Wallfish

Probably are Phelon. The metal laminate part is unique to these engines but it's always possible a chainsaw engine out there could have one that would interchange with minor modification like drilling new holes. The only bad coils seem to be the damaged ones. Think I've had one suspect coil out of 50+ engines so they are probably the most durable part on them. Once you end up with a couple of toasted engines, you'll have some spares. My advice is to buy the crappy Mustang chainsaws for cheap money to gain spare engine parts like coils, carbs, recoils, ect. ect.

See you already have the essential dental pics and Q-tips out. Another good thing to get is a set of hole punches for making new gaskets. I like the little plier type rather than the type you hit with a hammer. They make quick accurate work for making new paper gaskets. Just search around the web for a set with all different sizes. Example https://www.amazon.com/Darice-1201-14-Circle-Punches-3-Piece/dp/B000WWK8US/ref=sr_1_5/146-3815977-4936629?ie=UTF8&qid=1549421562&sr=8-5&keywords=hole+punch+set

As with most of these old tools, you should just go through the whole thing anyway. disassemble, clean and re-grease everything. My gearbox on the little wonder does NOT have that hole so it appears someone has been in there before. That means you should definitely get into it and have a look. Just do it over a clean surface or lay out a towel or something. Those little roller bearings enjoy taking off and it's a pain in the @$$ to find them after they do. It's probably something you're aware of by now but just in case since there aren't replacements available.

I have one of those tanks and just use it to display a glow plug conversion model airplane engine with a big propeller on it.

NICE!!!!! I love everything about it. Been "out of the loop" for a bit since work takes up too much time but it's fantastic to come back and see this stuff. Can't wait to see the finished product. Ian, you're getting pretty good at that video stuff and that camera motion thingy was a really cool effect.

Now we're talk'n. That's a great idea! Not sure about that hole, I'd have to take a look at mine. But it appears it's a bolt from the other side and not sure why it wouldn't just be a blind hole.

2 part epoxy, Not sure if that will hold up to gas over time but I'm assuming you're not looking to trim your bushes with this, just collecting

Spray carb cleaner into the nipple, let it soak. Repeat as many times as needed. You will find that you need to be VERY resourceful when it comes to these tools. Look EVERYWHERE for something that works if you can't find a replacement part. A lot of trial and error will be needed too but that's half the fun. Not sure if any of these will work for the correct size but just to give you an idea. https://www.amazon.com/TAI-DIAN-Transparent-Glass-Containers/dp/B078H9DHPM/ref=asc_df_B078H9DHPM/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863980630237&psc=1

And yes, the handle is mounted with rubber mounts, vibration dampers. At least you got the little vent bottle. Most are missing because the nipples broke off.

There should be 3 tank nipples. 2 are vents (one on each side ) because the cap seals the filler neck and the fuel pick up should be on the carb side.

1961 model 401 You can find more info and possible parts over on RedSquare https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/

Try using a piece of wire. Slip it through the tank nipple and pull it out of the filler neck. Send the end you just pulled out through a piece of fuel line and put a hook on the end of the wire so it can't pull back through the fuel line. Pull the wire back out of the tank nipple forcing the fuel line on to the nipple inside of the tank. MUCH easier said than done but got this tip from webhead a while back and have had some success doing it. Have had some failures too but it's worth a try. Those gearboxes for the augers are filled with oil. I use the lubriplate grease for the small gearboxes.

WOW! That thing came out really nice. If the original color is the same as the XL-12 blue, there's a paint Honda Highland Blue which is just about a perfect color match

That thing doesn't look too bad to me either. It's definitely a good find! The auger part isn't a huge let down concerning the over all tool but it sure is better to have the original part. The gear box shaft is 3/4" so you can drill out the auger to 7/8" and insert a 3/4" ID x 7/8" OD bronze bushing then drill the bushing to accept the pin. My originals aren't the tightest fit either but if there is too much slope at that connection it's an issue. For the coil laminate piece, that will separate by removing the single screw which locks it together. Remove the coil and you can easily clean it up with a wire wheel. If the tank is rusty inside, you can fill it with Cider vinegar and let it sit over night, pour out the vinegar and check to see if it needs longer. When it's good wash it out with a little baking soda mixed with water to neutralize the vinegar acid, blow it dry. The cider vinegar will also work well for any of the other rusted parts. You'll need to post some pictures of what was done with the carb and air cleaner to see if it's salvageable or if it's just better to replace the whole thing.

Unfortunately I've been out of the O&R game for a while but not very many of those saws come up for sale. Although I have seen them for sale every once in a while. If it's complete and in good condition and you really want it, $400 isn't too crazy but patience could find one cheaper. $0.02

It's been far too long since I've checked in to the forum. Think I have a couple of those reed valves in the parts stash.

Nice work on the tank repair and thanks for sharing your experience. One concern might be if it's better to extend the tube with fuel line when using that type of a fuel pick up so it lays down horizontal at the bottom. Not sure, but it seems like it may start sucking air before using the bottom 1/3 of fuel. Hope that's not the case here as those tanks don't hold much fuel as it is. Curious about the "rubber" original pick up. I've never had one of these specific tanks open either but all the others that have been opened used a small metal cone with a screen. Can you post a pic of the old rubber pick up?

The best sealant type product for sealing gas tanks as it actually holds up to gasoline Never had one of those particular tanks apart either but I'm with David, use heat. Torch, heat gun whatever and maybe use a wooden dowel through the fill neck to push it out.

That's a real nice find, not too many of those are seen. You will definitely need a new diaphragm. These small engines don't enough vacuum and pressure to pulse a stiff diaphragm. here's a link to another one. The shaft is threaded for attaching a drill chuck. Thought I posted a video of it running to but...

Making sure they go back on the same way they came off is important too. The hole for the carb is different than the hole on the intake, plus the flat sides need to be matched together. Before I had a parts stash with replacement gaskets, a successful technique used to "resurface" them was to squish the gaskets one at a time in a vice between two pieces of FLAT & SMOOTH 1/4 inch thick steel plates.This worked twice. It was only needed because the previous owner installed the gaskets backwards and distorted both sides of them so there was not a flat surface on either side them.

Maybe Joe uses his sweater vest to secure his tie while doing yard work. Thanks for posting and sharing those pics. Interesting stuff

Ha, how about posting your selfie while you're out weeding around the petunias?

There should be one around here and your close by. That happens more often when the tank is full because fuel can more easily enter the top of the tube inside the tank. Another thing to check on for the lack of fuel is a clogged fuel pick up. Connect a piece of clean fuel line to the tank and try blowing through it. Air should flow fairly easy. If clogged you can try spraying carb cleaner through the tube and let it soak, spray a little more, let it soak and so on.

None of the ads or pictures ever show anyone wearing protection

It's been a while but still checking in every chance I get. Just haven't had any time for hobby stuff. David seems to have a handle on answering most of the questions so by the time I check in they're already answered. Your in my area of the world. Whereabouts in MA are you? I might have some caps for you but will need to look around for them.