallfish

If it's shutting down quickly after priming then it's not getting fuel or enough fuel. Leaking crank case seals can cause this because there isn't enough vacuum and positive pressure to make the diaphragm push enough fuel. The stiffer the diaphragm is the more pressure it takes to pulse it. This condition can also cause a poor lean running condition. There is a procedure for doing a leak down test near the end of the engine rebuild thread posted by webhead. Leaking carb gaskets could also be an issue. Spray a little carb cleaner on them while it is running, if they are sealed you should hear no change in the rpm. If rpm does change, they're leaking. If you are twisting that carb adjusting needle open quite a few turns and it isn't changing or flooding the engine, it's not getting enough fuel so it could be clogged somewhere or the previous stated conditions.

A C-51 with good paint for it's age and I have a second XL-100 circular saw I'd consider letting go.

Me either.

Hi Karl. What's this about?

Kohler engine carbs use a rubber tipped float needle seal which looks like it could work as a replacement. Unfortunately I just haven't had the time to try and get one to work.

I have a flywheel. You're close by so you can pick it up. Are you in Shrewsbury? Just don't have time right now for shipping stuff, just ask Factory! LoL

Think you can run those with an air cooled engine too. I have an air cooled gas engine with the White Heat exhaust stack. Came with the Octura engine mount too so it seems to be all original. I'm just missing the boat! Do you have a boat or the plans to build one? Here's a thread for the White Heat

Some more pics would help. Hopefully it wasn't run with the old crusty air filter material still inside the air cleaner. That crap gets sucked into the engine easily. The tank doesn't appear original but that is also a later model unit which was made in the 70's. It appears to be in good condition. You'll see all kinds of prices out there for O&R stuff and they do trend up and down. The older and stranger the piece, the more they are valued by collectors. Personally I'd value it between $150 on the low end and $250 on the higher end but you never know when listing it on ebay. With auction style bidding if someone wants it more than the other guy it can easily go up. If no one is buying it could go down. I might be a bit bias too since I already have ice augers so it's always possible a collector which doesn't have one yet, could be willing to pay more. Shoot me a PM on here if you want to skip listing it for sale and I'll make you an offer.

The internal parts of the engine get lubrication from the oil that is mixed into the gas. That engine assembly grease helps hold the pieces together during assembly and pre lubricates them for initial starting. You can use a drop of 2 stroke oil to lube parts if it isn't completely taken apart and cleaned.

The "bracket" you removed is the induction section. There's really no need to remove it to get the carb off. They came from the factory with those paper gaskets over the diaphragm. I have replaced many diaphragms without using that paper gasket but now I had a bunch cut when the guy did the diaphragms. Have you looked at this thread for rebuilding an engine? it shows most of the parts and has an engine diagram near the end.

The one pictured above is just made as a snow blower but Polaris Power Pole did make a version in which the engine could be attached to different attachments. An Ice Auger and an Outboard are the two I know of.

Not stupid AT ALL. It squeezes through the hole since the halves do not separate. I roll it up and push it in with a small piece of stiff bent wire. The wire is bent so it doesn't just poke through the foam. Once inside the filter use the other straight end to move it into position. Certainly easier said than done but it's not too difficult to get it in there. The first one is always the toughest.

Found one, here you go David

Nice detective work!

You can probably repair it with fiberglass resin and cloth. Over here it is sold at Automotive parts stores.

David, I may have a spare cover. You have to be careful with the tank cap. If the the fuel and air inside are warm, then the vent is closed and the temp gets cold enough, it will collapse the the tank enough to split it. Guess how I know about that?

Glad you found us. You're further along than most because they usually need a new carb diaphragm to get them running. Where is the fuel coming from that's flies everywhere? Smoke yes, fuel no. You may be able to cut down on some of the smoke if you are mixing it 24:1 like the label states to do. That was for mixing 30W oil back in the old days but modern 2 stroke oil is a much better lubricant nowadays. Use a good quality AIR cooled engine 2 stroke oil and mix 32:1.

Be sure to tell this person to join us here on the forum. We would be interested in ANY history they could provide.

Nice score. Please post up some better pics when you get the chance! And of coarse we are looking forward to seeing you get that baby running!

That sucks to see all those problems with an old K90. Not too many of those around over here let alone over there. The head with the curved cooling fins is from a K90 and straight fins are a K91. The exhaust port for that replacement engine can easily be threaded with 1/2" - 14 NPT tap to fit 1/2" NPT pipe. Original Wheel Horse spec engines used 3/4" pipe but the 1/2 works perfectly fine. Hard to tell from the pics which size pipe you have but it looks like 1/2", I'd imagine NPT pipe is an American thing so not sure what access you guys have to it. https://drillsandcutters.com/1-2-14-npt-carbon-steel-pipe-tap/?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&gclid=COPwl5GG4NICFQS2wAodSfcKxw Let me know if I can help with shipping pipe parts if needed.

The spring was sent to webhead but please let me know if it is not needed as it was removed from a good carb part.

PM that again Joe, I know I have it somewhere but it's been a while You should have it before you get back and have fun on vacation!

Just the arm spring? I can send one. Don't have time to clean and test a whole assembly but I can drop a spring in the mail. Or a used assembly for @Vw tim to clean and assemble himself. What about a gasket, needle valve, long screw and the plastic check valve?

Yup, early engines used a 10mm plug