Anglo Traction

Great little Chainsaw. Look's like you have one of the early versions, as I believe that is a 1/4" pitch Chain on it. Introduced in 1970. Could not find stats on an Auto Oil Feed version, but this link may show up a lot of similarities and info if you sell it on- McCulloch If you keep it, may find it difficult to obtain a 1/4" pitch Saw Chain, but you may have luck in converting it to 3/8" (economically) like I did with my 71 Beaird-Poulan XXV. They changed over to 3/8" later on in '72'- ish on yours. Nice find, I would keep it .

Back at last. Finished machining the 2 Spacer Collars- Heat treated them on Sunday, as I then used the Oven (while roasting Dinner) to temper them for an hour at 200c. Polished up and all good with no distortion, should be as hard and strong as the originals The 'T' shaped Lift Bar that fits in the Tractor Frame was in a mess. Distorted, rusty and worn out (sound's like me). I was going to cut the Pivot Rod and Pin off, then make and weld on new ones, but a 2nd check meant that I could get away with straightening, cleaning and adding weld metal to bring back to good nick. Made a new bushing for it- Also had to make and harden 2 more Spacers for the Deck Brackets to take the wear/slop out of the Draught Bar's pivots (Draft Bar U.S and Swingletree in old English). So a little collection of bits which sort out the Deck to Tractor issues- The Spring n Brass collar with the Fibre washer are a 'cunning plan' mod to retain grease in the Blind hole in the Tractor Frame and keep the dirt out Made new Rubber Bumpers for the Draught Bars and so all ready to fit- Mmm, should have cropped that image a bit. So (2nd) repaired Spindle now in the Deck, have parts to make a whole spare Spindle Ass'y once the odd size bearing arrives (and machine/harden a big spacer). Found the 2 Trunnions are well worn, so making new ones of them at the mo' - . Mark n Ewan's supplied decals are stuck on, so not far to go now, you'll be glad to hear !.

Very nice shot Alain. A Red Spotted Purple Admiral. A good 3 1/2" wingspan. Wish we had some that size over here. I used to know all of the British Butterflies when I was young and I recall I had only 10 that I had never seen.

Hello Ray, Flywheel end is stated as the Front, choose your Engine and Type from the images below-

Good to see progress on a very good quality Lathe. S & B made Tool Room standard machines and yours will, I'm sure, produce very good results. The E H Jones Plate is the Retailer/Distributor of Machine Tools in the UK much of the first half of the last Century. As a coincidence, I have an item which covers both EHJ and the name 'Victor' on your Chuck from 1948 (about the same age as your Lathe) Here's some images- If you're not aware, the 'Smart and Brown' Company does still exist .....in a different form, but you can still obtain parts and information you may require. Here is a link- Bracehand Ltd Here are links via my favourite Old Engineering Search Site to some possible info you may be interested in- VICTOR (general search only shows up a modern Taiwanese Company) EHJ Lastly, I assume the 'Engineers Blue' marks are on the mating face of the Lathe Tray/Bed to Stand?. Used to identify the amount of contact between them. Progressively scraped as you say, or filed until an acceptable amount of contact and level was achieved.

Hi Allen, I'm still concerned that you may be going down the wrong path by obtaining a shorter Belt. I have suspicions that there is an issue with your Clutching Linkage and/or the strength of the Extension Spring fitted. It sounds like the Spring fitted on yours is too weak to perform it's task properly. I have to use great effort and both hands to fit the Springs on mine. It is difficult to help when I/we can't see the machine, but I have an image of one fitted to my '74' C-120 (same set up as yours) and under tension- I can't endorse the fitting of a shorter belt, when you may find it won't help and then have to obtain other parts and another correct size belt to get your Tractor working properly as it should again. Just in case you need them, the Part number for the Extension Spring was 1014, but now Toro 83-2730. And I can give you the approximate dimensions- 1014 Spring, Extension, 4.500" between hooks, 0.070" wire, 0.520" coil OD, 0.380 coil ID, 3.570" coil length, 52 + 2 1/2 coils = 53. Don't know the Draw rate in Pounds I'm afraid. I fitted a stronger one, same length , wire 0.125", 0.750" Coil OD .

Hoping to pay a visit this weekend. Not sure yet if Sat or Sun. Think you're ok for the good weather both days.

Just heard this machine is going to a good home. A Motorbike Restorer bought it and when finished, it will be going back to Germany to a Museum apparently.

Sorry Mark, Shame......... I could have managed another Beer . Next time I'll be ready. As for the Whiskers, yeah have to fit into the Stereotype now I'm an 'Old Git'. Actually just having a temporary, reprieve from the Blade every morning.

I would be interested to know the Model Number of that 8Hp WH if possible

Don't think I was close Chris. I was staying at one of the houses at the end of St Margaret's Bay Beach in Kent. Lulled to sleep each night by the Lapping waves about 30 feet away from the house and no hangovers !!!. Came back via the M2/A249/M26. Oh yes I have/can !. Been practicing for several years now

Any guesses where I'm lounging around for a few days? It's where the sunrise is observed first in the UK apparently. Thought it may be a good idea for a thread!.

They're stated as Footrests in the Parts Manual Part number 4421. You can search using that Toro Wheel Horse number online.

Very good job done Ray. 1978 (85-36MR01) Deck/Spindles and you appear to have 1979 Belt Covers that were fitted to 95-36XR00. The Spindles/Bearings are much easier and cheaper to replace than the old ones I have. I see you finished it off with a nice pair of new Gauge Wheels.

I've always seen quotes for measuring Belts around the outside, which concurs with my tests on new belts. If you have a piece of Rope with a thickness of about 5/8 or 16mm you can fit around the Pulleys keeping it taught and check the length that way. Measuring an old Belt is of no real use, as it has most likely stretched and worn out. Also check the Clutch Spring is good and strong, so it pulls the Clutching Idler Pulley up tight onto the belt. Do you have a local supplier for your parts, or go somewhere like Gosford Equipment Ltd?.

Yes Alain, I have to work out why something fails, only then can a way be found to sort the problem and maybe reduce the risk of it reoccurring. These parts I need are obtainable in US, but lots of Dosh to ship over, so I started on making my own yesterday, after dashing around to my local supplier for the last piece of 1" dia precision ground Silver Steel (Drill Rod in U.S.) in their stock- Long job cutting a length off with the Hacksaw, but reached a point where the first item/part's bore is machined to size (3/4") on the lathe and ready to be transferred to the Milling Machine (still in the Chuck) for the Slots to be cut, before returning to the lathe for finishing & Parting it off- I shall go quiet for a while on this until I have finished the parts which will require hardening/tempering and a spare complete Spindle Assembly I located arrives.

They're still around and being offered for sale, at least in U.S. I know it probably won't help Ray much, but if the price fits one's pocket, then you can obtain them. So if only for the sake of enquiry, ask Meetens if they have Kohler part number 4787412-s in their Dusty Shelf stock. Yes, I remember them. Also remember my Dad saying he fitted them in his 1930s Morris 8 Tourer back around 1960.

I have seen that manual before, but I don't know what version of Engine Manual the links point to. If it is ENS-575, then it was superceded to Kohler K series Manual TP2379 (revised in 1992). Piston/Ring Sizes mentioned in sections 1 and 11, the latter referring to Cylinder maintenance.

Yes, most likely get away with a Standard Service Ring Set if Ray is lucky.. No decimal point in wrong place Angus. If Ray's Bore is worn past the Std tolerance Limits, there is a small chance Paul at Meetens may just have a Piston/Ring set of +3 thou in stock (if anyone has them he will). This will allow just a de glaze/Hone and avoids a Rebore/Hone and requiring as you say +10,20 or 30 thou oversize- . I used Chromed edge Rings on my 12hp as it was rebored +20thou and honed to the correct angle of score marks for that type of ring to perform properly- Regards

Sorry Allen, I just realised you're going to get a shorter Belt. The Only things I can think of that requires you to get a shorter Belt are- wrong diameter of the 3 Pulleys fitted......Clutch mechanism not taking up the Tension and the position of the Engine on the Frame. I believe you've had the Tractor for several years, so you probably know it better than me.

No problem. If you are getting a genuine toro part 7473, then all will be fine. If you get an Aftermarket alternative check that the section of the Belt is as near to these dimensions as possible- The reason is that the Disengagement Tabs on the Belt Cover must be properly adjusted and the Belt must be just proud of the Engine Pulley for it to work properly.

Depends on the condition of your engine Bore. If it is only lightly worn and been honed/de-glazed, then look to use Cast Iron .....they will bed in quicker. They should also be available in STD +0-003" oversize to fit in slightly worn Bore. They will also bed in better if the bore is slightly 'out-of-round'. Chrome rings , like Norm says will last longer, but the bore must be good i.e. straight, parallel and Honed. They won't tolerate dirty Oil. They are suited for high compression and performance conditions and take a long time to bed in, which means it will probably use more oil.

Yes it will be, I want it fully 'tip-top' serviceable, as I'll sell it on at some point, maybe attached to the C-120. Most Spindles nowadays use 'Sealed-for-Life'. Just found that the lower end of this Spindle Housing has been opened up to 1 5/8" from 40mm and they machined it too deeply, so more problems to sort. Have to check the remaining one now, just to be sure.

Hi Norm, No I won't remove any seals. Going to apply grease to the internal parts prior to assembly, then blank the Grease Zerk point off. I will apply grease into the upper area between the top of the Bearing and the separate Oil Seal below the Pulley and inside the bottom Spindle Cup to keep any water away from the lower Bearing.

Found more problems when I torqued up another Spindle Nut, no longer smooth n quiet. Had to dismantle it to see what was going on. Spacer tube on Left and the Shaft Oil Seal Collar on right - This look's very much like the Assembly had seized up in the past where the top Inner Race began turning with the Spindle and wore down the Spacer end and broke up. Collar also somehow cracked and lost metal in the cutout recess. Have to make the replacement parts as unobtainable separately new. Also a pic to show why both Seals on the top Bearing need to be removed if Grease replenishment is planned after new ones fitted, the grease will only come out of the seal below the Pulley because it can't get past the top seal if left in place- Hope this helps. Regards. .