Leaderboard

Here is another pump that your engine could have been part of, there is no branding on this one (if it had a decal it's long gone). The engine SN of this one is #005790. David

I see it takes all of us to keep him straight. look great

All the Best, Andrew. Have a good day.

This is kind of what I was thinking as well. I have the decal and nothing to lose. I haven’t attached it yet but here’s how it would look. I cut a small section of the border so it fits more like a typical decal.

The C-125 has not started right since I did the rebuild. Needed plenty of winding up and juggling of controls. Ran ok when started and I've been living with it. Today I decided enough was enough and set too to get it sorted. First I checked the points. They were a little wide so I adjusted the gap. Didn't help. So removed the air filter and squirted some fuel into the carb. Open the throttle, turn the key and it fired right up. Fuel pump? OK! I'll change that. Got a spare and tested it. Length of pipe on the inlet and end in some petrol. Worked the lever as fast as I could, and a nice jet of fuel shot out. So that was fitted. Still no joy. Decided to change the reconditioned carb I'd fitted, that a friend had rebuilt. Fitted the original carb and that has done the trick. Must be something in the recon' carb not just right. I'll strip it someday and see what I can find. Maybe the float wants re-setting. Definitely not getting enough fuel through. BTW. I'd remove float bowl the other week and that was spotless. The hand over the carb mouth trick didn't help either. So dirt in the carb ruled out.

For you ... forward view

Happy birthday Andrew, I hope you had a good day. Best wishes Iain

Happy Birthday Andrew Another one already.

Happy birthday Andrew Hope you've had a good one !

Happy birthday Andrew 🎂🎂

While mowing the green and verges yesterday, I sensed some vibration, more than usual. I've replaced the anti vibration spacers between engine and wobble plate. After fitting them there was just a trace of vibration. When I'd finished mowing I decided to investigate. I found two broken bolts. One LH rear and one RH front. No wonder there was more vibration. I'd no spare bolts, but I do have a quantity of 10mm cap head Alan bolts. They'll do thinks I. I'll remove the cross bars that the wobble plate sits on and re-thread the holes. The rear bar came of easily. The front was a different kettle of fish. The bolts were inaccessible due to the front axle. So the tractor was jacked up, wheels removed,tie bars disconnected and axle lowered. I could then get at the bolts with a socket and short extension bar. Re-drilling the holes was fun, as I don't have any Vee blocks. Carefully fit in the hand vice and level up with a spirit level. Then tapped them out and re-fitted. Engine of course was still in place, but with a big tyre bar levering the engine up, I got the bars in place. Replace axle, tie bars and wheels. Let the tractor down and then the fun started. Using the same method I replaced the spacers and bolts. But would the bolts line up with the holes.. I must have fought on for an hour and wishing I had four hands. Had a coffee, sit down and a think. Back to the tractor and then it hit me. Wazack! I'd got the rear cross bar in the wrong holes in the chassis/frame. There's two sets about an inch apart and I'd used the rear ones. The rear bar was to far back. Got the bolts started and then another problem showed up. An Alan key/wrench would not fit due to the close proximity of the heads to engine. That was solved by cutting off about 3/8" off the end of a key. That and a 8mm ratchet ring spanner did the job. Got a nice smooth tractor again.