Wallfish

Yes. I picked up some at an old school hardware store in the little "treasure drawers" that have all the old stuff. Most of the time cleaning them works but it's possible it could be sticking.

Check the check valve ball bearing. If I remember correctly there was service bulletin to change that ball every time a carb was in for service. It can stick closed. Also, always blow air through the fuel inlet after servicing a carb. If the valve is closing correctly you should not be able to blow any air through until you push the primer button. Sometimes the cap pushes down on the arm if the arm is "tweaked". and doesn't allow it to completely seal. I found it easier to use the paper gasket in that situation rather than messing around with the arm. Leaking crankcase seals cause loss of pressure and vacuum inside the case which is what pulses the diaphragm so sometimes a better carb works just to get it running. Try the old one on the engine which the known good carb came from as well. That may help you hunt down the issue.

I was referring to the drill. It looks like a Flash Gordon gun Why didn't you grab the drill in Jan. ? Do you already have one?

My grandson was there when I opened the box for mine. He got all excited when he saw it and asked "Can I shoot it too?" He thought it was a weird gun of some sort.

bet you were just a bit skeptical on how well it work before trying it, huh? I use WD-40 to clear off all of the water , let dry, coat with oil then wipe off the oil with a dry rag. The oil will stay in the pits and help protect it from further deterioration. steel wool will leave scratches as it's harder than the chrome. Most bikers will not use it on their chrome parts because of that and you can see the scratches when it's out in the sun.

Never really looked at it close. Last weekend was the first time it came out of the box. Didn't see it. Those are a rare rare item and I paid $350 ?? plus shipping for mine Just looked it up and it went for $149. Bet if it was listed under O&R it could've fetched $350 plus

Nice find. Try cleaning the chrome handle with crumpled up aluminum foil and water. Or coca-cola. It works really well and doesn't leave scratch marks.

The switch just grounds the points to stop the engine. So wherever that wire connects doesn't necessarily make any difference. It should connect to the engine the same way as the Mustang saw does. Can't remember exactly but I'm pretty sure there's just a short pigtail wire from the nut on the points post up to the handle, and the two wires connect together with small solderless crimp on connectors.

Thanks for the link! Just ordered that plastic one. It's for a guy in Sweden that contacted me about some parts. I'll check it out and see if it fits proper first. Looks like it does and then the box was used for a conversion.

Well it's about time! Don't think I've ever seen them with that label. Could just be European since it's 240v. David, are you aware of any replacements for the ceramic electrical plug on the TTs? Thought maybe @usedtoolman Jim may have found something a long time ago but but it may have gotten lost with the old forum.

That's a new one on me. I've seen pics of the sluice type units where the O&R powers the water pump

Could this be from a sno tiger? Not sure if you were there yet or remember but there was a post on the old forum when a guy had a whole bunch of stuff but he would never reply so I don't think anyone was able to buy it. Anyway, he had some type of vacuum/blower thingys. Maybe?

For $2.20 you can't go wrong. Are you having Eric cut these?

I leave them in there as well but these aren't being run very often either.

The dreaded recoil spring. Nothing worse than getting it all back together and then discovering it was wound the wrong way and it's a redo.

See, David got excited and impressed so much by these little screamers at high rpm he's now the O&R guru.

I bought one from him a while ago. Opened the box, looked at it and closed the box. Though I'd rather have one of the type with a little 1hp classic O&R. Buffalo Turbine It'll get displayed at one of the local engine shows this year.

I'd just go with David's idea. It only needs to ground the points. I know those handles are a tight fit so less wires is helpful but not if you got a ruin the switch

That appears to be a nut which holds the tabs and isolators all together.

@K-TRON Chris was in my area yesterday visiting some of his family and he needed some diaphragms. Unfortunately I didn't have much time to have him visit my house and check out the collections of stuff, but maybe next time. It's always enjoyable to pull that stuff out of those hibernation boxes and share them with other interested people. They'll make it out to a local show or two this year.

If the switch comes apart, you can just remove that insulation ring which David pointed the green arrow to. The switch body appears to be isolated from those tabs and by removing that insulation ring you are just connecting the tab to the switch body. The switch body will connect to ground when it's installed on the handle and therefore ground the the wire when the the button is pressed which connects those 2 contacts. Either way you do it will work fine.

IMO if you are going for a running display engine to demonstrate, go FWO. Those little things scream at high rpm and it's quite a bit more exciting like that than a slow idling engine with momentary high rpm by controlling it! It's the first impression that's gets'em excited so instant full blast always works. just my $0.02 on it.

BEFORE smashing them with a hammer! The best way to learn in my opinion is to just keep at it. You'll figure out what works and what doesn't but it can easily get frustrating at times.

Glad you got her going. To me it sounds like it might've been flooding. Carb needle opened too far. If the seals are leaking too much it will be difficult to dial in the carb. Sometimes you can get them to start easy but not run right and/or run right but not start easy. Once you get playing around with these enough, you'll learn quickly.

Think the Lubriplate will still work even if you did run it hard. I use it in the front worm gear gearbox on my tractor's 2 stage snow blower instead of gear oil. There's also a product called Corn Head grease which is made for John Deere for using in gearboxes for leaking seals.