Anglo Traction

Yes, most likely get away with a Standard Service Ring Set if Ray is lucky.. No decimal point in wrong place Angus. If Ray's Bore is worn past the Std tolerance Limits, there is a small chance Paul at Meetens may just have a Piston/Ring set of +3 thou in stock (if anyone has them he will). This will allow just a de glaze/Hone and avoids a Rebore/Hone and requiring as you say +10,20 or 30 thou oversize- . I used Chromed edge Rings on my 12hp as it was rebored +20thou and honed to the correct angle of score marks for that type of ring to perform properly- Regards

Sorry Allen, I just realised you're going to get a shorter Belt. The Only things I can think of that requires you to get a shorter Belt are- wrong diameter of the 3 Pulleys fitted......Clutch mechanism not taking up the Tension and the position of the Engine on the Frame. I believe you've had the Tractor for several years, so you probably know it better than me.

No problem. If you are getting a genuine toro part 7473, then all will be fine. If you get an Aftermarket alternative check that the section of the Belt is as near to these dimensions as possible- The reason is that the Disengagement Tabs on the Belt Cover must be properly adjusted and the Belt must be just proud of the Engine Pulley for it to work properly.

Depends on the condition of your engine Bore. If it is only lightly worn and been honed/de-glazed, then look to use Cast Iron .....they will bed in quicker. They should also be available in STD +0-003" oversize to fit in slightly worn Bore. They will also bed in better if the bore is slightly 'out-of-round'. Chrome rings , like Norm says will last longer, but the bore must be good i.e. straight, parallel and Honed. They won't tolerate dirty Oil. They are suited for high compression and performance conditions and take a long time to bed in, which means it will probably use more oil.

Yes it will be, I want it fully 'tip-top' serviceable, as I'll sell it on at some point, maybe attached to the C-120. Most Spindles nowadays use 'Sealed-for-Life'. Just found that the lower end of this Spindle Housing has been opened up to 1 5/8" from 40mm and they machined it too deeply, so more problems to sort. Have to check the remaining one now, just to be sure.

Hi Norm, No I won't remove any seals. Going to apply grease to the internal parts prior to assembly, then blank the Grease Zerk point off. I will apply grease into the upper area between the top of the Bearing and the separate Oil Seal below the Pulley and inside the bottom Spindle Cup to keep any water away from the lower Bearing.

Found more problems when I torqued up another Spindle Nut, no longer smooth n quiet. Had to dismantle it to see what was going on. Spacer tube on Left and the Shaft Oil Seal Collar on right - This look's very much like the Assembly had seized up in the past where the top Inner Race began turning with the Spindle and wore down the Spacer end and broke up. Collar also somehow cracked and lost metal in the cutout recess. Have to make the replacement parts as unobtainable separately new. Also a pic to show why both Seals on the top Bearing need to be removed if Grease replenishment is planned after new ones fitted, the grease will only come out of the seal below the Pulley because it can't get past the top seal if left in place- Hope this helps. Regards. .

Hi Koen, I found out via another Forum that it was made by the EHRLICH Company in Germany a rare machine in UK. Really good to see it has the original stand and Treadle. Likewise, if I had the space and time, I would also love to restore it. Regards

Ok, then your belt part number is 7473 and it should be 81.95 inches, so your 82" is the correct size-ish. As for a Pic, all I have is this one which is also a 7473 Belt on the same layout as yours- Regards

Hi Ya, Need to know if it's Manual or Auto ?.

Forgive me for posting a link to an item for sale on an Auction site that is not mine, but it is in a good sentimental cause. Delete it if not acceptable. My good friend Roly (of Yellow Mower Challenge fame) made a promise to a WW2 Flyer Veteran. The description in the Ad explains all, and I wondered if any Member (or viewers) who given the opportunity to see this would dearly love to restore it. I leave you with this Link- Vintage WW2 German Lathe . Regards

Hi Mark, Yeah, Have been repainting more parts today as it was nice n sunny. Thanks You/Ewan for sorting the Decals.

Just happened to be on here with a mug of tea at the time!. I agree with the service level. I've used them for over 35 years when they were originally in London, back when you wrote your order in the form of a letter or telephoned them. Never had a problem. I find I could throw all sorts of obscure part numbers at them and even now Paul always comes up with the parts (genuine OEM). I do also use others, even in the U.S.

Best place to enquire first is to contact Paul at - http://www.meetens.co.uk/ Are the parts for a K301 Ray?.

Continuity of your workmanship and ingenuity continues with consistency !! 'It's gonna be Great' . That was close Norm, you may have nearly missed the Show by a week!....but we wouldn't have let you.

I Get a regular visit from several Foxes/Vixens. This one was in particular- http://home.bt.com/ It kept turning up and eating the Windfalls, which by April when this was taken, had fermented and contained a fair amount of Alcohol. Got to a point where it could hardly walk- Couldn't establish if it was Drunk or Injured initially, but turned out to be the latter. Got the RSPCA on to it and they came to collect it. Didn't put up much of a fight, as it had an injured right Hind Leg and an infected left front Paw. I paid them for it's collection and treatment. 3 months later I was informed it was released into a field local to me Firing Running on all Four !. Got another really scruffy Mange one now. He even sat down behind me a few feet away when I was washing the Car the other week.. nonchalant as hell!. I'll try a catch a Pic of it next time.

Yep!, I agree, good job done. I was close to doing on of mine Red n Black a few years ago.

Have you established the Part Number for the Housing/Ass'y. Depending on the age, it's possible they are the same as some Countax models. As Norm says, an Ad placed in the 'Wanted' section and maybe a picture here with some dimensions will help.

Still churning this over in my head. I presume the 2 Deck Spindles run freely and smooth. If the engine runs smooth without vibration, then the Engine Pulley is ok. Not sure what the PTO Clutch set up is on these, but there could be something out of balance on the output side. A Deck Spindle may be bent, or a pulley attached to one is out (not concentric or buckled). There seems to be quite a distance between each Deck Pulley and back to the PTO, where the Belt could resonate and cause the vibration?. Could there be some missing Idler/Tensioner Pulleys that take up the slack over the unsupported belt distances?. Afraid I'm only guessing.here.

The Belt from my Deck also had quite thin parts around it's circumference and chose to bin it and get a new one on the basis that like yours, it may cause running issues.

Yeah, a Lift arm would be really helpful ! . Good job Norm. Welds are tidy . Are you going to do a destruction test?.

I caved in and thought I'd put a finishing spray coat over the Deck Shell to lose some of the brush marks in the paint. Ordered Custom filled Aerosols from the same place as the Tin of Enamel and same RAL Colour number with the anticipation it would be a pretty close match . 1 can was packed already damaged and not in transit- Yes, they ship them with the Nozzles fitted as well !!!. Delivered to me on the 20th at 1400 intact with no external damage. The attempt to make it look like damage in transit failed, as they forgot to include the missing bits of the Cap, the paint was solid and no paint or fumes inside the packaging...... Oh, and their response was 'They can guarantee it was not packed like that' . With a difference of 10 grammes between the Cans as well, I find the colour match is miles out on the Trial ass'y- .....So I have had to repaint the Brackets and to do the rest of the Carrier Frame as well . Decals are on order, as is the Spindle Drive Belt.

Just set this up as I have to check my new Blades for my Deck project. Imagine the Se-Saw principle or a pair of scales. Hopefully the pics will explain the principle for you. The idea is to set it up on a very flat surface with a straight Bar to fit snugly through the Blade Centre bore and to roll without friction resistance either way (left or right). Out of Balance- And well balanced- Surprised even these new genuine OEM Blades are out of balance. Idea is to carefully remove metal from the heavier side until perfectly balanced. Then just ensure they're fitted centrally on the Spindles and torque the retaining nuts or bolts to what ever the manufacturer specifies. Any probs, just ask.

Look's great. As for vibration, I presume you have checked the Blades for Balance after (if you have) Sharpening?. Often a balance issue with high speed rotating metal.

Only seen pics of one on here from Scotland where they were built -- LINK- Solid as Highland Granite by all accounts.