Wallfish

Get him to join You know, teach a man to fish sorta thing.

Maybe use something as filler and just wind on a shorter 25 ft cable so it appears like it's full. I have the 350 ft cable but haven't really decided. I might make some sort of handle so it can more easily be carried and then the full cable would probably go on. No. That crazy hillbilly was gonna give me $165 just for the decal but I felt bad taking advantage of him, so it went back on the winch. He was mess'n with me earlier about it if you read back

Birds of prey, Ha! Funny how my post didn't mention ANY names but you guys know exactly who was meant. VULCTURES! BTW, does anyone know what the O&R decal bird is actually supposed to be? An Albatross or something? A new decal was made but I couldn't simulate those angled letters very well. The new decal looked alright but in the end decided to just keep the damaged original. Again, it took a while to clean off all of the stuck paint from it but...

I did good! It's certainly worth more now. Which is a nice change. Usually it's put a bunch of hours, parts and materials into something and it's still worth about the same or even less then when ya started. Those other 2 O&R vultures would've been all over that at $225 Thanks David

Same idea but I wanted to do a stack at a time, say 10 - 15 pieces. There used to be a guy that sold "Send Your Enemies Glitter" Place the order and he would box up some glitter so that crap would get all over place when the package was opened. Thought that was funny for a practical joke.

So, Unfortunately I got side tracked with some important work an personal stuff and didn't meet the hobby goals of today with sending @scott mok, @CNew and @pmackellow their goodie packages, attempting a better spring cutting method by shearing out the center, inspecting all of the parts and attachments from a recently acquired Wheel Horse 520-H tractor package deal, and any other O&R or tractor stuff. Never made it out of the house today. Maybe @JUST O&R should check in so I can find something to send him too. LoL But, I ordered a roll of that spring material and a 1/8" W grinding disk. The plan is to pinch a stack of the spring material in between some mild steel for support, get the grinding wheel to fit in my lathe chuck and use the milling attachment to feed and control the stock into the wheel and grind out the center opening of the spring shape. Then either grind or cut the exterior edges for the springs. All theory it will work at this point but certainly worth a try compared to individually hand cutting our feeler gauges. But don't stay complacent waiting for me, cut up those feeler gauges so yours is as ruined as mine is! LoL

The tool and die maker did respond and also gave a good idea. He wrote "Perfect job for a shop with a wire EDM machine, they could stack dozens of blanks and cut them perfectly." He wrote "I could make a fixture and do the same by grinding, but it would take more effort."

Can you tell us what I paid for it? Memory is not my specialty anymore and have no idea what is was. For a guess, around $250.00 ?

If anyone has the knowledge, program and skill to photoshop the decal so the M O N O letters can be curved like the original decal, let us know if you're willing to give it a shot and I'll provide a better squared off clear pic to work with if that one above is not ideal.

Guess you won't be able to FEEL anything at .003 either huh? Looks good. I'll get you some parts in the mail to give it a real world test in the engine. After closer inspection of the pics you PMd, that diaphragm body you have is a newer type which used a small rubber piece attached to the arm for the valve instead of using a ball bearing like the drawing you referenced. Unfortunately that particular arm is another part which is in very short supply. However, changing that bottom half to a ball type valve body with a regular type bearing valve and arm will solve the problem. I'll get you the needed parts to try that spring. Please look at that carb diagram thoroughly again and verify you have all of the gaskets and that thin little check valve which fits between the 2 halves.

The Sugarcreek decals arrived today. Although they state these are 3" decals, luckily for us they are actually 2.5" decals and will fit the recoil. They do fit on as is but trimming off some of the outer black circle will give even a better fit. @CNew let's trade decals as the chain cover will look better with the larger decal you have and your recoil will be taken care of with the smaller 2.5 decal. That circle cutter will come in handy again!

Trial and error is typically the process I use. The tension of the .002 spring installed into the carb should work but it does feel a little light. The .003 material is what I'd suggest trying next and at minimum that feeler gauge material at that thickness should work best (So Far). One thing to be careful of if cutting by hand, the spring steel will easily crack. Already had one crack off the little arm because of the cut on the inside corner. This is where a better cutting method will pay off. Tried cutting that inside piece out with an xacto, scissors and just bending to break it. That area is the most important it seems so even if a cutting method for that spot is used, the rest can easily be cut with shears. I'll try making my own die today to try and punch that out.

I'm working on it today. Does anyone have experience creating a DXF file? We can get an online quote to have them laser cut if I can upload a DXF file for the springs. Found a free trial program but it will probably take a while for an idiot like me to figure out how to use it properly and create a file. The tool and die guy responded but so far it's just correspondence to see if it's even a cost effective solution. One thing for sure, that one I did get right and installed will work. BUT having a bit more precision to them would be much better

Used one of them and already have a need for the other. It's clear we will all soon be in need of them and Scott is the first casualty until a spring solution is found. Exactly what I was thinking too. Different material will have different tension properties (Touche')

005 seems pretty thick even by feel. Just tried one in 004 and much more difficult to cut with scissors but still made one and it's definitely much stiffer than the original spring I'm using Get'n frustrated now with cutting a couple more and it's getting late. Just dropped the 003 one in my tools and can't find it so giving up for now. Maybe a tool and die shop can make a punch set to knock these out. There's a guy over on RedSquare which owns a shop. I'll certainly ask him.

I like a guy that hops right in and gets to work! No fear of trying something new and doesn't care about sacrificing a few bucks to give it a go even if it doesn't work. That's confidence it WILL work! Got the new homemade .002 feeler gauge spring installed into a carb. I think you're right about it being .003 as this one does seem a little light on the tension but this is going to work for replacements one way or another. A better faster way to cut them with a little more precision and woolaa, springs. Wonder if there's a way to get these metal pieces laser cut? Eric the gasket man can't do metal on his equipment but also not so sure we can use a couple hundred in all of our lifetimes put together. I'm glad you got this kick started Scott Now if we can only get @JUST O&R to make 6000 ft of silicone fuel line our carb problems will be over!

just tried my own advice and cut a couple off the feeler gauge. It seemed like .002 was right but again, I'm only going by feel with my fingers and trying to compare it with the gauged material. Real scientific like approach! Please don't try this at home! The feeler gauge is unfortunately not the correct width so they need to be cut length wise. BUT it was perfect size for halfway so 2 can be cut from the same length. Used very scientific tools to cut them, scissors and an Xacto knife. Left is #1 attempt middle is actual spring Right is #2 attempt Clearly not perfect as the first one is dimensional sewage but #2 might actually work. After cutting a bunch the technique should improve so therefore the finished product should as well. Scientific reasoning. LoL

Just guessing and going by feel but here's a 3" x 50 " roll of .003. That should keep the new guy busy cut'n carb springs for a while! LoL https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRECISION-BRAND-SHIM-STOCK-ROLL-BLUE-TEMPERED-STEEL-003-GAUGE-3-X-50-23120/401788624351?epid=1530224846&hash=item5d8c77dddf:g:0LIAAOSwg6ldB6p7 OR, for a quick try on cutting them, how about using a cheapie feeler guage from harbor freight? The width of the one I have is the perfect length of the spring. Now they can be tried in different thicknesses too and you can probably cut almost 10 from each different size. A whopping $5 to try one https://www.harborfreight.com/feeler-gauge-32-pc-63665.html Whatever you do don't use a shopping cart when going in there. It's always impulse buy hell if you like tinkering or tools. Go in for a $5 item and come out $50 poorer. Minimum!

I'll get you a carb arm too. @CNew is going to measure the thickness of that steel of a spring. They sell thin blue tempered spring shim stock in different thicknesses on epay. Be real nice if we can match that thickness so it would be easier to try and reproduce those springs. even closer than the piece of material I have would be better.

Hey Scott Unfortunately those arm springs are scarce but it's something I've been thinking about on how to make a replacement. That thin of a spring steel might be difficult to find but I have not actually put the time in to search it. But, if you're a handy guy and want to try making one, I do have some thin spring steel from a piston ring compressor tool. It would probably need to be ground or filed down to be thinner, then cut into shape. you can use what's left of your spring for a template of the size and shape. Let me know if you want to try and I'll send you a piece of the metal. Only requirement is you need to report back with your success or failure so we know if it works or not.

Just went out and cut a piece off the pipe about 3/4 inch wide. This should make it easier for removing the spring from the retainer once in the housing instead of picking at the thinner one with a dental tool or small screwdriver. Two storage rings and one installation ring

I threw in one of the NOS springs when sending those neon's parts. Probably should have stole some of the NOS orange carb gaskets for the body connection to the induction piece as I just had a couple of damaged ones.

NOS recoil springs come packed with these metal retainers. It makes the spring very easy to install into the housing. I reuse them for used springs when servicing the recoils. Clean and coil up the used spring small enough to load into the retainer so you won't need to pinch and hold the spring tension while installing it. Drop it into place inside the housing and hold the spring down with your thumb or fingers while removing the retainer. Once removed, lightly release pressure so the spring uncoils slowly until it stops. It seems best to lube the spring after it's installed which allows the friction to control the uncoiling speed. They work great for storing any spare springs if you have extras or spares. Plus leaves them ready to go for replacing damaged springs and protects them from accidental bending You can make your own retainers out of 2 inch pipe. Left one below is cut pipe, the other is a factory retainer. Just use a file to smooth the edges so it's easy to remove from the spring. The retainer's thickness is less than the width of the spring but making a wider piece allows for easier removal. Try it and you won't go back to the pinch and hold panic of an uncoiling spring again. No more because of accidental release of the coil tension. Please send your $50 donation for saving you time and aggravation during your recoil services.

Reminds me of this type of edger blade which would also make a cool stand

For the decal? Price just went up knowing it's a Petro power product. It drove me nuts trying to figure out the little stop lever pieces and how it worked with the circle spring. It's been 5 years since removing it so it was a puzzle. The problem was the way the cable spools on to the drum. Typically it would pull and feed the cable from the bottom of the drum as that's closer to the mounting point which would keep the unit from tipping forward during pulling. Messed with that thing on and off forever but it always worked backwards. Finally realized the cable direction onto the drum has to be from the top, which is verified in that ad pic. Mounted vertical like that would be the best way pulling with the cable feeding from the top of the drum. Seems strange it's designed to be mounted vertical but the tank is not rotated as David mentioned