Anglo Traction

They certainly have done a superb job on them. Noticed the White Mini Van must be an ongoing project. Missing Wipers...Very nice though. My favourite would be what look's like an MG TA ( Red) 2nd pic of 2nd batch. Nice Moggy Van by the way Andrew .

Yep!, Reckon that is another bodge to eliminate chain slack. May have fitted the half link in situ in consideration to the points mentioned in my PM regarding the Axle movement restrictions with Keyway and Circlip. Other more experienced Members familiar with this model may offer more accurate/beneficial advice than I, but my opinion of the amount of slack in the chain is not of great significance. If you refer to the earlier image of 'Spot the Removable Link'. that amount of slack is not an issue in a correctly installed set up. This is because there should be a large 'O' ring fitted around the Chain. My interpretation of the fitting of it is- - to provide a retaining effect which prevents chain slap against the inside of the Cover Plate - acts as a grease retainer - maintains pressure to ensure chain engages teeth on the sprockets efficiently. My bet is these are missing on both of your machines. If you can carefully measure the outer circumference of the chain/sprockets and post it on here please. At this point, I am not sure of the availability of spare parts are for these, so here is a link for you to make enquiries about any parts we are discussing- PARTS Replacing bronze bushings should not be a problem, as most imperial sizes are still available. Replacing the Clutch friction material as mentioned in PM- The thickness was about 5-6mm Woven (probably 1/4" when new). Not sure if you're buying sheet to cut your own, or having Autoandindustrial to precut for you?. I've shifted these images to this thread, rather than put links in to make it easier. If you're cutting your own, a junior hacksaw will work and lining is safe with no asbestos. The diameter of the linings are slightly larger than the diameter of the plates either side to ensure even plate wear- You should be able to assess measurements from this pic for the inner diameter cutout by comparison with your own plates. Also gives an idea of the important clearance of the friction lining edge and the proximity of the chain. No grease must be allowed near the lining- Hope this helps and keep at it.

Great pics, thanks. Noticed there is also a trend of creating 105E Pickups (Anglias). White Minivan reminds me of my first car.

Yes Norm, on Thurs 5th Jul, I believe that was the last known one and of the greatest magnitude. Unusual around here, At least the Wine n Spirit store is intact

I wondered why I had found my Fluorescent garage/workshop light had parted company with the ceiling and hanging on the cable ties when I got back from shopping last Thursday?. Also found 2 empty cans had fallen off the shelf edge. The light was well fitted only recently. Today, I was told we had had an Earth Tremor again !. Yeah right I thought,...... until I was advised to check the BBC news website - Surrey Shaker .

It's a bodge Ray. Have a look through this Thread for pics of what it should look like OSPREY. I've sent you a copy of the Manual which should cover it (via PM) As for the link in the chain, I think I see it arrowed here - Open end is usually on the trailing side of rotation . You'll probably need to obtain and bond new friction pads onto the Toothed Clutch Plate. A link to the people I've used in the past if it helps- Friction . Bonding them well requires scrupulous cleaning and a good bonding resin like Araldite Original ( NOT the 5 min stuff). I'm sure Wristpin, Nigel and others will offer more experienced options and advice on that and the machine. Edit in RED

That's good news !. Enjoy the new lease of energy. You've got me worried now with what I assume are age related symptoms. An appointment with my Quack is probably overdue after over 5 years since. Just got to find my way through all the 'Hoops' to get to see them.

Hello Dave, Early 60s should have read 1966, my mistake, so should have been 'Mid 60s'. Info from -HERE- Which you are free to deem correct or incorrect. I mentioned Chrome Bores as an example of allowable benefit for increasing the Fuel to Oil ratio in my Saw from the original Maker's recommendation. Which was explained to me by the owner of the Site in the link here (I was informed it was acceptable for me to use a Semi Synthetic Oil in my engine if I wish without harm). Any reference to O & R Engine's design similarities and subsequently legitimising Ratio changes was not intended. The clarity you've provided on spec of various O&R Engines, I'm sure will be of benefit to owners/users. I'm in full agreement with you on the Old Oil for Old Engines. Interesting point of the Alkylate issue.

Hi, I'm no expert with these engines, but I checked the records for an O & R 1 Hp Chainsaw model from early 1960s and it lists ratio as 16-1. Now I have had discussions with the Chainsaw Website owner in the past and he reckons that if you have an engine that has a Chromed bore, then that Petrol/Gas ratio can be increased safely to 25-1. My 72 Beaird-Poulan Chainsaw has a Chromed Bore and I use that ratio, as well as classic 40wt Mineral Oil (to avoid any issues with synthetic additives affecting the old Oil Seals). I also find that 25-1 is mentioned for these O & R engines on U-tube examples. As for a suitable Oil available in your Country, I found this example is basic Mineral with no Additives- OIL API-SA grade is devoid of Additives listed here- I'm sure there will be a fellow expert Countryman along at some stage to offer guidance, as I'm on the other side of the Pond. Hope this helps

Dial Indicator now lives in it's padded box-

Can't rush a work of Art Norm . He is probably been beavering away since the workshop warmed up.

Nice job with those mean looking Blades . Presume you are Grubbing out the area below the trees for the purpose of surface root reduction?.

I reckon Alain is right, the WH Cultivator model is an example and is/was in 2 parts, Mid Mounted and Rear Mounted. The rear part is this- But it only had 4 Standards and Shovels on the Rear and 3 on the Mid Section and both sections are raised using the Lift Lever. Should be no reason for your example to perform ok, but may need extending to prevent contact with the rear wheels on the turn. Edit- Model # is 7-1723 and requires either a Slot Hitch (pictured) or a Clevis Hitch. Seems each WH attachment was specific to a duty and not a unit with various fittings. Other makers Attachments were offered by WH as options though.

May be for making corrugated Pipe Joints?. It is missing 1 roll which should reside in the long slots (one with a cap on, other open). required to form it circular to various sizes. A possible explanation/description -HERE- Nice find Chris, and you can make the 3rd Roll on your new-to-you Lathe !! .........or if you want to shift it on I may be interested ?.

Belated Birthday wishes Chris, hope you had a good day and a few bevvy's

That's a Bu*mer about the Deck Shell Norm. I may have one that size to play with in the near future to see if it's salvageable. Belongs to Roly (son of the original Yellow Mower owner). He's having my refurb'd 36" RD Deck as he is desperate for a serviceable replacement.

Started this several years ago. Had kept back an old Top Box unit from the old 1962 units when I ripped out the old kitchen of my workshop property.. Units were fixed to the walls with Cut Floor Brad nails !, so not easy to save undamaged. The Units were good quality wood with machined Dovetails - I managed to get 2 slices of about 6 inch sections to make 2 Storage boxes for my machine tools. I also had a good old sheet of 1/2" Mahogany Marine Ply for the bases and Lids, so I made them in the style of the old Georgian Military Campaign Chests. Bases are Glued and Screwed (18 in each) to carry at least 20 kgs of bits- The Lift Handles and Lever Latches were obtained in an old Ironmonger type shop in France, but I had to make the Brass Catch Plates set into the lids. Outside surfaces were dark stained and built up layers of Yacht Varnish roughly applied until the wood grain was filled, along with inside bases and Lids. Got more Brass corner plates to make, but more or less ready for the insides to be sectioned for the various tool layouts. Last few days I've been making a little stowage box for the recently obtained Dial Indicator. Measures 4 x 3 x 2. 3/4"- Also utilised an old Reserve Port Box with sliding lid for storage of my Surface Gauge (just long enough)-

The plastic part that you point to in the Steering Boss is likely to be the spigot that the original Centre Boss Cap fitted onto. Look's like it's been missing longtime what with the dust/dirt. So not essential, unless you plan to find one and fit in the future. Now that you have drilled out all or most of the Spirol Pin, a common procedure used to loosen the S/Wheel was to lock the steering linkage (not by the Tie Rods) and apply a hard alternating turning/twisting force to loosen the bond between the upper column and the S/Wheel Boss. I also take advantage of temperature differentials where I allowed the S/Wheel to warm up in the sun and then using a Freezing Spray, Chill the Column. It's important to use a proper graphite based Penetrating Oil, rather than something like WD40 . As for the Collar and sheared Bolt issue, just cut/grind it off, avoiding damage if poss. Replacements are available from here for example - 3/4"Shaft Collar Last resort - If you can weld, or know someone- if you still can't get the S/Wheel off (while still in the Tractor), cut the Upper steering Column through at the middle point of your first Topic picture (having marked it above and below so it can be realigned). You can then work on separating the S/Wheel at the Bench as Nigel suggested. All that's needed to repair the column is a piece of 3/4" bore thick (3 mm) walled Steel Tube about 2.1/2" (50-60 mm) long pressed onto the cut Column ends after lining up the marks to act as a strengthening sleeve and welded up. You can also pin it if required. It won't affect installation or operation. The tube must be a good fit and not loose. One thing to note is that not all Wheel Horse Upper Steering Columns are the same length, should you have to find a replacement, shorter versions were fitted mid 60s-early 70s compared to longer ones fitted from about 73 onwards. This was to allow for higher (sprung) seat position, but they can be extended or shortened to fit if required. Keep at it.

Hi Norm, I think the previous owner made it and utilised the Chuck as a holding device. It allows for round rod etc to have facets/faces milled or holes drilled, so it can produce things like Hex head bolts, or flats/holes numbering 1,2,3,4,6,** and 12. Could also be used for grinding tools to specific angles, so several uses . **Edit- 8/9 removed from flat face option- not possible on this item. Good to hear they're being put to good use Alan. I wonder how much of this stuff goes to scrap because many have no use for them or no idea what they for!. It's Shed History really.

Ok, understand situ now. Searched my stock for 5/16" bearing balls, no luck, everything but. I need some as well to replace the detent balls for my W/Horse 8 speed rebuild. So I ordered 10. If you're in a hurry, then also look to obtain from here- 5/16" Bearing Ball . If you want to wait, I can send one or 2 on to you when they pitch up.

Came home the other week with a free box full of bits to sort out and to keep any of them I felt would be handy. Lot of work cleaning years of storage dirt and some rust to reveal many items never used and mostly very good serviceable condition. Top row- 4inch dia tin full of assorted sized steel round head rivets. Stainless precision ground reference Angle Plate. Bronze/Copper Gauze and below that is a superb 0-3/8" Jacobs Chuck with a strong detent wheel for up to 30 degree indexing at the other end in a precision ground steel body. The PS Stubbs files, Machine Reamers (H6/7 grade) are mostly unused. The Slocombe Bits (Centre Drills) are the retained good ones, I junked a lot of them. As for the 2 Tins in the centre they were completely blackened with age. I resisted opening them until I had carefully cleaned them to find the printed images underneath. The Meggezones one dates from the 1930s and contained finely ground HSS Lathe tools and Tool Blanks. The other tin has shakeproof, Single Coil, Double Coil Spring Washers and 1/8" Roll pins- Final challenge was to try and rescue a Plunger type Dial Indicator from around early 1950s made by British indicators Ltd. It's had a hard life and is quite heavy (plated Brass) It was a mess and took a long time to carefully clean and polish the Clear bezel lense as it was so badly scratched and opaque, I could not see the Dial. All very loose parts and a flickering needle. dismantled and adjusted as much as poss and reassembled to find it working smoothly, although the small hand needle is still out of sync with the Dial markings, but is irrelevant to my use as it counts the 4 main needle rotation limit (0.040"). It measures in 1/10,000 ths of an inch and I've since checked it against my Lathe dials, Digital readout on the Mill and the Victor Lever type D.I. , so it's as good as I'll ever need, real pleased as I needed one. Dial is 1 5/8" (41.3-ish mm) - Got to make a soft storage box for it now and reduce the slack in the Bezel rotation. Only too glad to give these bits a good home after knowing they once belonged to someone with similar interests.

Sorry Ray, I may have misunderstood. I didn't know you had ordered a Screw/Bolt for the Arm/Clamp, thought you were looking for one. Just needed clarity on the Clamp width, as I suspected yours was horizontal shaft engine. As for the measurement, 0.312" is near as damn it 5/16" (0.3125"), so it depends if your dial shows in 0.0005" graduations, but as you've ordered one, I'll cancel the search. Regards.

Can't remember if those Balls for the Starter ratchet are 5/16" or 1/4". I had 6 in mine and I think the person in this link also had 6?- -LINK- Maybe luck of the draw, or 1 got lost, or 1 too many ? . If you want another one, carefully measure one, let me know the size and I'll see if I have one. As for the Gov'nor Arm Clamp Bolt, I believe your Arm fits on a 1/4" diameter Governor Rod. Mine shown in the pic below is 3/16" (on an earlier 4hp model) and the Arm clamp width is 1/2"- It's a Horizontal Shaft Motor and the bolt is mushroom headed for clearance and a half nut to retain it. The bolt is 10 x 24 UNF . The one sitting on the mounting bolt is that size (aero grade) and long enough (3/4") to fit a 1/2" clamp width. Is this the size you need Ray, or must it be longer ?.

Best way is to get yourself a Laser Tacho, they are not expensive and mine gets much use around the workshop checking lathe spindle speeds etc. Checking/setting the Idle speed on a Kohler 12hp -

Needed to update this Topic for additions, plus it may help others. I obtained the Illustrated Parts List for this Chainsaw from the original owners who purchased it in March '72' in the UK. The IPLs (attached here) are dated 9/71, so the Saw is a very early model example- XXVModel25.pdf With the IPLs, I have been able to reproduce the Felling Spike which was an optional extra for this model. For now, I made one from old 1. 3/8" (35-ish mm) mild steel box section- Marked it out (scribed 'n' pen) rough first- Next thing to do was to heat it up to cherry red for a few minutes to take the stresses out of it, as it is ERW formed box. Cut it out and cleaned up, then added a few tweaks to shape it and fitted with some 1960s chrome 10 x 24 UNC Setscrews- I'll give this Spike a Case Hardening session, as I've ran out of 3/32" Gauge Plate and have to order some more to make a pukka hardened example from this pattern. Regards