Wallfish

There should be roller bearings with cage to hold them in the deep part of the cover for the big gear

I know something! It's one of two things, the seller won't actually get paid because it turned into just making a point of the other person not winning or the winning bidder is a clueless idiot. You guys seem to be doing well so far for catching good prices. I've paid $125 just for an engine in the past. Prices do trend up and down and just a few years ago competition for them was up there.

It's about time! And think I spy the next project, a green Mustang under the bench. That thing really needs some luv'n And David is probably right, the only Perry badged Aquabug in the country

Nice, did you ever get the push rod and spark issue figured out?

Nice score Pretty sure that something like that was posted on the old forum. I remember seeing that seat design before

Seems many of those rubber spark plug caps disappear just like the cooling baffles do. I have a few engines missing them. Made this one using an old Champion CJ8 plug and a can of black Plasti Dip. This was the first one but think I can do even better by rolling the edge of the first dip down to make a lip before doing the second dip. Anyway, if you guys need some covers, it's pretty easy to make them. It appears more original than the rubber caps you can buy. Works well for the stop Kill too

Yes it is, did ya forget? You should post some pics of your collection again. Like that Aquabug generator, Orline winch, ect. ect. I couldn't capture everything before they shut down the old forum and missed a bunch of posts.

No I didn't, I offered $50 and you said "times 10". Man, you're get'n old! As far as the spelling, could it have read Runyon? Both sides have the bottom the "B" cut off straight in the same exact spot which makes it look like it could be an R.

You can use one of those magnetic business cards or a fridge type magnet to help keep those rollers under control. A bigger magnet helps with finding them if they do escape

So you probably don't remember telling me a couple weeks ago about buying your entire collection for $500 huh?

Plus without a belt guard, the belt can be changed quickly

Nice, who did you get to do the decals?

It definitely doesn't look like an A

Hey David @factory that reminds me, you never posted anything about that old cool hedge trimmer I sent to you. Have you done anything with that yet?

It threads into each separate hole. There's a small slot in the front edge of the gearbox and there's a hole in the spindles which hold the chuck. A small rod (1/8" ?) slides into the hole and the slot holds it firm so the chuck can be unscrewed with a wrench.

A bad condenser could cause that issue. Not too many go bad on these for some reason but it's certainly possible. If it's sparking the points are making a connection although it's always good practice to clean the contacts anyway. Also clean the copper spring where it contacts that little post. Clint, @CNew will send you a diaphragm or piece for $10.

Thanks for adding some pics. Unfortunately that's about the condition many of these tools are found in but they clean up nice if you spend the time. Looks like you're well on your way.

Agree, if it's cracked it should be changed while you have it opened up.

Yeah, Allstate gasket for the correct material but you'll have to buy a big piece. One already cut diaphragm is $10 with a new paper gasket or I can send you a small piece of material for $10 with a gasket if I can find a piece. You could also find a carb diaphragm for something else on ebay and cut it down to to size.

Think we hooked another one. Let the searching begin Half the fun is hunting is this down

Paint on the gearbox cover/handle came out pretty nice but the gas is a complete mess like Terry's was. It will need to be painted but since I hate painting, it will probably stay like that for a while. That's funny David, that does look the bar.

Nice find, Those Mighty Moe sprayers are neat little items.

In fact, I like the plastic cages because there super easy to clean and re-install. Just throw a dab of grease in the hole or on the rod and put'm in there. Unless you're referring to the same design but metal instead of plastic. The wire cage type are a PITA and messy. Just did and engine with them.

So between the two engines there were some good parts and bad. Had to dismantle both. The original engine sounded like it had sand it the cylinder , then in the crank case so couldn't use any of those internal parts. Then it turned out the crank on the other engine was worn. Had a groove from the points rod all the way around it. Found a good replacement crank and changed the whole thing. So I was able to get this far. Got a good engine together. And BTW, I hate those metal cages for the bearings. What a PITA they are to get back in. It's messy with all the grease to hold them too. It's been a long time since doing them but plastic cages would've saved an hour or two.

Nope. I must be the only one that doesn't have an issue with the plastic cages. Keep oil in the fuel and don't let it scream over 6300 rpm and it should be fine. None of my stuff are workers anyway so no big deal on the plastic cages.