Wallfish

My grandson was there when I opened the box for mine. He got all excited when he saw it and asked "Can I shoot it too?" He thought it was a weird gun of some sort.

bet you were just a bit skeptical on how well it work before trying it, huh? I use WD-40 to clear off all of the water , let dry, coat with oil then wipe off the oil with a dry rag. The oil will stay in the pits and help protect it from further deterioration. steel wool will leave scratches as it's harder than the chrome. Most bikers will not use it on their chrome parts because of that and you can see the scratches when it's out in the sun.

Never really looked at it close. Last weekend was the first time it came out of the box. Didn't see it. Those are a rare rare item and I paid $350 ?? plus shipping for mine Just looked it up and it went for $149. Bet if it was listed under O&R it could've fetched $350 plus

Nice find. Try cleaning the chrome handle with crumpled up aluminum foil and water. Or coca-cola. It works really well and doesn't leave scratch marks.

The switch just grounds the points to stop the engine. So wherever that wire connects doesn't necessarily make any difference. It should connect to the engine the same way as the Mustang saw does. Can't remember exactly but I'm pretty sure there's just a short pigtail wire from the nut on the points post up to the handle, and the two wires connect together with small solderless crimp on connectors.

Thanks for the link! Just ordered that plastic one. It's for a guy in Sweden that contacted me about some parts. I'll check it out and see if it fits proper first. Looks like it does and then the box was used for a conversion.

Well it's about time! Don't think I've ever seen them with that label. Could just be European since it's 240v. David, are you aware of any replacements for the ceramic electrical plug on the TTs? Thought maybe @usedtoolman Jim may have found something a long time ago but but it may have gotten lost with the old forum.

That's a new one on me. I've seen pics of the sluice type units where the O&R powers the water pump

Could this be from a sno tiger? Not sure if you were there yet or remember but there was a post on the old forum when a guy had a whole bunch of stuff but he would never reply so I don't think anyone was able to buy it. Anyway, he had some type of vacuum/blower thingys. Maybe?

For $2.20 you can't go wrong. Are you having Eric cut these?

I leave them in there as well but these aren't being run very often either.

The dreaded recoil spring. Nothing worse than getting it all back together and then discovering it was wound the wrong way and it's a redo.

See, David got excited and impressed so much by these little screamers at high rpm he's now the O&R guru.

I bought one from him a while ago. Opened the box, looked at it and closed the box. Though I'd rather have one of the type with a little 1hp classic O&R. Buffalo Turbine It'll get displayed at one of the local engine shows this year.

I'd just go with David's idea. It only needs to ground the points. I know those handles are a tight fit so less wires is helpful but not if you got a ruin the switch

That appears to be a nut which holds the tabs and isolators all together.

@K-TRON Chris was in my area yesterday visiting some of his family and he needed some diaphragms. Unfortunately I didn't have much time to have him visit my house and check out the collections of stuff, but maybe next time. It's always enjoyable to pull that stuff out of those hibernation boxes and share them with other interested people. They'll make it out to a local show or two this year.

If the switch comes apart, you can just remove that insulation ring which David pointed the green arrow to. The switch body appears to be isolated from those tabs and by removing that insulation ring you are just connecting the tab to the switch body. The switch body will connect to ground when it's installed on the handle and therefore ground the the wire when the the button is pressed which connects those 2 contacts. Either way you do it will work fine.

IMO if you are going for a running display engine to demonstrate, go FWO. Those little things scream at high rpm and it's quite a bit more exciting like that than a slow idling engine with momentary high rpm by controlling it! It's the first impression that's gets'em excited so instant full blast always works. just my $0.02 on it.

BEFORE smashing them with a hammer! The best way to learn in my opinion is to just keep at it. You'll figure out what works and what doesn't but it can easily get frustrating at times.

Glad you got her going. To me it sounds like it might've been flooding. Carb needle opened too far. If the seals are leaking too much it will be difficult to dial in the carb. Sometimes you can get them to start easy but not run right and/or run right but not start easy. Once you get playing around with these enough, you'll learn quickly.

Think the Lubriplate will still work even if you did run it hard. I use it in the front worm gear gearbox on my tractor's 2 stage snow blower instead of gear oil. There's also a product called Corn Head grease which is made for John Deere for using in gearboxes for leaking seals.

I fill mine with the Lubriplate grease. It stays thick enough not to leak out any questionable seals but thin enough not to restrict movement of the gears with friction. My thought being that the drill isn't being used daily or even hard so for display, there's not much risk and there is still enough lubricant to run and operate it once in a while.

The screw stop is the adjustment for running speed along with the governor adjustment if so equipped. 2 Strokes run at higher rpm and O&R compacts high end is typically 6000 rpm (I believe but maybe David can verify this?) The rpm can be adjusted by that governor adjustment thingy you needed a spring for and the screw to push open the throttle. not sure of your experience with 2 strokes but they do run fast and loud! Which is part of the reason why I like'm! Post a video if you can

@Webhead Joe posted a technique using a blown up balloon attached to the exhaust manifold to check and test crank seal leakage. A 2 stroke engine needs the case sealed to perform properly, not saying it won't start and run with leaking seals as I have many that do. But, any engine that gets pulled apart, you might as well do the seals. Much easier for me as I have a stash of parts but just thought I'd throw this out there. Easier starting and you can adjust the carb without the engine "wondering" between good performance and bad at different RPM. More critical on anything with a throttle control because of the idling to full rpm. . I might have some gearbox gaskets too but... If you're going to get into taking these things completely apart then do yourself a favor and get a diversified stash of gasket materials, a good set of sharp scissors and some hole punches. Make your own gaskets which will save a lot of time and the initial expense will pay for itself fairly quick.