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Here is my wife's O&R display at our local show this year. It was before she got the Aquabug boat engine.

It's been a while since I've posted on here, so I thought I would make a new thread about a project that I've started recently and try to update it regularly, hopefully it might be of interest to a few people. This machine is a bit different to most of our collection - it is a little Landmaster Super Deluxe Ride on (I believe is what they were marketed as). I bought this in April this year, having had it pointed out to us by a fellow forum member (thanks again Paul). I barely touched the tractor for a few months due to studying for exams, but since there is a couple of weeks left of the summer holidays and some of our other projects have slowed down I have finally gotten around to looking at this. Here are a couple of pictures of the tractor when we picked it up. This machine was a COVID project for the previous owner, and he made a number of modifications to the tractor. The biggest change is probably the engine swap that it has had. I am under the impression that it originally had a 4hp Briggs in it, but the previous owner said that he struggled to get parts for it, so he swapped in this 5hp model of a similar series. I have used the numbers on the engine tin to date the engine to the 15th of November 1978. From what I've seen from Paul's thread of the restoration of his Landmaster, the tractor itself was made in 1966, so the engine is 12 years younger. The previous owner told me he had it running and driving 18 months before he sold it, so a bit longer now but hopefully the engine will run without many issues. Other modifications include the chute on the side of the deck, which I quickly removed, pneumatic tyres, extensive deck repairs and the handlebars appear to have been cut off, and remounted upside-down using a T-joint. It has also been repainted, with some parts having the wrong colour on it such as the front wheels which should be white, and the engine could do with a lick of paint too, which should be white. The quality of the paint isn't the best, so probably needs some work in future Fast forward to a couple of days ago, when I began to look at this machine in more detail. I removed the handle bars and bonnet to gain better access to the engine, which seemed far more fiddly than it should have - this seems to be a pattern on this machine unfortunately! This wasn't helped by all imperial fixings being replaced with metric bolts of varying sizes. With these parts off I drained the fuel, as on this engine the carb is mounted on the fuel tank such that the tank appears to act as a fuel bowl - plus I didn't fancy pulling old fuel through the fuel system when I checked for a spark. We bought this pump years ago and have never used it for anything, beats syphoning the fuel by nearly drinking it. Glad I did drain it though, I wasn't very keen on how the old fuel looked or the sediment that was suspended in it. With the fuel drained I was happy to pull the engine over, so I used our spark plug tester to check for a spark, and as you can see below it did indeed have a spark so that's one less possible issues While I had the spark plug out (and it was easier to pull over) I took the opportunity to identify what all of the controls do. I don't have access to any sort of manual for the tractor, only for the engine so before this I wasn't sure how everything works. This uncovered a couple of issues, mainly that both the deck and drive belts coming off the engine pulley are not being disengaged enough when the clutch is pushed down, so I need to make some adjustments to allow the belts to slip when the deck is disengaged and the clutch pedal is pushed. The good news is that the brake appears to work, along with the forward-reverse gear change and 1st to 2nd. This is as far as I have got so far, next step is probably going to be lifting the front of the tractor to get access to the belt tensioners on the underside of the machine and making some adjustments. I'll post again if and when I make more notable progress.

Slow progress, but now have a finished rolling chassis that I can assemble the important bits on. Engine was the first bit to go on- Still working on the chain drive and guards on the pump side, with the 'idler'- tensioner set up being the current challenge to design and fit- Clutch Lever has been a problem, but have now finalised the handle shape and will be cut from 10mm thick block of brass. Will also have a lock lever fitted- Lots going on with other things, but will try and improve update regularity. Regards

Making slow progress, hence the belated update. Have been painting, varnishing and making Nuts n Bolts. Sorted the drive chain link problem, so now making up the chain guard wth brackets- Ensuring clearances and fixing points were ok. 2 more lower brackets to make and I can move on to the clutch lever and outer cable fitting. Wheels are now shiney black gloss. Regards

Slow progress lately. Have been pondering over the tank mounting design, but reckon I've found the answer. The cooling fan assembly is now finished and the brass support plates nearly finished- Just finished welding up the Reduction Gear mounting, so can start on prep for painting. Still working on Reserve tank hammering copper before I can finalise the mountings. Fuel tank support mounts shown in this image- Hopefully won't be too long before next update. Regards

Hi All, I am a new member but hope my content is of interest and may inspire others to use their Suffolk punch mowers. I am a fan among other things of Suffolk punch mowers with Suffolk iron foundry engine. I have attached a picture, both of these 75cc mowers are in use, the 14" mower will be refurbished sometime over the next couple of years, the 12" mower has been re-purposed so it has a new life as a scarifier which is what I would like to talk about in a few forthcoming posts. The 75cc iron engine on the 12" has also been slightly modified using my lathe and milling machine, more to follow...

I am making progress on my colt deluxe. Cleaned the carb out, cleaned all electrical connections and replaced the condenser. Got it running but have a fuel leak from the petrol tap to attend to before a test drive. Also been busy prepping and painting a loader to fit on it. 20241030_135437.mp4

A few pics of the collection.

Hope all's well Ewan. Clutch lever done and fitted. Cable was a B+*^h. Very tight job making it up from stainless inner cable and outer sleeve. Nipples made and silver soldered. Managed to retain lots of adjustment take-up on both tensioners- This section is now ready to go on the chassis. Still bugged with decision about fitting tensioner adjustment on the output chain drive?. Regards.

Here's my one in the display shed with the other O&R powered machines (amongst other things)... Paul

Here is her newest addition. It is an Aquabug with the electric conversion. I will get pictures of the electric later.

Have you guys come across this tiny mini bike called a BIG ELEPhANT? It was built in Japan and uses a Tas P7 engine or have seen one with a Tas S22? Here is a photo of the original sales brochure and it has a Big Elephant sitting on the seat of a 1969/70 Honda CB750 which probably dates it pretty well!

While digging around the internet looking for info on the Ouragan and the o&r engine ..... I was lucky enough to find this thread . I also own one of these cars That i bought from a toy collector that did not know what it was. Mine was missing the engine but over all it is very complete . I have located a o&r drill that will likely be the power for the racer. And i will now check the gear box for a number ! Thanks for the shared info you have all ready found. These are pretty scarce I may have found 8 to 10 of them around the world in my searches . some cars trade and go to auction with same number or decals . In 1966 these cars were $1200-1500 when new (a new mustang in 66 was $2500) 1968 Devillaine Ouragan Monoplace " Ferrari " - CLASSIC.COM This is mine after loosely assembling to find out what it looked like ( it was completely taken apart)

Thanks Alan, Been preoccupied with lots of small jobs and pulling together two of the three sections of this project. The middle section (reduction gear unit) has taken a lot of time and work, as it includes the fuel tanks. They are finished, lacquered, mounted and the fuel gauge nestles between them- Still incomplete middle section where I have to make up the cable and lever system for operating the clutch/brake shoes. The last job will be to fill the Reduction gear unit with oil - All the brass/bronze work has been polished and lacquered as assembly progressed, with the exception of the engine cowling, as I now have some clear gloss VHT Lacquer for that. output/fan drive sprocket modified to fit onto a woodruf key and locked in place with a grub screw Finalised the location of the modified throttle lever and cable route, which keeps it neat, tidy and handy location. Lever and cable joints are watertight. Although I will have to change the Carb Air inlet and Choke layout to prevent water ingress- Tempted to start the engine for a run soon to check how it sounds with the exhaust. Has a lovely bright blue spark at the plug and the timing is spot on. Mahogany planks being treated prior to fitting and will be yacht varnished after. Pump drive and location of it is a bit of a headache, but working on it- Regards.

Well, got one done anyway. Took much longer to do than anticipated. I cut some of that blue spring steel I ordered for making the carb springs. The first stuff I ordered was too thick for the carb springs and it finally found a purpose. Sliced a long thin piece off then heated and bent the edge of it into a circle to fit in the dogleg hole. Drilled out the old stuff. Put the new spring in place then dropped solder in. The bubble of solder was big so I also hammered it so it would stay very tight. Filed off the remainder and cut the spring to length. Seems to work well. UGH, only 7 more to go! I like that gun bluing stuff so I'll probably clean them all up and coat them with that too.

Just for everyone's information. I have uploaded the available manual in PDF form for the Hayter Osprey and 21 machines. It's in the orange header line marked DOWNLOADS. Engine data will need to be obtained from the B&S website. Regards

The wire should go to a kill switch button on the handle to shut down the engine by grounding the coil. Location of the switch depends on the model. One port is an air vent. It goes from the bottom of the tank to just inside of the fuel cap. The other port is the fuel feed to the carb. More than likely it will need a new carb diaphragm to run or run correctly. Check the air filter BEFORE trying to start it. If it has that old crusty material inside, it will need to be thoroughly cleaned out. Otherwise it will be sucked into the engine. Not good. If you use the search feature you can find other threads on the Drillgine drills. Here's a link to the search results for "Drillgine" in topics only. There are threads on the early reds and later yellows https://myoldmachine.com/search/?q=drillgine&quick=1&type=forums_topic

Buy it then 😂

Cheers Nigel this is what i did today after sitting back and thinking about it but hey they were a bugger lol.

In 2004 I had 1/4 acre of scrub land to clear. A quick pub conversation yielded 2 scrap 8hp Westwood Gazelles; both quite early machines, one with the underslung exhaust. One working machine was the result, and within a few months it had done the job. I was about to retire, and had a couple of part time start up business's drawn up on paper, but knowing which one to go for was not an easy decision. In the event a third option was sitting in my shed. Post card advertisements in newsagents etc., and a pleasant surprise, or surprises. Within about 6 weeks I had a small grass cutting (not mowing) round, providing an adequate pension top-up, without any outlay. It grew into a 3 day a week business, and kept on going until 2018 when an arthritic knee finally made me stop. Fairly early on I built myself a see-saw trailer, which cut my loading / unloading time from 15 odd minutes to about 3. I started buying "uneconomical to repair" mowers, from a local mower repair business, and ended up with 3 machines, for different ground conditions, plus 1 that was lodged with the customer during the season. Coincidentally, they were all Westwoods, although other makes have yielded back axles. Yes back axles, you could sometimes build up a good one, out of two; not now, it's more like 3 or 4, to get one working again. Today, I have a mid 90's T1800, plus potentially 3 complete machines, out of my grave yard of bits. My 1/4 acre is now 1/2 acre, when a neighbour didn't take up the option of "his" strip of land behind him. I still enjoy mowing, as much as the engineering side. Regards Mike

Re use them if possible. I've reused many without issue if they were not damaged If they were damaged, search "High Temp gasket material" to cut your own. The O ring isn't anything special and can be found with a search for that size as well

I think its an Allen Challenger 22" Rotary Cutter.

Plenty of farcebook groups to cover that

The UK firm of Tarpen were distributors of the Turbair sprayer with O&R power during the 1960's. The firm also produced a Mini engine setup with O&R power that could be used on some of their tools. I have two in my collection at the moment, one on a Tarpen 33 hedge trimmer, the other on a cultivator...

Hi I have just acquired a Q&R 1hp engine with a tarpen flex workhead i am very interested in the chain saw attachment. I'm based in north Somerset Nr Bristol.

RPM at full throttle is 6300 So yeah, they scream a little bit Governor is never "guaranteed" but they seem to work very well. I've never had one fail while the engine is running. It's controlled by the spring on the bottom of the carb. No adjustments are available on those older versions. Newer ones have a lever that can adjust tension on the spring Diaphragm should be soft and pliable for best results. Wrinkles indicate it's probably old and stiff.

Very nice display ! Paul

Anybody have any info on these? Some kind of walk behind chipper with hopper and a separate mulching attachment. Will get some better/more complete photos when I have the chance, recently picked up out of a buddy's old barn. Had to evict a mouse family that laid claim. Flushed the tank, put on a new carb and fuel lines, the 5HP Tecumseh runs great. Drive transmission needs some help grabs both forward/reverse gears but doesn't seem to offer much actual assist.

Hi there, Have an Ohlsson & Rice vintage tether car that I would like to sell. Images attached... No engine. The car is in good nick. Ping me an offer if interested...

Thats very nice I have one of those in the UK, will dig out a photo Paul

Unusual design!. it's based on the Archemedian principle. A bit of searchng Hose manufacturers may well produce what you need. One point about these is that with rubber involved, there needs to be a method of priming with water etc prior to starting up from a dry condition. As for makers info, It may be worth enquiring with the company. Yes, it look's like they are still in business. Here's a link to their 'Timeline' on their website- MONO PUMPS Ltd Good luck. Regards

Hi Sean, you will be able to get the springs you require from www.briggsbits.co.uk

Well, later than planned, I've made much progress on the fuel tanks and the mounts. Still more copper tapping to final size, but nearly there with both tanks. Reserve fuel tap mounting boss finished and light press fit ready for silver soldering shown here- Have been making the straps, platforms and retaining rings., the latter from 1/4' x 1/4" x 1/16" brass angle. cut, bent and silver soldered to produce 18 sided rings- Eventually the concept in my head and on paper materialised into this - Pleased with the strength and rigidity on the base and supports for the tanks (the lines drawn on the copper parts are for more dressing out of irregularities for a better fit. A little fettling of the fit around the upper cradles/straps. Working on the Fuel Gauge parts at the moment. Will then return to the reduction gear unit and final location of it on the chassis

Finished making the (12) 6BA Bronze bolts and brass nuts for the Fan Shaft bearing/grease point housings over the last weekend and now trial assembled on the unit. All good-

Many thanks for the comments. Sorry for being quiet for a while. Have been busy when able. Lots of decision making on design and machine time, but seem to produce little visually. The Tank Cartridges were set up for drilling and tapping. Had to obtain a metre of 10mm studding to make the fixings, as they're quite tall- Luckily the igniter percussion inserts drilled out ok, then tapped both bases 1/8"BSP for the fittings. The fuel taps were done as per previous post, so then just the Air Valve to design and make. Shown in next image on the left- The left one shows the top of the reserve tank and the right shows the base of the main tank. Next job was the fan shaft layout, bearing housings and 'Screw Down Grease Cups'. I had the latter vintage cups, but had to make the housings for them out of cast bronze bar. Made a lot of work for myself milling to shape just to form the platforms to screw the cups into- Finished them on the lathe so that I could fit a short piece of brass tube between them as a seal against water ingress- Cheated a bit with these, as I'm hard soldering them to large flat brass washers to make the flange for bolting through and will match (in size, not colour) the ball bearing housings also machined from solid- So here is the basic assembly/layout of the fan shaft and now about to start on the sprocket mount and fan/blades- Regards

maybe some day I’ll see some

Finished the Fuel Taps. Lots of different set-ups and operations required. Did much of the work while still part of the parent brass rod. Cross drilling 3/8"(9.55mm)- I wanted the tap levers opposed to eachother for access (in the off position), so had to be careful when it came to drilling through with the tapered plugs fitted- . The Tap's cam limit plates had to be soldered together, then to a stub of brass for machining to shape using a rotary table- When as much work as possible was done, I cut them away from the parent bar and 'Silver Soldered' the pipe connection rods to the Tap bodies. All the fiitings are for 3/16" (4.75mm) copper pipe. The tap tapers are 'pulled in' using the correct 'Thackery' coil spring washers and provides just the right amount of resistance- A light polish and just need proper 1/16" Split (cotter) Pins to finish off. Maybe blend the joints. Happy with this first time job for me. Regards

guess it would help to put the gas tank on. ooops! Good thing I looked at the pic on the screen

That's what I thought you meant, just wanted to clarify for others that may read this thread in the future and start searching for a non-existent attachment. Here are some pictures of the inside of the clutch unit for the O&R Tarpen Mini Engine power-head, the rear housing & clutch drum are the OEM parts for this... ... and the rest of the clutch & engine mounting are standard O&R parts. This threaded adaptor fits in the end on the clutch unit, if you have one of these and it's not seized, add some fresh grease to it to prevent this. David

The Tarpen Flex attachments aren't too hard to find, apart from certain ones. Tarpen made PTO units to fit a lot of machinery that used the flexible drive to the attachments, the O&R engine & an electric power head are the only handheld versions. This is how I acquired the Tarpen O&R, it was in this Keil Kraft boat. When I told the previous owner I was interested in O&R tools he said he still had some of the parts that were removed to put it in the boat, he originally bought it from a surplus shop (which had two of them) in the 1970's. The only part it needs is a replacement clutch bearing assembly, if you have a look at the propshaft coupling you'll see the bronze bearing got brazed together along with part of the clutch. I'm also not 100% sure the clutch shoe assembly I fitted is correct but that was all I had. David

It was donated a while ago by a friend in Wales, it was up in the roof until the other day I've not tried to clean it up, as you say it would do more harm than good !

Is the Turbair box something you bought recently, or found while searching in the shed? I have a similar box but it's so mouldy it's kept inside another box, I did clean up the spare bottle that came with it & sent that to Wallfish to complete his sprayer. I've got no idea if the box can be cleaned without destroying it. David

Found this box and extra bottles whilst looking for something else (as you do) Now with the display

Thanks for adding that Paul, Tarpen must have briefly marketed the Turbair in 1967, as both of my 1968 Turbair Tot 2S sprayers are branded Turbair Ltd (Waltham Abbey/Cross), as is the 1974 Series 13B engine I have from a later Turbair Tot 2S. All the literature I have is from Turbair Ltd too. As for Edwards Bals, there was this Turbair Tot sold a few years ago and another NOS boxed one with the Edwards Bals address on the box (made £245). Of course it would be nice to see a Tarpen branded one too or even a catalogue with it in from Tarpen. David

Finally found the last item I'm aware of for the collection. These Lewis winches were made for Homelite and these blue ones seem to be super rare. It's the same winch as the common orange units but the blue Homelite paint makes it a better fit for the collection. Just need the small drive belt which the seller forgot to add in the box but is sending. Probably find a nicer power head to switch this on to as well.

My father has an XL120 saw. It's in ok condition for the age. We got it up and running after sitting for quite a few years. Just drained and cleaned the tank and carburetor. Took two pulls and off it went. I couldn't believe the power this thing has. The new battery pack tools ain't got nothing on these. I'm looking to throw it up on EBay. Anyone know if they are bringing any kind of money?

Also have this Cutoff saw grinder. Same idea as the XL-100G but this is an attachment to the chainsaw compared to a specific manufactured tool.

Found another tool for the collection. A Homelite XL-100G-1A. Basically the same as an XL-100 circular saw but with a grinder wheel instead of a saw blade but doesn't come with flat guide to ride on. Not in the best of condition concerning the paint but this is the only one I've ever seen so...