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Anglo Traction

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Everything posted by Anglo Traction
 
 
  1. Maybe an excuse to build another
  2. Yep!,there should be a 1 at the start, otherwise correct. Your engine is a replacement and the date is 1984. March 1st . Not a great many changes from the original engine spec. The Engine Manuals for it are (hopefully) available from this LINK . Machine look's in very good condition.
  3. Yep!. As the engine is not original to WH Spec, you will probably find the Dip Stick attached to the end of a Blanking Plug (square Head or Hex Socket) located beside the Cylinder fins on top of the Crankcase, or at the base (front) of the Oil Pan (if it is, it will be a short stubby one). The original was set in a long tube at the back next to the Starter motor. Edit:- When you find it, you will probably need to how to measure correctly. Rest the screw-in plug on the edge of the Fill hole to read the level.
  4. Hello Rod, Welcome. Firstly, in my opinion you posted this subject in the correct Forum (other Garden Machines), as the Osprey is self-powered and not manually pushed or pulled. Sounds like the HT coil could be breaking down when it warms up. Chassis number reveals it is from around mid/late 70s. Suggest you have a look at a Thread I posted in this section a while back covering the same model. You will find it near the bottom of the page when you first view the 'Other Garden Machines' Section. A couple of good links to manuals by Wristpin in post nbr 13. If you have the original Engine still fitted, it should have numbers stamped on it like- 170702-5638-01 7******** (last block is the serial number incls year/date of manufacture). Illustrated Parts Manual for the engine are still available from Briggs and Stratton and parts are still freely available. Any help needed, just ask and pictures are always helpful if you can post 'em up.
  5. No problem with the info. There are lots of Members in the Home Counties. It is a 1973 10hp 8 speed as they are known in the U.S. (Also No Name Tractors). Model number will be 1-0360 (Belgium continued to call them Raiders). Here's the Link to Toro Parts Diagram for it -LINK- The serial number also points to 1973-ish and your Tractor was assembled at the European WH works in Belgium with parts shipped from the U.S. Your seat and Steering Wheel were made in Britain and also fitted at the Belgium factory. Around that time, they used 2 types of PTO Clutch Linkage and either 1 or 2 Pedals, as surplus parts were still being shipped from the U.S that were no longer fitted to U.S Models. Flat top Gear Knobs look post 1974. Earlier ones were Spherical. There wasn't an 'H' Gear Lever Plate fitted on many 'C' Series before late '73' in Europe. Look's in fairly good condition. Way better than I get .
  6. Hello John, Welcome. Wheel Horse started using C-101 on their 10hp Model from 1978 with a Model Number of 81-10k801. So depending on which year yours is, will depend on what Manuals you will need. Once you know your model number (on a small black Plate under left side of dash usually) and then the year, you can search for them on the WH sister site here- -Redsquare- Many of us here are also members on that Forum. As you have a different sized Engine fitted, you will need to note the Model, Spec and Serial number (if it is a Kohler) and search this site link- -Kohler- Any problems, come back with the details required above and we'll see if we can fit you up with what you need. If you have any pics you can post, we like pIcs. Regards
  7. As Norm says, handy piece of gear. Look's like a Techy H60 and may have been Electric start or they used a surplus Shroud for a Pull Start. The H60 I did had to have new points/Condenser and Air Gap reset after a clean before I could get a spark. It was laid up for over 25 years. Ignition Timing is a challenge, being 0.080" BTC, but then you probably know that already. Look's in good general condition though for the price
  8. Nice old Machine, always fancied getting hold of one. As for the smoke, it maybe just that the Breather needs a good clean. You may already be aware, but many engine types use a Reed Valve and filter trap system inside the Breather unit and run with a partial vacuum in the Crankcase. It may be just dirty, or it could be assembled/fitted incorrectly?. I would check all these first (cheapest) Worse case is as you may suspect. Rings, Bore or Valve Guides are getting tired. Not serious yet if only a haze. I'd change the Oil regularly after getting the sludge out of the Sump/Oil Pan and use a bit of the old Redex in the fuel and see if it improves (I've still got about 3/4ltr if you need some.....you're not far away . If it had been standing for a long time before you acquired it, the rings may still be sticking?.
  9. What was/is the reason to break up the Floor Mark?. The Old Saxon Trailers are good quality. I need to rescue one soon and find some space for it. Same good condition as yours.
  10. Hello Mike, Welcome. I don't know the age of your Osprey, but here is a link to the B &S Manual site and a User Manual that covers 170702 versions (1980) and others- Briggs .
  11. Quite a few versions around Chris. Mine is about 4 years old now. Still available and now with 15metres of cable. Usual disclaimer, but here is a -LINK- to an example. I'm sure you're familiar with the Kohlers in general. Great to work on and parts available. I had no option for the level of work I had to do on this one, as I was sold a Dud- . It was well worth the time and money and the re-bore, re-grind was only £67 at the time and it was a quality job/service. Finished the jobs on this engine now. Drain/Priming additions saved a lot of time cranking etc and fired up in a few seconds of cranking Planning a few (bolt-on) mods to the Clutch system on both Tractors next-
  12. Very tidy job on the Muffler. Of course you do realise that putting a new Chrome Shield on it will most likely force you to consider refurbishing the Whole Tractor !
  13. Very nice wheels. Lots of potential there. I also thought they may have been off of a Scooter of some kind. Thought they may have come from a Maicoletta, as my friend had one about 45 years ago. I think the wheels were bigger though?.
  14. Happy Birthday Norm. Hope the Sun shines for you today.Enjoy !.
  15. Here is the Illustrated Parts List for your Engine- Briggs 82902.pdf You can now identify the parts you need and search using the part numbers. Edit- date for your engine is 2nd Mar 1965 Regards
  16. Hi, Can you check that number again and post the full Model, Spec and Serial numbers. I can't find a record of it. The 6 = cubic capacity in Cu Inches. Your 5 = a Design number. Your 9 is the Carb Type (9 is a Vertical Pulsa Jet). 0 = Plain Bearings. 2 = Rewind Starter. It is possible the number should read 60502. The important number in your case is the 5, as it is a different Carb (Vertical Vacu Jet). If you can post a good clear Picture of the Carb here as well, we can establish the correct original Carb you have and that is not a replacement. Will then be able to provide a correct part number for the part(s) you need.
  17. Hi Rex, Excellent work there with the repairs and progress. Now that we can see it, I'm going to stick my neck out here and say that the Tank Support Plate has had the end chopped off . It should extend past the side plates by 3-4 inches. I suspect it has been trimmed to accommodate an engine that had a Fuel Tank bolted to the engine sometime in the past. Also the elongated holes in the Frame are a giveaway. It needs either extending again and modifying before you can fit a Tank on it, or look for one from a 70-75 Model (will fit straight on and have the correctly located holes etc).
  18. Looking forward to more pics when you can Gareth. Outstanding job on saving that one....... Have you 'Fired' it up yet?.
  19. Just started with the same Pump and Fuel system changes on the '74' C-120. It's also nearly up to 5 hours running since I fully rebuilt the Re-bored engine with the re-ground Crank. Wanted to check for the amount of cast iron dust in the sump while I drained the oil, so I 'Jacked up' the front end and got most of the oil out. I then put a blast of air down through the Pump aperture to get most of the residue to the back of the Sump/Pan, followed by a small amount of clean oil and left to drain again. Just out of curiosity, I thought I'd have a look inside to check how clean it was with my handy 'Scope on a Rope'- All looked fine and took a screen shot of the Con Rod end, Cap/bolt and the Oil Way for the Crank journal . Minimum focusing distance is about 8 cm- Not the best image copy, but a handy piece of cheap gear. Just the Drain Tap to fit and she's good to go for hard run.
  20. Sounds like the Bendix Gear is not sliding out against the spring tension to engage . The splines probably need a clean and a small amount of Teflon Dry Lube or similar.
  21. Nice project you have acquired there!. Seen these before somewhere. I believe your model is a YR60?. Is the Wisconsin 2 cylinder and hydrostatic drive?. Would like to get my hands on a 'Wiso' one day.
  22. Will be there Saturday first thing. Weather forecast is good so far :- 23 deg C, Mainly Sunny, Winds light from the South. Possible rain late evening/over night. Clearing by Sunday AM. Anything is better than the 'Soggy September' last year and the subsequent cancellation of it.
  23. Just after I posted this, my Letterbox rattled and my 1&1/8"AF 'King Dick' Ex Army Spanner dropped into my 'Catch Basket'. Blades n Spindles here we go!.
  24. I don't sell very much, but when I do, I always add as much info as possible (including Shipping weight). This is because like M.M.M Chris says, I also know people out there require items to use or adapt for other purposes. I do just that myself. I experienced my first non arrival of an item this earlier week, but received a full refund. I promptly searched, found and ordered a replacement, cost me more and I asked the buyer if he would send it 'Signed for' 2nd Class, charging me the extra cost to be more sure of delivery. He would only send it 2nd class !, so I'm hoping it will turn up, as I need to progress with the Mower Deck. A lot of items I purchase from U.S. , I will always look for sellers offering the Global Shipping Programme. It has many benefits. I often find parts listed with an erroneous description or info, which, if you know what you're looking for, will likely be a bargain purchase, as many people ignore/don't notice it.
  25. Anybody visiting or exhibiting this year?........... Hoping to get down for one of the days.
 
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