Anglo Traction

Yep!, Magnesium it is. Don't wish to deviate too much from your original Topic, the spike is shown (numbered 53) on the IPL, but no reference in the parts list with a part # - I think to keep it all tidy, I could add the Parts List to the old original Topic I started on the Chainsaw in 2014 -LINK- along with the spike. Unsure about resurrecting old Topics. Regards

Nice collection Alain. If I may, a question or two. Do you store them with fuel in, or drained ?. I tend to drain mine and run to dry, as there is a tendency for the original Fuel Cap (Plastic male screw in type) has a tendency to expand. It may be because I use Aspen4 for mixing the Fuel/Oil, which is very pure. I will eventually get around to making a new one (discontinued) out of Brass or Alloy once I identify the Thread form. Regards.

Although I usually avoid cutting them until June, it looks like the better way to deal with them up there Norm. Very nice attachment to own . As for the face fungus, I joined the club last August when I became .............. a Pensioner . Wonder if they were Closed toed shoes when he started?.

Nice work on the repair George, sorry, Alain . Yeah, I would also have less trouble with names if they were replaced with numbers . I must get around to fabricating a 'Felling Spike' for my tiny '71' Beaird-Poulan XXV, now I have the Parts List illustration, as I need it for some cutting soon (optional extra then). The one on your Red Homelite 2000 auto looks meaty !.

Yep!, if it's recommended, then probably the best way to go. I don't know how old your machine/engine is, but B&S quoted the use of both types Res/non Resistor type Plugs, depending on application. This is according to the 1981 version of the workshop Manual. Modern engine versions in various categories are a different story (Vehicle, Non road, handheld etc), so it's good to see you checked the requirement and asked the question. Yep! Legislation has a lot to do with it and interference is another word for Ignition Noise. Many of us can remember the interference on our old 405 line Tellys when an Un-suppressed car went past the house!. At the end of the day, manufacturers specify a particular type and we ignore this at our own (possible) cost. We have to choose who we want to believe, either modern Vehicle engine manufacturers, or Spark Plug manufacturers as to what the (possible) causes of performance issues are from incorrect application- -NGK- Kohler Manual also specified Non and Resistor types (as at revision 1992), but also quoted 'RH' for all (then current) models, which may well be as a result of legislation.

Neat work Alain, like the colourDid you fix the damage on the other machine you posted on a while back? (Metal Shop, Magnesium Repair).

Spark Plugs with resistors are for reducing or eliminating 'ignition noise' and removing 'Peaks' in current which can have a detrimental affect on running. Should be used where specified. For example, using Non- resistor Plugs can cause erratic Idle, misfires at higher rpm, overrun (pre-ignition), abnormal combustion and power drop at certain speeds. It all depends on the application etc. Ignition noise affects electronics in the vicinity of the engine i.e transistorised electronic ignition, phones and other equipment. Make of Plug is personal choice and personally, I use both NGK and Champion and never (50 years) had any fail, but replace when felt necessary.

You are right to consider speeds Angus. I had checked that all out on my 36"RD for my own curiosity. Full engine speed (recommended) 3500 rpm, PTO pulley 4" dia, Mower Deck Driver pulley 4" dia , Driven 4" driving 14inch dia centre Blade = tip speed of 145.83 MPH (@ 3500rpm) Outer 12inch Blades with 3 inch Pulleys= (3500rpm x 1.25) tip speed of 156.25 mph @ 4375rpm. I fitted sealed Bearings rated at over 7500rpm continuous. So roughly a 20% increase or decrease in speed if a double 4inch/5inch Pulley is reversed.

I'm struggling to find a correct I.D. for that Deck Norm, been through most of the 70s onwards. The Model number you quoted back on page 1 refers to a 1977 Deck and with Double 'D' type Spindles with a Double Pulley with both Pulleys the same size (as per IPL screen shot I posted in Oct 17). The nearest style 42 SD Deck with small/large Double Pulley and Keyed/Locknut Spindles (except for the tensioner style) is this example from 1978- Note the orientation of the Double Pulley. The later 1980s Models seem to have the larger pulley on top!. So I've no idea what this deck was fitted to originally what with the odd Deck Hanger and the possibility that the Spindles may have been swapped out with different ones at some point. Or the Belgium Assy Plant 'Frankensteined' it to fit an oddball Tractor?. As you say, only option is trial and error set ups to find the best option.

Hi Norm, re the Belt length issue, it may also be that the main Drive (Centre) Pulley shown in your last (Monday) pic is upside down?. The original Pic at the start of the Thread shows the smaller pulley at the Top. The Spindle Drive Belt fits onto the lower larger of the double Pulley and the PTO-Deck drive Belt goes on the smaller upper Pulley. That should give you the longer/more slack length in the Belt and the correct Spindle RPM. Nearly there and ready to cut grass.

Links for you- http://www.oldlawnmowers.co.uk/ol-spares.php https://www.oldlawnmowerclub.co.uk/sites/default/files/opmanual/Ransomes Minor Mk6.pdf

Looking good Ewan !. perhaps a piece of a fleece will go well on that cold iron seat .

Hello Ray, It's likely the Clutch is slipping and needs cleaning. Usually due to oil getting on the Shoe faces. The rotation Arrow on the Thin Nut depicts both the rotation of the Engine/Shaft and the direction to undo the nut (left hand thread). To undo it, it is best to remove the Pullstart mechanism on the other side to expose the Flywheel to find a point where you can 'Lock' the rotation with a short piece of wood between Flywheel and Saw Body (don't use the Fins). Edit- you may be able to use the Flywheel nut to oppose the Undo action of the Clutch. Reverse process for reassembly where when done, the engine will run against the nut and tighten it also.

Hi Ron, Welcome. I have no idea of an alternative Carb that will fit. Your Carb should(?) look like the one in this -LINK- You could check out the Home page of the Link and search it for answers and/or join their Forum to see if anyone can help you with an alternative. Can you give me an idea of the Outer diameter, Height and Centre hole dia of the Float, as it is possible one could be made.

Sorry, I've just edited my last. It was the Canadian Serial number I have trouble with identifying having only 4 digits. The Spec number was the design Spec required or chosen by Howard Rotovators.

As Jonathan has said, worth keeping the 'Zebedee' factor at bay when removing it !. Struggling to locate any info on the Canadian Kohler Serial number. U.S serial numbers appear to start with a Letter, then 6 digits ?. The Spec nbr is listed as supplied to Howard Rotovators, so maybe S1g (Gareth) can shed some light on it when he's back on here?. In the meantime, here's an exploded view of the constituent parts to check for any you maybe missing-

As already mentioned, great work Ewan . your decision to remake it in thicker steel was the wise one. It look's perfect for purpose and good to see you chose to place a gasket between it and the paintwork........quality ! . .......and the good, clear images in your posts also make all the difference.

I believe there were a few versions of retractable Starters fitted Ewan. What is the Model and Serial number of your engine?. It may allow you/us to identify type and any missing parts Also, it look's like the Spring broke at the 'Coiled' point (rusted solid) when someone tried to turn the engine over in the past. It will be worth soaking the Spring in situ anyway to free it up and eventually remove it for inspection, as it may be saved. I've done this before and reformed the shape(s) on the broken end and are still working fine to date.

I stand corrected on my assumption then Alan. Still, I'm sure they will be of use on something. Regards.

Imagine they are from a good quality Pedal Car circa 1940s-50s Alan?. I'll do some digging to see what I can turn up about them. Assume British, or American with Imperial dims. I would be interested, but wonder about availability/cost of tyres n tubes?. Be a shame to scrap them.

Asked if I could do something to save this Fuel Tap from an early 60s machine for a friend. I first tried to obtain the part as a spare from the manufacturers (Karcoma). They still produce them for various motorcycles etc . No parts available even though the design is pretty well unchanged. The original little screw on Filter Cup is plastic with a coin slot and hex end to undo it. A mistake in design really, as they are likely to be over tightened, I suppose as there are no spare parts, they can sell more for replacement (up to £35.00 each) - The cup is the 3rd fuel filtration process which will also separate and retain any water (small quantity) and has a small cylindrical filter which fits onto small spigots both in the cup and the Tap body, so I had to measure carefully to ensure it is not crushed when the Cup is screwed on, but that the seal doesn't leak. I settled for Brass to make it, which allowed me to do all the work and produce and insert the small internal spigot, then Hard solder it in the exact position. I also had to I.D. the thread form (metric 18 x 1mm) and cut it on the old Myford (imperial). After reading up on it, I had to do this by manual turning, as you can't disengage the 'Leadscrew' drive, or it will be misaligned!. All went well- Fortunately, there were only 4 full threads and it was the first time for me producing them. To finish it off, I produced a new sealing washer from reinforced Viton rubber of the correct thickness. To reduce the over tightening factor, I added a 'reeded' finger grip area on it, rather than a screwdriver slot etc. All finished ready for years of use-

Thanks all/Alan, Looking forward to using it. Have several projects on the go still, back to the T' Engine, WH 8 speed Trans full overhaul, SACHS 2 stroke to get running and continue with the Villiers engine project . Bit of house general maintenance and gardening. Have been offered a machine powered by Protein and Carbs (treadle power), but need to see it and if I have space. Otherwise, it's wait for the sunshine and a few Beers in a Chair !. Regards.

Thanks Alan. Keeps the old Grey Cells active . Apart from a few minor adjustments, it's all done and very smooth in operation now. Colour is greener and darker in reality (flash probably messed it up). I worked out that the 'feed rate' is about 8 thousandths of an Inch per rev, so it's a bit fast for metal. I may just play with the Cam and Actuator Arm and halve that ratio. Just a Chuck key to obtain and it can be put to work- Gear cover on. I'll fill the drilling scars in the Base Foot plate- Wheel faces and column will be protected from rusting. Wooden Handle has been soaked with Raw Linseed Oil, oven dried and polished- Enjoyed doing this one and will be allocated a space on the new Bench when I've built it.

Quite a productive weekend so far and extended my familiarity with certain operations and problem solving. Started on the replacement Drive Shaft. For anyone interested, I took images of the sequence to make it. Clamped a length of 3/16" dia Silver Steel to enhance the angles/line of the original drilled 'Lock Pin' hole- I was then able to use the Rod to set up on the Lathe, so a Ball Nosed Slot Drill would mill the radiused groove along the correct line. The Rod checked first against a Face Plate, then against a set of precision Parallels and 'V' Blocks laid on the Bed Ways- Offset was only about 2 degrees from parallel along the Shaft (arrowed), and about 4 deg on the tilt from vertical (obscured by spanner) - Finished machined Shaft along with the old one for comparison- Some careful measuring and prep before pressing the shaft in to ensure the two parts with the partial holes line up worked ok- Pin pressed back in ok and happy with the result. Well, with a 12 ton Press sitting in the Workshop, it seems a shame not to find any work for it.

In between cleaning and painting the Castings (nearly finished), I pressed out the primary drive shaft from the Bevel Gear- Yep!, the 'Lock Pin' was inserted into a compound angled hole !. This will give me a nice interesting challenge to reproduce the correct recess in the new shaft so I can accurately refit a Pin using the original part hole made in the Bevel Gear. I've worked it out already, just need to set the Lathe up after cutting the new shaft steel to length, hopefully tomorrow.