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There are at least two more O&R powered drills, the Petro Chug-A-Drill and the 3 speed Bridges Mini-Mota drill. https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1404-bridges-mini-mota-3-speed-drill/ https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1375-restored-petro-drill-chug-a-drill/ And another, the Savidge Drill mentioned in one of the magazine articles in the 'sticky' thread, we haven't seen one of these yet as far as I know; Popular Science January 1962 pages 191 & 192, 194 & 214 Savidge Drill. David

Is it anything like the backpack tapping machines shown on page 12 of the 1961 catalog archived by Dominion & Grimm here?: http://www.dominiongrimm.ca/en/liquidation Also a similar machine which was invented & patented by R.L. Soule and E.I. Soule, known as the King portable power tree tapper, see about 2/3rds of the way down the page here; http://maplesyruphistory.com/2019/03/23/evaporator-company-histories-george-h-soule/ David

It's the same design as the Tiny Tiger, POWR MITE is a re-brand, they have also removed the raised Tiny Tiger lettering from the alternator end housing. Type 111 is the engine model and is commonly found on older Tiny Tigers, the other number is the engine serial number. I can't see the base plate in your pictures, which is maybe why it looks different to other Tiny Tigers, here is one I made (on the right) out of a stainless steel offcut, the original is aluminium. Be sure to check out the carb rebuild 'sticky' thread if you haven't already seen it. I've got various rods/shafts salvaged from broken cassette players & other scrap electronic items, they can be cut to size with a Dremel (or similar tool) to fit the carb. Can you confirm if the missing 'cup' from the starter is actually the crankshaft thrust disc (#148-3) that goes in loose with the felt oil washer. These parts are not actually mentioned on any of the early 1960's parts lists, maybe they weren't used before 1964? I need to check this. Part #131-1 is the bearing for the starter reel and I can't see why it would be missing unless someone had removed out the rivet (which shouldn't need to be removed do to rebuild the starter mechanism), please confirm. The grommet is a standard part that you should be able to find easily, commonly used on electrical/electronic panels to protect wiring/cables that pass through. David

Your right Paul, I'm not quick enough. The engine is possibly a Type 100, there is some overlap with serial numbers & 3/4HP/0.85HP engines at time this was made, but the lack of fins on the crankcase suggests that it is most likely to be a 3/4HP one. My information also suggests it should have a plastic reed valve. David

Those parts don't look too difficult to replicate, it might need a bit of experimentation to find out the length of the rods required for the two different sized boards that @Mekash has. David

Doesn't look too bad to me, most of the other commonly missing engine parts are still with it, but did it come with the chuck key? There should be a model letter or number stamped into the opposite crankcase flange. I'd be interested in re-homing it too as I haven't got an earlier Drillgine. David

Here is another part I have made for the Aquabug, the carbs don't have the usual air filter, instead they have a gauze filter held with a plastic retainer. Neither of my two Aquabug's had the gauze so I cut a piece to size, I made a retainer from a shortened plastic end cap with a hole cut in the end. David

Found a 620RPM KING Drillgine (re-branded) in the Maple Syrup Digest (Jan 1964) on page 15; http://www.maplesyrupdigest.org/?p=125 It seems the Sugar Bush Supplies Company had much smaller ads than competitor Geo. H. Soule Co. Inc. David

Instructions!!! very little seems to come with those these days, usually only get a few pages of elf & safety information, how to recycle/dispose of it, sign up here for extended guarantee (no thanks) and nothing on how to actually use it. Sugar bush seems to be the name given to farms with a lot of maple trees producing maple syrup, sugar bush farms may have anywhere from a few hundred to many thousands of maple trees, which may explain the larger than normal gas tank. I've not found anything on this drill yet but have found several power tapping products made by other companies in the 1960's, including a larger 2¾HP engine powered version and a battery powered electric version. David

So they are all slightly different, never knew they were made in different sizes. Hopefully Don @BabaBooey will see your request for some pictures of the foot controlled throttle mechanism, looks like you may be able to help him with some pictures of the drive belt guard that is missing from his Toby Cart. David

Nice find, looks to have been well looked after too. The gearbox looks very similar to that used on the earlier Drillgine drill or the Comet version, I never noticed before that the later ones are slightly different. Does it still have the instructions that the storage box refers to? David

I thought I had some more saved pictures on the computer but I don't, possibly because I've never seen one for sale. Hopefully someone with one of these can share some more pictures of the mechanism. David

Looking through all the info I have, the best estimate for date is that the engine was produced sometime in 1962. Hope this helps. By the way there are other tools with carbs that have no air cleaner fixing holes, the Aquabug is one. David

The original Bike Motor Kit (below), Chicken Power and Pony Express were all advertised as being capable "of up to 18 mph". Above quote is from this thread: https://myoldmachine.com/topic/3757-chicken-power-bicycle-assist-engine-kit-silver-1973/ David

Could it be for a Wright 100 blade saw (made by Poulan) or one of the re-brands? You can just about see the end of the blade shaft in one of the pictures here for the Dayton 2Z464 version, also it looks small enough in the video too, but 59cc is nearly double that of a O&R 20A (approx 32cc) though. https://www.thisoldchainsaw.com/2z464-dayton Wright 100 Blade Saw article from May 1969 in Popular Science magazine here; https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=GSoDAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PP1&pg=PA134#v=onepage&q&f=false David

Ah, maybe that tank would benefit from repainting, I was referring to the original paint on the starter housing being in good order. David

The SN #803xxxx gives an engine production date of March 1978, so your Pony Express was made in the last year of AEP Ltd. (formerly known as O&R). David

Interesting find and nice to have to history from the guy that made it into a weed wacker. I have pictures of three other engines exactly like the one fitted to your weed wacker (I can see Type 110 on one of them too), they also have no hole in carb for air filter, a full coil cover, a side needle valve in the carb and a push button stop switch (picture attached). The lack of fins on the crankcase is typical of 3/4HP Compact I engines. As for engine dating, I can only give an very rough estimate of early 1960's without knowing the serial number. I strongly suspect that these engines (Type 110) were intended as spares for the Comet C/Saw, have a look through the recent C/Saw thread and you will see how they used a short tube to connect the carb to the handle, which would have had the air cleaner foam inside. The coil covers used on the Comet tools have small piece cut out for the pump, a larger piece cut out for the chainsaw and a full cover for the C/Saw (your pictures confirm that last one). As far as I know the simplified cylinder side plates are only found on Comet engines too. David

If anyone comes across one of these 13B starter mechanisms that is seized don't try to force it, this maybe caused by dissimilar metal corrosion between the steel centre of the starter reel & the alloy housing (which is used as the bearing). The alloy housing is a bit fragile due to the four thin sections for the starter reel bearing, it's very easy to crack these. I got this one apart using a hairdryer to heat up & expand the alloy housing, a gas torch would probably be quicker. David

It wasn't really a question, John found some starter cord that looks similar to the original type used by O&R, i.e. a diamond braided cord with no stripes. Also Stens don't actually make the cord themselves, they source it from Germany & re-brand it. I was trying to find a European brand that have the same type available, as it can't be very cost effective to ship it from Germany to the US then the UK. I have had a look at the Hi-Level website but they don't seem to give prices, do you need to register to find out? Are they the same diameter as the original ones? I bought some similar (but slightly larger) wooden balls a few years ago, I only ended up using one as Webhead surprised me by including some original ones with some parts I bought from him. David

I can't see how it would have saved in production costs as they are using two different paint colors, plus the engine & gearbox were never painted on the older bike kits. I'm curious as the the age of your bike kit, what are the first three digits of the SN? If it is branded AEP it will date from the mid to late 1970's. David

Looking very nice, personally I would keep the original paint on the rest of it as it's still in quite good condition, plus the repro decals don't look quite right. For reference here are some pictures I took of the coil cover from my Comet pump (I meant to add them a while ago but never got round to it), no idea if the bottom section has a bit cut out of it for the pump as I haven't got any of the other tools to compare. David

That's interesting to know, as I had no idea that the Wright saws used the piston to drive the blade directly. I've not yet seen any O&R Series 20A engines used on a blade saw, there doesn't seen to be anywhere near as many 20A engines out there compared with the smaller ones, I sure more tools will turn up that we haven't seen before too. David

Well I give up, I couldn't find any German made 7/64" (2.8mm) braided starter cord over here without stripes, nor could I find the OEM Stens buy it from, there was some similar looking stuff from the Shenzhen Market if you don't mind the long wait. Anyway I don't like using them but Bezos.com have it for £12.11 including shipping & customs fees from the US, not a bad price, so it's been ordered. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OK8J1W/ David

I've recently been working on replacing the missing & damaged plastic spacers originally used for the Aquabug covers. I did initially test some plastic spacers I had in my spares, but they were a bit too large in diameter to fit properly and also didn't react too well with fuel. Anyway I quickly gave up with those and started looking for something better, eventually I found some brass tubing from Albion Alloys at a model engineering supplier. https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/info-BT5.html Here are the finished spacers after cutting to size, together with the fixings (I've since had to order some longer screws), the second picture shows where they are used. David