Wallfish

There should be 3 tank nipples. 2 are vents (one on each side ) because the cap seals the filler neck and the fuel pick up should be on the carb side.

1961 model 401 You can find more info and possible parts over on RedSquare https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/

Try using a piece of wire. Slip it through the tank nipple and pull it out of the filler neck. Send the end you just pulled out through a piece of fuel line and put a hook on the end of the wire so it can't pull back through the fuel line. Pull the wire back out of the tank nipple forcing the fuel line on to the nipple inside of the tank. MUCH easier said than done but got this tip from webhead a while back and have had some success doing it. Have had some failures too but it's worth a try. Those gearboxes for the augers are filled with oil. I use the lubriplate grease for the small gearboxes.

WOW! That thing came out really nice. If the original color is the same as the XL-12 blue, there's a paint Honda Highland Blue which is just about a perfect color match

That thing doesn't look too bad to me either. It's definitely a good find! The auger part isn't a huge let down concerning the over all tool but it sure is better to have the original part. The gear box shaft is 3/4" so you can drill out the auger to 7/8" and insert a 3/4" ID x 7/8" OD bronze bushing then drill the bushing to accept the pin. My originals aren't the tightest fit either but if there is too much slope at that connection it's an issue. For the coil laminate piece, that will separate by removing the single screw which locks it together. Remove the coil and you can easily clean it up with a wire wheel. If the tank is rusty inside, you can fill it with Cider vinegar and let it sit over night, pour out the vinegar and check to see if it needs longer. When it's good wash it out with a little baking soda mixed with water to neutralize the vinegar acid, blow it dry. The cider vinegar will also work well for any of the other rusted parts. You'll need to post some pictures of what was done with the carb and air cleaner to see if it's salvageable or if it's just better to replace the whole thing.

Unfortunately I've been out of the O&R game for a while but not very many of those saws come up for sale. Although I have seen them for sale every once in a while. If it's complete and in good condition and you really want it, $400 isn't too crazy but patience could find one cheaper. $0.02

It's been far too long since I've checked in to the forum. Think I have a couple of those reed valves in the parts stash.

Nice work on the tank repair and thanks for sharing your experience. One concern might be if it's better to extend the tube with fuel line when using that type of a fuel pick up so it lays down horizontal at the bottom. Not sure, but it seems like it may start sucking air before using the bottom 1/3 of fuel. Hope that's not the case here as those tanks don't hold much fuel as it is. Curious about the "rubber" original pick up. I've never had one of these specific tanks open either but all the others that have been opened used a small metal cone with a screen. Can you post a pic of the old rubber pick up?

The best sealant type product for sealing gas tanks as it actually holds up to gasoline Never had one of those particular tanks apart either but I'm with David, use heat. Torch, heat gun whatever and maybe use a wooden dowel through the fill neck to push it out.

That's a real nice find, not too many of those are seen. You will definitely need a new diaphragm. These small engines don't enough vacuum and pressure to pulse a stiff diaphragm. here's a link to another one. The shaft is threaded for attaching a drill chuck. Thought I posted a video of it running to but...

Making sure they go back on the same way they came off is important too. The hole for the carb is different than the hole on the intake, plus the flat sides need to be matched together. Before I had a parts stash with replacement gaskets, a successful technique used to "resurface" them was to squish the gaskets one at a time in a vice between two pieces of FLAT & SMOOTH 1/4 inch thick steel plates.This worked twice. It was only needed because the previous owner installed the gaskets backwards and distorted both sides of them so there was not a flat surface on either side them.

Maybe Joe uses his sweater vest to secure his tie while doing yard work. Thanks for posting and sharing those pics. Interesting stuff

Ha, how about posting your selfie while you're out weeding around the petunias?

There should be one around here and your close by. That happens more often when the tank is full because fuel can more easily enter the top of the tube inside the tank. Another thing to check on for the lack of fuel is a clogged fuel pick up. Connect a piece of clean fuel line to the tank and try blowing through it. Air should flow fairly easy. If clogged you can try spraying carb cleaner through the tube and let it soak, spray a little more, let it soak and so on.

None of the ads or pictures ever show anyone wearing protection

It's been a while but still checking in every chance I get. Just haven't had any time for hobby stuff. David seems to have a handle on answering most of the questions so by the time I check in they're already answered. Your in my area of the world. Whereabouts in MA are you? I might have some caps for you but will need to look around for them.

If it's shutting down quickly after priming then it's not getting fuel or enough fuel. Leaking crank case seals can cause this because there isn't enough vacuum and positive pressure to make the diaphragm push enough fuel. The stiffer the diaphragm is the more pressure it takes to pulse it. This condition can also cause a poor lean running condition. There is a procedure for doing a leak down test near the end of the engine rebuild thread posted by webhead. Leaking carb gaskets could also be an issue. Spray a little carb cleaner on them while it is running, if they are sealed you should hear no change in the rpm. If rpm does change, they're leaking. If you are twisting that carb adjusting needle open quite a few turns and it isn't changing or flooding the engine, it's not getting enough fuel so it could be clogged somewhere or the previous stated conditions.

A C-51 with good paint for it's age and I have a second XL-100 circular saw I'd consider letting go.

Me either.

Hi Karl. What's this about?

Kohler engine carbs use a rubber tipped float needle seal which looks like it could work as a replacement. Unfortunately I just haven't had the time to try and get one to work.

I have a flywheel. You're close by so you can pick it up. Are you in Shrewsbury? Just don't have time right now for shipping stuff, just ask Factory! LoL

Think you can run those with an air cooled engine too. I have an air cooled gas engine with the White Heat exhaust stack. Came with the Octura engine mount too so it seems to be all original. I'm just missing the boat! Do you have a boat or the plans to build one? Here's a thread for the White Heat

Some more pics would help. Hopefully it wasn't run with the old crusty air filter material still inside the air cleaner. That crap gets sucked into the engine easily. The tank doesn't appear original but that is also a later model unit which was made in the 70's. It appears to be in good condition. You'll see all kinds of prices out there for O&R stuff and they do trend up and down. The older and stranger the piece, the more they are valued by collectors. Personally I'd value it between $150 on the low end and $250 on the higher end but you never know when listing it on ebay. With auction style bidding if someone wants it more than the other guy it can easily go up. If no one is buying it could go down. I might be a bit bias too since I already have ice augers so it's always possible a collector which doesn't have one yet, could be willing to pay more. Shoot me a PM on here if you want to skip listing it for sale and I'll make you an offer.

The internal parts of the engine get lubrication from the oil that is mixed into the gas. That engine assembly grease helps hold the pieces together during assembly and pre lubricates them for initial starting. You can use a drop of 2 stroke oil to lube parts if it isn't completely taken apart and cleaned.