Anglo Traction

It's distinctly possible that I and something of mine will be down there on the day.

Next time you're in the Greengrocers Norm, ask him if he's ever been to Lincolnshire?.

Thanks Alan, been very impressed with your work as well...... I'm glad to have been able to get back into this project. Haven't been able to spend much time in the workshop as it's been too cold lately. Can't justify heating it. The Engine has been reduced to a pile of bits now. Lots of parts and jobs to do while reassembling and prepping for paint etc and seemingly relentless additions to the Jobs List. I'm going to join a Model Engineering Club so I can have their Inspectors check the already certified Boiler over while it is in this condition- I would prefer to have this with a Current Certificate when completed in addition to the original Boiler Certificate. Today, I finished drilling and tapping the last of the tiny holes in the Cylinder Block for (18) 14BA Screws for the Insulation Cover Plate. I only had Cheese Head Screws and so had to machine each one down to a rough Round Head shape to finish properly when I finally fit them- I'm only too pleased to have been able to do all the machining work on this accurately, and Drilling, Tapping etc without breaking a Drill or Tap. Just a bit of filing and shaping to finish and it will be ready to fit onto the Boiler.

Superb quality job Ewan. After all the various skills you've applied to finish this project, the result will never cease to put a smile on your face when you see/ride it. 

Eventually got some time on this recently. Finished fabricating the Stainless Steel Fire Grate (from 25 individual pieces) shown here sitting on it's Ash Pan with stainless retaining Pin-

Hi Alain, I commiserate with your situation on the standard of News you are offered there. UK is/maybe slightly better off with services that are quite disciplined with the balance, content and variety in general. I watch a lot of the BBC News 24 and Current Affairs progs which link to subjects in Asia (via Singapore Newsroom) and the US at certain day/night times. It may be worth trying to pick the Channel up over there if poss, as there are many interviews done with US Political figures on the same/similar news subjects and issues. It may allow you a different view of info/coverage on subjects within your own Country?. I'm not saying Brit TV News is the best or perfect, but has the ability to be right up there with self criticism of non balanced views, accepts publicised criticism and goes to considerable lengths to be unbiased (usually). You/we will never get a service that does not over inflate, exaggerate, dramatise, moralise, control what we see/hear or go back to older stories to establish outcomes (except for some wars/confticts). However, if there is choice, we may feel better about it and be better able to judge what is real, fake or worth knowing about. Regards

Hello Bob, Welcome. I can't help with details of your machine, but I have sent you a Personal Message (top right of page near your Username). Regards

Yeah! H.N.Y. to all. Have to go now, but back Next Year... hopefully with some contributions.

Welcome Steve, It is always good to hear of younger persons interests in the Older Machines. I could be 'Pigeon Holed' as a 'Fence Sitter', but fully accept Wristpin's concerns as essential consideration. I also fully endorse education and mentoring by supervision by a competent person, of which I perceive you to be, along with the vast majority of the considerate persons on this Forum. I hope your Son (and yourself) furthers the interest in Older Machines and their mechanics with minimal risk to himself . Also credit you for maintaining with him, an equilibrium in practical reality and electronic games and remote communication media (this Forum excepted) . There are younger persons on here who have followed a similar path with these machines and now equal, or surpass the standards of even my capabilities. I'm only pleased to see the interest and knowledge passing to another generation. Long may it continue. Regards.

Hi Alain, Well, you can either just apply the Epoxy after making the shallow holes and roughing the surface. Or you can drill a little bit deeper and 'Spring' a piece of thin wire in and between the holes so it sits lower than the Lip height and build up with Epoxy around it for added strength. You can then trim it to shape before painting. Regards.

I can only agree with everyone on here that any application of heat by flame is a 'No No' with regard to the risks. Tank Dent is sorted I believe, by replacement . I would look to use a good Metal Repair Epoxy and 'Dam' the inside wall edge of the Lip with a piece of nylon or shaped Beeswax to which the Epoxy will not adhere. The bonding faces should only need a clean with a Dremel type drill with a Burr Tool to rough it up- Thickness of the Lip look's only about 3/32" , if you have a small enough drill Bit, then small indentations at either end and at an angle shown should be more than is required to provide a Key/anchor for the resin- Difficult to say how the damage was caused, but I'm sure it won't reoccur in your possession. Metal Repair Epoxys are very good (not the 5 minute setting ones) and I've even machined them with very good results. Regards.

Hello Ray, I have to keep searching for your Tractor Model, as they are not all the same system of Battery layout/restraint. I presume the image below is like your machine?. Easy enough to fabricate to actual spec if you note the spacing and diameter of the holes in the Tray. if the rods and hole dia is a 1/4", I can produce a set if you're desperate. I would just need to know what your Battery type/height is , if you have now sorted which one you need.

Yep!, my Manual is the later revision (which I will upload to the Reference Files for Download section on here), but covers the early ones also and only refers to the same re Pins. Just looked at your Link to H30 IPL Scans in your earlier post and they show the 2 styles of Cylinder casting and surprisingly no Valve Pins considering they are examples from 1961 and 1967. Wonder if both H30 versions were produced alongside each other for different applications?. I know they were fitted to some Mini Bikes in the U.S. I was hoping to tie the Engine down to a close Model and Spec number(s) for Pete, but I failed. Looks and sounds like you are in no need of assistance in your quest for parts and numbers. Look forward to seeing your progress on it. Regards

Hello Pete, Just read this thread and a nice little challenge to sort that motor. I'm tending to agree with Wristpin on the H30 I.D. , only I have one thing puzzling me at the mo'. The Valve Retaining Pin System is on the earlier models, but from what I find in my checks is that it was used on Models that had the Exhaust outlet at the other side (90 degrees) from the Carb Inlet (e.g. Models with suffixes of G.H AND J). They redesigned the smaller 'H' series Crank/Cylinder Castings so that both Ports were on the same side face and appear to have changed the Valve Retaining System at the same time and changes using the Suffixes to K,L,M and N !. I can't find an overlap Model, but then I'm relying on Illustrated Parts Diagrams to show me the changes. Not easy without a full Model number. The Carb originally fitted was most likely a Series 1 version and as already established, downward cranked Inlet Manifold for lower positioning. There should be a longish flat bracket on the Carb to carry all the linkage between Governor - Carb and Throttle Lever/Cable to Carb. If you need a Full Service Manual for the Techy 'L' Head engines and links to possible Model Parts Manuals, let us know. I can PM you some Links. Regards.

I'll answer you call for help Norm. You're missing 2 plates which fit between the Shell and the Tension Bar. I believe they are/were made of Plastic or Nylon. The part (6748) is discontinued, so you will have to make them. I suspect they are about 3/16"-1/4 thick, but advise you check the Centre of the FLAT SIDE FACE of fitted Idler Pulley with the Spindle Pulley 'V' centres. The difference will give you the required thickness. A sheet of 6mm Nylon will cost under UKL£ 4.OO delivered. Also I noticed you fitted the Front (pivoted) Lift Bar the same way as when you received the Deck (very 1st pic). The V Fork should to be on the Right hand side. Item #18 >

Nice 'Dirt Shifter' . Good find and in good nick visually. I take it you have the Air Filter?

Great work Darren You should be pleased with the result. That Scythe attachment look's a real piece of a beast. Good to see a machine with loads of Attachments. Edit- Your car takes me back to 2004 and my ST220 loved it, but was a Point earner

Not a good thing to happen with the Rod failing, but best it went then, rather than later. From the pics it look's like the Crank Pin is badly scored in line with the Oil passage. Also shows on the Rod end. Poor maintenance with Oil change history is evident there. I've never seen a Rod break at that point before, Guys on RS always seem to have them break further up along the Rod and end up punching a hole in the Crank Case. I'll be interested to know the Spec 'n' Serial number of that engine, as they changed the Cyl Head style between 72 -74. A shame your 10hp Crank is not interchangeable with a K301s , as I have a pretty good one, although under spec on the Journal and needs a -0.010" grind. Can't see any Balance Gear Pins through the Crank Case apperture in your pic, did it have any?. Avoid removing the Camshaft/Pin unless absolutely necessary. If you do and considering the current problems, it will be worn and will need to be carefully re assembled when the Cam Pin is re inserted. Let me know if you do and I'll PM you a plan to remove and refit it. You've got me wanting to do a full rebuild on one of these again now!. Great to work on. Hope it goes ok for you and not too expensive.

Late 92 Alloy Engine with C/I cylinder sleeve. The 5 in the model number denotes the Reduction Unit fitted which is as suspected ratio of 6.1 (if it was a 6, it would denote reverse rotation). You'll need to do the oil check n fill separately as mentioned previously. Bore is 2.25" and so about 131cc (8 cu in). Here's the manuals for the Engine - B&S822524011.pdf B&S 082252.PDF Note in the Parts Manual page 24, they got the description/numbering wrong for the Fill Plug

I'm a bit unsure of your Engine type Andrew?. You say it's Cast Iron, but it look's like an Aluminium type/Model with a Cast Iron Cylinder Sleeve insert to me. When you find the numbers, as Alain has suggested above, can you post them here please.......if only to satisfy my curiosity. Thanks

Wish it was a straight forward answer, but it depends on whether the Engine is Aluminium or Cast Iron and engine size (Model Number)!. Surprisingly, it requires SAE 10w-30. 30w is accepted use in this Country as in the engine when used in average temps. Oil Change periods differ also with Engine size/type :- If your Aluminium Engine Model Number is 130000 or LESS, then it states- you only need to check 'n' top up the Red'c'n Gear level every 100 hours!. Ali Models 140000 upwards, it states- change the Red'c'n Oil every 100 hours. If the engine is Cast Iron, the Red'c'n Gear is lubricated using the Engine Crankcase Oil, so dealt with during Engine Oil checks 'n' change rate (25 hrs on all types). Points to note is not to mix up the Fill/Drain Plugs The Fill Plug should have a breather vent hole. Regards.

Good purchase of a very handy machine. First B&S engine I've seen with a 6-1 Reduction Gear Drive Unit fitted .

Good progress there. Suspect the D21 was a Workshop/Tool Room machine reference number applied by the Factory/Shop it was used in originally. They were used as a reference when setting up for a designated 'Job Run' and for the Machine's maintenance. As it was applied to the Back of the Machine, I presume the machines were arranged within the Shop so it could be easily seen. As for the number '13' stamp, not sure, but if the same number occurs on the Lathe/Tray as well, it would be a 'Match' number to keep/identify them together, as they were often shipped in a dismantled condition. If not on both parts, then it may well be it''s number out of a number units 'Cast' from that Pattern , or 'Production Run'. As your's is a Mk1 Model M, is the Base Casting Aluminium or Cast Iron?.

Nice find!. Very handy Unit ......Er, you know this means you can also now obtain some ELECTRIC Chainsaws and drive to the Tree as well now