Anglo Traction

I have used these people before and I see they have 5/8" x 18 (UNF) -CLEVIS-

Yes it is Norm, I like the whole design. Very precise and versatile. Will even atomise paraffin to run an engine (if run on petrol first for 20 seconds). No washers! , all joints are machined tapered fits. Although they were noted for drips, occasional flooding etc, I think if they are carefully cleaned and assembled, they won't do that. Fortunately, I now have a full copy of (c1926) service instructions for these carbs to work with. No secrets or magic Nigel. Most of the stuff I use is found under the kitchen sink. Old worn out green scouring pad (softer). Shiny Sink cream cleaner. White vinegar. Piece of Aluminium for a scraper, old toothbrushes for the outside of carb body. Soft steel/brass wire brushes. Inside- Thinners for cellulose (acetone), tooth and small inter-dental brushes. Old version 'T' cut. Then put some time and elbow grease into it and wash thoroughly in thinners-

Confronted with a problem while assessing parts for a current project. A 96 year old carburettor with a damaged, rusted up Mushroom Air Filter- Side angle showing it's firm, seized up attachment to the Carb body- I had given it a dose of my preferred homemade Penetrating Oil brew as I wanted to remove the Filter without damage so I can maybe reuse the threaded Back Plate with a new dome on it. But what to use that would provide a good gripping turn force without damaging it......... Then the light bulb illuminated above my head (no emoji for it). I stopped servicing my own vehicles a few years ago, but I remembered that I had a real good Oil Filter Extractor for use in confined spaces- Gently held the carb in a vise- .... and proceeded to carefully apply an 'undo' force- applied about 20 ft lbs and it freed up and undid- No damage whatsoever. I was then able to finish dismantling the carb for inspection and will be able to make a new cover for the filter. Glad to say that the carb is fully cleaned and serviceable, but not as shiny as it was when new, it was mostly nickel plated.

I imagine home built forum section would be appropriate, if it is moved, but don't personally see a problem with it here. The H box is the same as my fellow neighbour's. He obtained one to accommodate his Kubota Mini Digger some years ago. Later, he also planned to use it for camping. Converted the front using a cut down 'over cab' wind deflector which were fitted to 3.5t Vans etc to cut down wind resistance. Also modified the Tailgate area with extra high doors. Sealed up the side access. Currently, he is replacing all the floor boards because there appears to be a design defect, the lower lip of the cladding is tucked inside of the Angle iron lower frame and rots the end of the boards. He's finished treating all the metal chassis parts. If you wish, I will see if I can get some pics for you.

I'm not familiar with Leccy fuel pumps, or diesels, but I am aware that many people in the U.S fit electric fuel pumps as replacements on their Wheel Horses. FACET is a brand that seems to crop up a lot. The pressure rating and litres/gallons per hour is important, as well as any bypass for pressure relief. Presume 12volts. The pump could be anywhere on the machine, so you will have to follow the fuel system to locate it. It will help to establish what the current (iffy) pump specification is and start form there. Also check the fuel line Inside diameter. Lots of pumps online to look at.

I remember it now. It was the Finger Bar on the front, I seem to recall your Dad (meadowfield) adapting it to fit sometime back. Looks a good solid machine now.

No luck so far with finding earlier examples of garden size machines. Found the earliest Ride on Mower was 1902 made by Ransomes for Large Estate properties - LINK-. Nothing for yer average gardener use though. I'll stop this topic now and start one on the engine first if it's a good 'en, as it will be the oldest one I've ever done and there is absolutely nothing I can find out about them. Bit more info on the Carb though and the Clutch will be a real challenge. The rest of the machine will be a long job if it's salvageable and may warrant it's own topic. Regards.

Oh you're making me feel guilty now Nigel . The other one may well be going as well yet. Been test riding it over the last week to continue checking it over (and just to drive around for the sake of it). Sooooo comfortable with the backrest fitted, so here's 2 final pics of it- bye bye C-120.

Listed as being delivered and fitted to a Jacobsen machine. It's a 10hp K241. If the serial number is readable, it will give the year of manufacture.

Made some progress on dismantling inspection of this engine. The nut came off the fan end ok. Looks promising so far. With a freed up crank 'n' piston, proceeded to carefully pull the cylinder. Quite surprised to find the internal condition pretty good before cleaning.........thought you may like to see what the size of the Piston rings used to be 96 years ago- To give you an idea, the bore diameter is 70mm. 2 of the 3 rings were stuck in their grooves initally, but just after I took this, they'd gently sprang out and all good so far. Quick look at the uncleaned bore is also promising which is dead smooth as far as can see-

A sunny Sunday I recall, about 70 degrees F. Near the start point for me/us. He had to remove the rear silencers for some reason to do the run(s)?. I seem to remember it being more pink in colour, also shown on the cover of Custom Car Mag earlier in the year. Ah!, those were the days. Cars, Girls and country Pubs to chill out at.

Have to go back to the 70's Alain to beat the first Custom Roller 'of-a-sort'. I saw this thing back around 1973 at the Brighton Speed Trials along the marine Parade. He had engine issues at the time and only made 86mph over the standing 1/4 mile. Standing 20 feet away from it made your stomach resonate when at 1/2 throttle. Only 27 litres.......... (Merlin from a Tank). Couple of links here- Also a response from Rolls- LINK

All wheels/tyres swapped. Several test drives and all seals doing what they should do- Had a bit of wear slack in the Clutch shaft where it passes through the Frame (frame is the bearing). Not a good design as it is often neglected and deprived of grease throughout it's life. Could not pull the spirol pin from the spring side of the shaft bracket, so made up an extra bearing that would bolt on using the last hole in the frame nearest the Transmission- It's pulled the shaft back to where is should be and applies restraint from forward, upward and downward belt/spring forces. Well greased, it is now smooth in operation and no rattles. Tractor is now ready for collection

Nothing special Norm. Fan fixed to Sprocket on the Crank. Fan for additional cooling due partially enclosed compared to the exposed situation it would normally be in when fixed to a motor bicycle. Had to check the 172cc engine out in the Books. That was an up-rated engine first produced in 1924. The first prototype engine went to a French Racing team (Monet Goyon) and it powered them to winning the French GP of that year. Known as the 'Sports' initially, then 'Sports' with the Auto Lubrication system, then Super Sports T.T and lastly the 'Brooklands'. However, I digress. This engine is the first 2 stroke 269cc engine designed and built by Villiers (in 1913). Fitted to a multitude of Motor cycle makes, direct belt or chain drive initially. Known as the Mk I (should be roman numerals) up to 1916, then Mk II, Mk III. Mk IV is claimed to be the first introduction of their Flywheel Magneto, as prior to this, they used an external chain driven Bosch Mag, but the war got in the way of supply. This engine, the MkV was discontinued from Sept 1922. They built 3 other engine designs (from 1923) - 150, 250 and 350cc as the Mk VI. So everything hangs on this being in working order. It is complete and has the original Carb with it. Also has the Villiers patent Free Engine Clutch. All these bits will need to work ok when fixed. Good news is that my concoction of fluid for loosening bit up worked on the siezed piston/crank after just 1 hour ! and found it was 'freed up' by accident !. So need to remove that nut on the end by the Fan first without any stress on the crank, then pull the cylinder to check the bore/rings and piston. Might have a source of used spare parts too. Also may have a replacement option for the HT Coil (same style).

+ 1 Norm, Only just logged in to find you had aged over the weekend !. I don't have birthdays nowadays, just an anniversary Beer (Badgers Fursty Ferret) or a Cider (Frosty Jack). Belated best wishes anyway.

Haven't got any pics of the whole unit, it's in bits. I'm head down dealing with the engine assessment (when I'm not prepping the C-120 for sale). If it can't be bought back to life, then it will just be large boat anchor, or garden sculpture potential. The latter was the case for many years, hence the corrosion. The Magneto is clean as it was covered from the elements. Highly unlikely to get a spark out of it. Confirmed the engine date is 1922 with the serial letter/numbers and only have a couple of reference shots of the engine for what they are worth-

Good to hear it's a 'runner'. Keeps you fit Ray at that speed. Presume you know the imbalance/vibration is likely to be with the disc or blades....be the first place I would look.

It's a winter project and not clear if it can be brought back to working order. If it can, I'll reveal and run a topic.

Seems we can end up paying twice for things. Once for purchase, and then your own time to fix it properly before installing. At least you know it's done properly

Surprising how long to OEM belts seem to last. Should get a few more years if you're lucky (fingers crossed). Oh yeah!. Very true observation

Had 3 driving sessions to check the Trans out and all is well/smooth for gear changes with positive selection. Found a tiny weep in the Brake Shaft seal, so I'm replacing them all with spring lipped type seals- Don't recall any leaks amongst the dirt from when I obtained it, but it has been stored drained for 6 years. Used white lithium grease to run them onto the shafts. Other side to do yet to and swapping over to Turf Maxxis Kevlars on the rear and wide turfs on the front. Put the Gear selector cover panel back on- Also pressed the original steering wheel off the old upper shaft so the new owner has the option to swap them over. So I have been active.....honest!.

Currently working on an early 1920s pile of rust and dirt and is/was legitimately a Ride on. Were there any machines made in UK before then that filled the criteria of a Ride On?. I/c engine powered, seat and steering that was mass produced for the homeowner market for gardening type jobs. I'm doubtful of any earlier examples based on dates of patent for clutches, but would always be glad to know of an earlier example . I'll ask the same question on RS to see what was floating around in the early 20th century that resembled a Ride On in the U.S.

Very nice example you have there. ideal condition to keep as it is with the oily rag etc. Can't quite make out which Villiers Mk is in it?. Trying to research early 20s Villiers myself at the moment.

Superb job! and now a very usable machine. Well done sir !.

We all have to endure that experience Norm and we all enjoy it as much as you appear to in the Pic. The important thing was were you able to have a few beers?. Reminds me of Wesley Pegden's reluctance to wear a suit and it kept making him turn left . Hope you had a good day.