Anglo Traction

Certainly look's in better health than Andy's (Wheeledhorseman) D200 that he covered in a Thread a few years back on RS. I remember he was also mystified with those tiny WH Stickers. Nice big old lump of a Garden Tractor.

Good effort Chris !, still some way to go to reach the abilities of the old Top Gear Team with Caravans though .

See you've been busy Norm . Glad it's all running well after a good workout !.

It looks better now Norm. Difficult job getting the sealant off initially, I had to chip it off, then deal with the rust and prep. Wish I knew what they used, 'cause I would put some back on it. Been slapping the old Tractor Enamel on the underside of the Deck (first coat), mainly to use up the remainder in the can- Belt Covers and Rear Chute painted today, so they're dangling in the Garage to dry.

Wouldn't be for a Tractor........ for a project (on paper at idea stage) that would require a 90 degree drive with a Universal Joint on the input Shaft.

I got curious and had to look up the Spec on all but one of your Chainsaws. I could not relate to the use of the word 'Automatic' in the Model name and notice the Plunger on the rear near the Handle of 3 models. I found they have an Automatic Oil Feed and a Manual Pump !. Interesting!.

Would love to get a hold of one of those 90 degree Shaft Drive Units on top of it .

Thanks Gents for the opinions on the underseal options, always welcome suggestions, so I'll have a good think about which way to go. I have a large spray can of Automotive chip resistant white paint to use up, so I'll put that on first, followed by whatever, but would probably be comfortable using a good enamel like Norm says, then would have the option to slap Underseal of some kind on if required ?. . I had a long think about pulling the seal(s) and keeping the Grease Point, but decided against it after posing the question on Redsquare and for 2 other reasons. I would not expect anyone to notice the deliberate assembly error in my pic of the fitted Spindle, but the upper Spacer face that the Oil Seal Lips run on were graunched . I had to fit it upside down (it was fitted wrong originally anyway) which negated my option to pull both of the seals from the Top Bearing. This would be essential if I wanted to grease them, as the 2 small cutouts in the top Spacer have to line up with the Grease Groove in the Spindle so the grease is forced via the top of the upper Bearing, through it's Race and into the chamber to hopefully somewhere near the bottom one. Problem is, I could not see where any pressure/air relief could escape from the chamber in order to allow more grease in, short of blowing the lower seal, or the separately fitted top Oil Seal (unless everything is a loose fit with gaps !. Secondly, the bearing spec is good enough for me and there are Sealed for Life Bearings all over these Tractors and their ancillaries that go through hell and survive long time....we shall see. Thanks, Regards.

Yeah,! a real nice set of 'ole Slicers there Alain!. Not a Chain Brake in sight. My tiny 72 Beaird Poulan XXV is a dream to use and just won't compare to modern stuff. You have been conspicuous by your absence and glad to see you here again Regards

Hello and welcome to the Forum............... Most impressed with your effort to produce a superb finish on that machine. Others here will know much more about Westwoods than me, so can't offer an opinion on quality of it's mowing performance. I'm sure your Father-in-Law will enjoy using it irrespectively.

Finally got my Bearings delivered 4 days late. I always seem to get the dyslexic stand-in Postman who tries to deliver my package(s) to somewhere else.....and it was a 'Sign For' item- Rant over, I fitted the bearings with both seals in place and so will blank off the Grease point. The Spindle needed more finishing to remove more raised scoring before fitting without excessive strain on the bearings. The top Oil Seal is a cheaper SKF double lip version, as it will now only need to keep dust and water out and the proper Toro Seal would cost over ukl£20!. So having prepped the Deck Shell for paint, I had put the first coat of the horrible Synthetic Paint on 4 days ago and still waiting for it to fully harden. With the Centre Spindle rebuilt and silky smooth spinning, I fitted it back in place- I will do away with the Keys from the Pulleys at a later stage and convert to Nuts and Lock Washers as per Wheel Horse Service Bulletin #429. I have one spindle with a slightly sloppy Keyway. Getting close to deciding what kind of final finish coating to apply underneath.

Most impressed with your approach and developing a wealth of skills playing with old metal Ewan !. The subject is about as challenging as they can get. I'm sure you'll overcome the problems. I'll also be following with interest.

What more can one say Gareth?. Classic example where a combination of addiction and quality work only produces perfection. Well worth the effort (and the aches 'n' pains)

It looks ok now Norm, bit of a state when I started the long job, but should be good for a few seasons if cleaned properly and carefully. Been sorting the Anti scalp Roller. I Machined up 2 flanged Bushes to fit the bearings and the fabricated Pin. I used Cast Iron and as many will know, it produces a lot of fine particles of black dust. So having mentioned this in a PM to Alan, here is a pic of the result that a few carefully placed Magnets wrapped in a plastic bag can do to confine it- It catches most of it and allows a quick clean up after. Finished Bushes and a sliding fit on the 1/2" dia pin- As I'm pinching the flanged Bushes against the Roller bearings between the 2 mower brackets I needed to thread the end of the Pin 3/8" x 18 UNC for a nylock Nut. Rest of the parts and the old Pin - Trial fit and all good..... back to cleaning and painting. Regards

Nice pics, thanks. I see the work of Young Max (Vinnetrow). The Car with the twin Midget Mk2 M/cycle on the trailer. I presume he was there.....or sold it/them?.

Thanks for the pics Chris, missed that one. The F1 GP magnet kept me at home.

Good luck with the project Norm. It's a bit of love/hate relationship doing this deck. I enjoy doing it when able, but frustrating when you find the evidence of the 'Bodger Squad' having been there before you. I had some nagging doubt about leaving the main Driven Spindle Ass'y as is. There was the slightest evidence of a 'Graunch' in the bearing somewhere. So I torqued up the nut to spec on the double Pulley to find it worsened. I decided to pull it and replace the bearings. The spindle had to be carefully pressed out showing signs of bad scoring and the Oil Seal had been damaged when assembled in the past. Ordered new quality bearings and seals last night and extra spare ones- The top (original) bearing was ok. The bottom one was made in Taiwan with a rubber shield (cheap type) and was the cause. Progress on the Shell going well. Baffles welded in, sealed and primed. I also decided to plug the 13 unused factory pressed out holes in the shell, as they tend to assist with the rust process and allow grass up into the drive belt area on top- Sorry for the last being a tad out of focus. Still some de rusting of the last 3 panels to do (not great fun in hot weather). Finished shortening the 8 stainless Belt Cover fixing bolts to 1/4 inch so there is little protuberance underneath and starting on the front wheel spindle ass'y. ........ Lathe Time . Regards.

Hi Iain, If you don't want your old Carb,don't junk it, I will have it. I would like to fully rebuild one (a #30) off of a 16hp Kohler, as I have only done a #26 from a 12hp. See this- -LINK- As for dating the D160, They were first introduced in 1974 model # 1-0650 (if you can find the little black plate anywhere). If not....... As Norm says, check the Engine numbers on the Blower Housing, usually, if the engine was ever replaced, the old covers and Housings were fitted to it. I say this, as I see from your pics that the engine is painted Grey, and this often says Replacement to me. Normally there would be traces of the original red on it?. So it would be either a 74, or a 75, as they fitted Onan Engines from 1976 (unless Belgium Plant messed with the U.S Model Schedule spec again and fitted whatever they had laying around). 1982 ceased production I believe. Regards.

Clearly a methodical mind at work. Most impressed Alan. I'm sure your welding is also way superior to mine . I'm sure there are many people here with machines that could produce/turn up anything for you that you aren't able to.......... Should you need any, just drop us/me a PM.

My turn to say for delays to Thread updates. I have excuses. I had to slow this job down so I could do small short sessions when the opportunity arose. The plan to have the Deck Shell Media Blasted was cancelled, and so I set to cleaning it back myself. It has taken several months to get the rust off and treat ready for welding the Baffle metal in place. Checking the fit and positioning- The old Baffles had slots cut out to fit the Nuts for the forward Bracket Bolts. I wanted to avoid any slots that would let the Baffles fill with grass, dirt and stones again. So I have made 1 Mushroom Head bolt Captive each side under the curved Plate. The other 2 have clearance (just). The condition of the shell (underside) when most of the rust was removed is very good considering, but a lot of work to clean it all off so that the Rust converter I used converted it all.The top surfaces are fine. Combination of Etch, Weld Through and Oxide Primer being used initially- Also noted that the old Baffle welds had cracked on the apex of the curves, so I incorporated 2 steel tube posts to add strength and to serve as a conduit for injecting Waxoyl into them- I drilled the shell 1/4" dia to allow a long bolt to hold the tube(s) in place while I tacked them. I can then Tap the holes 5/16" UNC for screw plugs. The slots cut into the tube's bottom end will allow the stuff to flow in. So some more tack welding to fit the bottom plates to do (I'm not good at welding yet) and finish prep underside soon .

Amen to that....time and also space is at a premium, and I'm not officially retired yet!. No problem with the delay Alan, it's looking great. I have made the 'Long Gap Mistake' several times, but due to different problems. Catching up slowly though. Regards

Great work Norm and a very nice Attachment. Always fancied one, but I no longer have a use for one.

Looking forward to seeing the progress Alan !. I've got plenty of bite marks on my Lip from about a year of anticipation.

I use these people to obtain Friction Lining materials- if it helps you- -LINK- As for parts Manuals etc, if you look at Wristpin's post half way down PAGE 1 of this thread, you will see links to Dropbox files. Regards

What size of Ball is required?. I have an assortment of fractional inch sizes in Steel, Stainless and Phosphor Bronze, all precision finished. Size range from 1/16" to about 5/16" I think....some bigger. If I have what you need, I can help you.