Leaderboard

Thanks Norm. We are currently working on the D-160 and so far have replaced the coil, points, condenser, HT lead, LT wiring and plug. It now has a decent spark and today we will be working on the fuel system.

Well done. Now what about the other two?

Under restoration my Alllen of Oxford low pressure orchard sprayer with original load carrier where the water tank fits it is sitting on an Allen Scythe TS fitted with the larger Villiers engine more photos to follow when machine is under restoration

The paintwork come up well with the T cut Good video yet again

We have the Westwood running and I am pleased with it. Video update:

As far as I know it will be on the same site as 2018

Yes, I believe you’re correct. The flange looks to be part of the casting. When I was first taking this apart I was expecting the flange to be an adaptor plate that was fastened to the induction housing mating surface but was quickly surprised only to find that it is all one piece.

Half a Horse is looking forward to his big brother joining him at the shows.

Confronted with a problem while assessing parts for a current project. A 96 year old carburettor with a damaged, rusted up Mushroom Air Filter- Side angle showing it's firm, seized up attachment to the Carb body- I had given it a dose of my preferred homemade Penetrating Oil brew as I wanted to remove the Filter without damage so I can maybe reuse the threaded Back Plate with a new dome on it. But what to use that would provide a good gripping turn force without damaging it......... Then the light bulb illuminated above my head (no emoji for it). I stopped servicing my own vehicles a few years ago, but I remembered that I had a real good Oil Filter Extractor for use in confined spaces- Gently held the carb in a vise- .... and proceeded to carefully apply an 'undo' force- applied about 20 ft lbs and it freed up and undid- No damage whatsoever. I was then able to finish dismantling the carb for inspection and will be able to make a new cover for the filter. Glad to say that the carb is fully cleaned and serviceable, but not as shiny as it was when new, it was mostly nickel plated.

Yes it is Norm, I like the whole design. Very precise and versatile. Will even atomise paraffin to run an engine (if run on petrol first for 20 seconds). No washers! , all joints are machined tapered fits. Although they were noted for drips, occasional flooding etc, I think if they are carefully cleaned and assembled, they won't do that. Fortunately, I now have a full copy of (c1926) service instructions for these carbs to work with. No secrets or magic Nigel. Most of the stuff I use is found under the kitchen sink. Old worn out green scouring pad (softer). Shiny Sink cream cleaner. White vinegar. Piece of Aluminium for a scraper, old toothbrushes for the outside of carb body. Soft steel/brass wire brushes. Inside- Thinners for cellulose (acetone), tooth and small inter-dental brushes. Old version 'T' cut. Then put some time and elbow grease into it and wash thoroughly in thinners-