Anglo Traction

Nice pics, thanks. I see the work of Young Max (Vinnetrow). The Car with the twin Midget Mk2 M/cycle on the trailer. I presume he was there.....or sold it/them?.

Thanks for the pics Chris, missed that one. The F1 GP magnet kept me at home.

Good luck with the project Norm. It's a bit of love/hate relationship doing this deck. I enjoy doing it when able, but frustrating when you find the evidence of the 'Bodger Squad' having been there before you. I had some nagging doubt about leaving the main Driven Spindle Ass'y as is. There was the slightest evidence of a 'Graunch' in the bearing somewhere. So I torqued up the nut to spec on the double Pulley to find it worsened. I decided to pull it and replace the bearings. The spindle had to be carefully pressed out showing signs of bad scoring and the Oil Seal had been damaged when assembled in the past. Ordered new quality bearings and seals last night and extra spare ones- The top (original) bearing was ok. The bottom one was made in Taiwan with a rubber shield (cheap type) and was the cause. Progress on the Shell going well. Baffles welded in, sealed and primed. I also decided to plug the 13 unused factory pressed out holes in the shell, as they tend to assist with the rust process and allow grass up into the drive belt area on top- Sorry for the last being a tad out of focus. Still some de rusting of the last 3 panels to do (not great fun in hot weather). Finished shortening the 8 stainless Belt Cover fixing bolts to 1/4 inch so there is little protuberance underneath and starting on the front wheel spindle ass'y. ........ Lathe Time . Regards.

Hi Iain, If you don't want your old Carb,don't junk it, I will have it. I would like to fully rebuild one (a #30) off of a 16hp Kohler, as I have only done a #26 from a 12hp. See this- -LINK- As for dating the D160, They were first introduced in 1974 model # 1-0650 (if you can find the little black plate anywhere). If not....... As Norm says, check the Engine numbers on the Blower Housing, usually, if the engine was ever replaced, the old covers and Housings were fitted to it. I say this, as I see from your pics that the engine is painted Grey, and this often says Replacement to me. Normally there would be traces of the original red on it?. So it would be either a 74, or a 75, as they fitted Onan Engines from 1976 (unless Belgium Plant messed with the U.S Model Schedule spec again and fitted whatever they had laying around). 1982 ceased production I believe. Regards.

Clearly a methodical mind at work. Most impressed Alan. I'm sure your welding is also way superior to mine . I'm sure there are many people here with machines that could produce/turn up anything for you that you aren't able to.......... Should you need any, just drop us/me a PM.

My turn to say for delays to Thread updates. I have excuses. I had to slow this job down so I could do small short sessions when the opportunity arose. The plan to have the Deck Shell Media Blasted was cancelled, and so I set to cleaning it back myself. It has taken several months to get the rust off and treat ready for welding the Baffle metal in place. Checking the fit and positioning- The old Baffles had slots cut out to fit the Nuts for the forward Bracket Bolts. I wanted to avoid any slots that would let the Baffles fill with grass, dirt and stones again. So I have made 1 Mushroom Head bolt Captive each side under the curved Plate. The other 2 have clearance (just). The condition of the shell (underside) when most of the rust was removed is very good considering, but a lot of work to clean it all off so that the Rust converter I used converted it all.The top surfaces are fine. Combination of Etch, Weld Through and Oxide Primer being used initially- Also noted that the old Baffle welds had cracked on the apex of the curves, so I incorporated 2 steel tube posts to add strength and to serve as a conduit for injecting Waxoyl into them- I drilled the shell 1/4" dia to allow a long bolt to hold the tube(s) in place while I tacked them. I can then Tap the holes 5/16" UNC for screw plugs. The slots cut into the tube's bottom end will allow the stuff to flow in. So some more tack welding to fit the bottom plates to do (I'm not good at welding yet) and finish prep underside soon .

Amen to that....time and also space is at a premium, and I'm not officially retired yet!. No problem with the delay Alan, it's looking great. I have made the 'Long Gap Mistake' several times, but due to different problems. Catching up slowly though. Regards

Great work Norm and a very nice Attachment. Always fancied one, but I no longer have a use for one.

Looking forward to seeing the progress Alan !. I've got plenty of bite marks on my Lip from about a year of anticipation.

I use these people to obtain Friction Lining materials- if it helps you- -LINK- As for parts Manuals etc, if you look at Wristpin's post half way down PAGE 1 of this thread, you will see links to Dropbox files. Regards

What size of Ball is required?. I have an assortment of fractional inch sizes in Steel, Stainless and Phosphor Bronze, all precision finished. Size range from 1/16" to about 5/16" I think....some bigger. If I have what you need, I can help you.

Apologies for resurrecting an old thread but I noticed the high volume of views and that I failed to add a pic of the finished Mower sorry!. Here is one I meant to add just after it was finished (along with other Reprobate Refurbs)- It looks like I'll be able to pull it's covers off and give it a run soon, so I'll try a Vid a working session. And just to add more detail to the recorded history of this Mower's life, my friend Roly (son of original owner) recently sent me some pics he found of him using the Mower when he was about 9yrs back in the early sixties- Regards.

Nice work Darren. Like you, I've done the same with the surplus Villiers Midget Mk2 parts. Hoping to get back to doing things with it in the workshop soon.

Hello Riber3, welcome to the Forum. Firstly, you can test the Armature/Coil using the advice on the B&S site- -LINK- . As far as I'm aware, the HT Lead is fixed to the Coil and sold as a complete unit. Part number for the Armature on your engine is 298968 and are about UK£33.00. for a genuine replacement. Other things to check are the 'Kill' or 'Ignition Ground/Earth Wire' and setting. The linkage may not be isolating this when the Throttle Lever is moved to start position. Some people have converted to a Transitorised Electronic Ignition system to replace the old system, where I'm sure someone on here would assist you with what is needed. If you prefer to stay with the original system, then it is also possible the Condenser may be faulty. As for Manuals etc for your engine model, if you click on this link, it will take you directly to B&S site's manuals for it. - B&S 170700 . Hope this helps. Regards

Good progress Ian, like the Suds Pump Setup. As for the Motor, like Norm says, it's a very reliable brand, but pretty powerful for your needs. I just checked the Start and Run Current draw for it, which will be in the region of 33 Amps and 16 Amps respectively!!. If your supply Amperage is questionable i.e 20 Amp Ring Main, then you may well find it tripping out on start up?. For your Lathe size a 1.5 Hp motor would be more than adequate and more economical to run with minimal risk of tripping drawing roughly 20 Amp Start and 10 Amp Run. But I'm no expert and I'm sure there are some on here to tell you otherwise if I'm wrong. My Myford runs with a Single Phase 1 Hp GE Dixon Motor bough new in '86' which never struggles and merely sips the amps . Keep up the good progress, I'm still in watch mode at the Mo', but will start working on the practical soon hopefully. Regards

Got some info for you Norm if it helps you. It's 1977. fits- B-100, C-120/160 Auto and Manual. Blade Kit part #100200. Deck Spindle Belt Part #6738 - Section 4L, 86 inch. Drive Belt #102742 - Section A , 85 inch. Good luck with the refurb

Hello Ray, Just to say that I fully agree with the advice offered re Valves etc, as I'm an advocate of pulling the head off of any engine I get irrespective of condition and give the Top End a good going over. The result is very few issues with starting and running. Only other thing to mention is that the 'Sooty' appearance of the Exhaust emission is usually caused by Over Rich Fuel settings, it will also retard your chances of an easier start. The 'Book' says the INITIAL Needle Valve setting on a 5hp Pulsa Jet/Vacu Jet Carb is 1 1/2 turns from a gently closed position. It is further adjusted (finely) to obtain the best running setting. This is assuming the Needle Valve Tapered end is not damaged or worn. Check your Plug gap is 0.030". Lastly, even if your Carb setting is correct, if your Air Filter is tatty and clogged up, then your fuel mixture becomes Rich. Always worth replacing it and servicing it regularly. Let us know how you get on. Regards.

I must have missed this thread Chris. What a great little machine you sniffed out. Good to know you're not entirely devoted to Red Tractors. ...... That must be a Keeper. I presume you will be at a certain Garden Centre tomorrow?. I was hoping to get down, but had to change plans. Maybe meet up sometime. Regards Richard

Nice job Norm, wished I kept my old discs from the Transit. So you are on the lookout for some Lead for the extra weight then! . Are you going to Weld the Back Nuts onto the wheels ?.

Nice job on the Wheels Chris !. Let me guess, you found another use for the Bathroom Scales? . Weights are a handy addition and I note you also call it a C120....is it a '74' or '75'?. Look's good in Working Clothes

Sorry Mike, forgive me for being thick, but I'm not clear on what you have. I presume you have the Engine User Manual that shows you minor service jobs like carb settings and filter cleaning etc. An Engine Parts Manual which has exploded view images and Part Number Lists. I don't understand the last bit, you don't have a Manual for the complete machine, but you have a parts and exploded view for it?. Here is a link to a Hayter Manual for the machine courtesy of Wrispin in my old Thread, but I don't know if it covers all Ospreys/21s, as they were updated over the years- OSPREY/21 It would help if you can give us the full set of engine numbers so we can determine the age of it. There are several versions of Thottle/Governor, Choke and Ground Wire layouts. So your Choke is not working either!. To understand why, I/we really need a picture now, as you may be missing parts. Here is a 'Doctored' image of an Osprey (1972) that shows what should be there and where for you to compare. But note that not all Ospreys/Engines are the same- Need a picture of yours of the area within the Blue box. the important bit is the panel where the cable connects to. Behind that panel are all the springs, linkages, Governor Arm etc. If you think these are complicated, you want to see the complexity of the Service/Repair Manual images!. Yep!, I also played with RC Cars/Aircraft about 30 years ago. Once you get this issue sorted and maintained, the machine will work for you long time.

Yep !, understand that, and I wondered if it was like my experience of finding the Cartridge filter soaked in oil from someone tipping the machine onto it's side and flooding it from the sump/crankcase. Mike- While you are waiting for the new Air Filter (whichever one it is) , have you now got the Manuals?. Remove both High Speed and Idle Needles and inspect the fine tapers on each (use a magnifying glass). There should be no wear ridges on the taper faces. If there is, then they are allowing too much fuel through when they are set at the correct settings. I would presume you would have to compensate for this and reduce the specified setting for each needle?, as I always replace worn parts to make it easier to set things up. Read page 6 of the User Manual and install/set the needles and if they ARE worn or damaged, you will have to compensate by reducing the number of turns by a fraction (so they aren't open as much). Once you have done this, and the new Air Filter is fitted, it should start and run better. I assume the Fuel tank, line and filter are clean and the Carb Float valve is good?. Also check the choke (butterfly plate) returns to open position when it warms up.

Problem is Norm, we don't know?. There are 2 types of Filter- The one on the left in the Prts Manual image (foam type element part nbr 270528) is the alternative version. The one on the Right is what I am familiar with (Cartridge type prt nbr 393406) and seen on several example Machines and is not cheap. Until we know how old Mike's machine is (going by an Engine Model, Spec and Serial number, we all have to guess.

The picture helps a great deal. My eyes ain't so good, but I reckon that number reads 100902-0349-01. which is a 10 cubic inch model, about 4hp with a vertical Pulsa-Jet Carb fitted. As Reiver says, it's a 1975 build date (15th Oct). So as luck will have it, this Parts Manual available to download covers 100 models, so you can I.D any parts for your engine. Click or tap on the Link- LINK Briggs100 For the Operators Manual, this one covers several engine sizes, but the same procedures- LINK Briggs Man Regards

Have a look through this B & S tutorial first Colin ...... Muffler . If you are careful, it should come off without any damage. Something I use to separate reluctant joints etc is to take advantage of the qualities of the the metals involved. For example, if like several of my engines, yours is Aluminium, and the Muffler being Steel , you could get some heat into it by running so the Block and Muffler are warm/hot. Then aim to cool the muffler quickly while the heat stays in the engine. Ali expands at a greater rate than steel, so it will contribute to cracking the joint. To speed up the cooling, I use a Freezer Spray (Ambersil), which I also use for fitting bearings etc (other makes available). The freezer spray won't affect the job that the Penetrating Oil does, in fact it assists it by creating a tiny gap in the joint and lets the Oil flow into it better by capillary action. Regards.