Anglo Traction

Genuine Kohler parts now surplus to my needs. Was for a K341 job- These kits are often seen/sold as (aftermarket) able to fit the whole range of engines. The Kohler Manual states different part numbers for various Carb numbers. I have established that the small difference appears to be the bore size of the float valve body. Otherwise, these appear to be same dimensions as the 25 757 01-s Kit. If you wish, I can check your KOHLER Carb number. Note this is for Kohler, not WALBO Carbs. £12. posted to UK address.

Purchased from the U.S for an engine rebuild. Only got as far as a trial fitting (Crank journal bolts were only torqued to 180in lbs). Then found a cylinder crack. Engine scrapped and these parts stored as a back up for my Raider 12 (still on original parts). Confident it will outlast me, I no longer wish to hold these as spares. Rings are fitted as per manual/instructions. Only marks in the Rod bores are from Caliper measurements. Style 'A' Piston (full skirt) + Gudgeon Pin +clips = 455gms. Connecting Rod (complete) = 339gms. - £45.00 plus postage UK only

Part of my Workshop stock tidy up. This carb is from a 1981 K301 engine. I have completed what is known as a full rebuild on this and is returned to virtually new condition. What has been done was covered in a Topic on Redsquare a while back, so I've added a link here for scrutiny- -CARB- Yes, you have the option to pay much less for a new Chinese copy, but this one now has quality built into it to run for many more years with some care. It was assembled with a new repair kit, super clean inside and out. Stored in that condition until I set it up on one of my Tractors to adjust the settings for correct running mentioned here in this link- Set up Carb on K301 Returned to storage until now. Should bolt straight onto a K301/M12. Note- this was set up and adjusted on an engine in good condition and a clean Air Filter. You may still need to make further adjustments. Includes the Governor Arm linkage and Fuel inlet elbow £45.

Yep!, and just to embelish what Norm says, the basic rules are - always use a metal that is the same as, or softer than the parent metal (unless you are very careful). Hard Carbon can be removed easier after soaking with various types of oil. I use an old brand called Redex, but even WD40 will assist it. The added advantage of this is that the bits of Carbon will stick together and to the scraper, rather than fall down gap like the side of the piston. I found bringing the piston to top dead centre. Cutting a strip of card that is just thin enough to fit down around the side of the piston. The length of the strip depends on the piston diameter. In your case, it needs to be almost exactly 300mm long and probably 7mm wide. Clean gap out first with a piece of pointed plastic of the same thickness. Add engine oil to the gap around the piston and set the cardboard down around the gap. This will stop most of the carbon rubbish being trapped there while cleaning the piston crown off. I stuffed pieces of rag into the bolt holes and removed afterwards. Clean the cylinder gasket face and valve area first, then do the piston crown last. Clean the piston, then remove the cardboard with any bits still stuck to it. Wipe area again with a lightly oil moistened lint free rag. Add oil around the gap again. Lower the piston in the cylinder and wipe any remaining bits of oil/carbon away. Re-assemble. Just a note on your point ref the worn throttle shaft, yes it can be a running issue, but it's affects are assuming that- -the Air Filter is new and not clogged. -the Carb is at least set to the correct preliminary settings and the ignition is correctly set. Only then will the engine be running lean with extra air. It will also run hotter, which will show up on the exhaust valve colouring. In your case the exhaust valve is black which indicates running rich. I suspect your Air Filter is not new, as the extra air through the throttle shaft is being compensated by the lack of it through the filter making the mixture rich. Hope I explained that clearly for you. Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Nice big shed there. Should have that filled 'in the blink of an eye' I considered my Garage door security last year. No fixings or handles on the outside now. It's a 1962 wooden Westland of Yeovil door, to which I added wire mesh in the recesses (anti chainsaw). Then filled with insulation. Have 2 x 12" Brenton Bolts (plus the latch) on the top and 2 x 15mm Drop Bolts into concrete on the bottom. The sides are restrained by the heavy steel (anti saw) channel guides. Major improvement to the temperature stability after draught proofing. Internal side access shows the FD60 rated Fire door, seals and Insurance approved Yale lock. Feel much happier now, as it's integral on the ground floor- Boosted the fire warning system and extingishers too.

This Gasket looks perfectly serviceable as an example (others are available)- K341 . Someone has de-coked that in the not-too-distant past and may not have checked the flatness before refitting, or bolted it down in the wrong sequence and torque setting. Clearly burning fuel at a rich setting, as the exhaust valve should be pale fawn/white colour. The good news is, it is not yet burning any oil from worn rings or cylinder. You should not have a problem cleaning the face up on the head. It's quite straight forward. Just take it slow and let the weight of the head sit on the W or D paper when circulating it. You can use a P320 grade or P240 if it's rough to start, then progress to finer grades. No need to press down hard on it. Use a brush to clean the dust out of the paper regularly (use a mask). If you find it hard to tell the high/low spots, use a coloured felt tip pen to highlight them. I had to learn and have done all my engines that way, even if they didn't need it. I had to start with examples like this- to this- Done properly, you won't need to revisit it after.

Yep!, as Norm says. No idea what they go for in your 'neck of the woods', but you can get an idea of their sale-ability and rough values here in UK by having a peruse of this link- -BIKE- Worth also checking the completed listings in that link.

Firstly, don't throw the old carb away. I presume this is for a 16hp K341 or Magnum?. The Carb in your pic looks aftermarket. The original was either a Kohler with #30 in raised letters in the casting above the venturi aperture when looking through past the Choke plate. Or it is/was a Walbro. Both have different settings and the later ones from the 80s had fixed Main/High speed needle jets. I have no experience with those Chinese Knockoffs, but have heard different opinions and experiences. Is that Carb specifically for a 16hp? or a generic one which states it fits all?. If the Needles actually adjust the mixtures, then the top one is the high speed/main, the angled side needle is the Idle mixture. Top screw is the Idle Speed adjuster. Need to know what your engine model, spec and serial number is to establish correct needle settings. Will probably need to guess or take an average of the preliminary settings for a chinese one. As for the Head Gasket, the quoted genuine Kohler ones are preferable, as they still have the folded over edges that are exposed to combustion forces. Aftermarket ones are likely to be just a pressed sandwich style, unless you can see what you are buying. I which case, they will work ok. Flatness of the head/cylinder faces are essential. you can check the head flatness after a clean on a good sheet of thick plate glass (smooth and very flat) and feeler gauges. You should not be able to get a 3 thousandth (0.003") of an inch feeler gauge between the 2 faces anywhere around it. If can-....... obtain 2 new sheets of non-creased Wet or Dry P400/P600 (1 of each). Proceed to flat the head gasket face down on the P400 (dry) in circular movements until the high/low merge. Finish on the P600 the same way. The small impressions left by the original gasket do not really need to be removed, just aim for a smooth clean area all around. Head bolts are torqued to 28-30 lbs ft and rechecked after an hours running. Once the head leaks are sorted, you can sort the carb. Good luck Edit -Bit slow, Reiver beat me to it.

Not sure of the weight and track width/footprint of your MG2, but the frame supports under the floor are probably laid out like this- The 2 longitudinal beams that taper off to the front are the ones that the boards are fixed to, with the ends resting around the edge in the frame angle iron. The 4 red circled points are weak and only the flat edge of the Angle iron is welded to the frame to clear the leaf springs/mounts, so you may need/want to beef them up. My neighbour used 38mm (1.1/2" thick boards). Good project....enjoy it.

That look's in reasonable nick Chris. I remember my Dad keeping his paraffin in a real nice galvanised 2 Gall can with the brass lever-lock cap and chain. Don't know what happened to it. Going to move the mowers on.......need the space.

Sorry Ewan and any other's b'days that I have missed. Congrats to the 'Key of the Door' Ewan, but I daresay you are more than capable of making one yourself with no sweat!. Regards

I've been to look at my neighbour's today and he had only sealed the side door temporarily, so it's back in use. He's finished positioning the boards for fit, but is taking them back out to finish the Frame/Chassis jobs. This shows the r/h rear corner where the outer skin tucks inside the angle iron frame- He will be fitting 40 x 40 box steel on the threshold edge to protect the first board's edge. And the same corner on outside. Double sealed with silicone, then flexible acrylic between the outer skin and Angle Iron frame before the temporary red sealing paint- This inside shot shows the extension space to the front which originally housed the Digger Arm and Bucket. I think the window is slide opening and the walls are lined with ply - And the front end view- Rear additional doors at the top to fill the originally open gap. The lock with a sliding linkage mechanism- But he hinted that the back doors will disappear in favour of a H Duty roller shutte. It will serve more as storage for his current early 70s Honda 4 projects and the M'bike trailer he's just finished building, but wants it road worthy too.

Just when I increase my workshop space by 40% shifting a W'Horse n Deck, Roly leaves me these- The Maxees is a 14", possibly a Mk2. pretty common, but the serial stamps are clear for I.D-ing. No idea of the make of other one and has a 7. 3/4" cut width. Poss 20-30s. Not a machine, but this will jog a few memories from up to the 60s- I'll fix up and Oily Rag this one. Edit- deleted surplus image

Thanks Ewan, Yes, Stumbled over that backrest on Auction (N.O.Stock). Had to drill 2 more holes to fit the older Bostrom version for correct height, but real comfy. Going- Going- Gone !.

Reminds me of a skeletal version of a House Robot from the Wars......Dead Metal-ish . Regret not being able to pay a visit yet Ian. Hopefully in the near future.

I have used these people before and I see they have 5/8" x 18 (UNF) -CLEVIS-

Yes it is Norm, I like the whole design. Very precise and versatile. Will even atomise paraffin to run an engine (if run on petrol first for 20 seconds). No washers! , all joints are machined tapered fits. Although they were noted for drips, occasional flooding etc, I think if they are carefully cleaned and assembled, they won't do that. Fortunately, I now have a full copy of (c1926) service instructions for these carbs to work with. No secrets or magic Nigel. Most of the stuff I use is found under the kitchen sink. Old worn out green scouring pad (softer). Shiny Sink cream cleaner. White vinegar. Piece of Aluminium for a scraper, old toothbrushes for the outside of carb body. Soft steel/brass wire brushes. Inside- Thinners for cellulose (acetone), tooth and small inter-dental brushes. Old version 'T' cut. Then put some time and elbow grease into it and wash thoroughly in thinners-

Confronted with a problem while assessing parts for a current project. A 96 year old carburettor with a damaged, rusted up Mushroom Air Filter- Side angle showing it's firm, seized up attachment to the Carb body- I had given it a dose of my preferred homemade Penetrating Oil brew as I wanted to remove the Filter without damage so I can maybe reuse the threaded Back Plate with a new dome on it. But what to use that would provide a good gripping turn force without damaging it......... Then the light bulb illuminated above my head (no emoji for it). I stopped servicing my own vehicles a few years ago, but I remembered that I had a real good Oil Filter Extractor for use in confined spaces- Gently held the carb in a vise- .... and proceeded to carefully apply an 'undo' force- applied about 20 ft lbs and it freed up and undid- No damage whatsoever. I was then able to finish dismantling the carb for inspection and will be able to make a new cover for the filter. Glad to say that the carb is fully cleaned and serviceable, but not as shiny as it was when new, it was mostly nickel plated.

I imagine home built forum section would be appropriate, if it is moved, but don't personally see a problem with it here. The H box is the same as my fellow neighbour's. He obtained one to accommodate his Kubota Mini Digger some years ago. Later, he also planned to use it for camping. Converted the front using a cut down 'over cab' wind deflector which were fitted to 3.5t Vans etc to cut down wind resistance. Also modified the Tailgate area with extra high doors. Sealed up the side access. Currently, he is replacing all the floor boards because there appears to be a design defect, the lower lip of the cladding is tucked inside of the Angle iron lower frame and rots the end of the boards. He's finished treating all the metal chassis parts. If you wish, I will see if I can get some pics for you.

I'm not familiar with Leccy fuel pumps, or diesels, but I am aware that many people in the U.S fit electric fuel pumps as replacements on their Wheel Horses. FACET is a brand that seems to crop up a lot. The pressure rating and litres/gallons per hour is important, as well as any bypass for pressure relief. Presume 12volts. The pump could be anywhere on the machine, so you will have to follow the fuel system to locate it. It will help to establish what the current (iffy) pump specification is and start form there. Also check the fuel line Inside diameter. Lots of pumps online to look at.

I remember it now. It was the Finger Bar on the front, I seem to recall your Dad (meadowfield) adapting it to fit sometime back. Looks a good solid machine now.

No luck so far with finding earlier examples of garden size machines. Found the earliest Ride on Mower was 1902 made by Ransomes for Large Estate properties - LINK-. Nothing for yer average gardener use though. I'll stop this topic now and start one on the engine first if it's a good 'en, as it will be the oldest one I've ever done and there is absolutely nothing I can find out about them. Bit more info on the Carb though and the Clutch will be a real challenge. The rest of the machine will be a long job if it's salvageable and may warrant it's own topic. Regards.

Oh you're making me feel guilty now Nigel . The other one may well be going as well yet. Been test riding it over the last week to continue checking it over (and just to drive around for the sake of it). Sooooo comfortable with the backrest fitted, so here's 2 final pics of it- bye bye C-120.

Listed as being delivered and fitted to a Jacobsen machine. It's a 10hp K241. If the serial number is readable, it will give the year of manufacture.

Made some progress on dismantling inspection of this engine. The nut came off the fan end ok. Looks promising so far. With a freed up crank 'n' piston, proceeded to carefully pull the cylinder. Quite surprised to find the internal condition pretty good before cleaning.........thought you may like to see what the size of the Piston rings used to be 96 years ago- To give you an idea, the bore diameter is 70mm. 2 of the 3 rings were stuck in their grooves initally, but just after I took this, they'd gently sprang out and all good so far. Quick look at the uncleaned bore is also promising which is dead smooth as far as can see-