Anglo Traction

If Neil hasn't got one, I have a clean '74' Black Tank I keep as a spare (not under my bed), but am prepared to part with it for a good cause. It needs a new rubber Bush and specific Fuel Tap. I also have the fixing wire and can make you up a retaining spring. You will most likely have to make the centre hole in the Tank Plate base a little bigger and drill an extra 1/8" diameter hole, otherwise it will fit straight on. To give you an idea, I can obtain the new Fuel Tap and Bush from the U.S for about £22 total.

Sorry for the delay. When you close in view on a place on Google Earth, sometimes there are earlier images available of a specific area. In this case if you close in on Hawkhurst and Gill's Green, you will see a small clock appear in the bottom left corner (outlined in red by me) Click on that and it will produce a Slide Bar at the top of your image and this will give you periods in time of any images Google hold. Many of the images date from 1940 for obvious reasons. Here is an example of what to look for-

Shame it had to go. Like the old photo. All good stuff. As it happens, you can see the old Wood Yard and Railway layout if you home in on Gills Green with Google Earth and change the image to 1960. Look's like the Garden Centre was like an Orchard then.

No problem. An Illustrated Parts List for the early mid 60s Models are pretty elusive. I only found a few Parts lists without the views. Main U.S Model was the 606 (1966), which was fitted with an HH60 Techy Engine (6hp). The 8** series Models had the Kohler K181 (8hp) versions. I suspect that as usual, the Annual Model changes in the U.S left a lot of unsold Units and surplus Engines, so they put the remainder of their K161T engines(7hp) into the 606 Frames called them 706 and shipped them abroad. The last U.S. Model to have the K161T fitted was in 1964 on the 704. That 706 is in good condition, albeit repainted and not original, it deserves a proper Fuel Cap. If it was mine, I'd pay the money for one to have the Tractor complete again (and running).............................Would be good to know what he decides and when it gets sold. Regards.

That is a big challenge!. 706 model doesn't show up anywhere, but I looked up 877 (similar), the part number was 5186 superseded by 55-4700. Both discontinued. If a used one can be found, it would be like finding a Pearl in a Restaurant Oyster !. The remaining option would be to look for one that fits a classic Harley Davidson, as it was a Generic manufactured part used on many other applications. Guys in the U.S have used this route to obtain a Cap for similar models 64-67 ish. If it's allowed?, an example Cap that could possibly fit is in this -Link-, but dimensions would need to be checked first with the seller.........assuming he would be prepared to pay the price!. Best I can offer. Shame the Blue Traction Engine is 'Out of Shot'.

Assembled the refurbished Mule Drive unit today. Bit of a state initially, but cleaned up ok with Blasting and Etch Primer. Added brass tube spacer to keep the Tension Bars correctly spaced- Fitted good quality bearings- Another job done. Ready to fit-

Afraid I know nothing about Gurtner Carbs or Mag engines. However, I do seem to be able to dig deep into the Interweb to find info. If it helps-.....This -LINK- will take you to another Forum and the Guy who goes by the Username of Trusty220 on it seems to be about the most knowledgeable person around on your Engine type. The link goes to a Thread that discusses the same issue you have. Regards

Thanks, Deck look's excellent !. I use the same methods to locate parts and search all the other WH Model IPLs to crosscheck for parts as when I did the 2 Tractors. There is always someone selling a part that they don't know fully what it is and will fit. Many generic parts/items like Hi Pro Keys for example are traceable using the makers Part # and the cross over numbers to other Products like MTD/Ariens that list the same parts with their own numbers. New Blades are the main purchase (sorted). I've stripped this Deck down to the bare shell now and (Stormin/Norm) I'm happy with all the Bearings/Spindles & Housings. Thought I may have to replace one Pulley, but changed my mind when I found out how much a new one is!. I'm making things like 'Special Washers' that are needed Had to get a 1 1/8"AF thin spanner (used/cheap) and a Socket for when I pull the old Blades. Spindles for this are rare now. Found one NOS up for nearly £100 + shipping!. Fortunately these feel pretty good so far. I will replace one worn Hi Pro Key which will remove the small amount of Torque Slack on one of them. Shell is really solid and had been coated with an 'Underseal' of some kind, possibly soon after initial purchase c 1980. Bolts were refitted the wrong way at some point though, hence having some difficulty with freeing them off. ....Pulled about 2 kgs of stones etc from inside the 2 Baffle Boxes and have found 2 small areas to weld up in them. The Anti Scalp Roller (original) is so worn because the Spindle Rod end had been swaged and welded to the Brackets !!... couldn't get it off to replace?...... I have a plan for an alternative roller. Will use Stainless for fixings on Deck reassembly. Good to know 'Make do and Mend' is still comprehensively practiced . Any Pics of your Shaft Drive Deck build?. Seems I have the advantage and luck of time and a reasonable Deck. I will have some parts to fabricate and repair on the Carrier/Lift Frame, mostly turning,drilling and metal 'build-up' welding work. Meanwhile, it's scraping and cleaning time. Regards.

Ah!....I now know where to go for advice from an expert then . Already found an 'iffy' Spindle/Pulley/Hi-Pro key fit on one Spindle Castel (possible cause being Pulley Nut loose ). Many Nut & Bolt Bodges too. All but 2 of them undid ok. Problem is having to buy costly parts in from U.S as they're unobtainable over here. Overall so far, not as bad as I had expected.

If the Tank look's like this Rex, it may be difficult to find one- It may be possible to use one from the slightly later models of 72-ish which are similar, except for the Strap and possibly the Fuel Tap. That style should be much more common.

This has been propped up against the wall in my garage since 2010 and came with the Raider/C-120. Need to get this up and running, so I dragged it out for a quick check/inspection- Not a lot of meat left on that anti scalp Roller!. All solid Shell with no weld repairs and all free moving parts. Bearings are smooth tight and have been well greased. Needs new Blades, Roller and a few bolts. Carrier Frame needs some work, so will take time out from the Traction Engine and take advantage of good late summer weather. May have to replace the Deck Wheels as well, several chunks of rubber missing!. Nearly finished the Mule Drive.

Yep AF imperial spanner sizes and UNC UNF Thread forms

Hello Rex, Welcome. I'm sure one of us can sort one for you. One point needs to be clarified though. I can't find any record of a 1969 Raider 10 model number?................Edit - sorry, just found it. 69 Raider 10 should have a Model # of 1-6041?. I'll look it up. There is a Raider 12 and a Charger 10 Auto. Can you post your Model Number from the Black Tag on the Hoodstand?. So we know what style Tank you need.

Thanks Alain, but I do have a prettier one on the C-120 which will get the same TLC and a Drain Tap !.

Little bit of a delay with tidying up this job. After having the Muffler Glass Beaded, I ended up with about 30 pin holes to weld up and smooth off. Got it all fitted ready and all I could get was a few Firing Revs and it just kept dying?. Checked it all over again with a Spark Tester (ok) as I was getting fuel ok and had fitted a new genuine Kohler Fuel Filter to eradicate any air locks. . Checked the Coil (original) again and found that the Ohms resistance reading had dropped from 13 to 8.65 (when cold) since I last did it (1st Aug)!. So it wasn't the Pump or Carb, it was the old Coil slowly and inconsistently breaking down. Fortunately back in 2009, I bought a used good spare that came off a much later Kohler. Checked it again before fitting and gave 3.6 Ohms on the Primary and 13.45 on the secondary circuit. Found it had 5mm threads on the +/- Posts and struggled to find some nuts n spring washers in my predominantly Imperial workshop. All fitted up and showing the Spacer 'tween the Carb n Intake- The old 30+ year old Spark Plug is still clean and good, but I have fitted a new RH10C to ensure all is ok when I tune it up. So I have now got it back up and running and presently resetting the Idle and Max speeds using the Laser Tacho - Soon as it is running sweet, I'll pull the Carb and refit/tune the original.......Got there in the end!...... and I've found I cannot believe something is good/ok, even when it has been checked!.

Engine build date is 1976 Norm. User and Parts Manual are *here* for it. I have a Briggs W/Shop Manual for any Torque/Gap Settings, procedures etc if you need them. Engine Models 100000/130000 have no Flywheel Puller facility, so Koen is correct with the Flywheel procedure. If you are doing it alone, gently tap 2 wooden wedges 'tween the Flywheel n Alloy Case just enough to take up Crank end play (a few thou). Hit opposite sides of the Flywheel simultaneously with Soft faced/covered hammers until it is free. Condition of the Flywheel/Shaft Key is important. If you need any help locating parts, drop me a PM.

Just read your whole thread Ewan. Exceptional work standard. Vast array of practical skills required/acquired in these projects. You can be rightly proud of your effort (bet your Dad is as well ). Tractor looks as good as new!........ What's next then ?.

Hi Norm, I remember seeing that and others when I visited John and Alan last year. Glad to see you may have a use for it. Can you post your Engine Model and Serial numbers off of the Blower Housing please?. Good to be able to meet and have a brief chat with you at RPT .

Yeah, Nigel. Every one a winner !. The Mr N Holder look's in fine fettle

I'll bear you in mind Norm, have someone already drooling over it amongst loads of other parts, so have to give him the option first. I've had a spacer on my C-120 since I finished it. As it runs so nicely anyway, I may not notice it when this one starts up?. Thanks Ian, now I've got myself reasonably sorted out, I'll arrange to pay you a visit. Will PM you, and I may well show up this weekend!. Regards

Weather Forecast is for a warm/hot, dry weekend !, Hopefully not a Plough Breaker Norm !. May pop down for a day?.

I had a feeling you would be 'Out in Front' on this concept Mark . I knew I could rely on you to sort it!. I had long been wondering about the practicalities of using an old Scythe Drive/Blade as you have now done. Overcoming the Drive linkage to the 'Opposite' side and having a Lift Linkage was a problem, but looking at your results, it gets the job done. Well done. Regards.

Very nice acquisition Nigel, I seem to recall seeing those pics of the original Owner in another Post on here a while back. Good to see all the attachments, which I understand are uncommon.

Thanks Mark, been busy and had problems with Supporter renewal . Got some catching up to do. Hi Norm, Yep, I remember them being discussed. Great as you and Iain say for low placed Tanks. Both of mine are Dash Mounted Tanks (pre 76), so have the benefit of a little gravity. I only need to prime the fuel system when I replenish it after winter storage, so my cunning plan of a drain tap also allows me to refill from that Drain Tap- I fixed it at the lowest point and out of the way. I have a small Model Aircraft Fuel Pump that I can connect to the tap, and with the Fuel Tank Valve closed, I can route new fuel to the Pump and Carb. I can then open the Tank Valve and pump fuel up past the Filter (where there is always a bit of an Air Lock) until it reaches the Tank. This way, I remove all the air from the system. Well, that's the plan anyway. The little Fuel Tap needed a few mods, i.e. machining the Inlet Spigot Barbs and tapping it to a size that will fit into some thick walled copper tube to make the 'T' piece. Bit of a challenge setting it up in the Lathe- New Pump is on ready. The old pump is still ok! and can only assume the oil residue is Redex that I add to the Fuel (no smell of fuel in the Crankcase Oil) . I suppose nearly 7 years will naturally cause some to settle there from Fuel evaporation via the Bowl vent. Anyway, just waiting on the Muffler and then check it out and adjust. The old original Carb is done ready, so I will put it back on this Tractor and will sell the Spare rebuilt Carb - One thing you can't see is the addition of a 1/4" thick spacer between the Carb and Inlet mounting face. I had a spare unused one (Paxolin) from an old Gasket set. These are fitted to some later engines and are supposed to reduce heat transference to the Carb and it lengthens the Inlet distance which allows the fuel to vaporise better before entering the Cylinder. We shall see how much better this engine runs with it. Regards

Having rescued my Raider back in 2009, I gave the engine a quality Top End overhaul amongst the full Tractor refurb work. I thought I should just give it a check over and flush the Fuel system as well (I haven't cleaned the engine either)- It's always been good starting and running, but because I didn't sort the Throttle Shaft wear at the time, it has occasionally shown signs of uneven running. On removal of the Carb, I found very little rubbish in the Bowl and a tiny globule of water (2mm ball bearing size) I found traces of oil residue around the Carb inlet Choke Plate area and so I suspect the diaphragm in the Pump may be on it's way out. Having already played it safe, I had ordered 2 replacement Fuel Pumps to service both Tractors and as some of you may recall my Thread on Redsquare covering the Full #26 Carb rebuild, I shall be fitting that (on right in lower pic) while I rebuild the old one (original Muffler is going away for Bead Cleaning and I'll repaint it) . While I'm at it, I shall fit a Fuel drain point in the system so I can empty it for over wintering storage and to Prime the system again. Should save fiddling around trying to get fuel through.