factory

From what I can find out, Amsoil seem to only make synthetic oils. Also it looks like Stihl package their oils differently in the US, it looks like it might be the orange bottle "High Performance" version (but why do they not mention mineral anywhere on the bottle or the website? ). https://www.stihlusa.com/products/oils--lubricants-and-fuels/oils-and-lubricants/oilhp/ David

Yes you can cut out a new filter from any suitable modern foam air filter material as Webhead said, I got some from my local garden machinery repair shop. The adaptor is indeed for a glow plug, I wonder why they didn't remove the magneto coil? Possibly they never completed the RC project it was bought for. David

Don't know if this is to recent, but we have an Atco 830 lawn tractor for sale. It's been partly dismantled, the cutter deck and electric start 8HP Briggs & Stratton engine are present but the bonnet is missing. It is also fitted with a tow-bar and brush sweeper drive (sweeper not present) Located near Crewe in Cheshire. PM me if interested, or for more pictures. David

Looks very clean & in nice original condition, the gas tanks are hard to find, but do appear occasionally (note that not all engines were supplied with one either when new). David PS. Don't forget to clean all the old foam out of the air filter.

Yes I use 32:1 ratio for my O&R's and other vintage 2 stroke engines. If you do buy the Stihl oil make sure it's the mineral version (red color). David

I did hear in the news a few months ago that they were considering increasing the ethanol content in fuel over here in the UK, they mentioned it can ruin the seals in old engines and would likely shorten the life of older cars etc. People seem to have different opinions on the type of oil to use, all I know is that modern SAE30 is likely to have harmful additives, see the most recent fuel/mix thread for more info (the OP never did update it with how they got on with the oils they ordered) link below. https://myoldmachine.com/topic/4425-best-fuels-mix-for-tiny-tiger/ I only run mine for short periods and make a fresh fuel mix each time. Be patient & keep searching regularly as the prices vary a lot, also there is someone who keeps buying some of cheap O&R's in the US and then lists them at much higher prices (as well a mixing the parts up, repainting engines that looked in perfectly good original condition & sometimes putting the wrong HP decals on and worst of all has parted out some complete tools & bike kits). Note that the Tiny Tiger was one of the most popular O&R powered products, so you shouldn't have a problem finding one at a more reasonable price, the only exceptions being the less common version with the larger tank and the early & very rare DC only version. David

In the summary I posted, O&R considered the continuous 100 hour test inappropriate for this engine, the main problem with the early engines were the die-cast gears failing (which are not used on your engine). They continued making changes long after the NIAE test too. David

Hi Clint Yes the serial number is very close to mine (030594), I have saved pictures of a few more Type 115 engines and where visible the numbers are within a couple of hundred of mine, so they must have made a batch of them at the same time. To contact Wallfish or Webhead use the letter symbol at the top of the page to send a personal message. You maybe interested in reading the NIAE test report (featuring 3 engines of similar age) that can be found on the linked thread; David

From your description it sounds exactly the same as the Type 115 engine I have in my collection (pictures below), earlier style carb (no primer button), no tank, also no clue as to the original use. Assuming it hasn't already been done, it will likely need a carb clean & rebuild, Webhead or Wallfish on here have new diaphragms for these, the original crumbly air filter foam should be removed/replaced too. The original spark plug would have been a Champion UY6, if the cylinder has 10mm plug thread. Later engines used a 14mm thread spark plug. David

Your O&R display looks very nice in the new shed, I keep meaning to build one myself as I'm running out of space, but never seem to get round to it. David

Webhead or Wallfish on here should be able to supply a new carb diaphragm for your O&R powered Tiny Tiger generator, not sure if Webhead has many carb parts left though, the carbs are often either damaged or missing parts. David

Webhead or Wallfish on here should be able to supply a new carb diaphragm for your O&R engine. David

It's a shame whoever removed the motor contactor (with overload protection?) didn't label the wiring to help with replacing or refitting it. Looking at http://lathes.co.uk/colchester-catalogue-covers/ I see the switch on the front of the panel can select to run just the main motor or both the main motor & pump, there seems to be a separate switch for the light. It's hard to tell if the small transformer is for the low voltage for the contactor coil and/or the lighting? You may be able to buy a manual from http://www.lathes.co.uk/colchester/page2.html , you would need to contact them to find out if it is the correct one for your lathe. Of course if your not sure about it, it's probably best to find a good electrician to sort it out. David

I was thinking it would be very difficult to pack assembled and even part disassembled any fragile parts would need wrapping in plenty of packing to survive the long journey, I don't mind waiting till you are better, looking after your health is more important. As very few of either kit made it to the UK in the 1970's and I've never seen one advertised over here, I have no idea of the value. I will send a PM with my email, as I would be interested in seeing a picture. David

I would like one, but I don't think they be easy to pack or survive shipping to the UK. David P.S. I suspect the problem with adding more pictures is you have run out of free space, by becoming a forum supporter would allow more and help with the cost of running the forum, server space isn't free unfortunately.

Looks very nice, looking through my saved pictures from ebay of the Tiny Tiger Model 5001-1 which I think this is (but it's hard to tell from the pictures), ones in this condition go for around $200-$250 or sometimes a lot more depending on the interest at the time, also advertising internationally on ebay can increase the price. Note the larger gas tank versions like this one are less common than the standard ones. Here is a thread from earlier this year showing how the tank can be resealed; David

Nice find, those O&R powered Tarpen powerheads are quite hard to find. David

There are two main types of tank offered with these engines, an alloy base tank that the engine sits on, or a round steel can tank (some with an internal vent pipe to allow use at various angles). Some tools like the chainsaws and drills had their own special tanks designed for them. If this is the engine from your introduction thread here: Then the tank supplied with it would have been the round steel can type as shown in the diagram below. If you would like any pictures or measurements to help with making a replacement, let me know. David

Another excellent display Paul. There was a fairly rare Petro Chug-A-Drill at the Stourport vintage steam rally last weekend, I didn't go myself but there is a picture on flickr here; David

Here is some data for the other two wires (from my 1993 RS components catalogue, I found nothing online & it seems to be discontinued), apparently this alarm can do nine different tones depending how the green/yellow wires are connected. David

Sorry, I should have mentioned the points cover under the flywheel, take the two screws out & remove the cover, the points are under that (as below). David

The gap between the coil and the flywheel should be .010", you can use a piece of card of the appropriate thickness to keep the coil in place against the flywheel magnets while the screws are being tightened, if adjustment is needed. First thing to check if there is no spark would be the points that are housed behind the flywheel, these could need cleaning and the gap checking (usually .020" but listed as .015" on the decal on earlier engines), if there is still no spark then you could check the wiring and the coil secondary winding resistance if you have a multimeter, though it's rare for the coil to go bad. I recommended you have a read of the carb rebuild thread if you haven't already, Webhead on here sells new carb diaphragms (also Wallfish has them too). And finally if you have the original air filter assembly don't forget to clean out the old crumbly filter foam from it. David

Very nice display as usual. Here are a couple of pictures of a small selection of my O&R's that I displayed at the 1000 engine rally last month, the Tarpen rotary cultivator attachment was bought from one of the stalls there. David

Here is what the manual suggests for getting the lower Carb screw out; This is what I have been using if I need to get the carb screw out without removing the adaptor plate or gearbox (but I usually do a complete engine rebuild instead and remove the adaptor plate or gearbox first). The first two pictures below shows a small flat blade screwdriver (being misused) that fits between the adaptor plate or gearbox mountings, you may need to remove the cylinder plate to gain access. And the last picture shows some other Phillips screwdrivers together with the flat blade one, to use these they would need grinding down to fit between the mountings, I don't want to do this to the orange Wera one but the cheapo one may get modified vandalised. Hope this helps. David

That is a very nice condition later Tiny Tiger with the larger gas/fuel tank. I will check the manual for mine, but I wouldn't recommend using a 350W load continuously, something like a 250W maximum load for continuous use would be better to avoid damage (which is what the early ones were rated for). Those starters can be tricky to repair till you get used to fixing them. David