Anglo Traction

Belated Birthday wishes Chris, hope you had a good day and a few bevvy's

That's a Bu*mer about the Deck Shell Norm. I may have one that size to play with in the near future to see if it's salvageable. Belongs to Roly (son of the original Yellow Mower owner). He's having my refurb'd 36" RD Deck as he is desperate for a serviceable replacement.

Started this several years ago. Had kept back an old Top Box unit from the old 1962 units when I ripped out the old kitchen of my workshop property.. Units were fixed to the walls with Cut Floor Brad nails !, so not easy to save undamaged. The Units were good quality wood with machined Dovetails - I managed to get 2 slices of about 6 inch sections to make 2 Storage boxes for my machine tools. I also had a good old sheet of 1/2" Mahogany Marine Ply for the bases and Lids, so I made them in the style of the old Georgian Military Campaign Chests. Bases are Glued and Screwed (18 in each) to carry at least 20 kgs of bits- The Lift Handles and Lever Latches were obtained in an old Ironmonger type shop in France, but I had to make the Brass Catch Plates set into the lids. Outside surfaces were dark stained and built up layers of Yacht Varnish roughly applied until the wood grain was filled, along with inside bases and Lids. Got more Brass corner plates to make, but more or less ready for the insides to be sectioned for the various tool layouts. Last few days I've been making a little stowage box for the recently obtained Dial Indicator. Measures 4 x 3 x 2. 3/4"- Also utilised an old Reserve Port Box with sliding lid for storage of my Surface Gauge (just long enough)-

The plastic part that you point to in the Steering Boss is likely to be the spigot that the original Centre Boss Cap fitted onto. Look's like it's been missing longtime what with the dust/dirt. So not essential, unless you plan to find one and fit in the future. Now that you have drilled out all or most of the Spirol Pin, a common procedure used to loosen the S/Wheel was to lock the steering linkage (not by the Tie Rods) and apply a hard alternating turning/twisting force to loosen the bond between the upper column and the S/Wheel Boss. I also take advantage of temperature differentials where I allowed the S/Wheel to warm up in the sun and then using a Freezing Spray, Chill the Column. It's important to use a proper graphite based Penetrating Oil, rather than something like WD40 . As for the Collar and sheared Bolt issue, just cut/grind it off, avoiding damage if poss. Replacements are available from here for example - 3/4"Shaft Collar Last resort - If you can weld, or know someone- if you still can't get the S/Wheel off (while still in the Tractor), cut the Upper steering Column through at the middle point of your first Topic picture (having marked it above and below so it can be realigned). You can then work on separating the S/Wheel at the Bench as Nigel suggested. All that's needed to repair the column is a piece of 3/4" bore thick (3 mm) walled Steel Tube about 2.1/2" (50-60 mm) long pressed onto the cut Column ends after lining up the marks to act as a strengthening sleeve and welded up. You can also pin it if required. It won't affect installation or operation. The tube must be a good fit and not loose. One thing to note is that not all Wheel Horse Upper Steering Columns are the same length, should you have to find a replacement, shorter versions were fitted mid 60s-early 70s compared to longer ones fitted from about 73 onwards. This was to allow for higher (sprung) seat position, but they can be extended or shortened to fit if required. Keep at it.

Hi Norm, I think the previous owner made it and utilised the Chuck as a holding device. It allows for round rod etc to have facets/faces milled or holes drilled, so it can produce things like Hex head bolts, or flats/holes numbering 1,2,3,4,6,** and 12. Could also be used for grinding tools to specific angles, so several uses . **Edit- 8/9 removed from flat face option- not possible on this item. Good to hear they're being put to good use Alan. I wonder how much of this stuff goes to scrap because many have no use for them or no idea what they for!. It's Shed History really.

Ok, understand situ now. Searched my stock for 5/16" bearing balls, no luck, everything but. I need some as well to replace the detent balls for my W/Horse 8 speed rebuild. So I ordered 10. If you're in a hurry, then also look to obtain from here- 5/16" Bearing Ball . If you want to wait, I can send one or 2 on to you when they pitch up.

Came home the other week with a free box full of bits to sort out and to keep any of them I felt would be handy. Lot of work cleaning years of storage dirt and some rust to reveal many items never used and mostly very good serviceable condition. Top row- 4inch dia tin full of assorted sized steel round head rivets. Stainless precision ground reference Angle Plate. Bronze/Copper Gauze and below that is a superb 0-3/8" Jacobs Chuck with a strong detent wheel for up to 30 degree indexing at the other end in a precision ground steel body. The PS Stubbs files, Machine Reamers (H6/7 grade) are mostly unused. The Slocombe Bits (Centre Drills) are the retained good ones, I junked a lot of them. As for the 2 Tins in the centre they were completely blackened with age. I resisted opening them until I had carefully cleaned them to find the printed images underneath. The Meggezones one dates from the 1930s and contained finely ground HSS Lathe tools and Tool Blanks. The other tin has shakeproof, Single Coil, Double Coil Spring Washers and 1/8" Roll pins- Final challenge was to try and rescue a Plunger type Dial Indicator from around early 1950s made by British indicators Ltd. It's had a hard life and is quite heavy (plated Brass) It was a mess and took a long time to carefully clean and polish the Clear bezel lense as it was so badly scratched and opaque, I could not see the Dial. All very loose parts and a flickering needle. dismantled and adjusted as much as poss and reassembled to find it working smoothly, although the small hand needle is still out of sync with the Dial markings, but is irrelevant to my use as it counts the 4 main needle rotation limit (0.040"). It measures in 1/10,000 ths of an inch and I've since checked it against my Lathe dials, Digital readout on the Mill and the Victor Lever type D.I. , so it's as good as I'll ever need, real pleased as I needed one. Dial is 1 5/8" (41.3-ish mm) - Got to make a soft storage box for it now and reduce the slack in the Bezel rotation. Only too glad to give these bits a good home after knowing they once belonged to someone with similar interests.

Sorry Ray, I may have misunderstood. I didn't know you had ordered a Screw/Bolt for the Arm/Clamp, thought you were looking for one. Just needed clarity on the Clamp width, as I suspected yours was horizontal shaft engine. As for the measurement, 0.312" is near as damn it 5/16" (0.3125"), so it depends if your dial shows in 0.0005" graduations, but as you've ordered one, I'll cancel the search. Regards.

Can't remember if those Balls for the Starter ratchet are 5/16" or 1/4". I had 6 in mine and I think the person in this link also had 6?- -LINK- Maybe luck of the draw, or 1 got lost, or 1 too many ? . If you want another one, carefully measure one, let me know the size and I'll see if I have one. As for the Gov'nor Arm Clamp Bolt, I believe your Arm fits on a 1/4" diameter Governor Rod. Mine shown in the pic below is 3/16" (on an earlier 4hp model) and the Arm clamp width is 1/2"- It's a Horizontal Shaft Motor and the bolt is mushroom headed for clearance and a half nut to retain it. The bolt is 10 x 24 UNF . The one sitting on the mounting bolt is that size (aero grade) and long enough (3/4") to fit a 1/2" clamp width. Is this the size you need Ray, or must it be longer ?.

Best way is to get yourself a Laser Tacho, they are not expensive and mine gets much use around the workshop checking lathe spindle speeds etc. Checking/setting the Idle speed on a Kohler 12hp -

Needed to update this Topic for additions, plus it may help others. I obtained the Illustrated Parts List for this Chainsaw from the original owners who purchased it in March '72' in the UK. The IPLs (attached here) are dated 9/71, so the Saw is a very early model example- XXVModel25.pdf With the IPLs, I have been able to reproduce the Felling Spike which was an optional extra for this model. For now, I made one from old 1. 3/8" (35-ish mm) mild steel box section- Marked it out (scribed 'n' pen) rough first- Next thing to do was to heat it up to cherry red for a few minutes to take the stresses out of it, as it is ERW formed box. Cut it out and cleaned up, then added a few tweaks to shape it and fitted with some 1960s chrome 10 x 24 UNC Setscrews- I'll give this Spike a Case Hardening session, as I've ran out of 3/32" Gauge Plate and have to order some more to make a pukka hardened example from this pattern. Regards

Yep!, Magnesium it is. Don't wish to deviate too much from your original Topic, the spike is shown (numbered 53) on the IPL, but no reference in the parts list with a part # - I think to keep it all tidy, I could add the Parts List to the old original Topic I started on the Chainsaw in 2014 -LINK- along with the spike. Unsure about resurrecting old Topics. Regards

Nice collection Alain. If I may, a question or two. Do you store them with fuel in, or drained ?. I tend to drain mine and run to dry, as there is a tendency for the original Fuel Cap (Plastic male screw in type) has a tendency to expand. It may be because I use Aspen4 for mixing the Fuel/Oil, which is very pure. I will eventually get around to making a new one (discontinued) out of Brass or Alloy once I identify the Thread form. Regards.

Although I usually avoid cutting them until June, it looks like the better way to deal with them up there Norm. Very nice attachment to own . As for the face fungus, I joined the club last August when I became .............. a Pensioner . Wonder if they were Closed toed shoes when he started?.

Nice work on the repair George, sorry, Alain . Yeah, I would also have less trouble with names if they were replaced with numbers . I must get around to fabricating a 'Felling Spike' for my tiny '71' Beaird-Poulan XXV, now I have the Parts List illustration, as I need it for some cutting soon (optional extra then). The one on your Red Homelite 2000 auto looks meaty !.

Yep!, if it's recommended, then probably the best way to go. I don't know how old your machine/engine is, but B&S quoted the use of both types Res/non Resistor type Plugs, depending on application. This is according to the 1981 version of the workshop Manual. Modern engine versions in various categories are a different story (Vehicle, Non road, handheld etc), so it's good to see you checked the requirement and asked the question. Yep! Legislation has a lot to do with it and interference is another word for Ignition Noise. Many of us can remember the interference on our old 405 line Tellys when an Un-suppressed car went past the house!. At the end of the day, manufacturers specify a particular type and we ignore this at our own (possible) cost. We have to choose who we want to believe, either modern Vehicle engine manufacturers, or Spark Plug manufacturers as to what the (possible) causes of performance issues are from incorrect application- -NGK- Kohler Manual also specified Non and Resistor types (as at revision 1992), but also quoted 'RH' for all (then current) models, which may well be as a result of legislation.

Neat work Alain, like the colourDid you fix the damage on the other machine you posted on a while back? (Metal Shop, Magnesium Repair).

Spark Plugs with resistors are for reducing or eliminating 'ignition noise' and removing 'Peaks' in current which can have a detrimental affect on running. Should be used where specified. For example, using Non- resistor Plugs can cause erratic Idle, misfires at higher rpm, overrun (pre-ignition), abnormal combustion and power drop at certain speeds. It all depends on the application etc. Ignition noise affects electronics in the vicinity of the engine i.e transistorised electronic ignition, phones and other equipment. Make of Plug is personal choice and personally, I use both NGK and Champion and never (50 years) had any fail, but replace when felt necessary.

You are right to consider speeds Angus. I had checked that all out on my 36"RD for my own curiosity. Full engine speed (recommended) 3500 rpm, PTO pulley 4" dia, Mower Deck Driver pulley 4" dia , Driven 4" driving 14inch dia centre Blade = tip speed of 145.83 MPH (@ 3500rpm) Outer 12inch Blades with 3 inch Pulleys= (3500rpm x 1.25) tip speed of 156.25 mph @ 4375rpm. I fitted sealed Bearings rated at over 7500rpm continuous. So roughly a 20% increase or decrease in speed if a double 4inch/5inch Pulley is reversed.

I'm struggling to find a correct I.D. for that Deck Norm, been through most of the 70s onwards. The Model number you quoted back on page 1 refers to a 1977 Deck and with Double 'D' type Spindles with a Double Pulley with both Pulleys the same size (as per IPL screen shot I posted in Oct 17). The nearest style 42 SD Deck with small/large Double Pulley and Keyed/Locknut Spindles (except for the tensioner style) is this example from 1978- Note the orientation of the Double Pulley. The later 1980s Models seem to have the larger pulley on top!. So I've no idea what this deck was fitted to originally what with the odd Deck Hanger and the possibility that the Spindles may have been swapped out with different ones at some point. Or the Belgium Assy Plant 'Frankensteined' it to fit an oddball Tractor?. As you say, only option is trial and error set ups to find the best option.

Hi Norm, re the Belt length issue, it may also be that the main Drive (Centre) Pulley shown in your last (Monday) pic is upside down?. The original Pic at the start of the Thread shows the smaller pulley at the Top. The Spindle Drive Belt fits onto the lower larger of the double Pulley and the PTO-Deck drive Belt goes on the smaller upper Pulley. That should give you the longer/more slack length in the Belt and the correct Spindle RPM. Nearly there and ready to cut grass.

Links for you- http://www.oldlawnmowers.co.uk/ol-spares.php https://www.oldlawnmowerclub.co.uk/sites/default/files/opmanual/Ransomes Minor Mk6.pdf

Looking good Ewan !. perhaps a piece of a fleece will go well on that cold iron seat .

Hello Ray, It's likely the Clutch is slipping and needs cleaning. Usually due to oil getting on the Shoe faces. The rotation Arrow on the Thin Nut depicts both the rotation of the Engine/Shaft and the direction to undo the nut (left hand thread). To undo it, it is best to remove the Pullstart mechanism on the other side to expose the Flywheel to find a point where you can 'Lock' the rotation with a short piece of wood between Flywheel and Saw Body (don't use the Fins). Edit- you may be able to use the Flywheel nut to oppose the Undo action of the Clutch. Reverse process for reassembly where when done, the engine will run against the nut and tighten it also.

Hi Ron, Welcome. I have no idea of an alternative Carb that will fit. Your Carb should(?) look like the one in this -LINK- You could check out the Home page of the Link and search it for answers and/or join their Forum to see if anyone can help you with an alternative. Can you give me an idea of the Outer diameter, Height and Centre hole dia of the Float, as it is possible one could be made.