Wristpin

Looking very smart. Interested in the "bumper bar" around the carb. I don't recollect seeing one on any of the very few machines that came our way. I wonder if the carbs were prone to damage if the machine was tipped back to change the rotors etc.

There are nearly 500 lots of garden machinery in the Hobbs Parker Collective at Ashford Market on Friday https://www.hobbsparker.co.uk/auctioneers/auction-dates/?companyId=2#gs.ASVYxBQ

Good advice about fitting a later Magnetron coil but the 130902 engine model number suggests a 5 hp engine which, I believe, may have a slightly different spacing between the mounting pillars from the suggested 3.5 HP donor for the coil. Worth checking before buying. The Magnetron equivalent to the original 298316 coil is 397358

For an older car, a local auction is a good bet. At the other end of the scale, a friend of mine was very pleased with the deal from "We buy..... " when selling a luxury 4 x 4, a bit better than he had been offered by the dealer and gave him more negotiating room for the new one. Either way, it takes away the hassle.

Attempting to straighten a die cast? alloy component has its risks. Is the recoil unit bolted to the cowling? If so, for the time being, could you compensate for the misalignment with spacing washers in the appropriate positions. Alternatively, could you slot the cowling mounting holes in the cowling so as to fudge its alignment on the back plate?

Back in the early 80s I knew someone (now deceased) who bought three, still in their shipping crates and ran them for a while on contract grass cutting. Cheap but not entirely suited to UK conditions! PM sent.

Paul M’s current Gemini thread shows the relevant page in the Parts book where a previous owner has helpfully written in A20 and its metric equivalent so that won’t answer your question. What’s not clear from the posted image of the book is the belt size that appears to have been crossed out. May be there’s a clue there and Paul can enlighten you? If the A20 is literally too short to go on, I would think that. 20.5 may be too short to declutch properly. So possibly a 21 is a better bet but..!?

That's a nice looking beastie! Apologies for the hi-jack but I have an Operator's Handbook for a D270 but have never had an engine to go with it! Going for free if anyone wants it.

Last proper snow here was 8-10 years ago. Unused snow blower sitting in the shed

Coverage for models 1340'1535,1541,1860,1862,1782,1882,2082,2182,190-328,190-336,190-349,190-357,190-358,190-359,190-374,383,433/383, 388/389,759-3493, 2130,2000series,2135,2165,1782,1572,1440,1641,324 54" deck. E&OE. Manuals in good condition (with a few oily finger marks!)

Best described as a bit of a ****. The attached shows the internal setup of the Peerless 800 series transaxle and while reverse does not use first it does not lend itself to any alteration of ratio. https://www.dropbox.com/s/3b82x2vltstxn3n/Peerless 800 series trans0001.pdf?dl=0 I'm not quite sure from your last post whether you are saying that you have to rev the engine too much to engage the clutch or whether the idle speed from which it will accelerate without bogging down is too high for the clutch to disengage? I know that it involves more cash outlay but I believe that you will save yourself a lot of grief by going the hydrostatic route. If your present 'box is in good condition with no slipping or lurching (worn selector keys and their corresponding spur gears), it has a value to offset against a hydro box. PM sent

Ah, didn’t realise that they were cast, quite agree. However, if they were safe to hit, no danger of “ pinging” the circling as the impact is at right angles not logitudanly .

May sound a bit brutal but supporting the boss on a substantial lump of iron such as an anvil or a bit of RSJ / angle iron and hitting the opposite side with a substantial drift and a large lump hammer, rotating the boss as you go, will cause enough "shock stress" free it. Also works well for taper fits.

ebay, "track rod ends mowers", will bring up a few

When it’s going at full chat you will need ear defenders for both yourself and any near neighbours.

Looking good. On the Flymo parts illustration there's a lever to trip the bin latch to allow it to tip. Is there any sign of one having being fitted to yours or was it a latter addition?

Well, maybe I’m being over cautious, but having been involved in the aftermath of a Cub Cadet going into a pond and the mature driver drowning, you can, perhaps, understand my caution.

I would question whether an eight year old should be driving at garden tractor at all but if you've made that decision he should be supervised at all times and all the machine's safety systems, such as the seat pressure switch should be fully functional . If it has not got a seat pressure switch or it has been by passed, that should be rectified. Consider a "kill tag" that cuts out the engine should he fall off or hit his head on a tree bough etc. While anything is possible I think that the installation of a centrifugal clutch and additional brake will not be a simple matter. A tractor with hydrostatic transmission would achieve smooth single pedal or lever control of forward neutral and reverse and give dynamic braking. A used transmission such as a TuffTorq K55 or 46 would fulfil both the above functions and is perfectly "doable" using readily available new and used parts. Alternatively re-sell the machine and buy a hydrostatic one.

Slightly off piste but Mowmaster's handle and avatar reminds me of when the green Mowmaster 332 was introduced at the price of £999, and we sold dozens of those and the later red 333 . Looking back on my records I see one 332 that we sold in 1996 was still returning for an annual service when I retired in 2012.

Difficult to gauge just how wide that lip is but would it be possible to drill some fine holes to accept panel pins, or what ever they are called your side of the pond , and use them as a key for the JB weld?

I'm neither a welder nor a metallurgist but I'm under the impression that magnesium (or may be not a particular alloy of) is flammable so how much heat can be applied? Also can aluminium and magnesium alloy be mixed? To explain my thoughts on magnesium being flammable, many years ago the UK made Ferguson tractors had a magnesium alloy gearbox housing and if one of those tractors was unfortunate to be in a barn fire the result would be a front and a back and a pile of gear wheels - the gearbox casing being entirely vapourised.

A good find there but I would think that the little Suffolk engine would be working quite hard with that ridger (spelling??) body in Wealden clay, but perhaps it's destined for a more relaxed life?

As per my post in Lawnbug thread the Gemini later appeared as the Flymo DM complete with optional traction wheels and tipping hopper, but with a Briggs engine..