Anglo Traction

Yeah , well done Chris. like Ian, it's 10 years for me too. First ever sight of a WH for me was this in 2007- Took me a year to get my hands on it.

The large Sprocket in your first pic is/should be retained by what is known as a 'Selloc' Pin (Roll Pin). It really needs a correctly formed 'Punch' where the end has a smaller shouldered end that can pass into the Selloc pin's end and the outer larger surface to contact the end face of the Pin to prevent distortion of it. The Punch/Drift should be just under 3/16" diameter (5 mm is too big and 4mm is too small really) Once you have removed the Pin, it may require a 'Puller' on the Sprocket depending on the 'Fit'. Once the Sprocket is off, the other half of the Roller will slide off the shaft leaving the various parts of the Freewheel ratchet/drive which is shown in your second image. Plenty of lubrication on the Pin to ease removal. Not an expert really, and maybe worth waiting for someone like 'Wristpin' to stop by and advise.

Great pics Mark. Glad it's up there though. You could always start up a loan/swap system, as there must be loads of long redundant WH Snow Plough Blades down this way. You could call it 'Plough Share' .

That's about my pace to do things Nigel.....sometimes longer. I hope to speed up when it's warmer though ! . Glad to see you're progressing Ian. great work

Good example of design and reliability. Used the same engine as was fitted to the Hawker Hunter (Avon). Engine Starter System included Cartridge (Coffman) firing - same as these re-purposed, cut down memento examples from my Father's career-

I was not quite 2 yrs and probably chewing a Farley's Rusk when he broke the 4 minute mile. Certainly a popular achiever still when I was 9 or 10. R.I.P

Thanks Norm. i have a reason for delayed reply and final post on this Topic. I have to admit that I got Roly's location in the picture wrong. He's the Scallywag up in the Tree. His elder brother is with the Mower. Thank you Alan. Respect . Well. After long deliberation and some mild recent arm twisting, I have decided to part company with this Lovely machine and it now resides in the hands of the Curator/Museum of the South Downs Heritage Centre (3 miles away from where I was born). The original owner and family are more than happy to hear that it's gone to the new home for many to view 'In the Tin' so to speak. Thanks to all for the motivation/compliments to finish this one. So I close this off with an image of it in it's prime location- I'm told there is still more work on the information material to finish the display, but it certainly look's at home there. Regards.

I should be down as the forecast now is for a Balmy 6-8 degrees that day.

Great work as usual Alan . Lists of jobs and the cold workshop factor are a common setback. I'm also getting itchy fingers and want to get on when it warms up.

Yeah, I agree Alan. It's a bit nerve wracking with the small sizes. I used a 0.8mm drill for 90% thread engagement and started each thread with a taper Tap, then second and bottom held lightly in a Pin Chuck so the Tap would slip rather than break when it resisted. I've broken 3 Taps on the whole project. 2 x 10BAs in steel and dropped the other . Think I've nearly done all the Tapping work on parts for this thankfully. Just Nuts and Bolts to make.

Part number should be 298316. Page 15/16 of the Parts Manual which is available to be downloaded (or emailed) along with a User Manual from this B&S Link page.

It's distinctly possible that I and something of mine will be down there on the day.

Next time you're in the Greengrocers Norm, ask him if he's ever been to Lincolnshire?.

Thanks Alan, been very impressed with your work as well...... I'm glad to have been able to get back into this project. Haven't been able to spend much time in the workshop as it's been too cold lately. Can't justify heating it. The Engine has been reduced to a pile of bits now. Lots of parts and jobs to do while reassembling and prepping for paint etc and seemingly relentless additions to the Jobs List. I'm going to join a Model Engineering Club so I can have their Inspectors check the already certified Boiler over while it is in this condition- I would prefer to have this with a Current Certificate when completed in addition to the original Boiler Certificate. Today, I finished drilling and tapping the last of the tiny holes in the Cylinder Block for (18) 14BA Screws for the Insulation Cover Plate. I only had Cheese Head Screws and so had to machine each one down to a rough Round Head shape to finish properly when I finally fit them- I'm only too pleased to have been able to do all the machining work on this accurately, and Drilling, Tapping etc without breaking a Drill or Tap. Just a bit of filing and shaping to finish and it will be ready to fit onto the Boiler.

Superb quality job Ewan. After all the various skills you've applied to finish this project, the result will never cease to put a smile on your face when you see/ride it. 

Eventually got some time on this recently. Finished fabricating the Stainless Steel Fire Grate (from 25 individual pieces) shown here sitting on it's Ash Pan with stainless retaining Pin-

Hi Alain, I commiserate with your situation on the standard of News you are offered there. UK is/maybe slightly better off with services that are quite disciplined with the balance, content and variety in general. I watch a lot of the BBC News 24 and Current Affairs progs which link to subjects in Asia (via Singapore Newsroom) and the US at certain day/night times. It may be worth trying to pick the Channel up over there if poss, as there are many interviews done with US Political figures on the same/similar news subjects and issues. It may allow you a different view of info/coverage on subjects within your own Country?. I'm not saying Brit TV News is the best or perfect, but has the ability to be right up there with self criticism of non balanced views, accepts publicised criticism and goes to considerable lengths to be unbiased (usually). You/we will never get a service that does not over inflate, exaggerate, dramatise, moralise, control what we see/hear or go back to older stories to establish outcomes (except for some wars/confticts). However, if there is choice, we may feel better about it and be better able to judge what is real, fake or worth knowing about. Regards

Hello Bob, Welcome. I can't help with details of your machine, but I have sent you a Personal Message (top right of page near your Username). Regards

Yeah! H.N.Y. to all. Have to go now, but back Next Year... hopefully with some contributions.

Welcome Steve, It is always good to hear of younger persons interests in the Older Machines. I could be 'Pigeon Holed' as a 'Fence Sitter', but fully accept Wristpin's concerns as essential consideration. I also fully endorse education and mentoring by supervision by a competent person, of which I perceive you to be, along with the vast majority of the considerate persons on this Forum. I hope your Son (and yourself) furthers the interest in Older Machines and their mechanics with minimal risk to himself . Also credit you for maintaining with him, an equilibrium in practical reality and electronic games and remote communication media (this Forum excepted) . There are younger persons on here who have followed a similar path with these machines and now equal, or surpass the standards of even my capabilities. I'm only pleased to see the interest and knowledge passing to another generation. Long may it continue. Regards.

Hi Alain, Well, you can either just apply the Epoxy after making the shallow holes and roughing the surface. Or you can drill a little bit deeper and 'Spring' a piece of thin wire in and between the holes so it sits lower than the Lip height and build up with Epoxy around it for added strength. You can then trim it to shape before painting. Regards.

I can only agree with everyone on here that any application of heat by flame is a 'No No' with regard to the risks. Tank Dent is sorted I believe, by replacement . I would look to use a good Metal Repair Epoxy and 'Dam' the inside wall edge of the Lip with a piece of nylon or shaped Beeswax to which the Epoxy will not adhere. The bonding faces should only need a clean with a Dremel type drill with a Burr Tool to rough it up- Thickness of the Lip look's only about 3/32" , if you have a small enough drill Bit, then small indentations at either end and at an angle shown should be more than is required to provide a Key/anchor for the resin- Difficult to say how the damage was caused, but I'm sure it won't reoccur in your possession. Metal Repair Epoxys are very good (not the 5 minute setting ones) and I've even machined them with very good results. Regards.

Hello Ray, I have to keep searching for your Tractor Model, as they are not all the same system of Battery layout/restraint. I presume the image below is like your machine?. Easy enough to fabricate to actual spec if you note the spacing and diameter of the holes in the Tray. if the rods and hole dia is a 1/4", I can produce a set if you're desperate. I would just need to know what your Battery type/height is , if you have now sorted which one you need.

Yep!, my Manual is the later revision (which I will upload to the Reference Files for Download section on here), but covers the early ones also and only refers to the same re Pins. Just looked at your Link to H30 IPL Scans in your earlier post and they show the 2 styles of Cylinder casting and surprisingly no Valve Pins considering they are examples from 1961 and 1967. Wonder if both H30 versions were produced alongside each other for different applications?. I know they were fitted to some Mini Bikes in the U.S. I was hoping to tie the Engine down to a close Model and Spec number(s) for Pete, but I failed. Looks and sounds like you are in no need of assistance in your quest for parts and numbers. Look forward to seeing your progress on it. Regards