Anglo Traction

Ah!, that's not good news. Someone's put the wrong size in at some point. Whatever you do, don't clean the bearing recess back to near metal.I suspect they packed it out with something. 6203-2RS-12 3/4 is the correct spec (2RS= 2 rubber shields. -12= 12mm width) for the Bearings you've ordered. The width is also undersize by 0.7mm, so will also have been packed out. I hope it all goes back together ok.

Done the hardest part of stitching the seams, namely the bottom edges that will be captive under the folded base edge. My spacing and straightness of the seam drastically improved after the first 30cms and past the first crimped corner seam- Thankfully most of this bit is out of sight. It's a bit fiddly with trying to keep the tension on the yarn, but quite satisfying despite the loooong time it takes me. The 1/4" diameter Rod frame was in a mess (bare metal originally) and it had welded to the old canvas with the rust. Had a lot of cleaning and straightening to do, but it now has a coat of Kurust, Oxide Primer and Black Enamel. A trial fit of the Canvas with the Base is looking good- I think I've worked out the finishing sequence. Look's like I'll have to stitch the top edge over the Rod Frame after finally fitting/locking the canvas to the base, which will be interesting. Got to do it nice as this top part will show. That's my weekend booked up.

Ok, I see the spec for 6203-2RS-12 3/4 is undersize compared to the original according to the Spec and Cross reference sheets that I have. Although that range is quoted as 3/4" bore option, the OD is actually measured/quoted as 40mm (1.575"). 0.030" under !. I would want an OD of 1.625", which is why I could not find a correct equivalent in UK. The original bearing number is (General) 22162-88, which compares to (Nice/SKF)1630DC or (Shatz) BR9930A in all dimensions. I imagine a 6203 will just drop in, without the need for pressing?. Will be interested to know how loose the fit is when installed please Norm.

Not seen any pressed tin Pulleys for Mule Drives, only Cast Iron type. Maybe Mun Investments or Toro went cheap on the brand quality on later versions ?. edit- I have Cast Iron versions, one of which is in pieces for a refurb and sell, but low on the list. Could not find bearings with correct Dimensions in UK, nearest was too skinny at 7/16" wide. Actual dims are 1.5/8" (1.6250")OD x 3/4" (0.750") ID x 1/2" (0.5") wide. . Loads available in U.S. but 'Buy n Ship' rates too high commercially and on most Auction Ads. Be interested to know which Bearings your getting and from where though. Edit - Just checked and it was earlier. Look's like the changeover occurred in 75 for 76. The OEM pressed Steel pulleys (2) will set you back about £60 new and complete imported Part numbers are 104974/5.

Just read your description and viewed your pic of the problem again and I believe I now understand where the issue is?, but I can also be mistaken. Suspect you could have a problem with the PTO Bearing shaft. It's the short stubby shaft that carries the Quick Release Pin. On that shaft, there is what you will call a 'Snap Ring' in UK it is also known as a Circlip. That Snap Ring carries All the Pressure that the PTO Control Lever applies to the PTO Clutch and pressure Pad friction material. This is the only example I have on mine that is similar to show the Snap Ring in place (on an older 72 model)- That Snap Ring sits in a shallow groove in the Shaft and wears out the square edges of the groove and so the ring slips out when pressure is applied !. If this is your issue, you will need to replace the Shaft and Snap Ring. I presume your machine is about 1978 which will have a Model number like 81-16KS01?. Either way, the part numbers remained the same for the next several years. Here's a snap shot of Toro's IPL covering the component parts- Parts #33 & #34 are the suspects and the Toro Part nbrs are- 33 = #102872 & 34 = 936125 if you need them. It is a weak spot in the design, but ok as long as spare parts are available , like in the U.S. where you should have no problem obtaining them. To overcome this design issue, I for one have modified it, by producing a shaft with a Shoulder formed where the Snap Ring goes and carries all the pressure- The inside carries a thick washer (not shown) and retained by a Socket Head Bolt to carry the pressure when releasing the PTO away from the Pressure Plate. Edit - also noticed you need to fix the Roll Pin arrowed in this copied image as it is part of your problem-

Afraid there's no Smiley for Birthdays Nigel. Hope your having a great day. Best wishes for loads more

Refurbished example. Cleaned internally, Brush Springs replaced, Commutator Skimmed. Loose Magnet part bonded back Some may have seen the pics in a thread on Redsquare . American Bosch High Mount model. came off a Wheel Horse Kohler K301s. 10 tooth Bendix has wear on the Teeth, but testing and use showed no issues and works fine every time. Or it can be replaced with your own Bendix that may be less worn or has 13 teeth !. Repainted and new Decals applied to suit a Wheel Horse. Clean ground/earth contact faces. Why am I selling it ?. I refurbished my other one (1972 Model) whilst using this one and my other WH has a new one fitted, so surplus to requirements. I also need the dosh and space. This Lump weighs 2.3kgs, so will cost over £8.00 for standard 2nd class post within UK, so would be happy with £35.00 total. Thought I'd offer it here first, before putting it on Auction site. Anyone interested, please send me a PM. It will be on here for 7 days. Thanks, Regards.

I won't disagree with checking the Deck Drive Belt Tension, but also still check PTO Clutch pressure adjustment. Follow these instructions extracted from the Operator's Manual to adjust it and the Brake Pad pressure- Hope this helps and welcome. Regards

Nothing major as far as progress really, but have continued working on the Grass Catcher for now. Completely dismantled it to it's component parts which are not that substantial in strength. The canvas edges were reinforced with wire and secured under a folded edge around the base panel. The edges carefully prised opened up to free the canvas so I could start to unpick the seams with a 'Stitch Ripper' tool. Canvas has arrived and is a perfect match in weight and colour, and have enough material to make 2 in case I screw up- As was shown in previous pics, the front Rod Tangs on each end were in a bad way, so I searched around for some new rod to replace it. Found some at my local 'Drill-Service' stockist, 2metres of original PS Stubbs 1/4" diameter Silver Steel. Got a discount too, as it had a slight bend. The galvanised base panel had a few dents which I tapped out ok after a good clean with a scourer and came up real good with very little rusting- I've cut the new canvas by using the original as a pattern ready for sewing up, but have now had to order a Sewing Awl to make it easier for my hands/joints. If all goes well, I should have this part finished in just over a week. Hoping the engine parts will be here by then.

If you want help from someone who has done this Mod here in UK, then send kpthorsefan a PM (last on here in April). He used UK sourced Trailer Hubs, not sure if the PCD is the same as on Scooter Rims. His excellent Thread on RS was way back in 2010/11 I believe, but when I last looked, I think the pics links had dropped out. You'd need to fire up the Lathe though Norm!..........Go for it.

Suspect your Tiller Model # should read 97-36TL01. It's a 1987 model. Unfortunately the Toro Site doesn't have a Drawing/Parts List for that model that I can see?, so Headexam is your go to man. Note- If your C161 is a 16hp Twin cylinder (8speed or Auto), it will need a different belt (110265 which is 141inches).

Yes Norm, not sure where I would've been without this other machine. Still cost a lot to sort it though. I think the end is in sight Ian, a bit of back tracking to do, what with changing the Piston and a few other bits This Cylinder is not without a few defects, but as long as I'm careful to avoid hitting hard stuff with the Blades, it should be ok. Checked it for balance with a crude set up- Would need 52 grammes of weight on the periphery to even it out, but I won't bother and just fit it, the new Bearings should cope with that ok. The Pinion on this end is a bit pitted, but not on the contact faces of the teeth, so should be fine with a splodge of Grease- The Bearing has been transferred to the Housing from John/Alan's Donor Machine, as it was less corroded, but not so tight-a-fit. Also tapped the Oil Hole in the top 1/4"BSF ready for fitting a pipe from a 'Screw Down' Grease Cup which will be fitted. The other end only had to have a hardened 'Dirt Excluding Washer' (Atco's description, not mine) made, as I can't for the life of me find the one from the other Cylinder! .... must be those pesky Workshop Gremlins. You may just see, if you click on and enlarge the image, that there are a few black lines traversing the Ground Blade face. This section has been damaged/distorted and has a few cracks in the blade. Like I say, I'll just have to be careful with it- .......This end won't be fully assembled until it's fitted to the Mower. Today, I changed the New Bronze Bearings over from the old Wheels to the J&A's Donor Wheels, having finished painting them. I fitted a Hub Cap just to see if they would look ok- Still waiting for assorted Engine Parts and Materials delivery, Sorted and now waiting for the Canvas for the Grass Catcher. Also got some 'Sail and Canvas' Needles etc. Yes I'm going to have to sew it all up myself. Not really linked to this project, but I've also been playing with the various parts of the Spare Villiers 98cc Mk2, ready for a re-bored Cylinder, Rings, HT Coil and Ign Lead. All main parts clean and prepped ready- .

Good news on finding one (and a decent one at that) so quick !. Always a bonus to find better parts on it than what you have.

Sure was an incredible machine, as were the other 2 'V' Bombers (from a design point of view). I still remember the day seeing 3 Vulcans in formation flying over my School in 1963. We used to know what Aircraft were which, just by the sound of the engines. A shame it has to be grounded from now on. Thanks for posting.

Hello Alan, thanks. The Bearing and Pinion surfaces at each end cleaned up ok with no pitting, even though the L/H Drive Chain, Sprocket were solid with rust and the R/H Bearing rusted up. Checked them over with a Micrometer , then polished them up with Crocus Grade Emery. Bearings are still a press fit. I had made covers for these areas out of Copper and Brass tube to protect them at the Blasters. The Drive Pinions are less worn than my originals (they were subjected to sandy soil lawns in their previous useful life, but all still good/useable). So it means I can use all the Drive parts from John's Donor Mower including the Wheels as the parts all have 'Bed In and Mate Up' well together.

Thanks Norm. The back up Cylinder is nearly done now . Good paint hardening weather. Just got to check/adjust for balance before installing- Alloy Piston's ordered.

Yeah, I reckon Norm. Trying to get a seller to only supply a metre of the Canvas, rather than a 5metre roll at the moment, I think I'm winning. Have been sorting out the back-up cylinder (reel) . It's been liberated from all the rust by Blasting and had a good coat of self Etch Primer, then baked on. I opted for checking out a long established Garden Machinery place in Lingfield to give it a Grind and Hone, handy as it was also on the way back from the Media Blasters. (they can't do the other one as there is too much metal to remove). Got it back this morning and cleaned off the greasy finger marks etc. Also masked off the ground blade faces ready for painting (lot of pitting to lose)- Made a start on the Hub Cap/wheel retainers, these were well gone with the rust lifting the Chrome off. This example is the better of the two - I couldn't put them in the E-bucket as they were Chromed, so had to sort them by hand. Took a while what with the old joints "Really giving me Gyp" nowadays. Pitting wasn't so bad once they were cleaned, then decided to just paint them. Re- Chroming is not a consideration my wallet will respond to. So they look reasonable - Thought I was going to be lucky on at least one part of this project, but I need to replace the Piston with an Aluminium one due to some vibration occurring at half Revs. The Cranks must have been 'Matched' to either Cast Iron or Ali Pistons?. No references anywhere that I could find. There is about 120grammes difference between the types, so it's got to be that. Should have gone and replaced 'Like-for-Like' in the first place. Something else I've learned about these little Villiers.

Hi Chris, Afraid I didn't. I was shown some of the Aladdin's John's Cave, but I was mIndful of not taking up too much of John and Alan's time. Hi Alan, Well, part of me wishes I had seen it, the other says glad I didn't . I will get one when I'm able, if only to do a full rebuild to see what makes 'em tick. Haven't got a use for one anymore . Would need to make space and dump one of the Red Tractors at least though!. Regards.

Ok, I'll be first to offer an opinion. I think your right to look at an Oxford Allen Machine, but I know nothing about them. Only to say that I intend to obtain one for a full Refurb project in the future. I have seen them in use and are easy to handle and versatile in awkward areas. Also if you like using/maintaining a vintage machine, it should fit the bill. Cost-wise, as you say, they are plentiful and reasonably priced. What also would sell me on one is that you can obtain many parts for the Machine and it's engine, more-or-less from one source that specialises in them. If they are carefully prepared for storage outside, they will cope with a winter ok. If you do get one, I for one will be in envy that you'll be able to use it in what sounds to be an idyllic location. Good luck and enjoy.

I do not know the age of your Bolens, but the Carburetor should have adjustable Needles for High speed and Idle. If your fuel mixture is lean (low fuel, high Air mixture) your engine will run hot. It will also use more Oil. In some cases it can make your Exhaust pipe glow red with heat. Maybe worth checking the Manual for your engine for the correct adjustment. If it is adjusted correctly, then another cause is a blockage. You will need to clean the Carb.

No problem Alan. Got my 'Fingers Burnt' on this current project and need more time to sort it. May stick to small stuff that fits on the Dining Table for a while . I'm sure Paul will have a 'Niche' for it and get it working

Only just seen the discussion . I'm not 'In the Frame' on this one. I have no space for another project yet. Regards

Reference to my previous on the Villiers Engine, the Clutch housing came off ok. It was on a Taper. Packed all the bits away for that, as it will cost time and money that needs to be spent on this Mower and other things. The Cylinder from John/Alan's Donor Mower was taken to the Media Blasters today in the hope it will clean up enough and get someone local to see if it can be sharpened up. If so , at least I can get the Mower working. No luck or response on the other one still. The Grass Catcher is a dilemma for me, as it needs some attention. The current condition is useable, but I suspect it would be better to bring it up to a standard like the Mower. May look a bit odd otherwise. The receipt for it when purchased new- I can obtain new Jade coloured Rot proof Canvas and replace the rusted steel rod frame ends , while keeping the galvanised base plate as it is very good. Would bring it back to looking newish ?.... I shall see how it goes.

The whole unit look's like a good project there Alan. I like the look of those little engines . Hypro Pumps are still around, so may be able to get parts still?. Maybe a Yellow Sprayer Challenge !!

I think it's been longer than a few years ago since they pulled out of Engines. Had the same challenges when I did one. So if you are going to sort this yourself and I don't know your Skill or equipment level?, you're going to need tools like a Dial Indicator or a Micrometer to set the BTDC measurement which is 0.080" (2.032mm). It will be easier though, now you have the Head off. Also a Torque Wrench that deals with Inch Pounds (or equivalent) is essential. As you probably know, I've already checked the availability of some parts you may need and they are out there. Jumping ahead in anticipation a bit here and hoping it saves you a bit of time, I have been checking numbers and it could be 1 of 4 Spec numbers for that Tractor. Using one as an example (75117h), the Crank part number is 30799 and is the same for the other 3 numbers (75118h/75117f/75118f).. ....the 'F' spec is for the Engines fitted to the '67' L/Ranger models. Would be a real blessing if it is the same