Wallfish

Think we hooked another one. Let the searching begin Half the fun is hunting is this down

Paint on the gearbox cover/handle came out pretty nice but the gas is a complete mess like Terry's was. It will need to be painted but since I hate painting, it will probably stay like that for a while. That's funny David, that does look the bar.

Nice find, Those Mighty Moe sprayers are neat little items.

In fact, I like the plastic cages because there super easy to clean and re-install. Just throw a dab of grease in the hole or on the rod and put'm in there. Unless you're referring to the same design but metal instead of plastic. The wire cage type are a PITA and messy. Just did and engine with them.

So between the two engines there were some good parts and bad. Had to dismantle both. The original engine sounded like it had sand it the cylinder , then in the crank case so couldn't use any of those internal parts. Then it turned out the crank on the other engine was worn. Had a groove from the points rod all the way around it. Found a good replacement crank and changed the whole thing. So I was able to get this far. Got a good engine together. And BTW, I hate those metal cages for the bearings. What a PITA they are to get back in. It's messy with all the grease to hold them too. It's been a long time since doing them but plastic cages would've saved an hour or two.

Nope. I must be the only one that doesn't have an issue with the plastic cages. Keep oil in the fuel and don't let it scream over 6300 rpm and it should be fine. None of my stuff are workers anyway so no big deal on the plastic cages.

Interesting! @Webhead Joe may be able to give some info on those carbs. I've never had one. Didn't have any knowledge about that tool either until now. Typically you won't need a choke if there's a primer button or bulb but going by the the decal, one would think the "trigger" is a throttle but... Guess the trigger was the kill switch LoL Yeah, they scream at 6300 rpm and without any load it will stumble a little. Too bad you don't have the rest of it.

Here's the next one. Unfortunately the paint on the tank is all flaked off. Not sure yet if it will get striped off and painted. Too cold to paint anything for a while. Seems Gomer had a hard time with the flywheel and recoil on this one. Some kind of "fix" on the flywheel and once off, discovered the broken threads on the crank. Of coarse there was no mention of the hacks by seller. This is exactly how one ends up with a pile of spare used parts. But, I have another engine from a past purchase so between the 2 engines it should be OK.

Just picked a harder one to do next. You might recognize what it is.

So the gear box was little bit of a pain. Getting the gaskets right took some time and ended up cutting quite a few until it was right. (looks like someone threw confetti in my office now) A gear was rubbing on the metal separation piece then something was binding just a bit when all of the screws were tight. Nice and smooth now. This engine was done and gone through already because the gaskets looked new, inside was clean as a whistle and still some engine assembly grease noticeable around the bearings. Compression is so good there was a question whether or not to even open the engine but it was worth checking anyway. I must've quit at the gearbox because of the need for making gaskets as the gearbox definitely wasn't gone through before.

Click through the manuals David has posted. There's drawings of the different engines

No need to worry about the key ways on a short tappered shaft crank end unless it has the old style clutch with the cork friction linings. Those clutches used the key ways. Not sure if anything else ever did or not but I haven't seen one yet

is right but to a collector which is missing that different piece.... Something like that is easier for some of us with spare engines and parts to make it whole and nice again.

Thanks for posting that manual. Did find that yesterday because I was looking for a washer/bearing for the main gear #214. It keeps rubbing on the metal plate #213. It binds the gears when closed tight but that seems to be because the new gasket I made it just a little too thin. Found some better material to make a new one today.

They're cupped seals but they're pliable and soft like new ones so it should be good to go.

Started with the gearbox. It's not bad at all since the original grease in there is still very soft. The 2 gaskets are very dry and brittle and broke coming out. I'll have to make some replacements. Luckily the 3 shaft seals for the chuck are soft and pliable, think they're still good so I'll just use them since finding a replacement would be difficult.

David and Paul already sucked up all the good stuff! As far as gems go, it all evens out in the wash. You guys have some stuff I don't.

Picked another easy quick one to do and sticking with the imports for now. Had 2 of these sent over a while ago and also sold the other one to Jim @usedtoolman with the Turbair TOT. It basically needs a good cleaning but while it's disassembled, might as well go through the engine thoroughly and give it a good freshening up with new seals and gaskets. The gearbox gasket is leaking so a replacement for that will be made. The recoil was already done a long time ago when it was received. Never knew they're supposed to have handle grips until other pics were posted with them. An interesting drill because the chuck is repositioned into one of 3 different locations on the gearbox to change the rotation speed. Wait until you see the chrome cleaned up using Aluminum foil. It works wonders on these chrome handles and parts and it's quick and simple. These are in good condition to begin with but even some tough ones have been saved too.

No it didn't. Yours has enough cake there to dissolve it in water and make a full bottle of vintage chemical solution.

Nice going Brian! Glad it all worked out, let us know what you got if you find it.

Might as well spill the beans on the price if you know it

That "nub" looks like a sheared key to me but there was another guy before stating his flywheel didn't have a key way. The key only lines it up for the timing and the taper is actually what holds it in place. Is the crank slot normal? Now I see what takes you guys so long. All of those neat little compartments for parts takes time. Wish my organizational skills were that good

I have a good coil but the wires are messed up. A little wire, a little solder, a little shrink tube or just shrink tube them. Let me know if you want it

It was already in decent condition, new engine available and not really too many parts on those Kinda neglecting my duties up here in the office work'n on engines for hours instead doing actual work

They go quick when there's a nice new engine available for it. Just need to finish the recoil but I'll do 3 or 4 at a time because once you get go'n on them it just seems to go smoother. The chrome on this cleaned up nice. (probably get cancer from the crap that was inside from the chemicals run through it.) Here's a close up pic of those carb adapters