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Well I think I've finally found the problem. Swapped the condenser over from the C-125. Now running as it should, full revs and no problem. I've done this before with no change in the bad running. The 81's condenser I put on the 125, expecting that to start playing up. It didn't. So I'm assuming the condenser was not earthing properly, even though the securing bolt was fully tight. I also tweaked the carbs and both have been given runs up the lane and all is now well.

I now have the main body sanded,acid treated and spray putty primer coated ready for a skim of filler to take out the rust pits. I am steadily working my way through all the bolt on bits which have been through the electrolysis tank, shot blasted, acid treated and then primed. Because 137 is such an important machine I am trying to restore it to as it left the factory 80 years ago. using a spectograph i have analysed the original paint colours and ordered some trial aerosols to match the colour as near as i can, they arrived today so i had to have a bit test. I have chosen Ruby red and a turquoise fore the blue, both in satin finish as I believe the original would not have been a high gloss finish. At last the load rollers and idler wheels are finished. The idler rollers were worn undersize so these were skimmed true in a big lathe and then 1/2 " square bar rolled to give 181/2" dia od. which was then brazed on to the skimmed wheels. For the drive rollers, 8" dia x 1/2" thick slices of cast bar were purchased, the original roller rims were turned down to a common size of 7.25 " The cast slices were then bored out in the centre to an interference fit and sweated on to the original wheel located with rawl pins and then brazed. All in all good progress but still a load of blasting and filling to do before re assembly.

Hi all a little bit more progress done today I've decide to put galv sheets on the rear tipper body here is what I've done so far

good luck hope they both run lovely for you im washing my hands and packing up for the weekend its the mrs birthday Tuesday so we going on our boat for the weekend HAVE A GOOD WEEKEND LADS THANKYOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP THIS WEEK IM VERY GRATEFULL :bow:

I suppose asking whether or not you have fresh gas would be silly, so I'll ask if you have checked the condenser/coil

Hi all oh well I've done it again as the turf Trac is nearing completion I've got my next project lined up which I bought on that auction site it's come with a blown Mitsubishi engine so I've decided to put a kubota engine in , but this isn't gonna be no straight swap,everything has to be changed to make it fit and within havin a manual gear box everything needs to be just right for the clutch here's what I've got

Interesting link about scrap cars, i like to see the cars being driven in these old films.

I think there's quite a few folks that don't know the history of our counties either And I've short arms and short legs if you don't mind...

Sorry James I must have missed this post in the past, looks like a great project mate

Ok. Had a look at the connections on my C-81. All ok. Now although I have swapped carbs, coils, condensers in the past, I decided to swap over the condensers from C-125 to C-81. Fired up the 81 and it revs like a good 'un. No spitting and dying now. All seems ok. Put the 81's condenser onto the 125, fired up and expected the high revs problem to be transferred to the 125. Err! No! High revs ok. This proved, I hope, that the condensers are ok. So my conclusion is that the condenser on the 81 was not earthing properly. I'll give them both a run out later and see how things go.

the fireing just before tdc is right

For all matters K series, Mike Hitchins www.guypartsandservice.co.uk

might be a silly question, but have you got the condenser hooked up to the wrong terminal perhaps? i've had my coil and condenser of when i painted the engine then hooked it up again but got the condenser on the wrong terminal. it would idle pretty damn good but as soon as you touched the throttle pop fart blurgh

I don't think anyone thinks your being critical, Alain. A lot of good info in what you've said. Thanks.

dont know anything a bout these engines but is the keyway ok?

I can't help but want to drive and use ths machine, I'm going over to a thicket to knock down brush and sawgrass.

I had my first visit to the workshop yesterday.. I didn't get anything much done but a few parcels had turned up.. New Landrover coils.. Not bad at just over £7 a pop. And this bag of electrical bits... More about the bits when I start installing them

A new piston and rings in a untouched cylinder is a problem. Your engine is in excess of 30 years old, the wear on the engine was not only to the piston and rings, but more so to the rings and cylinder wall. The movement of the piston in the cylinder creates an out of round cylinder in the course of many years of use. It gets both out of round and tapers, by installing new rings you do slightly improve or actually reduces this clearance between the rings and cylinder, therefore increasing compression, but the new rings are round and the cylinder is not. In many cases installing new rings will snap the connecting rod as the increased pressure on the old rod and pin are substantially increased. That said, I would surmise that if your engine still contains the balance gears and was not rebuilt to standard, it is time to invest in doing so. The Kohler k341 is not as abundant as the k321 or k301 and if you want to keep it it around specific steps must be undertaken now that will prevent catastrophe in the future. Previous owners may have been penny wise, but pound foolish or relied on the advice of someone with no horse in the race, but if you find yourself in neither position, it is up to you how to proceed from here. I would start by realizing the engine was not brought to standards when worked on in the past and rectify that by doing so now. When you have the engine out, start by micing the cylinder wall and go from there. Remember measurements must be taken at the top, middle, and bottom of the cylinder. BTW, advice like this is why I have had problems on other forums, I say things some people would rather not hear. I hope you you hear that I have only good wishes for you and your engine. Good luck

Richard is right it's the acr kicking in. Here's the mechanism on mine

Suspect that is the ACR (Auto Compression Release)?, it occurs when the Piston is approx 1/3 up the compression/firing stroke travel. It should lift the Exhaust Valve between 0.030" and 0.042" briefly to reduce the start up load on the Starter Motor and gear teeth. The ACR cuts out when the engine reaches about 600rpm.

you learn something every day!!!! so my rebuilt magnum doesn't necessarily blow oil out of the dipstick any more but there's a lot of air movement. It's been rebuilt with new piston and rings - shame the engine builder thought he could get away with not regrinding the crank pin

I may not be the best to offer advice, as I tend to do things in a meticulous manor when it comes to engines. Depending on whether you wish to have a good condition running K341 or just run it into the ground with the minimal of expense (I suspect the former), the best way to proceed is to pull the Cylinder Head (it may have never been off and totally coked up). You will visibly learn all that may be wrong with it in the 'Top End' and Cylinder and the cost may only be a few hours work and a New Head Gasket. I don't know your Skill/Experience levels, but unless the Valves/Rings/Carb wear condition is ok, you can play around forever trying to get an Engine to run correctly/properly. Certainly sounds like your Rings are worn and/or possibly the Valve Guides, as they should run with a vacuum in the Crankcase or it will blow the Seals. They are good powerful engines, not prolific either. Well worth a proper rebuild.

a K341 blows a lot of air back into the crankcase - around 600cc. It's normal to be sprayed in oil if you pull the dipstick when running

Hi all I've been busy doing different things on the project ive sorted the wiring out it now starts on the key I've swapped alternators with the original Mitsubishi one as this had the extra terminal for the rev counter which now works I've got the temperature gauge done , I've also fabricated a drive shaft for the hydraulic pump , and I've now started making the tipper body out of box section here is a few pictures so far !