Wallfish

Original post by usedtoolman. "If I recall there is one more factor on the needle setting. If you have a slotted needle the setting is 1/2 turn as opposed to 1-1/4 for the non grooved needle." Also see the last post in the carb tutorial thread. The other screw limits the butterfly and will need to be adjusted with the engine running

Seems like you need a 16 hp engine

PTO "Bell" is a slang word for us Americans but just figured you would get the idea because of the cracks in a cast part. "Housing-Clutch" is the term used in the parts diagrams for that part. What do you guys call it?

That's not a 551 but looks more like a 1960 550. The 551 used a 2pc trans case and the hood was different among other things. Lots of things point towards a 1960, the hood, trans and foot rests. Another confirmation would be the clutch/brake pedal. A 551 should have a cast pedal and the 1960 would have a bent steel pedal. The two 1960 tractors (400 & 550) were identical except for the engine and the electric start components. The 550 had an electric start Lauson/Tecumseh and the 400 used a pull start Kohler K91. The export tractors could be a little different configuration but I believe these early models were all the same.

*** WARNING *** WARNING *** WARNING *** What ever you do, do NOT use that PTO bell. That thing will grenade on you and it won't be pretty. Very Very dangerous to use that!!!!!!

It only takes a couple of collectors to want it more than each other until one gives up. The guy who posted about a Homelite XL-120 circular saw here, finally listed it on Epay and it went for over $1300. I was in at half that and couldn't believe it went that high. I guess you never know.

The guy replied back about having a "Family Disagreement" concerning the saw and may re-list it.

Posted mine in this topic It's actually a Lapidary saw for cutting rocks and stones but can certainly be used for tile and other applications. Didn't think I'd ever see another one!

Agree with Stormin. Pull the flywheel and check that key. or Bad gas maybe? I'll get some good pics of those engine pages for you this weekend, Sorry about that, it slipped my mind

Lee, I need an email address to send those files if you still want them

I'm assuming this is a 20A engine. Here is a diagram of what I have. Let me know if you would like a better copy with a parts list and I can email one to you.

:WMOM:Racer59 Unfortunately I have never run any of my glow plug engines because I don't have the fuel. The RC engines are just part of my collection. I'm sure a local hobby shop which sells RC nitro fuel can help you with the correct fuel to use. The carb setting will need to be adjusted with the engine running to get the best performance for each condition it is running in. To initiate the start with a glow plug, you will need to attach a 6v battery to the glow plug. This will heat the little coil inside the plug to ignite the fuel and then the battery connection is removed. The combustion of the fuel will keep that little coil hot enough to keep the engine running without the battery.

Unfortunately I don't have much experience with those engines and only own one, which I have never taken apart. I'll search through my documentation to try and find a size but may only find a part #. I would suggest you send a PM to member Webhead.(Joe Weber) He's not as active on here as he used to be but he might have the rings.You can also contact him through eBay as he has quite a few items up for sale now under Ohlsson Rice. His name on there is amcweb

PM sent. The 120s are not as common as the XL-100.

Also have this Cutoff saw grinder. Same idea as the XL-100G but this is an attachment to the chainsaw compared to a specific manufactured tool.

Found another tool for the collection. A Homelite XL-100G-1A. Basically the same as an XL-100 circular saw but with a grinder wheel instead of a saw blade but doesn't come with flat guide to ride on. Not in the best of condition concerning the paint but this is the only one I've ever seen so...

Over here we can get can openers which cut the bead around the lid and not the lid. Imagine you guys can get them too. After repairs you can just solder around the edge and file it smooth. Once painted no one would ever notice. You're right about someone getting that deal. If it was listed under Ohlsson & Rice it would've sold for $350+

Have not found a similar substitute yet. I'm sure there's something out there but just haven't seen it yet. Try contacting Webhead (Joe Weber) to see if he has any tanks.

VERY NICE!!!!!! And one of the coolest looking O&R tools out there. They are very rare and difficult to find over here too. I got lucky and bought one from Webhead and have only seen one other for sale so far. Appears those two should clean up real nice.

Email sent The Ohlsson & Rice section of this forum has been linked all around the net on US sites and some international sites as well. It is the only active forum on the entire net (as of now anyway) for O&R compact engines so posting stuff for sale on here is still an excellent way to reach other collectors. Our old site, before we moved here, had many members from around the world although most were from the US. I just wanted to let any other potential members who are interested in O&R engines know this.

How about this one? Put it on Youtube

Actually got it going alot quicker than I thought it would take. It will still need some minor tweaking and some grease but here's another video shaking a tree. http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt316/wallfish1/th_tree%20shaking%20vid.mp4

While inspecting the Harvester engine, I found it must have been stored in a damp area for a long time as it had some issues so a semi rebuild was in order. New rings, gaskets and seals with a thorough cleaning of all the roller bearings and a carb rebuild. Got it all back together and here's a short video of the first test run. Started up and ran but died out. Still need to adjust the carb and change the fuel as I run it heavy on oil for the first fire up. Steve sent the pole and tree jaw so hopefully I can get it all together this weekend and shake a tree. I'll post another video of it in operation. http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt316/wallfish1/th_Harvester%20video.mp4

Left upright is used for the hydraulic fluid reservoir.

Looks good so far but you may be right about the arms being a little long. Keeping it tight to the front will require less weight in the rear plus a better turning radius. Here are some basic plans to help some with the design and maybe give some ideas. http://myoldmachine.com/files/category/3-large-uploads/ I have a factory Ark loader and can get you any measurements or pics if you want them.