Anglo Traction

Sorry, won't let me post images any more. It has allowed me to upload Manuals, so, assuming you don't have either of these, I've posted both the Illustrated Parts List and Operators Manual for 1975 C Series. Will cover nearly all (or should do) of your Model. Part (Belt Cover) is shown in Figure 8 of parts Man. How to adjust Belt Tabs/Guides for clearance is on page 16 (fig22) of the Operators Manual. Regards.

Good progress on your project. Hate to be the bringer of an issue (if you haven't already spotted it), but I feel you will have problems with the Clutch/Drive disengagement from the engine. Assuming you have repaired the Clutch Idler issue I mentioned previously, I noticed you are also missing the essential Top Tab on the Belt Cover Panel that controls the drive belt tension on the Engine pulley. It needs to be there to release the Belt engagement when the clutch is operated/depressed.

If you are restoring back to original spec , rather than a refurbish, I presume you will be removing those Drive Belt Control bodges. If you need to know what was there originally to control the Clutch/Belt operation, use this link to my images and dimensions of the missing bit that is welded to the Clutch Idler Pulley Arm - http://s1190.photobucket.com/user/AngloTraction/library/OddsnSods?sort=3&page=2 Good luck with your project

There's a few images that may also help in this thread- http://myoldmachine.com/topic/1675-kohler-k-series-starter-motor-issues/

May have been better to post this in the Forum's Engines Section (O&R) section. The guys in the U.S, will be best placed to offer advice. Edit=== I now see it was

Glad the previous info helped you. Not much to go on, but this Site has a wealth of info on All Chainsaws if you have a few hours to kill surfing the InterWeb. This link will take you directly to the Spec details of your model (if you don't know them already). ....Image is not very helpful with decals. http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/a2116b63e2416f7a88256b4e0065068f?OpenDocument

Just wondering about that myself. From your pics Stephan, the bore look's reasonable with a bit of carbon scoring here and there. Most of that Valve corrosion is from Atmospheric moisture from non use with the valves open. . The Crankcase Oil seal on the output side where your stubborn Coupling is look's dry, so no leaks or worn bearing issues yet. If the Oil that comes out of (if any) the Crankcase is not emulsified with water, then to get an idea of 'Big End' wear you could use a Dial Indicator on the Piston top and checking the amount of Crank rotation before registering any movement just to satisfy your curiosity. Flush the Crankcase, or just replenish with fresh Oil. All the Valve work and Valve Chest/Breather clean should be able to be/can be done without Crankcase invasion. So you may at least leave the Coupling on the Shaft for the time being in order to get the engine running ?. I don't know if you have applied any Penetrating Oil to that Coupling (look's dry in your pic), but it would be the first thing to do and leave it to soak. I see evidence of previous attempts to bash the Coupling off by the lip nearest the Crankcase in the same pic. If you succeed in getting the engine to run ok, then using the machine will/should assist in loosening that well oiled coupling a tad should you need to disturb it again. Only suggestions to minimise initial evaluation............... If it runs ok, you can always take it down for a big service later!.

I know what it's like Alan, same here where really sad unfortunate events affect people and you have to change your direction. Got to lose some of my 'Fold' and downsize this year as well. 1/2 size sounds a good project .

If you haven't found a Manual yet, here is a link (virus checked) from a reliable site- http://www.asos1.com/tecumseh4hp/Tecumseh.pdf You'll have to search for the Carb data/part lists, as I can't find that Dellorto Carb version listed in the Engine Manual or the separate Carb Manual. That's why I had a problem recognising the strange Filter set up. Not familiar with these later 'Built under License' versions. Only familiar with Earlier U.S. 'H' series Engines and Lauson Carbs. Plenty of Info on FHC 2013a out there though. Hope you find what you need and get it sorted and working.

'S' ........Couldn't resist it!. Seriously though. I seem to find that people/sellers don't use the 'S' when they're flogging Aftermarket parts. However Kohler for example use/d the same part number suffix system of using '-S' , and earlier with prefix of 'A- and X-' . This 'S' Suffix letter was dropped on many later revisions retaining the same number or an updated one. Usually just entering the numbers in a 'Search' will show results with the suffix as well.

Welcome Stephan (Like your Username meaning ). Nice Project there, a few parts to obtain I see. I tend to also suspect it is a Techy Engine with an unusual Air Filter?. Carbureter on them can be a challenge to set on some versions, but Engine Manual is available to download and some parts still available. Look forward to seeing it running and working.

It is still in a Field Building down in Sussex. I'm hoping to get it and several other machines out and up to my workshop this Spring when I can find some transport. Land is being sold and has no main access yet. Got to make space first (and some money). The Osprey will probably need a good going over again though.

Nice old 70s example there. It reminded me I have one at the stash in Billingshurst. Paint colour I believe is Fern Green. Next time I'm down there, I'll check it out as the cast alloy base and paint is in excellent nick. As for a Muffler, if it's a 3.5hp with 1/2" NPT thread, then a B&S 'Screw In' one should sort it (if you can get the old lock nut undone and the pipe out). Part number would be Briggs & Stratton 89966 .....type that into a search box for lots of buying options.

Been following your dilemmas with this, and after you've tried multiple setups with various parts, I too am thinking along the lines of iffy condenser/connection and/or an Earthing problem. What is confusing me though is the sporadic run/firing you've had, maybe it is an inconsistent Earth/ground fault which prevents a Spark when the plug is fitted. Maybe a copper wire from the Cylinder Head to a good earth point will rule that out?. Best I can offer, as I know nothing about the Engine/Mag version you have. Really hope you find the 'Gremlin' soon to reward your high level of skills, patience and determination on an excellent project .

Superior workmanship there Alan. I'm usually very cautious about using the word Restoration, even on my own projects, but that look's to be a 'Proper Job'

When you get around to looking at it again, for Chainsaw parts, I suggest you try Danarm themselves first?. They may still hold spares for it. As for the Carb, Tillotson made them and the HL version is what should be on your machine. The Model number should be stamped on the Body of the Carb. You can order rebuild kits etc from Tillotson via this link- http://www.tillotson.ie/products-parts.php For service and maintaining the Carb, this will be handy if your not familiar- http://www.eccarburetors.com/pdf/HL%20service%20manual.pdf Also, I recall a member here who collects them, Danarmdave is his username I believe?. he may be able to help.

I've also had problems with delayed isolated reactions under Top Coats from Fillers and Hi build Primers. Never found a reason for it, or why it was so inconsistent. Will be interesting if you get an answer.

No problem. I've used Standard Araldite in the past for mine (plus rivets), but I've read that others have also used Silicone Adhesive or Contact Adhesive. Metal face needs to be super clean and grease free. Air Filter - original part number for K301 spec 47421d was A-235100. Now 235116-S1. Robbed this next info from an Ad ............... Replaces OEM: CASE: C28883 CASE: D66337 CLARK EQUIPMENT: 6518241 Cub Cadet: 385168-R2, Cub Cadet: IH-385168-R2, Cub Cadet: IH-385168-R3 GRAVELY: 010900, GRAVELY: 043954 GRAVELY: 20057700 JOHN DEERE: AM31400 LESCO: 050036 NEW HOLLAND: 251399, NEW HOLLAND: 86546598 TECUMSEH: 32008 TORO: 235116 WISCONSIN: L0194A. ID: 4 5/8 OD: 6 Height: 1 7/8. Armed with all those numbers, a good chance of getting a result local to you. At least you can search online now if no luck. Regards.

As Mark says, plus- There is a compromise with your Tractor. From your pictures, I can tell you that it is mainly a 1972 spec, but with 73> bits fitted (Belgium used up old stock from the U.S. I can only see a single pedal that will operate both the Clutch and the Brake (some serious adjust is required judging by the Peddle angle).....no problem. The main panels are 72, as the gear lever area is open and has the shorter Gear Shift decal plate. From 73> in U.S. They fitted Seat Springs and a slightly longer (1inch) upper Steering Shaft for Knee clearance. Also the PTO Hoop set up you have is '73'>. Dash Panel is difficult to see. A 73 wiring Loom will have a 3 position Ignition Switch, Part number 103990 . A 72 Loom was 4 position and has an Accsr'y position (101917). So best thing to do is pop over to Redsquare via this link, which will take you to the Manuals section and you can download what you need. You need Part/User Manuals for an 1-0311 (72 Raider 12) and Manuals for the 1-0350 (73 12-8psd) - http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/category/9-1973-1977/ Ignore what is on the riveted plate on your Hood/Bonnet, in fact I would remove it. Only thing to bear in mind is the Manuals/Parts Lists and Specs are all for the U.S. Models/Market. As far as I know, there were never any Manuals produced for Belgium Assembled variants. So you have 2 Forums to play with, if you need any help with it.... and I have both 72 Raider 12 and a 74 12hp.

You're correct with the info . 1-0350 is technically a 12hp 8 speed. Belgium continued sticking surplus Raider Decals on them well into 1973 (the shorter Hood/Bonnet decals were from the late 60's Short frame models). So Decals are iffy for basing an I.D for WH here in Europe. The 8 Speed Transmission in it (if original) is likely to be the 5073 model, which was deemed to have a 10 pinion Limited Slip Diff. from 74 onward, they went to the 8 pinion non LSD. Good choice, User/Parts Manuals for Tractor and Tranny are available.