Anglo Traction

Don't know of any originals, or what they look like, but could one be made/fabricated using the Right Hand one as a reference?.

Very nice acquisition Darren, a comprehensive set of ancillaries must be pretty uncommon. If it is the original paint on the Tractor, it look's very good. That's you fully occupied for Winter then!.

I think I recall seeing your Face Plate on a bench in a pic of your old Workshop (before your move) you posted in 'What Lathe have you got' (What's in the shed Forum), but when I checked, the pic is not linked any more,....... I was sure you had one though.

Very nice Motor, well done !, I remember a Black V8 Pilot that used to cruise around my Village in the early 60s. It was the low rev burble sound of the engine that always got my attention. Yours look's to be a fine example.

Well Nigel, I don't know how I missed that when I last visited. Must've been on a high shelf. That's one real nice project . I've been tempted to pester you via PMs to find out what your progress has been Alan. Now it's out in the Daylight, you're going to have to keep us updated in a Thread, along with Nigel's .

If you are able to drill it, bolt it to a Face Plate with stand-off packing between it and the Face Plate. You will then be able to use the gap in the Bed which will allow about 9inch swing. Look forward to seeing what you have planned.

It clearly remembers you Norm!. It broke it's cable so it didn't have to go back. That Oil you got out of it was probably what's left of the Oil you put in several years ago.

Thanks Ian, Well, I don't know how I survived without a press of some kind in the Workshop. Got this far yesterday- One on the right need the larger curve finishingThis one just needs a few tweaks Biggest challenge is putting the gentle radius' in and so have to improvise using what is available!. I used various Rod sizes, an old Deck Wheel and I also nicked one off the ATCO to put the bigger curve in .....needs must..... - Quite enjoyable doing this bit with the right tool(s) .

Right, I've just did a Google search for the Carb Nozzle using this - briggs carb nozzle 390395 and it throws up loads of available options as NoS (new old stock) . So if yours is iffy, get a new one and the needle valve to ensure a good fit. There is a limit to the total file size of your basic Forum membership, so you probably hit the limit. You can reduce your image file sizes on your Phone, PC or Laptop down to about 400kb. You can then edit your existing posts by removing the high file size images and replacing them with the reduced size images. I think you're restricted to 16mb. Alternatively, if you're planning to be a frequent user of the Forum, consider being a 'Supporter' for $10 a year!. It will allow you unlimited uploads. Finish on the Engine is all by hand. There was not a lot of paint on the Fins initially, but a lot of rough 'Casting Flashing'which I removed with various files. I sprayed the Fin areas with Silver Engine Enamel. The Crankcase had all the paint carefully chipped off as it came off easily. then progressive grades of 'Wet or Dry' Carbon Paper. Final quick polish with 'T Cut' Auto Paint polishing compound (Old type, not the Metalic version).

Very clean for an early 60s. Unusual design and good find. Ok if you don't need to see behind to reverse.....if it does go backwards?.

Ok, No problem, you don't have to use Ebay, I use it as a default search engine as well as Google. I use plenty of places in the States for parts like Partstree, RCPW, Mowers4u etc. All have their quirks and varying stock availability. Thanks for the perfect clear images and the numbers, we can now find what you need by using part numbers. I had anticipated and searched for the Breather Hose info using a different Engine Model number and it has thrown up a query for me. There are 2 types (I know of) of Breather Unit Briggs used on this Engine type. Here are the 2 images from the IPLS- As you can see, the one you want is on the right. The dilemma however is that both types have the same part number of 67068 !, so I can only assume they are made to fit both types. They are about $8.00 each so no big deal really. I'm sure you can make it fit. As for Carb parts, Briggs don't produce a Carb Overhaul Kit anymore for your Medium 2 piece Flo-Jet Carb (nor do any aftermarket outlets like Stens), but you can obtain most of the the genuine parts individually- . Item 118 is the Needle Valve you should have on your Carb. Note the Tube Nozzle insert is not available, so hopefully it is not damaged. Here is a link to Partstree's data base covering your engine model. NOTE when you ever need to search using your engine numbers, Replace the last 01 with 99. Lastly, I believe your engine has an Alloy Crankcase and you mention cleaning it back to metal. I did the same thing on a Briggs powered Genset a few years ago, but did not need or use a lacquer to protect it, just a wipe over occasionally. Here is a link to the Thread on here- Edit- Forgot that you may want to lacquer the Steel Shrouds and possibly the Tank?. You can get heat resistant Clear Coat, but you need to check if it is Fuel Resistant?. If not, then you need Fuel Proof Clear Lacquer for the Tank and prone spill areas. Don't know what products are available in U.S.

Little bit of progress. So while Ian was cutting up Deck Carrier Bars for his project, I was cleaning and repairing mine. Finished all the repairs to the Deck Carrier Frame and painted after adding weld metal to some of the parts - Finished cutting the metal for the Baffles and Grinder is good as new . Started to put the location of the important bend in the facing plates by improvising a press using the Brick reveals of the garage side Door opening- Gave up after getting the bend started, as it was too painful for the old joints (the Baffle shapes are also cut out and finished now). So to sort the metal bending jobs and future projects, I hit the button and ordered a new 12ton capacity Press so I could manage better. So a reshuffle is required in the workshop tomorrow.

Post your Engine Model, Spec and Serial numbers and maybe we can point you to where in the U.S. you can obtain what you need. The 2 pics don't give much away, but I suspect your Carb may be the Medium 2 piece Flo-jet version, which has the short stubby High Speed Needle Valve?. Sounds like you need a full Carb overhaul Kit to be sure all will be good. They are pretty cheap (for you in U.S), but you need the correct Kit. Also if your model has a Fuel Pump (unlikely), it will need a different Float Valve Seat. EDIT- Use this part number/link for the Filter Element- -LINK- Regards.

I reckon there is a lack of clarity between 'Ritzed' and Blitzed . Does the 5 Star refer to the number of Heavenly Bodies you can see through the Roof at night ?

Great to see it close up the other day Ian. Your welds are looking real good too. Your gonna need a set of Oil Skins n Wellies to ride that in the wet/mud

You're right there Chris, always liked to have stuff arrive. Just good, clean working order that won't rot through in a few seasons Ian. Brush painting it, so no superior finish . Finished the Wheel Bolts. Had to Screw cut the start of the 3/8" UNC threads, then use a Die as it was quite hard for me with the Die stock straight off by hand- With the Wheel Bolts done, The Deck Undercarriage is finished ready to fit. Also the Deck Belt Tensioner- Deck Shell clean up has been interrupted 'cause the 10 yr old Angle Grinder started haemorrhaging grease. It had been stored a while, and when I went to use it for this job, Oil had seeped out of the head into the Storage case. So I presumed it was the old grease breaking down and separating. Got worse, so I dived into it today for an inspection and clean up- Both the Race Bearings are good, but not sure about the Driven Shaft (small end) Bearing. Anyway I cleaned up the Commutator and fitted new Brushes. Repacked the Gear Head with Graphite Auto CV Joint Grease and sealed the joint to contain the Grease, except for a small section at the front, so if it seeps out there, I'll know if there is a problem again. Runs perfect and sounds like a jet engine on wind down, so hopefully get some more use out of it . Had to do this job as the steel has arrived and I have to cut it up for the Baffles......That's the Weekend arranged then !.

You're right , it isn't. Have you also noticed the rear tyres?...apart from being different, the R/H side is on the wrong way round.

Belated Birthday Wishes Alain. Clearly you're making the most of it and suspect your acquisitions will keep you busy/occupied for a few weeks. Enjoy the rest of the day

Very Handy peice of gear Mark...... Have you established as 'SWL' limit for it?.

Nice Gauges Mark. I seem to remember you doing the Tachos on RS Forum. I was thinking about that Custom Neon Tractor on that Gut Bug Yoghurt advert when you mentioned Pimped WH! .

Not that Brand Alain, but here there are brand like Kurust and Trustan 23 which do the same. I also find them very handy, but they can't cope with thick rust and the job has to be well dry before priming/painting.

Handy machine. I like the 'Sod Buster' label in 1st Gear position . I had duel Belts on a '71' JD 624E Tiller, operated by a lever and pulley driven off the Camshaft for reverse. That machine look's way tidy. I get ones that look like this to sort out-

Presumably the magnets are still good and can attract a large flat blade Screwdriver from a distance of 3/4" (a test noted in the Techy Workshop Manual). What you have ordered there should make it fire up.

I'm sure it's been done, but would check if you need to tilt the machine back more with a Wheeled Seat than when walking behind it. I know Kohlers have a 30 degree safe tilt limit for short duration to prevent starving the Oil Dipper of adequate Splash Lubrication, but I don't know about the Villiers MK10,12 or 15 on yours...I know they don't hold as much Oil. Otherwise go for it.

Great job on the Deck fabrication . Slow, but steady progress on the Deck. New bits have been arriving and I decided to make new Baffles as these are too tatty- Both now gone and ready to be Sandblasted 'n' Weldthru Primered in those areas, rest will be Etch Primed- New Baffles will be sealed to deck shell and then squirted with Waxoyl via a small access plug. Got the Anti Scalp Roller Pin out, looked pretty sad. Replacement Roller is Albino!, but will do the job and less expensive than the Black plastic Toro replacement. Also been machining up Bolts for the new Deck Wheels, as the old bolts are bigger?- And the 'Pukka' New Blades have arrived- Got them delivered for less than they appear to retail for in U.S.. Back to more fettling........