Wallfish

Unfortunately I've been out of the O&R game for a while but not very many of those saws come up for sale. Although I have seen them for sale every once in a while. If it's complete and in good condition and you really want it, $400 isn't too crazy but patience could find one cheaper. $0.02

It's been far too long since I've checked in to the forum. Think I have a couple of those reed valves in the parts stash.

Nice work on the tank repair and thanks for sharing your experience. One concern might be if it's better to extend the tube with fuel line when using that type of a fuel pick up so it lays down horizontal at the bottom. Not sure, but it seems like it may start sucking air before using the bottom 1/3 of fuel. Hope that's not the case here as those tanks don't hold much fuel as it is. Curious about the "rubber" original pick up. I've never had one of these specific tanks open either but all the others that have been opened used a small metal cone with a screen. Can you post a pic of the old rubber pick up?

The best sealant type product for sealing gas tanks as it actually holds up to gasoline Never had one of those particular tanks apart either but I'm with David, use heat. Torch, heat gun whatever and maybe use a wooden dowel through the fill neck to push it out.

That's a real nice find, not too many of those are seen. You will definitely need a new diaphragm. These small engines don't enough vacuum and pressure to pulse a stiff diaphragm. here's a link to another one. The shaft is threaded for attaching a drill chuck. Thought I posted a video of it running to but...

Making sure they go back on the same way they came off is important too. The hole for the carb is different than the hole on the intake, plus the flat sides need to be matched together. Before I had a parts stash with replacement gaskets, a successful technique used to "resurface" them was to squish the gaskets one at a time in a vice between two pieces of FLAT & SMOOTH 1/4 inch thick steel plates.This worked twice. It was only needed because the previous owner installed the gaskets backwards and distorted both sides of them so there was not a flat surface on either side them.

Maybe Joe uses his sweater vest to secure his tie while doing yard work. Thanks for posting and sharing those pics. Interesting stuff

Ha, how about posting your selfie while you're out weeding around the petunias?

There should be one around here and your close by. That happens more often when the tank is full because fuel can more easily enter the top of the tube inside the tank. Another thing to check on for the lack of fuel is a clogged fuel pick up. Connect a piece of clean fuel line to the tank and try blowing through it. Air should flow fairly easy. If clogged you can try spraying carb cleaner through the tube and let it soak, spray a little more, let it soak and so on.

None of the ads or pictures ever show anyone wearing protection

It's been a while but still checking in every chance I get. Just haven't had any time for hobby stuff. David seems to have a handle on answering most of the questions so by the time I check in they're already answered. Your in my area of the world. Whereabouts in MA are you? I might have some caps for you but will need to look around for them.

If it's shutting down quickly after priming then it's not getting fuel or enough fuel. Leaking crank case seals can cause this because there isn't enough vacuum and positive pressure to make the diaphragm push enough fuel. The stiffer the diaphragm is the more pressure it takes to pulse it. This condition can also cause a poor lean running condition. There is a procedure for doing a leak down test near the end of the engine rebuild thread posted by webhead. Leaking carb gaskets could also be an issue. Spray a little carb cleaner on them while it is running, if they are sealed you should hear no change in the rpm. If rpm does change, they're leaking. If you are twisting that carb adjusting needle open quite a few turns and it isn't changing or flooding the engine, it's not getting enough fuel so it could be clogged somewhere or the previous stated conditions.

A C-51 with good paint for it's age and I have a second XL-100 circular saw I'd consider letting go.

Me either.

Hi Karl. What's this about?

Kohler engine carbs use a rubber tipped float needle seal which looks like it could work as a replacement. Unfortunately I just haven't had the time to try and get one to work.

I have a flywheel. You're close by so you can pick it up. Are you in Shrewsbury? Just don't have time right now for shipping stuff, just ask Factory! LoL

Think you can run those with an air cooled engine too. I have an air cooled gas engine with the White Heat exhaust stack. Came with the Octura engine mount too so it seems to be all original. I'm just missing the boat! Do you have a boat or the plans to build one? Here's a thread for the White Heat

Some more pics would help. Hopefully it wasn't run with the old crusty air filter material still inside the air cleaner. That crap gets sucked into the engine easily. The tank doesn't appear original but that is also a later model unit which was made in the 70's. It appears to be in good condition. You'll see all kinds of prices out there for O&R stuff and they do trend up and down. The older and stranger the piece, the more they are valued by collectors. Personally I'd value it between $150 on the low end and $250 on the higher end but you never know when listing it on ebay. With auction style bidding if someone wants it more than the other guy it can easily go up. If no one is buying it could go down. I might be a bit bias too since I already have ice augers so it's always possible a collector which doesn't have one yet, could be willing to pay more. Shoot me a PM on here if you want to skip listing it for sale and I'll make you an offer.

The internal parts of the engine get lubrication from the oil that is mixed into the gas. That engine assembly grease helps hold the pieces together during assembly and pre lubricates them for initial starting. You can use a drop of 2 stroke oil to lube parts if it isn't completely taken apart and cleaned.

The "bracket" you removed is the induction section. There's really no need to remove it to get the carb off. They came from the factory with those paper gaskets over the diaphragm. I have replaced many diaphragms without using that paper gasket but now I had a bunch cut when the guy did the diaphragms. Have you looked at this thread for rebuilding an engine? it shows most of the parts and has an engine diagram near the end.

The one pictured above is just made as a snow blower but Polaris Power Pole did make a version in which the engine could be attached to different attachments. An Ice Auger and an Outboard are the two I know of.

Not stupid AT ALL. It squeezes through the hole since the halves do not separate. I roll it up and push it in with a small piece of stiff bent wire. The wire is bent so it doesn't just poke through the foam. Once inside the filter use the other straight end to move it into position. Certainly easier said than done but it's not too difficult to get it in there. The first one is always the toughest.

Found one, here you go David