Wallfish

Beat ya!

It was on Epay as a "buy it now" for $85. Came from a seller in Waltham MA and that guy has been listing O&R stuff on there for a while. Need to get him to join the forum as it appears he has or had a bunch of stuff.

Jim, usedtoolman had made some of those spark plug covers using Plasti Dip. It's for rubber coating tool handles and available in black. He may have done a thread on the old forum about it and they came out very nice

Bought this as a bunch of pieces but it has all the important stuff like the gearbox with the pulley, the little V-belt, correct gas tank, ect. ect. Really just missing the engine, hardware and couple of small pieces. The locked up gearbox is soaking now but it seems like it's just the grease is hard as a rock. It should free up. It came in dirty but was easy to clean since it was already apart. Paint isn't too bad on this one. I have a couple of spare yellow Mustang chainsaws to use for donor parts, engine and the hardware. Missed out on a couple of these over the years and they don't seem to come up for sale as often so was happy to finally get one for the collection.

I think the Tecumseh engine coils might be the same ones. The recoils can be a challenge but they do get easier the more of them you do.

Was thinking about having some decals made for the blower covers. It's certainly less expensive for each one the more made at the same time. If you have any interest in them, let me know a number of how many and I'll try and get a deal done with the decal guy.

Probably are Phelon. The metal laminate part is unique to these engines but it's always possible a chainsaw engine out there could have one that would interchange with minor modification like drilling new holes. The only bad coils seem to be the damaged ones. Think I've had one suspect coil out of 50+ engines so they are probably the most durable part on them. Once you end up with a couple of toasted engines, you'll have some spares. My advice is to buy the crappy Mustang chainsaws for cheap money to gain spare engine parts like coils, carbs, recoils, ect. ect.

See you already have the essential dental pics and Q-tips out. Another good thing to get is a set of hole punches for making new gaskets. I like the little plier type rather than the type you hit with a hammer. They make quick accurate work for making new paper gaskets. Just search around the web for a set with all different sizes. Example https://www.amazon.com/Darice-1201-14-Circle-Punches-3-Piece/dp/B000WWK8US/ref=sr_1_5/146-3815977-4936629?ie=UTF8&qid=1549421562&sr=8-5&keywords=hole+punch+set

As with most of these old tools, you should just go through the whole thing anyway. disassemble, clean and re-grease everything. My gearbox on the little wonder does NOT have that hole so it appears someone has been in there before. That means you should definitely get into it and have a look. Just do it over a clean surface or lay out a towel or something. Those little roller bearings enjoy taking off and it's a pain in the @$$ to find them after they do. It's probably something you're aware of by now but just in case since there aren't replacements available.

I have one of those tanks and just use it to display a glow plug conversion model airplane engine with a big propeller on it.

NICE!!!!! I love everything about it. Been "out of the loop" for a bit since work takes up too much time but it's fantastic to come back and see this stuff. Can't wait to see the finished product. Ian, you're getting pretty good at that video stuff and that camera motion thingy was a really cool effect.

Now we're talk'n. That's a great idea! Not sure about that hole, I'd have to take a look at mine. But it appears it's a bolt from the other side and not sure why it wouldn't just be a blind hole.

2 part epoxy, Not sure if that will hold up to gas over time but I'm assuming you're not looking to trim your bushes with this, just collecting

Spray carb cleaner into the nipple, let it soak. Repeat as many times as needed. You will find that you need to be VERY resourceful when it comes to these tools. Look EVERYWHERE for something that works if you can't find a replacement part. A lot of trial and error will be needed too but that's half the fun. Not sure if any of these will work for the correct size but just to give you an idea. https://www.amazon.com/TAI-DIAN-Transparent-Glass-Containers/dp/B078H9DHPM/ref=asc_df_B078H9DHPM/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863980630237&psc=1

And yes, the handle is mounted with rubber mounts, vibration dampers. At least you got the little vent bottle. Most are missing because the nipples broke off.

There should be 3 tank nipples. 2 are vents (one on each side ) because the cap seals the filler neck and the fuel pick up should be on the carb side.

1961 model 401 You can find more info and possible parts over on RedSquare https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/

Try using a piece of wire. Slip it through the tank nipple and pull it out of the filler neck. Send the end you just pulled out through a piece of fuel line and put a hook on the end of the wire so it can't pull back through the fuel line. Pull the wire back out of the tank nipple forcing the fuel line on to the nipple inside of the tank. MUCH easier said than done but got this tip from webhead a while back and have had some success doing it. Have had some failures too but it's worth a try. Those gearboxes for the augers are filled with oil. I use the lubriplate grease for the small gearboxes.

WOW! That thing came out really nice. If the original color is the same as the XL-12 blue, there's a paint Honda Highland Blue which is just about a perfect color match

That thing doesn't look too bad to me either. It's definitely a good find! The auger part isn't a huge let down concerning the over all tool but it sure is better to have the original part. The gear box shaft is 3/4" so you can drill out the auger to 7/8" and insert a 3/4" ID x 7/8" OD bronze bushing then drill the bushing to accept the pin. My originals aren't the tightest fit either but if there is too much slope at that connection it's an issue. For the coil laminate piece, that will separate by removing the single screw which locks it together. Remove the coil and you can easily clean it up with a wire wheel. If the tank is rusty inside, you can fill it with Cider vinegar and let it sit over night, pour out the vinegar and check to see if it needs longer. When it's good wash it out with a little baking soda mixed with water to neutralize the vinegar acid, blow it dry. The cider vinegar will also work well for any of the other rusted parts. You'll need to post some pictures of what was done with the carb and air cleaner to see if it's salvageable or if it's just better to replace the whole thing.

Unfortunately I've been out of the O&R game for a while but not very many of those saws come up for sale. Although I have seen them for sale every once in a while. If it's complete and in good condition and you really want it, $400 isn't too crazy but patience could find one cheaper. $0.02

It's been far too long since I've checked in to the forum. Think I have a couple of those reed valves in the parts stash.

Nice work on the tank repair and thanks for sharing your experience. One concern might be if it's better to extend the tube with fuel line when using that type of a fuel pick up so it lays down horizontal at the bottom. Not sure, but it seems like it may start sucking air before using the bottom 1/3 of fuel. Hope that's not the case here as those tanks don't hold much fuel as it is. Curious about the "rubber" original pick up. I've never had one of these specific tanks open either but all the others that have been opened used a small metal cone with a screen. Can you post a pic of the old rubber pick up?

The best sealant type product for sealing gas tanks as it actually holds up to gasoline Never had one of those particular tanks apart either but I'm with David, use heat. Torch, heat gun whatever and maybe use a wooden dowel through the fill neck to push it out.

That's a real nice find, not too many of those are seen. You will definitely need a new diaphragm. These small engines don't enough vacuum and pressure to pulse a stiff diaphragm. here's a link to another one. The shaft is threaded for attaching a drill chuck. Thought I posted a video of it running to but...