Wallfish

The "bracket" you removed is the induction section. There's really no need to remove it to get the carb off. They came from the factory with those paper gaskets over the diaphragm. I have replaced many diaphragms without using that paper gasket but now I had a bunch cut when the guy did the diaphragms. Have you looked at this thread for rebuilding an engine? it shows most of the parts and has an engine diagram near the end.

The one pictured above is just made as a snow blower but Polaris Power Pole did make a version in which the engine could be attached to different attachments. An Ice Auger and an Outboard are the two I know of.

Not stupid AT ALL. It squeezes through the hole since the halves do not separate. I roll it up and push it in with a small piece of stiff bent wire. The wire is bent so it doesn't just poke through the foam. Once inside the filter use the other straight end to move it into position. Certainly easier said than done but it's not too difficult to get it in there. The first one is always the toughest.

Found one, here you go David

Nice detective work!

You can probably repair it with fiberglass resin and cloth. Over here it is sold at Automotive parts stores.

David, I may have a spare cover. You have to be careful with the tank cap. If the the fuel and air inside are warm, then the vent is closed and the temp gets cold enough, it will collapse the the tank enough to split it. Guess how I know about that?

Glad you found us. You're further along than most because they usually need a new carb diaphragm to get them running. Where is the fuel coming from that's flies everywhere? Smoke yes, fuel no. You may be able to cut down on some of the smoke if you are mixing it 24:1 like the label states to do. That was for mixing 30W oil back in the old days but modern 2 stroke oil is a much better lubricant nowadays. Use a good quality AIR cooled engine 2 stroke oil and mix 32:1.

Be sure to tell this person to join us here on the forum. We would be interested in ANY history they could provide.

Nice score. Please post up some better pics when you get the chance! And of coarse we are looking forward to seeing you get that baby running!

That sucks to see all those problems with an old K90. Not too many of those around over here let alone over there. The head with the curved cooling fins is from a K90 and straight fins are a K91. The exhaust port for that replacement engine can easily be threaded with 1/2" - 14 NPT tap to fit 1/2" NPT pipe. Original Wheel Horse spec engines used 3/4" pipe but the 1/2 works perfectly fine. Hard to tell from the pics which size pipe you have but it looks like 1/2", I'd imagine NPT pipe is an American thing so not sure what access you guys have to it. https://drillsandcutters.com/1-2-14-npt-carbon-steel-pipe-tap/?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&gclid=COPwl5GG4NICFQS2wAodSfcKxw Let me know if I can help with shipping pipe parts if needed.

The spring was sent to webhead but please let me know if it is not needed as it was removed from a good carb part.

PM that again Joe, I know I have it somewhere but it's been a while You should have it before you get back and have fun on vacation!

Just the arm spring? I can send one. Don't have time to clean and test a whole assembly but I can drop a spring in the mail. Or a used assembly for @Vw tim to clean and assemble himself. What about a gasket, needle valve, long screw and the plastic check valve?

Yup, early engines used a 10mm plug

The glow fuel converted engine I have has the same carb on it, just positioned different and one of the plastic control arms is cut off. Never removed it to see how it's held in place. Exhaust manifold also had a port added to pressurize a fuel tank

Did the seller re-list it? Most all of these engines can be cleaned and made to run. It's just a matter of how much time and money you want to put into them. Some are just easier to replace rather than put the effort into them. That engine doesn't appear to be abused so it shouldn't be too bad to get going again but you never really know until it's thoroughly inspected.

By the appearance of the rope in the recoil, doesn't look like it has much run time. The ropes always get dirty and oily which turn them dark grey when they get used. Do not try and start it before removing the old air filter foam, it will get sucked into the engine. I use small bristle brushes or tooth brushes dipped in gasoline to clean them and a bunch of disposable shop towels or just paper towels. Blow it off with an air compressor first but not into that air filter! Then dry brush it to get all the loose stuff off, then the gasoline. Stinky job but it works. Once you get the carb apart the primer button will loosen up.

It's always possible someone scavenged parts from it but the only way to run it without a flywheel and coil is a glow plug. That and the adapter on the crank is why I'm guessing it was used for an RC airplane. The carb is aftermarket but I don't know who made them, Octura maybe? @Webhead may have more info on those. They make a 12v starting motor for starting RC airplanes. It has a rubber cup and you push it into the spinner on the center of the prop to turn over the engine. There appears to be debris inside the chamber so you should clean it out before starting it.Pull the head off. You mentioned you're not sure if it turns over but you should be able to spin that crank fairly easy by hand with the plug hole open.

Appears to me it was set up for use on an RC airplane using glow fuel. What's in the spark plug hole?

Ooooo, Someone got fancy building that exhaust! Hard to say if it was manufactured or not. Maybe made by Octura but never in quantity? Certainly took some machining to make it.

They make it look easy. ONLY $350! $350 in 1970 equals $2,195.86 in 2016.

Well I know J-B weld won't hold up to gasoline very long no matter what the manufacturer says. Personal experience. Loctite states this stuff is "resistant" to fuel but I think J-B states that too. Hope it does, it will be useful. The stuff usedtoolman suggested does hold up to gasoline but can't use it for attaching things. It's called Lab Metal