Anglo Traction

Thanks Gents for the opinions on the underseal options, always welcome suggestions, so I'll have a good think about which way to go. I have a large spray can of Automotive chip resistant white paint to use up, so I'll put that on first, followed by whatever, but would probably be comfortable using a good enamel like Norm says, then would have the option to slap Underseal of some kind on if required ?. . I had a long think about pulling the seal(s) and keeping the Grease Point, but decided against it after posing the question on Redsquare and for 2 other reasons. I would not expect anyone to notice the deliberate assembly error in my pic of the fitted Spindle, but the upper Spacer face that the Oil Seal Lips run on were graunched . I had to fit it upside down (it was fitted wrong originally anyway) which negated my option to pull both of the seals from the Top Bearing. This would be essential if I wanted to grease them, as the 2 small cutouts in the top Spacer have to line up with the Grease Groove in the Spindle so the grease is forced via the top of the upper Bearing, through it's Race and into the chamber to hopefully somewhere near the bottom one. Problem is, I could not see where any pressure/air relief could escape from the chamber in order to allow more grease in, short of blowing the lower seal, or the separately fitted top Oil Seal (unless everything is a loose fit with gaps !. Secondly, the bearing spec is good enough for me and there are Sealed for Life Bearings all over these Tractors and their ancillaries that go through hell and survive long time....we shall see. Thanks, Regards.

Yeah,! a real nice set of 'ole Slicers there Alain!. Not a Chain Brake in sight. My tiny 72 Beaird Poulan XXV is a dream to use and just won't compare to modern stuff. You have been conspicuous by your absence and glad to see you here again Regards

Hello and welcome to the Forum............... Most impressed with your effort to produce a superb finish on that machine. Others here will know much more about Westwoods than me, so can't offer an opinion on quality of it's mowing performance. I'm sure your Father-in-Law will enjoy using it irrespectively.

Finally got my Bearings delivered 4 days late. I always seem to get the dyslexic stand-in Postman who tries to deliver my package(s) to somewhere else.....and it was a 'Sign For' item- Rant over, I fitted the bearings with both seals in place and so will blank off the Grease point. The Spindle needed more finishing to remove more raised scoring before fitting without excessive strain on the bearings. The top Oil Seal is a cheaper SKF double lip version, as it will now only need to keep dust and water out and the proper Toro Seal would cost over ukl£20!. So having prepped the Deck Shell for paint, I had put the first coat of the horrible Synthetic Paint on 4 days ago and still waiting for it to fully harden. With the Centre Spindle rebuilt and silky smooth spinning, I fitted it back in place- I will do away with the Keys from the Pulleys at a later stage and convert to Nuts and Lock Washers as per Wheel Horse Service Bulletin #429. I have one spindle with a slightly sloppy Keyway. Getting close to deciding what kind of final finish coating to apply underneath.

Most impressed with your approach and developing a wealth of skills playing with old metal Ewan !. The subject is about as challenging as they can get. I'm sure you'll overcome the problems. I'll also be following with interest.

What more can one say Gareth?. Classic example where a combination of addiction and quality work only produces perfection. Well worth the effort (and the aches 'n' pains)

It looks ok now Norm, bit of a state when I started the long job, but should be good for a few seasons if cleaned properly and carefully. Been sorting the Anti scalp Roller. I Machined up 2 flanged Bushes to fit the bearings and the fabricated Pin. I used Cast Iron and as many will know, it produces a lot of fine particles of black dust. So having mentioned this in a PM to Alan, here is a pic of the result that a few carefully placed Magnets wrapped in a plastic bag can do to confine it- It catches most of it and allows a quick clean up after. Finished Bushes and a sliding fit on the 1/2" dia pin- As I'm pinching the flanged Bushes against the Roller bearings between the 2 mower brackets I needed to thread the end of the Pin 3/8" x 18 UNC for a nylock Nut. Rest of the parts and the old Pin - Trial fit and all good..... back to cleaning and painting. Regards

Nice pics, thanks. I see the work of Young Max (Vinnetrow). The Car with the twin Midget Mk2 M/cycle on the trailer. I presume he was there.....or sold it/them?.

Thanks for the pics Chris, missed that one. The F1 GP magnet kept me at home.

Good luck with the project Norm. It's a bit of love/hate relationship doing this deck. I enjoy doing it when able, but frustrating when you find the evidence of the 'Bodger Squad' having been there before you. I had some nagging doubt about leaving the main Driven Spindle Ass'y as is. There was the slightest evidence of a 'Graunch' in the bearing somewhere. So I torqued up the nut to spec on the double Pulley to find it worsened. I decided to pull it and replace the bearings. The spindle had to be carefully pressed out showing signs of bad scoring and the Oil Seal had been damaged when assembled in the past. Ordered new quality bearings and seals last night and extra spare ones- The top (original) bearing was ok. The bottom one was made in Taiwan with a rubber shield (cheap type) and was the cause. Progress on the Shell going well. Baffles welded in, sealed and primed. I also decided to plug the 13 unused factory pressed out holes in the shell, as they tend to assist with the rust process and allow grass up into the drive belt area on top- Sorry for the last being a tad out of focus. Still some de rusting of the last 3 panels to do (not great fun in hot weather). Finished shortening the 8 stainless Belt Cover fixing bolts to 1/4 inch so there is little protuberance underneath and starting on the front wheel spindle ass'y. ........ Lathe Time . Regards.

Hi Iain, If you don't want your old Carb,don't junk it, I will have it. I would like to fully rebuild one (a #30) off of a 16hp Kohler, as I have only done a #26 from a 12hp. See this- -LINK- As for dating the D160, They were first introduced in 1974 model # 1-0650 (if you can find the little black plate anywhere). If not....... As Norm says, check the Engine numbers on the Blower Housing, usually, if the engine was ever replaced, the old covers and Housings were fitted to it. I say this, as I see from your pics that the engine is painted Grey, and this often says Replacement to me. Normally there would be traces of the original red on it?. So it would be either a 74, or a 75, as they fitted Onan Engines from 1976 (unless Belgium Plant messed with the U.S Model Schedule spec again and fitted whatever they had laying around). 1982 ceased production I believe. Regards.

Clearly a methodical mind at work. Most impressed Alan. I'm sure your welding is also way superior to mine . I'm sure there are many people here with machines that could produce/turn up anything for you that you aren't able to.......... Should you need any, just drop us/me a PM.

My turn to say for delays to Thread updates. I have excuses. I had to slow this job down so I could do small short sessions when the opportunity arose. The plan to have the Deck Shell Media Blasted was cancelled, and so I set to cleaning it back myself. It has taken several months to get the rust off and treat ready for welding the Baffle metal in place. Checking the fit and positioning- The old Baffles had slots cut out to fit the Nuts for the forward Bracket Bolts. I wanted to avoid any slots that would let the Baffles fill with grass, dirt and stones again. So I have made 1 Mushroom Head bolt Captive each side under the curved Plate. The other 2 have clearance (just). The condition of the shell (underside) when most of the rust was removed is very good considering, but a lot of work to clean it all off so that the Rust converter I used converted it all.The top surfaces are fine. Combination of Etch, Weld Through and Oxide Primer being used initially- Also noted that the old Baffle welds had cracked on the apex of the curves, so I incorporated 2 steel tube posts to add strength and to serve as a conduit for injecting Waxoyl into them- I drilled the shell 1/4" dia to allow a long bolt to hold the tube(s) in place while I tacked them. I can then Tap the holes 5/16" UNC for screw plugs. The slots cut into the tube's bottom end will allow the stuff to flow in. So some more tack welding to fit the bottom plates to do (I'm not good at welding yet) and finish prep underside soon .

Amen to that....time and also space is at a premium, and I'm not officially retired yet!. No problem with the delay Alan, it's looking great. I have made the 'Long Gap Mistake' several times, but due to different problems. Catching up slowly though. Regards

Great work Norm and a very nice Attachment. Always fancied one, but I no longer have a use for one.

Looking forward to seeing the progress Alan !. I've got plenty of bite marks on my Lip from about a year of anticipation.

I use these people to obtain Friction Lining materials- if it helps you- -LINK- As for parts Manuals etc, if you look at Wristpin's post half way down PAGE 1 of this thread, you will see links to Dropbox files. Regards

What size of Ball is required?. I have an assortment of fractional inch sizes in Steel, Stainless and Phosphor Bronze, all precision finished. Size range from 1/16" to about 5/16" I think....some bigger. If I have what you need, I can help you.

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread but I noticed the high volume of views and that I failed to add a pic of the finished Mower sorry!. Here is one I meant to add just after it was finished (along with other Reprobate Refurbs)- It looks like I'll be able to pull it's covers off and give it a run soon, so I'll try a Vid a working session. And just to add more detail to the recorded history of this Mower's life, my friend Roly (son of original owner) recently sent me some pics he found of him using the Mower when he was about 9yrs back in the early sixties- Regards.

Nice work Darren. Like you, I've done the same with the surplus Villiers Midget Mk2 parts. Hoping to get back to doing things with it in the workshop soon.

Hello Riber3, welcome to the Forum. Firstly, you can test the Armature/Coil using the advice on the B&S site- -LINK- . As far as I'm aware, the HT Lead is fixed to the Coil and sold as a complete unit. Part number for the Armature on your engine is 298968 and are about UK£33.00. for a genuine replacement. Other things to check are the 'Kill' or 'Ignition Ground/Earth Wire' and setting. The linkage may not be isolating this when the Throttle Lever is moved to start position. Some people have converted to a Transitorised Electronic Ignition system to replace the old system, where I'm sure someone on here would assist you with what is needed. If you prefer to stay with the original system, then it is also possible the Condenser may be faulty. As for Manuals etc for your engine model, if you click on this link, it will take you directly to B&S site's manuals for it. - B&S 170700 . Hope this helps. Regards

Good progress Ian, like the Suds Pump Setup. As for the Motor, like Norm says, it's a very reliable brand, but pretty powerful for your needs. I just checked the Start and Run Current draw for it, which will be in the region of 33 Amps and 16 Amps respectively!!. If your supply Amperage is questionable i.e 20 Amp Ring Main, then you may well find it tripping out on start up?. For your Lathe size a 1.5 Hp motor would be more than adequate and more economical to run with minimal risk of tripping drawing roughly 20 Amp Start and 10 Amp Run. But I'm no expert and I'm sure there are some on here to tell you otherwise if I'm wrong. My Myford runs with a Single Phase 1 Hp GE Dixon Motor bough new in '86' which never struggles and merely sips the amps . Keep up the good progress, I'm still in watch mode at the Mo', but will start working on the practical soon hopefully. Regards

Got some info for you Norm if it helps you. It's 1977. fits- B-100, C-120/160 Auto and Manual. Blade Kit part #100200. Deck Spindle Belt Part #6738 - Section 4L, 86 inch. Drive Belt #102742 - Section A , 85 inch. Good luck with the refurb

Hello Ray, Just to say that I fully agree with the advice offered re Valves etc, as I'm an advocate of pulling the head off of any engine I get irrespective of condition and give the Top End a good going over. The result is very few issues with starting and running. Only other thing to mention is that the 'Sooty' appearance of the Exhaust emission is usually caused by Over Rich Fuel settings, it will also retard your chances of an easier start. The 'Book' says the INITIAL Needle Valve setting on a 5hp Pulsa Jet/Vacu Jet Carb is 1 1/2 turns from a gently closed position. It is further adjusted (finely) to obtain the best running setting. This is assuming the Needle Valve Tapered end is not damaged or worn. Check your Plug gap is 0.030". Lastly, even if your Carb setting is correct, if your Air Filter is tatty and clogged up, then your fuel mixture becomes Rich. Always worth replacing it and servicing it regularly. Let us know how you get on. Regards.

I must have missed this thread Chris. What a great little machine you sniffed out. Good to know you're not entirely devoted to Red Tractors. ...... That must be a Keeper. I presume you will be at a certain Garden Centre tomorrow?. I was hoping to get down, but had to change plans. Maybe meet up sometime. Regards Richard