Wallfish

Technically an original O&R piece since these engines were sold for the end user to power something. There was one like the Orline pump on epay with an electric motor for $40 but the idiot couldn't figure out how to remove one screw on the shaft and the mount bolts to separate the electric motor.

Added some nitro to it and went to town on this Ash tree. Probably cut that stump down another 4-6 inches before the stump grinder. Just thought it would be funny to show how small these little saws really are. Should have seen the look on the guys face when I walked up with it an asked if he needed any help. Just a completely blank stare until he realized it was a joke.

Those Tarpen tools are definitely cool and they look very well built. I'd like to find some for my collection but doubt there are very many out there.

It was on the old forum when it was changed. 10 years? My memory SUCKS now and it's getting worse everyday but I do remember changing it. You vultures might end up with a good score when I soon forget that I even collect O&R stuff, and then the O'lady puts it all up for sale.

The one I have is also marked on the label with a B. It's been a very long time since and can't remember exactly what it was from but I found a new impeller to fit. Think it came from one of those drill pumps My handle comes from the coil side as well but they obviously could be switched. Not sure why

You can do it dry or just dip it in water which works fine but some have said to use Coke. I don't like the sticky mess of the soda and it doesn't really seem to do anything more than water. Crumble it up as the sharp edges is what cleans it up but will not scratch the chrome. Use it on the exhaust manifold too. Makes them look new if they're not too bad. Coating with a very thin coat oil after is good too to stop the rust from returning.

How many O&Rs are you up to now? Guessing someone probably ran the old pump dry and smoked the impeller.

Can you just weld a washer on to it?

Nice save. Quite the difference on before and after. Don't believe I have a spare exhaust extension but will take a look. You can make one out of pipe and you can also make a longer exhaust rod to hold the muffler out of threaded rod.

Just guessing the pump was just one of little water pumps with 2 garden hose type connections like the Comet pumps and others used. Like a drill pump since that would have a shaft ready to go. Nice and simple and easy to loose.

Diaphragm is on the way. Be sure to let us know how it all works out.

The couple/few I have opened up had that orange crap on there as well. Don't remember seeing them like Clint's. Yeah, those wires you should totally strip and cover. Thought they would've been in better shape from your first description

The black label on the top of the blower is an Advanced Engine Products label Definitely newer than 1967. Curious where you got the 1967 year from? Clean points contacts, clean the copper spring where it meets that little post, clean the post, clean and good wire connections on the back of the post, Looks like that brass stop switch is upside down so make sure it isn't touching anything The condenser body needs to be grounded and it's loose in the pic. Once all that is checked take the plug out and lay it on top of the head. Give it a good pull and you should see a sharp snapping blueish spark in the >030 gap of the plug. Lots of carb info in this thread linked below. You will see the ball bearing type check valve but yours has the rubber stopper (newer) type. The diaphragms for both are the same and I'll send you one to the address you provided

Just be careful. I covered mine since there's no need to be pretty in there and it's completely hidden once assembled. My priority was to make sure nothing was damaged and stopped the operation of it. The shrink tube holds the old insulation once it's on there. It shouldn't be a problem to remove it all either and shrink tube it.

Yes, you can do that. Just delete his posts/threads and credit him for the contributions of them in the manual section. Or, leave the thread posts and reference in each one where you moved them. I believe either way would work.

Cut those caps off so you can work on the wires without being restrained by the connections to the cover. You'll find it much easier to work on without breaking off all of the old insulation plus you can now use shrink tubes to cover the wires. Once the shrink tube is done it can easily be handled without as much worry of damage to those areas of the wires. I used gray size wire nuts to connect and cover mine but soldering as David did is a much better connection.

I still never found that first set of parts I was going to send you. Wanted to put my engine back together but they gotta be around here somewhere. Was going to get you guys pics of those parts and lost them some how. My airplane engine is stripped down, has a copper cap soldered over the flywheel side of the shaft, and a small port soldered into the exhaust manifold. It's used to pressurize the fuel tank which would be completely sealed so you could fly in any position without loosing fuel to the carb.

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Think I'm going to have to post something since no one else is busy on here and it's been a bit dead. Was going to wait until it's done but... It's a good sign people are busy with work again

Ah Ha. on the hole. I do remember seeing a service bulletin about removing those double diaphragm carbs and replacing with a normal carb. Never have seen one of those doubles yet.

What is this crankcase port? And what would it be used for? Never saw that one before. The carb diaphragm will not pump fuel with a breached case and oil would probably spit out and or dirt and dust sucked in if it were just left open.

Just guessing that TT which he still has in pieces.

Had to go out and take a peak. I have the 90 deg tubes on the exhaust and the prop drive is the same as Clint posted. That bottom fin is around here somewhere too.

Nice. Those stands look vaguely familiar

Which wire? best to post a better pic. If it's not bad and you don't want to cut off the cap for covering with shrink tube, you can cover it with Plasti-Dip. That stuff doesn't glue itself to things so make sure you go all the way around the wire. It shrinks up tight when dry. Works good for fixing the old style coil wires too. So far, never had a problem with the old bearings. They don't really have to take much side load so...