Anglo Traction

Great and unusual find Ewan. Reckon you're right to go down the path of dismantle, clean, fix and re assemble. A good, aged example

Lucky man, I do like those early machines, so much character and quality. Those conical ended tanks are great. Looks late 20s - early 30s, is the engine a Villers MkVIII-C (147 cc)?. Hopefully one day I'll find something similar.

Ah, now with the pics you have posted, the mist is clearing and I see your problem (I think). You are looking for a replacement Engine Breather pipe!, the Breather unit being the rectangular object on the right of your first picture. The pipe fits between that box and onto the Carb (large Flo jet). The part number should be 280100 in the Part Manual which I believe supercedes to 692253 now . If you search for either or both those numbers, you will find a screen full of choices price-wise and image comparison. Also, my records show your engine to be allocated to 1984 W'horse B115 range, as the 1982 recorded date of your Tractor model shows engine 253707- 0209-01 ?. Can check date of your engine with it's serial number. As you have a high mounted Fuel Tank and a vertical shaft engine, you don't always have a fuel pump fitted?. Let us know when you're sorted. Edit- @ 1716. The Tractor was actually built in 1981, scheduled build for Thursday 15th November, so the original engine would also have been 1981. (Models/numbers changed around September when producing Model versions for the following year started).

I looked up the parts Manual for your engine on the B & S website and should work for you to download a copy of both - B & S Manual So your Vac Hose part number is 393815 and is sold as a cut-to-size length. As the Vac Pump has 1/4" diameter in/outlets, I would hazard a guess that modern spec 1/4" bore x 1/2" outer dia fuel pipe will be 'more-than-rigid' enough for the job. Obtainable from the likes of Halfords. No sign of response on Ebay with the part number, but enter - briggs and stratton fuel hose 393815 into google and you'll be flooded with variations of responses (other search engines available).

1- Details are on page133/134. Wouldn't bother printing the whole Manual, just the bits you need for now, unless you really need some boring bedtime reading! . 2- Providing the bolts are cleaned up ok (heads and threads), you can reuse them. They are grade 8 (hardened/tempered) should have 6 radiating lines on the heads. If you have removed, pushed them through a piece of card with their position noted, you can swap the bolts from the hot side of the engine to the cool side & V Versa. If you haven't, be careful to check the lengths of them, as I believe one should be 1/4" longer to fit the engine lift eye position which, if I recall correctly should be in number 1 bolt position on the sequence diagram?. 3- Plug the bolt holes below the surface level with oiled rag as mentioned before. Oiled rag over the lowered piston to catch dust, dirt etc. Cylinder is cast iron, so you can have at it with a softish rotary wire brush to speed up the process. Watch for broken off wire strands in the bore area. When you're done, you can vacuum or blast the top clean with air. Unscrew the rags from the holes with long nosed pliers or tweezers. Uncover the piston and do that, then you're done, unless you plan to do the valves as well?.

To be honest, I would say you are there with it. Hopefully the new gasket rolled lip will sit in the same depression area remaining. You have enough flat area for a gas tight joint now. The original pic of the head showing the blown gas leak areas, which I later showed and denoted (but forgot to explain) with green arrows are now fine. There is just the chamber carbon deposit areas to finish back to bright and you're done with the C/head. Nearly time to arm yourself with a torque wrench and bolt it down to the sequence in the manual.

B6L versus B6S . Both have the same heat range, but the B6S has the shorter reach (screw thread into C/head) which is only 3/8" and so would not be able to dissipate tip heat away and into the C/head. B6L (correct equivalent to Champion RH10C) has a reach of 7/16", so more thread engagement in the C/head which will bring the heat dissipation rate back to where it should be for that part of the Spark Plug. You have probably deduced that the lower the number on NGK Plugs, the hotter it runs (the plug that is, not the engine). Champion = higher the number, the hotter it runs. As you/we will never know what conditions were when the previous owner was running it (with/without Filter etc), it is difficult to say. For your situation, once you've got it back to how it should be with a good A/Filter and what you've done C/head & Carb-wise, it will run fine. Not burning Oil yet and will have efficient cooling.

Comparing what you started with, it looks a whole lot better. I have never seen one that badly distorted. In an attempt to be practical and honest, I can't help thinking that it needs more done to prevent further leaks?, but I'm a pretty fussy over-cautious person. If you stop there, call it a day and fit it, there is a risk it will leech gasses past the gasket to the two uppermost, red circled bolt holes. I can''t say what the level of risk is. At least the head would not be distorted again when bolted down to spec (unless the cylinder gasket face is not flat). I can't be sure but I think those 2 bolts go onto blind holes?, so may contain any further leaking, but will make it difficult to remove them in future. The 3rd red circled hole with the black arrow carries the bolt which I believe sometimes breaks into the Exhaust outlet chamber. That looks like it would be ok, as you have a small, clean flat face between it and the head chamber. I understand/admire your self disciplined, marathon efforts to get to this stage, but it's your call really. Maybe if you could continue at least to the point of obtaining a flat 'land' on the chamber side of those two top circled bolt holes?. It may help if you place the head down on the paper and presuming you are right handed, place the palm of your hand (ball of your thumb) over the Spark Plug hole area, you can apply slightly more pressure to that area and less over the opposite end. You would emphasise more localised metal removal that way and still achieve flatness. I don't think there is any issue with Valve (lift) Head clearance as a result of metal removal, but it would be worth checking anyway. Just wondering if you have obtained/downloaded a copy of the K series Engine Service Manual?. It's very helpful. Keep at it, you'll be rewarded with a better running Kohler in the end.

Consider it yours Norm. SOLD

Copied Norm. Consider this yours and Item(s) sold.

Genuine Kohler parts now surplus to my needs. Was for a K341 job- These kits are often seen/sold as (aftermarket) able to fit the whole range of engines. The Kohler Manual states different part numbers for various Carb numbers. I have established that the small difference appears to be the bore size of the float valve body. Otherwise, these appear to be same dimensions as the 25 757 01-s Kit. If you wish, I can check your KOHLER Carb number. Note this is for Kohler, not WALBO Carbs. £12. posted to UK address.

Purchased from the U.S for an engine rebuild. Only got as far as a trial fitting (Crank journal bolts were only torqued to 180in lbs). Then found a cylinder crack. Engine scrapped and these parts stored as a back up for my Raider 12 (still on original parts). Confident it will outlast me, I no longer wish to hold these as spares. Rings are fitted as per manual/instructions. Only marks in the Rod bores are from Caliper measurements. Style 'A' Piston (full skirt) + Gudgeon Pin +clips = 455gms. Connecting Rod (complete) = 339gms. - £45.00 plus postage UK only

Part of my Workshop stock tidy up. This carb is from a 1981 K301 engine. I have completed what is known as a full rebuild on this and is returned to virtually new condition. What has been done was covered in a Topic on Redsquare a while back, so I've added a link here for scrutiny- -CARB- Yes, you have the option to pay much less for a new Chinese copy, but this one now has quality built into it to run for many more years with some care. It was assembled with a new repair kit, super clean inside and out. Stored in that condition until I set it up on one of my Tractors to adjust the settings for correct running mentioned here in this link- Set up Carb on K301 Returned to storage until now. Should bolt straight onto a K301/M12. Note- this was set up and adjusted on an engine in good condition and a clean Air Filter. You may still need to make further adjustments. Includes the Governor Arm linkage and Fuel inlet elbow £45.

Yep!, and just to embelish what Norm says, the basic rules are - always use a metal that is the same as, or softer than the parent metal (unless you are very careful). Hard Carbon can be removed easier after soaking with various types of oil. I use an old brand called Redex, but even WD40 will assist it. The added advantage of this is that the bits of Carbon will stick together and to the scraper, rather than fall down gap like the side of the piston. I found bringing the piston to top dead centre. Cutting a strip of card that is just thin enough to fit down around the side of the piston. The length of the strip depends on the piston diameter. In your case, it needs to be almost exactly 300mm long and probably 7mm wide. Clean gap out first with a piece of pointed plastic of the same thickness. Add engine oil to the gap around the piston and set the cardboard down around the gap. This will stop most of the carbon rubbish being trapped there while cleaning the piston crown off. I stuffed pieces of rag into the bolt holes and removed afterwards. Clean the cylinder gasket face and valve area first, then do the piston crown last. Clean the piston, then remove the cardboard with any bits still stuck to it. Wipe area again with a lightly oil moistened lint free rag. Add oil around the gap again. Lower the piston in the cylinder and wipe any remaining bits of oil/carbon away. Re-assemble. Just a note on your point ref the worn throttle shaft, yes it can be a running issue, but it's affects are assuming that- -the Air Filter is new and not clogged. -the Carb is at least set to the correct preliminary settings and the ignition is correctly set. Only then will the engine be running lean with extra air. It will also run hotter, which will show up on the exhaust valve colouring. In your case the exhaust valve is black which indicates running rich. I suspect your Air Filter is not new, as the extra air through the throttle shaft is being compensated by the lack of it through the filter making the mixture rich. Hope I explained that clearly for you. Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Nice big shed there. Should have that filled 'in the blink of an eye' I considered my Garage door security last year. No fixings or handles on the outside now. It's a 1962 wooden Westland of Yeovil door, to which I added wire mesh in the recesses (anti chainsaw). Then filled with insulation. Have 2 x 12" Brenton Bolts (plus the latch) on the top and 2 x 15mm Drop Bolts into concrete on the bottom. The sides are restrained by the heavy steel (anti saw) channel guides. Major improvement to the temperature stability after draught proofing. Internal side access shows the FD60 rated Fire door, seals and Insurance approved Yale lock. Feel much happier now, as it's integral on the ground floor- Boosted the fire warning system and extingishers too.

This Gasket looks perfectly serviceable as an example (others are available)- K341 . Someone has de-coked that in the not-too-distant past and may not have checked the flatness before refitting, or bolted it down in the wrong sequence and torque setting. Clearly burning fuel at a rich setting, as the exhaust valve should be pale fawn/white colour. The good news is, it is not yet burning any oil from worn rings or cylinder. You should not have a problem cleaning the face up on the head. It's quite straight forward. Just take it slow and let the weight of the head sit on the W or D paper when circulating it. You can use a P320 grade or P240 if it's rough to start, then progress to finer grades. No need to press down hard on it. Use a brush to clean the dust out of the paper regularly (use a mask). If you find it hard to tell the high/low spots, use a coloured felt tip pen to highlight them. I had to learn and have done all my engines that way, even if they didn't need it. I had to start with examples like this- to this- Done properly, you won't need to revisit it after.

Yep!, as Norm says. No idea what they go for in your 'neck of the woods', but you can get an idea of their sale-ability and rough values here in UK by having a peruse of this link- -BIKE- Worth also checking the completed listings in that link.

Firstly, don't throw the old carb away. I presume this is for a 16hp K341 or Magnum?. The Carb in your pic looks aftermarket. The original was either a Kohler with #30 in raised letters in the casting above the venturi aperture when looking through past the Choke plate. Or it is/was a Walbro. Both have different settings and the later ones from the 80s had fixed Main/High speed needle jets. I have no experience with those Chinese Knockoffs, but have heard different opinions and experiences. Is that Carb specifically for a 16hp? or a generic one which states it fits all?. If the Needles actually adjust the mixtures, then the top one is the high speed/main, the angled side needle is the Idle mixture. Top screw is the Idle Speed adjuster. Need to know what your engine model, spec and serial number is to establish correct needle settings. Will probably need to guess or take an average of the preliminary settings for a chinese one. As for the Head Gasket, the quoted genuine Kohler ones are preferable, as they still have the folded over edges that are exposed to combustion forces. Aftermarket ones are likely to be just a pressed sandwich style, unless you can see what you are buying. I which case, they will work ok. Flatness of the head/cylinder faces are essential. you can check the head flatness after a clean on a good sheet of thick plate glass (smooth and very flat) and feeler gauges. You should not be able to get a 3 thousandth (0.003") of an inch feeler gauge between the 2 faces anywhere around it. If can-....... obtain 2 new sheets of non-creased Wet or Dry P400/P600 (1 of each). Proceed to flat the head gasket face down on the P400 (dry) in circular movements until the high/low merge. Finish on the P600 the same way. The small impressions left by the original gasket do not really need to be removed, just aim for a smooth clean area all around. Head bolts are torqued to 28-30 lbs ft and rechecked after an hours running. Once the head leaks are sorted, you can sort the carb. Good luck Edit -Bit slow, Reiver beat me to it.

Not sure of the weight and track width/footprint of your MG2, but the frame supports under the floor are probably laid out like this- The 2 longitudinal beams that taper off to the front are the ones that the boards are fixed to, with the ends resting around the edge in the frame angle iron. The 4 red circled points are weak and only the flat edge of the Angle iron is welded to the frame to clear the leaf springs/mounts, so you may need/want to beef them up. My neighbour used 38mm (1.1/2" thick boards). Good project....enjoy it.

That look's in reasonable nick Chris. I remember my Dad keeping his paraffin in a real nice galvanised 2 Gall can with the brass lever-lock cap and chain. Don't know what happened to it. Going to move the mowers on.......need the space.

Sorry Ewan and any other's b'days that I have missed. Congrats to the 'Key of the Door' Ewan, but I daresay you are more than capable of making one yourself with no sweat!. Regards

I've been to look at my neighbour's today and he had only sealed the side door temporarily, so it's back in use. He's finished positioning the boards for fit, but is taking them back out to finish the Frame/Chassis jobs. This shows the r/h rear corner where the outer skin tucks inside the angle iron frame- He will be fitting 40 x 40 box steel on the threshold edge to protect the first board's edge. And the same corner on outside. Double sealed with silicone, then flexible acrylic between the outer skin and Angle Iron frame before the temporary red sealing paint- This inside shot shows the extension space to the front which originally housed the Digger Arm and Bucket. I think the window is slide opening and the walls are lined with ply - And the front end view- Rear additional doors at the top to fill the originally open gap. The lock with a sliding linkage mechanism- But he hinted that the back doors will disappear in favour of a H Duty roller shutte. It will serve more as storage for his current early 70s Honda 4 projects and the M'bike trailer he's just finished building, but wants it road worthy too.

Just when I increase my workshop space by 40% shifting a W'Horse n Deck, Roly leaves me these- The Maxees is a 14", possibly a Mk2. pretty common, but the serial stamps are clear for I.D-ing. No idea of the make of other one and has a 7. 3/4" cut width. Poss 20-30s. Not a machine, but this will jog a few memories from up to the 60s- I'll fix up and Oily Rag this one. Edit- deleted surplus image

Thanks Ewan, Yes, Stumbled over that backrest on Auction (N.O.Stock). Had to drill 2 more holes to fit the older Bostrom version for correct height, but real comfy. Going- Going- Gone !.

Reminds me of a skeletal version of a House Robot from the Wars......Dead Metal-ish . Regret not being able to pay a visit yet Ian. Hopefully in the near future.