Jump to content

Wallfish

Moderators
  • Content Count

    1,419
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    125
Everything posted by Wallfish
 
 
  1. @Mitymoehelp there's also a crank seal on the other end inside the induction piece. Like an 1/8" inside the hole. An O ring will work for that one
  2. Mask it off ? Yes. 1/4" pitch chain and a 12" bar. Manual oiler, seems all of the O&R saws are manual. Mine is missing the the plastic knob
  3. Yeah, those rollers are a PITA and just did another one yesterday myself. I use Lubriplate 105 engine assembly grease but it's basically the same thing. Yes, there should be a seal there. Original seal is a small cupped seal but so far don't think anyone found a direct replacement of those. I do have a couple rubber flat washers in my parts stash that seem about the right size but never really looked into it to see if they are actually a newer type crank seal. @factory is the technical parts guru so maybe he knows of something and I think @CNew was looking into cupped replacements at one time. Not sure if an O ring will work or not
  4. Do you have one of these saws too Clint? Yeah, me too. It was better until some over spray carb cleaner smeared the lower left.
  5. Forgot all about Sugar Creek. Thanks as that size is about perfect for the chain cover and maybe a quick note to them about a smaller one might get a recoil decal too. Sending a PM
  6. Look at the engine rebuild thread. That rod uses plastic cage bearings. Two engines I did recently, same thing. No plastic cages on the last two engines and they have the open rollers with washers. Guessing that's what's going on.
  7. Now Karma has come back to bite me for bust'n Clint. Lost a hole crank end bearing, cage and all. Put it somewhere safe and can't find it now
  8. Just bust'n your balls. But I thought if they had plastic cages, all the bearings are plastic cage bearings. At least the engines I've taken apart so far were like that. But they did make lots of changes as they went along
  9. Probably should've known better than to post that comment on here. You guys are definitely more into the horticultural stuff than most people on this side are. Hey Paul, Are you looking for anything? I know shipping stuff there is a pain and expensive but...
  10. While putting away the newly finished Chip A Saw, this one was in a box, in the way so might as well start on a new project. Unfortunately the paint is junk so it will probably need to be sprayed. Chainsaws are lower on my list of collectable tools so that's the reason there's a few need to be gone through. This has been in a box on the shelf and hasn't seen daylight for years, just like that Bee Jay winch from the engine rebuild thread. Did I mention painting is low on the fun list? The 2 tools are a very similar in yellow so getting them ready to do at once is the plan for now. There's also and older type Chip A Saw but that is already done, just not painted. Can't remember if the yellow color is similar. Maybe @JUST O&R 's decal guy can make a couple of Mono saw decals???????? Huh? Maybe? Huh?
  11. Take a look in the engine rebuild thread. That rod was changed to a newer slotted rod but I still used a plastic cage bearing with 9 rollers. It fit perfect so this adds more confusion. The big trick is to not loose the rollers when taking it apart like Clint does.
  12. It has the original Chip A Saw decals on the cover and the bar yet also a painted label on the bar for Bunyan. That's the black label you sent me. Stole it from ya!
  13. Is that rod bearing supposed be a plastic caged bearing too? That may explain the space between the rollers? Plastic cage bearing should have 9 rollers though.
  14. Yeah, Got'er done. This project gave a reminder of why I don't like to paint. The prep work is tedious and and messy plus after it's done it needs to be handled with care like a new born baby. And the patience needed to wait for it to cure is a problem since I want to always put it back together too quick. The end result is nice to have though. The first color it was painted was too far off, this color is just a tad lighter than the original paint but a pretty close match. The handle/gearbox cover piece was left original because the decal is complete and in very nice condition. It may get masked off and sprayed but then it'll need bar decals and a nicer bar. I'll find some nicer oil and gas caps for it too.
  15. There should be roller bearings with cage to hold them in the deep part of the cover for the big gear
  16. I know something! It's one of two things, the seller won't actually get paid because it turned into just making a point of the other person not winning or the winning bidder is a clueless idiot. You guys seem to be doing well so far for catching good prices. I've paid $125 just for an engine in the past. Prices do trend up and down and just a few years ago competition for them was up there.
  17. It's about time! And think I spy the next project, a green Mustang under the bench. That thing really needs some luv'n And David is probably right, the only Perry badged Aquabug in the country
  18. Nice, did you ever get the push rod and spark issue figured out?
  19. Nice score Pretty sure that something like that was posted on the old forum. I remember seeing that seat design before
  20. Seems many of those rubber spark plug caps disappear just like the cooling baffles do. I have a few engines missing them. Made this one using an old Champion CJ8 plug and a can of black Plasti Dip. This was the first one but think I can do even better by rolling the edge of the first dip down to make a lip before doing the second dip. Anyway, if you guys need some covers, it's pretty easy to make them. It appears more original than the rubber caps you can buy. Works well for the stop Kill too
  21. Yes it is, did ya forget? You should post some pics of your collection again. Like that Aquabug generator, Orline winch, ect. ect. I couldn't capture everything before they shut down the old forum and missed a bunch of posts.
  22. No I didn't, I offered $50 and you said "times 10". Man, you're get'n old! As far as the spelling, could it have read Runyon? Both sides have the bottom the "B" cut off straight in the same exact spot which makes it look like it could be an R.
  23. You can use one of those magnetic business cards or a fridge type magnet to help keep those rollers under control. A bigger magnet helps with finding them if they do escape
  24. So you probably don't remember telling me a couple weeks ago about buying your entire collection for $500 huh?
 
×
×
  • Create New...