Anglo Traction

Ok, here is the link to your previous thread which includes the link to the Manuals for you to download. Just click/tap on your thread title below. The link is in my reply, so just click/tap on the link word BRIGGS in my post to take you to their website to download the Manuals (2 manuals, User & Parts). Any probs, just come back here. Regards.

Hello Mike, The symptom you describe is similar to Rich settings of the Fuel Idle Needle and possibly the High Speed Needle?. Have you set, or checked these to the manual I referred you to in your other Thread?. You should have the 7HP engine Model nbr 170700 which should have the One Piece Large Flo Jet Carb version fitted. It look's like the one in my Thread on an Osprey HERE Additionally, if you have set the needles correctly and their condition is good, then you may have a clogged Air Filter which can enrich the mixture. It must be clean and the paper membrane dry (not oil soaked). Provided the Choke linkage has not been tampered with and correctly adjusted, it will open to the desired position with the Throttle Lever in the Start position, which sounds like it is doing so.

Hi Chris, Late 50s-early 60s. Follow this link to an earlier post on I.D same style to give you an idea of what you have- Briggs I.D. If you do happen to find any numbers where they are supposed to be, put 'em up here. EDIT- Is it a cast iron Crankcase or Ali?. Regards

WH Snow Blade prices are gonna go through the roof if we get anymore of these blizzards down south!. Does it make me wish I had bought one years ago?..........er......non!.

Mmm, My manual states it runs at 3600 which is max for a standard motor (except K91). Therefore 1800rpm at half throttle. Not recommended to run constant below normal full rpm for various reasons (e.g. Oil splash Lubrication, Alternator output and HP). Suspect it would be best to set your pump to run at it's normal rpm when the engine is at or near full speed (I set my engines to 3450rpm using a cheap Laser Tacho).

Just caught up with your progress and challenges Darren. A real 'Labour of Love' and very well executed work!. It's a shame you couldn't obtain the original tyre size and a rough estimate is an extra 9" of machine travel for each rpm, or 24% increase in speed, so your attachments/speeds will be less effective and you may have to break into a 'Canter' behind it . As for the Shaft wear, with the need to fix it one way or the other, I would look to replace the shafts. Not knowing the lengths of each one, or what the metal 'Hardness' figure is, it would not be as difficult or more labour intensive to grind off the Sprocket welds, mark up and re-weld onto new shaft(s) after milling the Keyways and pin locations. Treating to the original RC Hardness may not be required if precision ground Silver Steel is used, as it is around 27 RC hardness in it's supplied, machining condition. A 13" length of 1" dia (+/- 0.0005") is £12.27+ vat....... longer lengths avail. Correct Bushes can then be purchased........ I'm not an expert though!. I'm sure Jim Beacon will provide you with good/better advice and looking forward to seeing your progress. Glad to see the the Mk12 from John/Alan has found a very useful home.

Hi Chris, Those Mower drive attachments are from the mid/late 60's. The items circled in red below are for a 42" Mower Deck (5-1421) from 1968>, so keep those 2 pieces together. They need a Frame on the Deck in order to fit the Idler and the other Hitch Plate needs a 'Stand off' small bearing/pulley to engage with the curved edge. Both Hitch Plates in the pic are pre 1973, as there are only 2 fixing holes for Bolting to the Frame, but then you probably know that Regards.

Thanks Ian, Neil and Iain, Belated N,Year greetings, been 'Off Grid' for a while. Yeah, the Drive Unit I wanted is from the late 60s. It was an intermediate design during WH's transition from Short to long Frame, supplied with certain Decks and before the Attach- a Matic system. Here is a link with pics of the item (1st 3 images) in a Thread on RS- -RS LINK- . I will be impressed if you have one lying around!

Well, it turns out I won't be getting this Deck Drive Unit for my 72 Wheel Horse. Chased them (Shipper) up just before Xmas for an update, got a familiar response. 2 days later I get a full GSP refund back into my Paypal account!. I fired off an Email to the Seller, as I knew they had received the returned item. Asked if I was likely to get a refund?. No reply, but yesterday got an Email from Ebay saying they have refunded the purchase and Seller's postage charges!. So I got all my money back, but no item unfortunately. 2 months of hard work fighting for this and I had not used my last options of Paypal's system and Legal- smug mode.

As Nigel says, the diaphragm should be replaced (270026) be careful with the Spring and Pad Washer that mates up to it. The Tubes with Mesh Screens on are technically both Fuel Pick ups. The Long one picks up fuel from near the bottom of the Tank and drops it into the Internal Fuel Bowl. (it overflows back into the Tank over the edge of the Bowl) The Short one sits in the Internal Fuel Bowl in the Tank which supplies the Carb, In order to avoid the long job of trying to get fuel up the long pipe to the Pump, you need to fill the Tank so the Internal Fuel Bowl fills. Edit...........Shorter distance for the Intake Vacuum to lift the Fuel ......... I originally said wrongly that the Pump Diaphragm lifts it The Long Pipe might well be of Brass? and not advisable to attempt removal, if Brass, the Screen at the bottom of it will pull off and you need to make sure all of the fuel tubes and capillaries in the Pump body are super clean. The faces of the Pump where the diaphragm fits must be smooth and the screws done up in a staggered sequence. The Short Tube is usually Nylon and is replaceable (push in) if the mesh is rotted. Should have Hexagon base to use a socket on it to twist it out. Suspect your Throttle Rod return Spring is discontinued, so will only be replaced by a used item.

As mentioned..Junk it. I'll bet the screws retaining the 2 parts of the Crankcase have loosened. There is only 3 of them (Phillips head). Cr--p design I thought about stripping one down and fitting more and proper bolts and dowels, but only thought about it for 1/2 a second !.

Well Ian, It is getting near Christmas !........save's on Decorations Perhaps a Skid Lid would be handy.

Very nice work on the Manifold sir!. I heard that preheating an Iron casting helps, and the use of Wire with a high Nickel content work very well. Seems you don't need it! .

You're right Norm, Sorry Ian, wasn't concentrating as I had the F1 Gp on.. Damn it Lewis missed it!.

Ahh!, the ole Stillsons. They look identical to my Dad's which I now have. In the Pic Ian, Are you Shearing the Nut/Bolt off, or is it a left hand Thread?. Noticed the way it is set is to tighten a R/Hand thread. I see there are many Ball joints available in U.S & Canada. Did you import or source in UK?. Lastly, are the Tops different to the Lower joints?.

Just to clarify the problem I believed I had with the Tubes for these narrow tyres, here's a link to a previous thread on it- -LINK- . Regards

Oooh........tempting Neil, I may well be in touch.

Yep!. Had sussed all that Neil , I hope you are able to get over the mourning of your reluctant sale. But you also really need to get rid of one of your good ones , .........so you are able to lavish more attention on the remaining Herd Regards.

A real good project. Glad you saved it. reminds me of the Fairground Shooting Galleries of the old Travelling Fairs back in the early 60s. the attractions were pretty old then. Just need an old .22 or .177" Air Rifle with the Squiffy Sights and bent Barrel and you're set up!.

Well, by some coincidence, while scrolling through an old magazine online (dated June 1940, Practical Mechanic), I found this advert that look's to be a similar vapourising /oxygenating process to obtain the same, or similar result.- Looking back into history, often surprises you and find that it can invariably repeat itself.

Great Vid work Ian, very impressive !. If you want a laugh though, run it with the Subtitles On . Show the awkward Lower Arm swivel Joints to the Press and scare it/them out

Not correcting, just adding. Early RJs (55-57) I believe had pressed steel Chassis/frames and Cast Iron Steering wheel? I'm Impressed Nigel !. Beat me. And you managed to prise it from someone's 'Warm Live Fingers' ! ............ I'm still hoping to get one one day.

It look's rather like a Low Powered Farm Milking Parlour Engine used to run a pump, or may have been used for running a generator/dynamo. Should be Water Cooled?. Presume it runs on Gas or Fuel Oil (Kerosene)?. All depends on condition, any maker's Marks and how much of it is missing, as to what it's value is, no Idea.

Update on this Saga, is that I received another confirmation of an error due to Shipper Agent, this time from the Main GSP Company. E-Stray are still blatantly denying it and refusing to make attempts to reverse their decision in 'Favour of the Seller' and issue refund in my favour. Actually, I now don't give a damn about them anymore (insert Emoticon with upright middle digit) !. Their attitude is appalling. The Shipping Company is arranging for the 'Returned to Sender' item to be re-sent to me with full Tracking Assistance overseen by them!. So I presume the Seller also agrees, as he now has it back (although no contact received from him). Will have to wait six weeks for it though. No sweat really, as I always wanted the items anyway.

That's one bad experience, glad you're ok . They should allow you to buy it back, saves them the cost of disposal etc. Would be a good thing to do, if either you get the repairs done, or salvage all that's good on it for upgrading a replacement. Get what you can out of them.