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weather not brilliant, so not many pics...

Well that's it folks. Fini! Primed and undercoated. Top coat colour to be decided.

I have already explained why, but don't fret. Two are for you.

Still on the subject of the early steering, I adapted an old two speed hand drill to use as a steering box. The idea was to have steering from the normal wheel and also from the rear while being towed on a trailer. As the engine drive shaft was on the center line, the steering column was diverted around it via 1/4 drive universal joints and various extension bars. The chuck ( removed ) end of the drill was extended with a welded in bar which just cleared the underside of the gearbox and protruded from the rear of the tractor. This would have been connected to a steering wheel on the trailer via another U/J and shaft. The drill winding handle / lever was connected to the track rod assembly with a short rod and swivel joints. This all worked OK but had excessive free play, mainly due to back lash between the drill gears. I eliminated some of this by drilling, tapping and inserting 4BA adjusting screws in the case which pushed the two bevel gears closer together but couldn't do anything with the helical and spur gearing. After lots of work, trying to keep the U/J's and extensions at the minimum angle, allowing clearance, trying various setups etc and LOTS of head scratching, this arrangement was discarded. As it appears that operation from a trailer is the way to go a much simpler mechanism is being worked on. I have a new idea occupying the brain cell which MIGHT also enable steering from the correct position but would need a half size driver. The following photo's show part of this early set up.

Here is a video from my YouTube channle. My editing skills need work but I feel I did ok lol Have a look and see what you think

Hi Zak, Both the single and double air filter have one housing that doesn't come apart. I usually use the little pick tool (shown in the linked post) or a small screwdriver to poke as much of the old filter foam out using all the holes in the housing. Compressed air can help with the remaining bits, I usually give it a wash with petrol/gas after. The new foam is then squeezed in through the opening at the back and again poked through the holes at the front to spread it out to fill the housing. Your carb will probably need to be stripped and cleaned following the procedure at the start of this thread, Old fuel/oil mix tends to gum up all the parts. Take your time, nothing should fly out, but have a tray underneath to catch any small parts if you want. A new primer diaphragm gasket is usually required for the engine to run at it's best, the old ones usually dry out & crack (Wallfish or Webhead on here have new diaphragms, as well as the check valve gasket if you need them). The screw with the spring of the left of the carb is the idle stop adjustment screw, the holes underneath are used on some tools for the throttle cable. The small quadrant control on the other side of the carb is used to adjust the governed speed. There are two types of this control, one can be set to any position and the other is moved by lifting the spring loaded washer & has five positions. Early production carbs don't have this control. David

Villiers Mk25?

Well done you! Have been watching progress with interest, you've done great! Looking forward to seeing powder coating. Doing nothing of great interest myself. Neglected my old Hayter last autumn and it's let me know it ever since I got it out in Spring! Have the Allen Scythe to tart up this winter, mechanically sound. Fellas having a chuckle at a little thing like me move it around! Huh! lol Will be watching powder coating with great interest! Thank you! ! h

i'd love to see some kind of how to on the powdercoating, also nice job on the westwood

Hi all, I have made some progress, I have removed all the rust, and painted the Horse The quality of finish isn't too bad and I have added the Wheelhorse decals (thanks Mark!). She needs the seat recovering and some engine/electrical work,and the wheels painting- once that is done I will upload a video. But for now, here is a pic!

I'm getting ready to refurbish two Allis 416 decks, fortunately the 42" deck is nearly perfect except for paint and the 48" just needs a couple of "soft" spots in the leading edge welded up. In the last year I have done a Wheel Horse D-160 deck, an Allis 716H deck, a Bolens 1256 deck, and just recently the Bolens 1476 deck. I also spruced up this little wheel barrow dump cart that I bought for 25.00. After the decks I will start on Case and Ariens dump carts and other implements.