Anglo Traction

Continuity of your workmanship and ingenuity continues with consistency !! 'It's gonna be Great' . That was close Norm, you may have nearly missed the Show by a week!....but we wouldn't have let you.

I Get a regular visit from several Foxes/Vixens. This one was in particular- http://home.bt.com/ It kept turning up and eating the Windfalls, which by April when this was taken, had fermented and contained a fair amount of Alcohol. Got to a point where it could hardly walk- Couldn't establish if it was Drunk or Injured initially, but turned out to be the latter. Got the RSPCA on to it and they came to collect it. Didn't put up much of a fight, as it had an injured right Hind Leg and an infected left front Paw. I paid them for it's collection and treatment. 3 months later I was informed it was released into a field local to me Firing Running on all Four !. Got another really scruffy Mange one now. He even sat down behind me a few feet away when I was washing the Car the other week.. nonchalant as hell!. I'll try a catch a Pic of it next time.

Yep!, I agree, good job done. I was close to doing on of mine Red n Black a few years ago.

Have you established the Part Number for the Housing/Ass'y. Depending on the age, it's possible they are the same as some Countax models. As Norm says, an Ad placed in the 'Wanted' section and maybe a picture here with some dimensions will help.

Still churning this over in my head. I presume the 2 Deck Spindles run freely and smooth. If the engine runs smooth without vibration, then the Engine Pulley is ok. Not sure what the PTO Clutch set up is on these, but there could be something out of balance on the output side. A Deck Spindle may be bent, or a pulley attached to one is out (not concentric or buckled). There seems to be quite a distance between each Deck Pulley and back to the PTO, where the Belt could resonate and cause the vibration?. Could there be some missing Idler/Tensioner Pulleys that take up the slack over the unsupported belt distances?. Afraid I'm only guessing.here.

The Belt from my Deck also had quite thin parts around it's circumference and chose to bin it and get a new one on the basis that like yours, it may cause running issues.

Yeah, a Lift arm would be really helpful ! . Good job Norm. Welds are tidy . Are you going to do a destruction test?.

I caved in and thought I'd put a finishing spray coat over the Deck Shell to lose some of the brush marks in the paint. Ordered Custom filled Aerosols from the same place as the Tin of Enamel and same RAL Colour number with the anticipation it would be a pretty close match . 1 can was packed already damaged and not in transit- Yes, they ship them with the Nozzles fitted as well !!!. Delivered to me on the 20th at 1400 intact with no external damage. The attempt to make it look like damage in transit failed, as they forgot to include the missing bits of the Cap, the paint was solid and no paint or fumes inside the packaging...... Oh, and their response was 'They can guarantee it was not packed like that' . With a difference of 10 grammes between the Cans as well, I find the colour match is miles out on the Trial ass'y- .....So I have had to repaint the Brackets and to do the rest of the Carrier Frame as well . Decals are on order, as is the Spindle Drive Belt.

Just set this up as I have to check my new Blades for my Deck project. Imagine the Se-Saw principle or a pair of scales. Hopefully the pics will explain the principle for you. The idea is to set it up on a very flat surface with a straight Bar to fit snugly through the Blade Centre bore and to roll without friction resistance either way (left or right). Out of Balance- And well balanced- Surprised even these new genuine OEM Blades are out of balance. Idea is to carefully remove metal from the heavier side until perfectly balanced. Then just ensure they're fitted centrally on the Spindles and torque the retaining nuts or bolts to what ever the manufacturer specifies. Any probs, just ask.

Look's great. As for vibration, I presume you have checked the Blades for Balance after (if you have) Sharpening?. Often a balance issue with high speed rotating metal.

Only seen pics of one on here from Scotland where they were built -- LINK- Solid as Highland Granite by all accounts.

Certainly look's in better health than Andy's (Wheeledhorseman) D200 that he covered in a Thread a few years back on RS. I remember he was also mystified with those tiny WH Stickers. Nice big old lump of a Garden Tractor.

Good effort Chris !, still some way to go to reach the abilities of the old Top Gear Team with Caravans though .

See you've been busy Norm . Glad it's all running well after a good workout !.

It looks better now Norm. Difficult job getting the sealant off initially, I had to chip it off, then deal with the rust and prep. Wish I knew what they used, 'cause I would put some back on it. Been slapping the old Tractor Enamel on the underside of the Deck (first coat), mainly to use up the remainder in the can- Belt Covers and Rear Chute painted today, so they're dangling in the Garage to dry.

Wouldn't be for a Tractor........ for a project (on paper at idea stage) that would require a 90 degree drive with a Universal Joint on the input Shaft.

I got curious and had to look up the Spec on all but one of your Chainsaws. I could not relate to the use of the word 'Automatic' in the Model name and notice the Plunger on the rear near the Handle of 3 models. I found they have an Automatic Oil Feed and a Manual Pump !. Interesting!.

Would love to get a hold of one of those 90 degree Shaft Drive Units on top of it .

Thanks Gents for the opinions on the underseal options, always welcome suggestions, so I'll have a good think about which way to go. I have a large spray can of Automotive chip resistant white paint to use up, so I'll put that on first, followed by whatever, but would probably be comfortable using a good enamel like Norm says, then would have the option to slap Underseal of some kind on if required ?. . I had a long think about pulling the seal(s) and keeping the Grease Point, but decided against it after posing the question on Redsquare and for 2 other reasons. I would not expect anyone to notice the deliberate assembly error in my pic of the fitted Spindle, but the upper Spacer face that the Oil Seal Lips run on were graunched . I had to fit it upside down (it was fitted wrong originally anyway) which negated my option to pull both of the seals from the Top Bearing. This would be essential if I wanted to grease them, as the 2 small cutouts in the top Spacer have to line up with the Grease Groove in the Spindle so the grease is forced via the top of the upper Bearing, through it's Race and into the chamber to hopefully somewhere near the bottom one. Problem is, I could not see where any pressure/air relief could escape from the chamber in order to allow more grease in, short of blowing the lower seal, or the separately fitted top Oil Seal (unless everything is a loose fit with gaps !. Secondly, the bearing spec is good enough for me and there are Sealed for Life Bearings all over these Tractors and their ancillaries that go through hell and survive long time....we shall see. Thanks, Regards.

Yeah,! a real nice set of 'ole Slicers there Alain!. Not a Chain Brake in sight. My tiny 72 Beaird Poulan XXV is a dream to use and just won't compare to modern stuff. You have been conspicuous by your absence and glad to see you here again Regards

Hello and welcome to the Forum............... Most impressed with your effort to produce a superb finish on that machine. Others here will know much more about Westwoods than me, so can't offer an opinion on quality of it's mowing performance. I'm sure your Father-in-Law will enjoy using it irrespectively.

Finally got my Bearings delivered 4 days late. I always seem to get the dyslexic stand-in Postman who tries to deliver my package(s) to somewhere else.....and it was a 'Sign For' item- Rant over, I fitted the bearings with both seals in place and so will blank off the Grease point. The Spindle needed more finishing to remove more raised scoring before fitting without excessive strain on the bearings. The top Oil Seal is a cheaper SKF double lip version, as it will now only need to keep dust and water out and the proper Toro Seal would cost over ukl£20!. So having prepped the Deck Shell for paint, I had put the first coat of the horrible Synthetic Paint on 4 days ago and still waiting for it to fully harden. With the Centre Spindle rebuilt and silky smooth spinning, I fitted it back in place- I will do away with the Keys from the Pulleys at a later stage and convert to Nuts and Lock Washers as per Wheel Horse Service Bulletin #429. I have one spindle with a slightly sloppy Keyway. Getting close to deciding what kind of final finish coating to apply underneath.

Most impressed with your approach and developing a wealth of skills playing with old metal Ewan !. The subject is about as challenging as they can get. I'm sure you'll overcome the problems. I'll also be following with interest.

What more can one say Gareth?. Classic example where a combination of addiction and quality work only produces perfection. Well worth the effort (and the aches 'n' pains)

It looks ok now Norm, bit of a state when I started the long job, but should be good for a few seasons if cleaned properly and carefully. Been sorting the Anti scalp Roller. I Machined up 2 flanged Bushes to fit the bearings and the fabricated Pin. I used Cast Iron and as many will know, it produces a lot of fine particles of black dust. So having mentioned this in a PM to Alan, here is a pic of the result that a few carefully placed Magnets wrapped in a plastic bag can do to confine it- It catches most of it and allows a quick clean up after. Finished Bushes and a sliding fit on the 1/2" dia pin- As I'm pinching the flanged Bushes against the Roller bearings between the 2 mower brackets I needed to thread the end of the Pin 3/8" x 18 UNC for a nylock Nut. Rest of the parts and the old Pin - Trial fit and all good..... back to cleaning and painting. Regards