Wallfish

Alright, you did it so I just put your parts in the mailbox today. But you must've lost the reed valve part.

Hey Sherlock, don't call me that! I broke the screw and "fixed IT" . Then figured no one will ever know.

I can email some pics of the chip a saw decal with dimensions later today if that helps. Might have a print of one from usedtoolman which might be better to use for duplication but let me know. Depending on cost, I could use 3 decals for the older saw. It was stripped down but never painted

The diaphragm pumps fuel. The tank can be lower than the carb. This is my best guess. Pulse of the vacuum pressure from the case flexes the diaphragm to pump fuel and the amount of air flow past the jet pulls in the fuel. The needle valve meters the amount of fuel being taken. More air past the jet equals more suction which equals more fuel. More fuel and more air equals higher rpm. The amount of air is metered by the butterfly valve inside the carb body. The butterfly is metered by the governor vein. The governor vein is metered by air flow from the flywheel speed. There are also reed valves inside the engine which control the vacuum and positive pressure of the piston moving inside the case. It's all in the precise timing of the components. At full blast it all happens at 6300 times a minute or 105 times a second. The choke helps with starting to pull fuel with the vacuum from the case because you can't pull it fast enough for the air flow past the jet to do it. Same for the primer button, it's a bump for the fuel for starting only. But once that spark happens in the chamber with fuel in there, pow, things move quickly. Hope this helps.

We can get @JUST O&R Terry the metal man to bang out a dozen or so scaled down replica bike tanks. He might actually be working on an O&R today since we haven't seen a post.

Dam, that's some good money. I can build those. The only thing which could be trouble is the gas tank in David's second pics Maybe early Harley stuff?

That's cool. Ya never know what these little engines will turn up on next. Not sure why it didn't post as a link to click on. I had to to highlight it and open in a new tab. https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-gas-powered-toy-motorcycle-1919183756

We need to find one for @JUST O&R to try. We'll get a video of him crash'n something sooner or later. Was thinking the same thing. It does seem familiar but can't remember if that was a just a web pic or if it was directly from him.

Just on the old forum. There was a member that had one. It's too bad that company hosting it were real @#$#@&^*%. We lost a lot of good members, good information and good content. We even had the grandson of Rice join up. He didn't post much but it was still cool to have him.

Good. I'll send you a block of wood and some wires. Wish I could see a video of ya try'n to figure it out. Basically the glow plug adapter with a glow plug and a carb. There are other upgrades to the engine that can be made for different applications like for an airplane or for a boat. I'll get some pics.

You take a week just to get it apart so there's plenty of time. I'll get'm sent. Work got crazy busy all of a sudden so hobby stuff is all backed up. Gotta send your parts, Clint some saw parts, get saw pics and a shipping quote for Paul, lost the thread where that guy wanted a carb arm, a couple PMs for diaphragms and need to work on the Mono saw. Plus a whole slew of other stuff. Just not enough time in a day.

That might be a good engine candidate for the glow fuel parts.

post some close up pics of all the carb parts you have. They made a couple different arms over the years.

Glad to have you aboard francisco! I might have an arm for ya but not the spring. If you have a spring it's good even though those things seem a little flimsie.

Mask it off and paint everything else? At least that's what I'm gonna try Uh Oh, did I give wrong info? Thought they were 1/4 but again, chainsaws aren't really my thing. Will have to go out and take another look at the chains

Thought he showed it apart too. Does that come a part easily into 3 pieces?

@Mitymoehelp there's also a crank seal on the other end inside the induction piece. Like an 1/8" inside the hole. An O ring will work for that one

Mask it off ? Yes. 1/4" pitch chain and a 12" bar. Manual oiler, seems all of the O&R saws are manual. Mine is missing the the plastic knob

Somehow missed this thread

Yeah, those rollers are a PITA and just did another one yesterday myself. I use Lubriplate 105 engine assembly grease but it's basically the same thing. Yes, there should be a seal there. Original seal is a small cupped seal but so far don't think anyone found a direct replacement of those. I do have a couple rubber flat washers in my parts stash that seem about the right size but never really looked into it to see if they are actually a newer type crank seal. @factory is the technical parts guru so maybe he knows of something and I think @CNew was looking into cupped replacements at one time. Not sure if an O ring will work or not

Do you have one of these saws too Clint? Yeah, me too. It was better until some over spray carb cleaner smeared the lower left.

Forgot all about Sugar Creek. Thanks as that size is about perfect for the chain cover and maybe a quick note to them about a smaller one might get a recoil decal too. Sending a PM

Look at the engine rebuild thread. That rod uses plastic cage bearings. Two engines I did recently, same thing. No plastic cages on the last two engines and they have the open rollers with washers. Guessing that's what's going on.

Now Karma has come back to bite me for bust'n Clint. Lost a hole crank end bearing, cage and all. Put it somewhere safe and can't find it now

Just bust'n your balls. But I thought if they had plastic cages, all the bearings are plastic cage bearings. At least the engines I've taken apart so far were like that. But they did make lots of changes as they went along