Anglo Traction

I was relying on you Koen to have seen one. Not sure how common they are, only seen one on Ebay.De in the last year. Very robust mower if well maintained. Impressed with the Wire pullstart cord, would outlast the engine. When I look at the Drive unit on the Mower, it reminds me of the WW1 Mk1 Tank Tails used for steering. I think they must have changed the colour scheme at some point, as this Sabo owned image is earlier than 1965 I believe-

That looks to be a very tidy, unmolested machine. They don't show up very often like that. Good aged patina. Lucky you had a spare motor. Is the Camshaft solid?, it looks like it, and must have had a high load force to snap it. Reminds me of Kohler 8hps where the hollow Camshaft breaks when it's hit by the Conrod. Also, Good Vid work there 👍.

Sorry Nigel, afraid it's going West to Dorset 😢. Had some theraputic time on the machines over the weekend. Made the Keys out of EN8 Steel which is a tad softer than the originals. shown here and the new machined blank- Milling the centre out (3/16"/ 4.75mm) to make the two keys- Finished Keys- The fit is now perfect in the Keyways and reassembly under way-

Missed this one somehow. Everything you need is -HERE- type your model number 02-11BP05 in the box.

Does that mean there will be both metric and imperial fixings as well?. I haven't done a LAV example.

Should do the job now Norm . I'm sure your ground up there is a lot softer than it is down this way at the mo' .

Sorry for delay in reply. Nope, not a chainsaw. It is a Mower, but I don't think they are common in UK?. It was a bit of a wreck and on it's second engine (1965 mower model). Judging by the damage to the rather massive Spindle housing, it had a catastrophic bearing failure as well when the original engine let go of it's bits. Presumably, it had new bearings fitted when the engine was replaced, and it was these bearings which had also failed and I was tasked with extracting them for replacement- It took an awful lot of pressure just to get the 25mm diameter spindle out. I then had the same problem with the bearings and found they had been bonded in to take up the gap caused by the old seized ones wearing the Housing bore out- Found the housing bore was nearly 0.4mm larger after cleaning it out. That gave me a problem, as the usual Loctite bearing fit fluids could only cope with much smaller gaps. Searched and found one that specified use for up to 0.5mm gaps, obtained new quality bearings and had to make a circular wire spacer to hold the lower bearing away from a worn lip in the bottom of the housing- Reassembled and bolted up under tension to ensure everything was aligned while the joint fluid was setting. Installed the completed Housing back onto the Deck and fitted the massive sharpened/balanced blade. All now smooth spinning ready for running- It was then that I had to tear into the engine to find why no spark. Not impressed with the motor's design, over complicated and lots of work removing bits to get at the coil etc. Took a 4 foot (1.22mtrs) scaffold bar on both the Flywheel nut and then again to get the Flywheel off the keyed taper. Anyway, all sorted and got it running despite the iffy Carb (now you know where that Fuel Tap I fixed went to)- This machine had a serious impact on it's left rear corner. You can just see the (good) Ali weld repair bottom right. It had damaged the Drive unit housing etc and I had to pull that straight and fix the pulleys etc- So there it is, a 1965 SABO rotary mower with drive unit. I only have to fix the handles on and it's ready for testing and fine tuning. It has no remote throttle on the handle, only a lever that lifts the drive unit clear of the ground!. The throttle lever is on the Carb!. Interesting machine and a mildly enjoyable challenge, but give me an old british job with old whitworth spanners and a good chance of obtaining spares and info. Which spookily is what is lined up for me next edit- Mods can move this to another forum as it is a pedestrian op machine if desired. I kept it here for continuity Regards

Having a clear out of the workshop and this is the first of the machines to go. In the process of installing a later Transmission. Why ?, well the old original one (5091 version) developed a tiny weep on the r/h axle seal and we all know they don't cure themselves. I suspected a worn needle bearing, so I checked it for up and down sloppy movement, as I won't sell it like that - Barely 0.007" up and down total with all the weight taken on the Jack, which is not that bad. I'm not happy just replacing the seal, so I'm going to rebuild this one and install the 103916 unit which is unmolested, clean shafts 'n' keyways, no leaks and had clean oil drained out of it- It will be used for mowing and towing duties, so it will have a heavy duty WH tow hitch fitted. Old tranny is on the left, replacement should be fitted this evening and I'll make the new woodruff keys over the weekend hopefully (in between watching Singapore GP)-

Welcome to the Forum. I other thing to check before buying any parts is to check all earth/ground connections in the Ignition circuits. Your Tractor model commenced in 1979 and has (should have) an Engine cradle with Anti vibration mounts. It calls for a cable to be fixed to an engine point and the cradle in order to maintain a good earth(ground) to make the circuits.They need to be clean metal contact. Diagram of the link cable (47) example for you- If any become rusted, the resistance increases and subsequently reduces current flow. This can restrict the current from the Coil, through the S/Plug to earth/ground. Earth/Ground connections include Solenoid, Condenser bodies, as well as the engine to frame. If the Starter motor spins the engine over ok, then that cradle to engine earth wire is proving a good connection, so you can check the other items mentioned If this doesn't help with the spark strength, then you may have to replace some parts. If you have a multimeter, you can test most of the parts and connections to see what you need. You can also set the static ignition timing accurately with it too.

Quality work Alan and good clear Macro pics .

Another long time customer here for Meetens. Presume your engine is a K241 10hp? with a starter/generator. What are you in need of ?. The lack of offers ref your steering bushes may be due to nobody knowing what they look like. I suspect the only choice is to find somebody to make them for you. Maybe we could be of more help if you post an image of the item(s) and some dimensions?.

I just love that Drummond , I only wish I had the time, space and ability to do it justice. Hope it finds a decent home

Very nice job there . When I finally obtained a cheapo 12t Press, it opened a whole new world of practicalities. I imagine with the Brake Press addition, you're sorted for every challenge. Also look's like you have everything else to hand in the workshop ! (insert green envy smiley here).

Update- Despite all efforts by this engine to avoid producing a Spark, it finally relented the other week after delving deep behind the Flywheel and checking/cleaning everything. Made some missing parts for the over complicated and non-repair friendly Bing Carb. Managed to get it to fire a few times, but suspected the Carb settings were out, as I had not touched them. Last Weds, able to get to it for an hour or so. Played with the Air Bleed and Governor, then burst into life with an impressive white smoke cloud. It had been parked up several years ago and in a poor state in both condition and mechanically. I'll post some pics of it and what it is attached to soon when it's in full running order and the owner gives me the OK.

Good news that it's a runner and no smoke. A clean fuel system is a must have with the long pipe run on these models. One thing that does need attention before driving it around too much is the left rear wheel hub needs to be pulled back away from the Transmission case end Oil Seal. The Hub should be flush with the Shaft end so that the Lock Screw closes down on the Woodruff Key like in this rough sketch- The cause of this is often assisted by a seal leak where the trans oil works it's way into the hub joints and loosens it up. 3/8" Square head Lock Screw should tighten down onto the Key at 30 ft lbs (approx 40.7 Nm).

Both ends of my Wheel Horses looked like that Grassbox when I got them. Nightmare to tap them all out and get straight. That looks a challenge too.

Been a while since I worked on this. Weather extremes have delayed setting up for paint preparation etc. Managed to finish the 4 tiny 1/4" square lidded Oil Boxes which was a 'Jewellers Job' Silver Soldering the tiny hinge tubes in place. The hinge pins are 0.5mm hard wire. The one in the picture is of the R/H 3rd Shaft, where I had to work around the standard bearing design and the additional steam valve I made and fitted there. The Oil Box is linked to the bearing by a short 1/16" dia copper tube. proper hex head bolts will be used in final assembly All the other Oil boxes not shown fit directly into their respective bearings- Changed the upper Steering Shaft bearing design with a more correct style version out of Gunmetal. Also fabricated and added the Tool tray on inside of the Hornplate to hide the dowel end of the steering shaft bearing. Steering shaft is 5/32" dia (nearly 4mm) - So till plodding on with this when opportunity arises.

Close with the Hydro Drive Belt. The number for that is 114895- If he needs one of those, then if it was mine, I would look to get an OEM Belt, irrespective of cost. 114895 is type HB (in U.S. Toro list) which is Agricultural grade. 82.95 Inches length. 21/32" x 13/32". Metric equivalent/alternatives have minor dimension differences.

Very good comprehensive info provided Angus . 3 different belt sizes and 5 Deck versions to sift through without it. Tractor is a 1989 ( 518-H was made in 88/89 only). Mower Deck is post 2000, and my records only go up to that date. However, the preceding Deck number was 78345 (yep 42") and there is no indication from previous model number changes by year, that they altered the belt size. This is confirmed by Toro online records using 78436 and the serial number. So the 3 way check I made shows the Belt Number to be 102742, type 4L, 103 Inches in length. Edit:- if they need the deck spindle drive belt number for the future, it is 6738. type 4L . 86 Inches in length.

I also reckon it's 81-10k801. 1978 C-101. Scheduled build date was Thursday 18th May going by the Julian date. May only have a 3amp Alternator for Battery charging, as no lights fitted as optional extra?. May be lucky if 15amp Alt fitted. Original Muffler, if not perforated is a bonus. 8 speed trans should be 103916 8 pinion Diff and should have the larger Woodruff Keys in the Axles. Should be salvageable with some TLC. Well done. Edit- correct day entered.

Thanks for the link Alan. Interesting. Ok January 2020 ! . Forgot about your Drummond . More use for the old set of Pre WW11 Whitworth spanners again then . Was hoping to get over to Biddenden to see the Li'll 'D', no luck. Maybe next year when the Doc has sorted me out.

Very nice project Alan . Seems quite sound as far as condition. I like the bolt on Pulley extension to 3 speed changes. Never heard of that make. Should be up and running by January then ! ........assuming a mild winter. Hoping also to get a look at one, but fear it is way too big for me/my facilities, despite it also being a Treadle.

Looks like a productive garden . Is your soil chalk based, or sandy?. Looks very pale in areas. That Hookworm is a species of Privet Hawk Moth (in UK), known in N/America as a Sphinx Moth. Can be up 5 inches Wingspan. The hook is harmless, but can be whip like in movement reacting to attack.

I confess I did not check Ray's part number against the parts list, I just noted the lack of description to identify it. Yes, Wristpin's number 505 (BS46 system) directly crosses to my 'hunch' number 6 on the (US) Chart I posted. Here is a handy size chart that covers DN6888 metric and BS46 imperial comparisons. It is a link to a UK company, as I was unsure if I am allowed to put a company's document in the the Files section here. You can download your own copy though. Woodruff Key Chart

Thanks gents, It was a challenge to clean and sweat the leaking joint areas without 'wicking out' the original solder, plus someone's previous attempts. I'm impressed with how efficient it is at producing a single drop or a greater volume into the most awkward of Lathe points (even works upside down without leaking). They're not common and worth a few quid now, but I won't part with it-