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Thanks mate, all I need to do now is find a better way of mounting it.. They are.. Just a very very pale shade An update from inside the workshop.... The bench WN was on ended up looking like this yesterday!! After the struggle of lifting her off the bench last time we decided the easiest thing to do this time was to slide drag the bench to the doorway and roll her down some ramps,,, To be fair on the bench it has put up with a lot of punishment for the past er... many years including the weight of the 6x6 being built on it.. The bench will be rebuilt a lot stronger and on castor wheels I'm very happy to report that all the changes that have happened on WN have been worth it.. Thanks to the new higher fuel outlet on the tank she starts up straight away with no hassles or queasy-start.. A little choke, no throttle push the starter button and she roars into life.. Today I realized that I was no longer thinking about the brakes when using then, I guess the relocated front master cylinder is doing it's job now And now the big one.. Steering.. Gone is the twitchyness that was there under hard throttle while turning.. There is even a fair amount of self centering going on.. Oh, and the steering is so much lighter than what it was The only downside was the amount of wheel turning needed to steer.. It was about 1/2 a turn lock to lock, the A35 steering box made that 2.2 turns lock to lock!! This was sorted today by drilling and extra hole in the drop link a bit closer to the wheel and giving the connecting rod a bend so it didn't hit the exhaust or anywhere else.. The lock is now 1.5 turns lock to lock which feels right.. In fact it now has so much lock that the front brake calipers hit the front axle on full lock, so I need to make a couple of simple stoppers to stop that happening.. The fender pan is as done as it's going to get before the shows, it still needs loads more work but that can wait until I get her ready for final paint. I have also installed a plug under the dash.. Nope, it's not for plugging in headphones It is in fact wired into the bikes stop/run circuit. The plan is to grind out some of the plastic bit that separates the positive and negative and weld both bits together. The idea being when it's plugged in to the stop/run circuit will be in run mode.. So if the plug is attached to the driver and the driver get thrown off for some reason, the plug get pulled and the engine stops I'm now so tired I can hardly type without having to correct a smelling mistake on every other turd, so it's just as well I'm on the last three photo's.. Here's WN out in the wild yesterday.

The idea being when it's plugged in to the stop/run circuit will be in run mode.. So if the plug is attached to the driver and the driver get thrown off for some reason, the plug get pulled and the engine stops Ian, I think you meant to say that if the driver SELF EJECTS in SHEAR TERROR via his inbuilt REAR END propulsion system, then the plug gets pulled stopping the engine.

Cleaned sign up, looks good although bird crap has stained it.

i was at work today minding my own buisness when an old boy came in to the shop and said would we be able to dispose of this for him! ive never seen one in green with chrome handles and with its clamshell grassbox very pleased i am

next weekend sedlescome, sussex-kent border

they would be welcome down here gareth at ruralpastimes

Thankyou Richard and Meadowfield - another hurdle overcome!

As Richard says, they are far from precision! I would just give them a good clean and pack them with grease. We've had a lot more hours than I imagined from ours after cleaning... Even now they are a little rough, but functional!

Hello Ray, The standard bearings for the front wheels have only one Shield on the outside/Flanged side, so that the inside is greased via the nipple (Zerk). Replacement bearings can have double shields, but do not require greasing via the nipple for their life. You can carefully remove and dispose of the Inner Shield of the 'Double Shielded' bearings and clean out, re pack with grease if you wish. You can then grease later via the Nipple (Zerk). The bearings themselves are not best quality (i.e. precision ground) and are light/medium duty pressed/folded metal type. I purchased mine from the U.S. some time ago at a reasonable price. If you need to buy replacements/spares, have a good look around Auction Sites and Google search for best price/quality. The good ones for example are made by Heim in U.S., but I couldn't find them at the time. Part numbers are Toro 110513 or 251210. 3/4" bore x 1.3/8" flanged single outer (or double) Shield. I have a couple of (tired) used ones if you get real desperate.