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Hi Richard, Thanks for that link, 1966 & 1HP makes more sense, the earliest O&R parts list I have mentioning the compact III (1HP) is dated November 1965, that doesn't imply that they didn't introduce it earlier that year of course. The information in the link seems mostly fine, I will see if I can find any more reference to the 16:1 ratio in any of my original O&R literature, I just checked a few yesterday. One thing I don't agree on in the link is the last comment " Used O & R model airplane engine " I think it should really say something like 'used O&R compact industrial engine' as the O&R Compact was developed as an industrial engine (although model makers did & still do use them for other things), here is something I found from an archive document relating to that; I remembered recently buying a parts list dated Apr 1964, hopefully this scan from it helps better with the (early) original ratios, I will edit the calculated 10.67:1 ratio to 11:1 in yesterday's post. Of course modern oils allow higher ratio to be used, as has already been said; David

I'm not sure where you found that information but there were no 1HP O&R engines in the early 1960's (only 3/4HP) and the only mention of a 16:1 ratio is for the much later 1970's 1.6HP Model 20A engine, there seems to be a lot of incorrect information around for these engines. Here are some old fuel/oil mix ratios from the various O&R manuals & literature I have, the ratio changed over the years; 1961 & 1962: 3/4 pint #30 SAE oil per gallon (11:1 ratio), these early compact engines where rated at 3/4HP. 1963: 1/3 pint #30 SAE heavy duty oil per gallon (24:1 ratio), again only 3/4HP compact engines available then. 1966: 1/3 pint #30 SAE heavy duty oil per gallon (24:1 ratio), for all 3/4HP, 0.85HP, 1HP compact engines. From the NIAE test report (published 1964), "the petrol/oil mixture has been changed to 24 parts petrol to 1 part oil and the recommended grade of oil is heavy duty M.S. type SAE 30" (was 3/4 pint to 1 gallon when they did the testing in Jan-May 1963) many design changes were made following this report. There was also a mention of chrome cylinder linings, here is the information I have for some of the O&R engines; 1963: Early compact engines had a steel sleeve cylinder with chrome piston rings (earlier information from 1960 doesn't mention the rings being chromed) 1975: Model 13B engine (1HP) has steel cylinder liner with special alloy cast iron rings, and to confuse things more the brochure (undated) for the newer Model 20A engine (1.6HP) gives a 16:1 fuel/oil ratio using either SAE 30AD or MS motor oil, these engines had a chromed cylinder bore. Forum recommendation for fuel/oil mix ratio; We have been recommending a 32:1 fuel/oil mix on the forum for using modern 2-stroke oils, I have been using a high quality mineral based 2-stroke oil from Stihl, another forum user had problems with the synthetic version of 2-stroke oil from Stihl, see this thread; Obviously you may need to experiment to find something suitable that is available where you are, but I do not recommend oils sold by petrol stations for use with scooters (tried some of that in a Villiers engine many years ago, it was far to smoky), the best stores to try and find something suitable would be a local store that sells & repair garden or ground maintenance equipment, chainsaws etc. Note the all the O&R compact engines & the newer Model 20A have seals made from rubber and also on earlier production engines they used plastic cages for the bearings, these can be damaged by certain additives in some types of fuel/oil. Also if you intend to store the engine for any long period it's recommended to drain all fuel and to put some oil down the spark-plug hole, pull the starter a few times to coat the cylinder & piston and leaving the piston blocking the exhaust ports. I must admit I don’t know if the fuel sold in the UK has ethanol in it, I guess that is something else to look out for which may or may not have harmful additives. David I forgot to add that you should check out the carb repair thread if you haven't already and it's a good idea to clean out any old crumbly filter foam from the air filter housing, it can damage the engine if any of it gets sucked in. David

Just been looking through some of the archived magazine articles I have saved from the web and found this drawing of a very similar looking pump set to the one in above picture. It's from the June 1961 edition of Popular Science and is described as a bilge pump. David

Also I had a go at bidding on a another type 98 engine (I asked the seller what type it was as it looked unusual), I didn't win it but here are some pictures of it showing the externally threaded PTO shaft mentioned in the parts list, together with an adaptor housing I haven't seen before. The adaptor housing looks like was attached to something flat, also note the long stop switch wire. Anyone seen one like this before? David

I've had a better look at the parts attached to the PTO shaft of this engine, it looks like an adaptor kit for something like a propeller, which doesn't help with identifying the original use. But I have found a reference in a parts list from 1964 for an externally threaded PTO shaft (part no. 42-39) being used on the type 98 engine, clearly mine doesn't have one, but it could have been changed as someone has definitely had this engine apart, the screws for the induction housing have been shortened too, so it probably had an adaptor plate or housing. David

Does anyone recognise these dismantled remains of what looks like a small pump or compressor, which came with the dismantled O&R model L I got recently. David

This weekend I've finally had a bit of time to see if I could free up the seized piston, it was left to soak for a couple of days with some oil in the cylinder as I usually do, then I used the flywheel to turn it gently each way a little bit at a time until it was free. Once the piston was free to move, I could safely remove the cylinder without any further damage. It looks like this early engine had little or no use. I think I may have a spare con-rod somewhere, just need to locate it. Looks like it has the odd sized piston rings, although it shouldn't have according to a service bulletin (last used in 1961 with serial number 006072) as this is serial number 006403, I guess they still had a few left and used them all up. David

I collected a parcel a few weeks ago containing a mostly dismantled early O&R model L engine, complete with a seized piston & bent con-rod. I will see how far I can rebuild it, I know the cover for the clutch housing is missing as well as most of the screws. It seems to be quite rare to find the model letter still on the decal. A view of the bent con-rod. David

That's a very nice restored chainsaw & hedge cutter, the engine with the reduction gearbox looks like new too (any idea what the type/model number is? I can try & find out the output speed if you would like). The parts engine looks like it may have come off a hedge cutter. David

The fuel tanks seem to disappear on all types of O&R engine not just this drill, I guess the cracked one could be repaired (mine has been soldered on one of the seams). Do you know anyone that could make a new tank using the original as a pattern? (a model engineer maybe), unless someone has a spare tank of course. There are three possible part numbers for the con-rod depending on the age of the engine (due to bearing size changes over the years), if the engine dates from 1964 or later and is a Compact II (0.85HP) or Compact III (1HP) then the part number is 31-3 according to the information I have, the Bridges Mini-Mota manual in post four of this thread also gives the same part number. Early Compact engines (no HP decal but are 3/4HP) from 1960 to 1962 use part number 31-1, I am missing the 1963 parts list so can't confirm if part number 31-2 is for that year. Rupert Ledger & Co. Ltd of Airfield Estate, White Waltham, Maidenhead in Berkshire (also at 28 Mackenzie St. Slough according to an older service directory list) were the main sales representative and central warehouse distributor for Europe. Have you already found the other common problems with these engines, i.e. the carb diaphragm, air filter foam and sometimes the crankshaft seals? David

For your information; the batteries are only needed for the resistance (ohms) ranges, the voltage & current (amps) ranges will work fine without them. David

I did see that one last week and knew what it came off too, the seller stated that "WE PULLED THE PULL CORD BUT IT DOES NOT MOVE" was there anything wrong or was it just stuck with dried out oil from long term storage? The starter mechanism has definitely been repaired at some point in the past (a common problem), only three of the screws are fitted & they aren't original. David

I take it the original air filter was missing? they are often missing as Webhead said (although not every application used them & some of the saws had different types fitted). The replacement you've made looks very nice, anyone with access to a lathe should be able to make one too, no idea if it would be profitable to sell them though (also there is still an incorrectly listed original one on ebay). The manual states that the slot in the top of the cylinder should be either in-line with the crankshaft or at right angles to it, you've got it correctly fitted. David

Well done and thanks for sharing the pictures, I've never seen the inside of one of those tanks before, will have to have a go at replacing the filter in mine sometime. Seal-All seems to be available over here as well as Threebond (Yamabond?), there are probably others that would work if you read through the data-sheets and check how others have got on with them, also check the shelf-life too (seems to be two years for Seal-All). Note; I've removed the reference to epoxy resin from my earlier post as it doesn't look suitable. David

Do you mean this check valve? Which can sometimes cause problems or fail completely on early engines. Or the check ball in the carb diaphragm bowl? Which can stick closed even after cleaning (but that doesn't sound like it would cause too much fuel/gas to pass through, unless stuck open or the spring is missing). Note there are two different sizes of this check ball depending on the age of the carb (earlier ones had the small one shown below). I definitely would check these first before taking the engine apart, if you do strip the engine do prepared for the bearing rollers that can drop out (have something underneath to catch them). David

Be careful with any tank that has had fuel/gas in recently if using a blow-torch for heat. I was thinking to push the base off with something through the filler neck too, once the old glue has been softened with heat. This is the type of in-line filter (Sullivan No.187) I bought for my engines, picture below borrowed from ePay. David

The picture below shows the O ring I was talking about, it seals where the screw that passes through the induction housing intake that is behind the carb, it often drops out unnoticed. The arrow shown in the picture below indicates where the screw passes through the induction housing intake. There are two seals on the back-shaft (PTO) and another in the gearbox output shaft (that shouldn't cause the problems you are having, it would just leak oil out around the output shaft for the chain sprocket). David

New old stock original seals are almost as hard to find as rocking horse droppings and there is no guarantee how long they will last. The originals seals have a V shaped section & have to be fitted the correct way round. The only alternate we have is to fit O rings of the correct size from one of those assortment kits, the diameter of the crankshaft & back-shaft changed to a bigger size for the later engines. Also don't forget to change the O ring for the screw that goes through the fuel intake on the induction housing, it usually falls out without being noticed. I seem to recall someone having a problem with an O&R engine sucking all the gearbox oil through one of the seals, it was very smoky indeed. What carb needle setting did you have for the last attempt (where fuel was dripping from the carb)? Also was the spark-plug immediately oiled up again when it only fired the once? And finally but probably unrelated to the current problem, are you using the CJ14 or CJ8 spark-plug?. David

The same happened with my first O&R (a Tiny Tor, same as The Tiny Tiger but 240V output), all attempts to unblock the filter failed, I do have a much better technique for cleaning it now. I learnt a lot from that first restoration. I ended up fitting an in-line filter (shown below on a different generator where a previous owner had damaged the tank filter) that was recommended on the previous forum, maybe I should revisit that base tank at some point, I've no idea if the filter can be refitted though as I've never opened one, but I do have some other small tank filters I could use, also I will probably find a leaky base tank eventually. I would use a heat-gun or equivalent to warm up the base & hopefully soften the glue originally used to remove the base, then see if the filter can be repaired. Before refitting the base clean the old glue from the edges of both tank parts and use a fuel/gas resistant glue to refit the base. David

I can only find synthetic oils on the Royal Purple site; http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/ Is this the one you have? http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/hp-2c-2-cycle-engine-oil/ I guess you will let us know if it works or not. If the engine is getting flooded the spark-plug will be getting clogged with oil. Here is the carb needle setting information from the carb repair tutorial sticky thread; Carb Setting These posts are from the old forum thread for setting the carb needle. Original post by Webhead. "1 and 1/4 out for starting. I have had units run good between 3/4 and a full 2 turn out." Original post by usedtoolman. "If I recall there is one more factor on the needle setting. If you have a slotted needle the setting is 1/2 turn as opposed to 1-1/4 for the non grooved needle." You can cut a piece from any filter intended for small engines that is the correct thickness to fit, I have been cutting circles (some chainsaws had other shaped filters) out of this pre filter foam I got from the local lawnmower/grounds maintenance/small tool repair shop. Leaving the old filter foam off is better for getting it running if you don't have a replacement yet, as this tends to happen. Pretty nasty stuff if it gets into the engine. David

I suspect the WD-40 has only cleaned a tiny part of the filter, does it still drip out slowly with the gas cap removed? See this post for another method of cleaning the tank filter; Excess oil & fuel usually does come out of the exhaust if there is any trouble with starting or keeping an engine running. The recommended fuel/gas & oil mix is 32:1 using modern 2 stroke oils, what ratio have you been mixing to? Is the Royal Purple oil mineral or synthetic based? I have been using the standard mineral based Stihl 2 stroke oil (red color) that was recommended by someone that uses chainsaws regularly, just don't try the synthetic version (green color) as it doesn't work well at all, see this thread for more; David

Perhaps this should be moved to the Ohlsson & Rice section; http://myoldmachine.com/forum/74-ohlsson-and-rice/ All the information you may need for the engine is there, have a look at the carb rebuild thread to start (if you haven't already found it). Webhead sells replacement carb diaphragms (send him a PM), also don't forget to clean out/replace the old crumbly air filter foam so that it doesn't ruin the engine if it gets sucked in. These augers aren't that common, I can't believe you got given it , I've been trying to add one to my collection for quite a while without success. David

It has been a while & it's good to hear from him too. Also there are still a couple more Turbair items waiting to be scanned here, a spraying guide and a PBI chemicals guide. David

Hi Terry, I have the same problem, there never seems to be enough fun time. I'm glad I could help with your carb repair, we all try our best on here to keep these compact engines going & help others to do the same, so if there is anything else you need advise about we should be able to help. Good luck with the rest of your restoration. David

Good advise, will add that check to my repair notes, I've definitely had fuel leaking from one before, just be careful not to over-tighten the carb screws as it could potentially break the casting, new gaskets are the probably best solution if they are damaged. David