Anglo Traction

Yep!, my Manual is the later revision (which I will upload to the Reference Files for Download section on here), but covers the early ones also and only refers to the same re Pins. Just looked at your Link to H30 IPL Scans in your earlier post and they show the 2 styles of Cylinder casting and surprisingly no Valve Pins considering they are examples from 1961 and 1967. Wonder if both H30 versions were produced alongside each other for different applications?. I know they were fitted to some Mini Bikes in the U.S. I was hoping to tie the Engine down to a close Model and Spec number(s) for Pete, but I failed. Looks and sounds like you are in no need of assistance in your quest for parts and numbers. Look forward to seeing your progress on it. Regards

Hello Pete, Just read this thread and a nice little challenge to sort that motor. I'm tending to agree with Wristpin on the H30 I.D. , only I have one thing puzzling me at the mo'. The Valve Retaining Pin System is on the earlier models, but from what I find in my checks is that it was used on Models that had the Exhaust outlet at the other side (90 degrees) from the Carb Inlet (e.g. Models with suffixes of G.H AND J). They redesigned the smaller 'H' series Crank/Cylinder Castings so that both Ports were on the same side face and appear to have changed the Valve Retaining System at the same time and changes using the Suffixes to K,L,M and N !. I can't find an overlap Model, but then I'm relying on Illustrated Parts Diagrams to show me the changes. Not easy without a full Model number. The Carb originally fitted was most likely a Series 1 version and as already established, downward cranked Inlet Manifold for lower positioning. There should be a longish flat bracket on the Carb to carry all the linkage between Governor - Carb and Throttle Lever/Cable to Carb. If you need a Full Service Manual for the Techy 'L' Head engines and links to possible Model Parts Manuals, let us know. I can PM you some Links. Regards.

I'll answer you call for help Norm. You're missing 2 plates which fit between the Shell and the Tension Bar. I believe they are/were made of Plastic or Nylon. The part (6748) is discontinued, so you will have to make them. I suspect they are about 3/16"-1/4 thick, but advise you check the Centre of the FLAT SIDE FACE of fitted Idler Pulley with the Spindle Pulley 'V' centres. The difference will give you the required thickness. A sheet of 6mm Nylon will cost under UKL£ 4.OO delivered. Also I noticed you fitted the Front (pivoted) Lift Bar the same way as when you received the Deck (very 1st pic). The V Fork should to be on the Right hand side. Item #18 >

Nice 'Dirt Shifter' . Good find and in good nick visually. I take it you have the Air Filter?

Great work Darren You should be pleased with the result. That Scythe attachment look's a real piece of a beast. Good to see a machine with loads of Attachments. Edit- Your car takes me back to 2004 and my ST220 loved it, but was a Point earner

Not a good thing to happen with the Rod failing, but best it went then, rather than later. From the pics it look's like the Crank Pin is badly scored in line with the Oil passage. Also shows on the Rod end. Poor maintenance with Oil change history is evident there. I've never seen a Rod break at that point before, Guys on RS always seem to have them break further up along the Rod and end up punching a hole in the Crank Case. I'll be interested to know the Spec 'n' Serial number of that engine, as they changed the Cyl Head style between 72 -74. A shame your 10hp Crank is not interchangeable with a K301s , as I have a pretty good one, although under spec on the Journal and needs a -0.010" grind. Can't see any Balance Gear Pins through the Crank Case apperture in your pic, did it have any?. Avoid removing the Camshaft/Pin unless absolutely necessary. If you do and considering the current problems, it will be worn and will need to be carefully re assembled when the Cam Pin is re inserted. Let me know if you do and I'll PM you a plan to remove and refit it. You've got me wanting to do a full rebuild on one of these again now!. Great to work on. Hope it goes ok for you and not too expensive.

Late 92 Alloy Engine with C/I cylinder sleeve. The 5 in the model number denotes the Reduction Unit fitted which is as suspected ratio of 6.1 (if it was a 6, it would denote reverse rotation). You'll need to do the oil check n fill separately as mentioned previously. Bore is 2.25" and so about 131cc (8 cu in). Here's the manuals for the Engine - B&S822524011.pdf B&S 082252.PDF Note in the Parts Manual page 24, they got the description/numbering wrong for the Fill Plug

I'm a bit unsure of your Engine type Andrew?. You say it's Cast Iron, but it look's like an Aluminium type/Model with a Cast Iron Cylinder Sleeve insert to me. When you find the numbers, as Alain has suggested above, can you post them here please.......if only to satisfy my curiosity. Thanks

Wish it was a straight forward answer, but it depends on whether the Engine is Aluminium or Cast Iron and engine size (Model Number)!. Surprisingly, it requires SAE 10w-30. 30w is accepted use in this Country as in the engine when used in average temps. Oil Change periods differ also with Engine size/type :- If your Aluminium Engine Model Number is 130000 or LESS, then it states- you only need to check 'n' top up the Red'c'n Gear level every 100 hours!. Ali Models 140000 upwards, it states- change the Red'c'n Oil every 100 hours. If the engine is Cast Iron, the Red'c'n Gear is lubricated using the Engine Crankcase Oil, so dealt with during Engine Oil checks 'n' change rate (25 hrs on all types). Points to note is not to mix up the Fill/Drain Plugs The Fill Plug should have a breather vent hole. Regards.

Good purchase of a very handy machine. First B&S engine I've seen with a 6-1 Reduction Gear Drive Unit fitted .

Good progress there. Suspect the D21 was a Workshop/Tool Room machine reference number applied by the Factory/Shop it was used in originally. They were used as a reference when setting up for a designated 'Job Run' and for the Machine's maintenance. As it was applied to the Back of the Machine, I presume the machines were arranged within the Shop so it could be easily seen. As for the number '13' stamp, not sure, but if the same number occurs on the Lathe/Tray as well, it would be a 'Match' number to keep/identify them together, as they were often shipped in a dismantled condition. If not on both parts, then it may well be it''s number out of a number units 'Cast' from that Pattern , or 'Production Run'. As your's is a Mk1 Model M, is the Base Casting Aluminium or Cast Iron?.

Nice find!. Very handy Unit ......Er, you know this means you can also now obtain some ELECTRIC Chainsaws and drive to the Tree as well now

Hi Ray. 0.020" is(was) the generic Points Gap of all old B&S Models...at least up to 1982 (as far as my Manual goes). What they did after that, I cannot say. Also, if you need to know, the Plug Gap was always 0.030". Regards.

Well Alain! Impressive collection, the old ploy of buying a lot of shelving initially worked ok then ! .......... Give's you the ready made excuse when your Wife asks why so many Chainsaws ? .....is that you have to fill all the shelves with them !! ......... The only downside I can see (if there is one) is that you will have absolutely no excuse to avoid cutting up the Logs by saying you don't have a serviceable Chainsaw! There's still some gaps to fill on those shelves though .

Mark up for Toro's own Keys makes it uneconomical for me to get from a Dealer here. Strange !. Just checked my Eb** search page and They did not show up on it initially Ewan?. I'd found their own Site (keysandpins.com), so thanks for finding that link and I'll file it, also very handy for others here in UK. Choice they offer for that size (1 or 5) is a bit strange? I will probably end up making a few sets myself, as I need some EN8 (C45) Steel for some other jobs, so they can be made from the waste bar end for very little Lathe time/cost. Regards

Been prepping a spare Wheel Horse 8 spd Trans to swap with the one in my C-120 to overhaul it- As can be seen, the Key ways are very tidy. The keys weren't bad either, but had some wear. Problem is I have scoured the Web for UK supplier of 1/4" x 1 3/8" Keys using every part and Key number with no luck (Bulk manufacturers do minimum of 100). So I thought I'd ask here if anyone has found, or knows of a supply of good spec that I can obtain from,........ before resorting to making a stock of my own?. (my other Transmissions use a different size). Regards. .

Classic building and design skills adopted from the principles of a foregone era !. 'Built like a Victorian Outside Brick Facility'

Me too . Stripping the old surface off is my favourite part, especially when there are crevices and formed beadings to clean off. Not a commonly known, or used process, but I've used broken glass for over 30 years to clean off old finishes. You need to find the pieces with the correct gentle convex curve edge, but it is so fast. I stripped over 40 feet of 50 year old Mahogany Bannister Rail of wax in about 4 hours ready for stain and varnish. Usual care need's to be adopted of course and is an art in it'self to obtain the correct angle.

Hi Alain, Yes, they were, but I hadn't mentioned them here because they only made Rear Discharge Deck up to 42", so I knew HORSEGIRL's Decks were Side Discharge. WH (and possibly Toro later) Deck Manuals (printed) were tended to be generic and covered variants of size and ejection point, i.e. 36" RD, 36"SD, 42"RD and 42"SD were all in one Manual on the earlier ones. I am not sure about the 80-90s models. Most Online PDF Files available for download have been modified and so information referring to a specific Model Deck number can be downloaded without the dross of other Models as well. At least , this is what I have observed. Regards.

Hi, Assuming the Decks are same age as the Tractors, or close, 73 16 Auto- Model # 1-0440. Deck 48in SD Model # 5-1210. 77 c-160 Auto Model # 71-16KS01. Deck 48"SD Model # 75-48MS01. The 60" Deck from a 90 or so 520 should have a model # like C5-60SC01 (1989). C5-60SC02 or 3 (1991), C5-60SC03 (1992) or 78390 (1993). you can check if they're all the same. The 99 518Xi (# 73471) 2 types of 52" Deck 78370 is a Side Discharge (but can be equipped with a Recycle Kit # 79185). The other is 52" Recycler Mower Deck # 78375. If you're not aware, all the these Model Numbers in Bold can be entered into Toro's Model Search Link HERE to obtain full Illustrated Parts Lists (if they have it). You will most likely find that many parts were standard/interchangeable on the earlier 48" Decks. I'll forward you some PDF Files and other links you will find helpful.. Regards.

I certainly look's 'Heavy Duty'. If it does the job required of it with no sweat,..... it doesn' t really need to be pretty .

Hello, and thanks for the compliments. Would just need to know which Deck versions you are running?. If they are the same size with similar Spindle types like mine, I can send you a message with all the files/images and links you need. Regards.

Thanks Gents, Felt on occasions that I had to push 'n' motivate myself to finish this job, but now it's done, I glad I persevered with it. Nice day, so I dragged the C-120 out onto the hardstanding and fitted the deck on. Went on ok and I had scrubbed up the old OEM WH Drive Belt that came with the Tractor. Surprising that it only had 2 small cracks in the narrow side of the 'V' considering it was wrapped around the front Axle for about 20 years outside!!!- Anyway, with it all belted up and reasonably tensioned, I Spun it up on Half engine speed to test the Governor and she turned nice and smooth when the PTO was engaged. No nasty noises, but a little belt wobble between PTO n Mule Drive, but then I hadn't tensioned it up to spec- During the next week I'll cut some grass to test it, when it has grown long enough. So I consider this 'Job Done'.........and there's another job waiting to be started on this machine and on the other one. Regards

Similar stuff to what I used up on mine only it was made? by Hammerite. Should offer reasonable protection. Looking much better now Norm and should last quIte a while. Yes Ewan. Biggest were SD 60" introduced in '76'. Prior to that, there was only the 42" and 48" SD, but there was a Rear Mounted 60" Deck (42" was the largest RD) .

Here is a link if anyone wants to pay a visit- Townings Farm