Anglo Traction

Hello Rex, Welcome. I'm sure one of us can sort one for you. One point needs to be clarified though. I can't find any record of a 1969 Raider 10 model number?................Edit - sorry, just found it. 69 Raider 10 should have a Model # of 1-6041?. I'll look it up. There is a Raider 12 and a Charger 10 Auto. Can you post your Model Number from the Black Tag on the Hoodstand?. So we know what style Tank you need.

Thanks Alain, but I do have a prettier one on the C-120 which will get the same TLC and a Drain Tap !.

Little bit of a delay with tidying up this job. After having the Muffler Glass Beaded, I ended up with about 30 pin holes to weld up and smooth off. Got it all fitted ready and all I could get was a few Firing Revs and it just kept dying?. Checked it all over again with a Spark Tester (ok) as I was getting fuel ok and had fitted a new genuine Kohler Fuel Filter to eradicate any air locks. . Checked the Coil (original) again and found that the Ohms resistance reading had dropped from 13 to 8.65 (when cold) since I last did it (1st Aug)!. So it wasn't the Pump or Carb, it was the old Coil slowly and inconsistently breaking down. Fortunately back in 2009, I bought a used good spare that came off a much later Kohler. Checked it again before fitting and gave 3.6 Ohms on the Primary and 13.45 on the secondary circuit. Found it had 5mm threads on the +/- Posts and struggled to find some nuts n spring washers in my predominantly Imperial workshop. All fitted up and showing the Spacer 'tween the Carb n Intake- The old 30+ year old Spark Plug is still clean and good, but I have fitted a new RH10C to ensure all is ok when I tune it up. So I have now got it back up and running and presently resetting the Idle and Max speeds using the Laser Tacho - Soon as it is running sweet, I'll pull the Carb and refit/tune the original.......Got there in the end!...... and I've found I cannot believe something is good/ok, even when it has been checked!.

Engine build date is 1976 Norm. User and Parts Manual are *here* for it. I have a Briggs W/Shop Manual for any Torque/Gap Settings, procedures etc if you need them. Engine Models 100000/130000 have no Flywheel Puller facility, so Koen is correct with the Flywheel procedure. If you are doing it alone, gently tap 2 wooden wedges 'tween the Flywheel n Alloy Case just enough to take up Crank end play (a few thou). Hit opposite sides of the Flywheel simultaneously with Soft faced/covered hammers until it is free. Condition of the Flywheel/Shaft Key is important. If you need any help locating parts, drop me a PM.

Just read your whole thread Ewan. Exceptional work standard. Vast array of practical skills required/acquired in these projects. You can be rightly proud of your effort (bet your Dad is as well ). Tractor looks as good as new!........ What's next then ?.

Hi Norm, I remember seeing that and others when I visited John and Alan last year. Glad to see you may have a use for it. Can you post your Engine Model and Serial numbers off of the Blower Housing please?. Good to be able to meet and have a brief chat with you at RPT .

Yeah, Nigel. Every one a winner !. The Mr N Holder look's in fine fettle

I'll bear you in mind Norm, have someone already drooling over it amongst loads of other parts, so have to give him the option first. I've had a spacer on my C-120 since I finished it. As it runs so nicely anyway, I may not notice it when this one starts up?. Thanks Ian, now I've got myself reasonably sorted out, I'll arrange to pay you a visit. Will PM you, and I may well show up this weekend!. Regards

Weather Forecast is for a warm/hot, dry weekend !, Hopefully not a Plough Breaker Norm !. May pop down for a day?.

I had a feeling you would be 'Out in Front' on this concept Mark . I knew I could rely on you to sort it!. I had long been wondering about the practicalities of using an old Scythe Drive/Blade as you have now done. Overcoming the Drive linkage to the 'Opposite' side and having a Lift Linkage was a problem, but looking at your results, it gets the job done. Well done. Regards.

Very nice acquisition Nigel, I seem to recall seeing those pics of the original Owner in another Post on here a while back. Good to see all the attachments, which I understand are uncommon.

Thanks Mark, been busy and had problems with Supporter renewal . Got some catching up to do. Hi Norm, Yep, I remember them being discussed. Great as you and Iain say for low placed Tanks. Both of mine are Dash Mounted Tanks (pre 76), so have the benefit of a little gravity. I only need to prime the fuel system when I replenish it after winter storage, so my cunning plan of a drain tap also allows me to refill from that Drain Tap- I fixed it at the lowest point and out of the way. I have a small Model Aircraft Fuel Pump that I can connect to the tap, and with the Fuel Tank Valve closed, I can route new fuel to the Pump and Carb. I can then open the Tank Valve and pump fuel up past the Filter (where there is always a bit of an Air Lock) until it reaches the Tank. This way, I remove all the air from the system. Well, that's the plan anyway. The little Fuel Tap needed a few mods, i.e. machining the Inlet Spigot Barbs and tapping it to a size that will fit into some thick walled copper tube to make the 'T' piece. Bit of a challenge setting it up in the Lathe- New Pump is on ready. The old pump is still ok! and can only assume the oil residue is Redex that I add to the Fuel (no smell of fuel in the Crankcase Oil) . I suppose nearly 7 years will naturally cause some to settle there from Fuel evaporation via the Bowl vent. Anyway, just waiting on the Muffler and then check it out and adjust. The old original Carb is done ready, so I will put it back on this Tractor and will sell the Spare rebuilt Carb - One thing you can't see is the addition of a 1/4" thick spacer between the Carb and Inlet mounting face. I had a spare unused one (Paxolin) from an old Gasket set. These are fitted to some later engines and are supposed to reduce heat transference to the Carb and it lengthens the Inlet distance which allows the fuel to vaporise better before entering the Cylinder. We shall see how much better this engine runs with it. Regards

Having rescued my Raider back in 2009, I gave the engine a quality Top End overhaul amongst the full Tractor refurb work. I thought I should just give it a check over and flush the Fuel system as well (I haven't cleaned the engine either)- It's always been good starting and running, but because I didn't sort the Throttle Shaft wear at the time, it has occasionally shown signs of uneven running. On removal of the Carb, I found very little rubbish in the Bowl and a tiny globule of water (2mm ball bearing size) I found traces of oil residue around the Carb inlet Choke Plate area and so I suspect the diaphragm in the Pump may be on it's way out. Having already played it safe, I had ordered 2 replacement Fuel Pumps to service both Tractors and as some of you may recall my Thread on Redsquare covering the Full #26 Carb rebuild, I shall be fitting that (on right in lower pic) while I rebuild the old one (original Muffler is going away for Bead Cleaning and I'll repaint it) . While I'm at it, I shall fit a Fuel drain point in the system so I can empty it for over wintering storage and to Prime the system again. Should save fiddling around trying to get fuel through.

Now that my Username has turned green again, I can post a few progress pics. Much of the work is hidden like machining Keyway slots in the shafts, but finished the Damper Rod Control Lever and the Oil Boxes for the Axle bearings- Set the positions of Gears on the Selector and drilled the quadrant for the locking pin. Finished the Coal Bunker Division Plate with the addition of a Sluice Door (sorry it's out of focus, but the depth of field is shallow)- ( Tiny Caps made for the various 'Oiler Cups' (used an old Flint Lighter Wheel for the miniature Knurling)- Just 2 more to make for the Second Shaft and trim the Gear Cover for access- Obtained the Pressure Gauge (0-100psi). real Watchmaker stuff this is, it is only 1/2" diameter (12.7mm)!. Closest to scale that is possible and still work properly- Just finishing off some Steering modifications to the front end generally known as the 'Spud Ring' and Pan which is another deviation from the original design- It's making a nice change playing with the Machines/Tooling and making the parts, but still loads to do.

I've seen worse!............and refurbished a few like that. Plenty of 'Grass Miles' (sorry- kilometres) in those wheels yet !. One Man's junk is another Man's emplyoment . Is he going to want you to use it when you've finished it Koen?.

Don't know how old your engine is Gareth, but it look's like the low 250-650cc original early Jap engines onwards used the same size Exhaust Flange Nut?. I don't know if Villiers made any chnges ?. Could the TPI be 20?. and the outer dia across the threads be 2" or 50.8mm (actual). If so, then the Thread form could be BSF (0.0500" pitch and thread height of 0.032". This will give a Core dia (or Tapping diameter) of 1.937" (49.2mm). There appears to be a worldwide search by many for used versions, as the price of a new (manufactured) one is silly money. See this link where the numbers seem to merge ok if 20 tpi- http://de.vintage-motorcycle.com/index.php?language=en&site=4&pid=24&id=26427&limit=0 They can be made!.

Hi Gareth, your right that it is not the standard BSP size, as everything (normally) over nominal 1" is 11TPI. I presume the inclusive thread angle is 55 degrees?. Is the Outlet a threaded insert, or part of a Casting?. I'm wondering if they machine cut the thread to a special size. A picture would be good if you can provide one.

If one of the bushes you require is #28 in Mark's diagram above, I may be able to help. If I remember rightly, that Bronze Bushing is 1/2" bore x 9/16" x 3/4" flange (part nbr 6229). I need to make one myself . If you need others like PTO Lever Rod bushes or the Fender Seat pivot bushes on the earlier models (different sizes and part nbrs), I also have made these for my Tractors. I'll have to check my stock of Gunmetal Bronze, but sure I have enough to make a few more. Send me a PM of you need any more help.

Pm Sent.

Thanks.. Will be good to get them working under steam again. I'm sure you'll do all the safety checks first with old engines. Often the rubber seals like on the Sight Glass are perished and suspect the Seals/Glands on the Piston, Valve and Regulator Rods may need checking. They were likely packed with Graphited Yarn. Not sure how/if Norm's Dad's Engine had the Steam Oil administered for the Piston and Valve?, as I can't see a lubrication system in the pics. Hope the book helps. Some engines like to have a mix of Coal and Charcoal, or just the latter to produce good heat. Also the Grate gaps size can be the cause, or so I have read!. Done a little more on mine. Made up all the Pipe work and fittings for the Water Pump-

Yes Neil and thanks all. Used the 'Accessories' Drawings from a 1 1/2" Scale Alchin TE design for dimensions and reduced them all by 2/3rds, as well as the Fowler style Lamps etc . Got to make spanners and sockets for the tiny nuts and bolts yet. Your Father's (very nice example) Engine is a Henry Greenly design Norm. I believe it was published in 1933 in Model Engineer Mag. Based on a Road Tractor design like the Ramsomes (solid Flywheel and Canopy). Shame you had to part company with it, but I may have the same issue at some stage. I've used Len Mason's Minnie TE design and Castings. I've heavily altered the design to represent an 1890's version and increased the detail (some may say foolishly with the extra work involved). Yes I do, I have the Book by John Haining on Model T.E. Construction and I have L,C Mason's book on Construction of my engine. Both include Chapters on setting the Valve Timing, running and maintaining them. Will look to acquire some good Welsh Steam Coal from a Local Model Rail Club when I'm ready. Good thing is, I went and bought a professionally built Boiler back in 1985, so I have a Proper Boiler Certificate for it. Wasn't competent enough, or had the equipment to make my own at the time...really bumps up the value though !. Regards

Looking to finish this 'Mothballed' 1 inch Scale design TE project while I still only need the occasional use of a weak Magnifying Glass !., so it's top of the jobs list now. I've been recently making loads of small Nuts and Bolts for parts that were temporarily fitted. Smallest size is 0.0669" (1.62mm) AF Steel hexagon rod with 12BA thread. The metal plate in the Pic is one of 3 Oil Lamp brackets that require these small bolts-