Anglo Traction

Thanks gents, It was a challenge to clean and sweat the leaking joint areas without 'wicking out' the original solder, plus someone's previous attempts. I'm impressed with how efficient it is at producing a single drop or a greater volume into the most awkward of Lathe points (even works upside down without leaking). They're not common and worth a few quid now, but I won't part with it-

No problem Ray, I try to help anyone. So it's a bit beefier than I predicted. I have to assume due to the machine's age, it is Imperial and not Metric?. Your measurements give 2 possibilities of Key size. I reckon it could be either one of nbr 6 or 8 in this handy size chart- Best thing to do is check the depth of the keyway recess in the shaft and add the depth of the slot in the Backplate to get an idea of the Woodruff Key height.They are fairly cheap, so it may be worth ordering a couple of sizes close to your findings from here - Imp Woodruff Key to be sure of the right one (#6 would be my hunch). The backplate slot width difference may well be due to wear. Hope this helps, as I don't have any of those sizes.

I've been looking for a decent Oil Can that will serve my elderly Myford ML7 for some time. New quality pump oilers are not cheap, have unsuitable nozzles, or too big. Much sought after, old quality ones like Braimes or some Westcos would do, but I stumbled over a little gem a few days ago and saved it from the bin. I like to delve into history of items that I find and to my surprise, I find loads of it, so I'll include some here in case some may also be interested. This is the Joseph Lucas Ltd No 40. 1/4 pint Oiler- The pics are after I had to fully clean it out to a dry state due to joint damage/leaks around the Plunger - Body collar and the base of the spout. Joints were cleaned out and re soldered. This Oiler version is shown in a 1924 Advertisement that describes it's purpose as tool for use on small Cars and Cyclecars and sold for 7 shillings and 6 pence (37.1/2 new pence today). There was also a bracket which you could purchase at the cost of 1 shilling (5 pence) to fit on the under bonnet (hood) bulkhead, or in the toolbox of the car to stow the Oiler safely. Noted that some examples sold at Auto Auctioneers were claimed to be part of the Toolkit for Bentley, Rolls Royce etc!, but I suspect they would have been nickel plated if supplied to them. The makers name is that of the Automotive Electrical suppliers of dynamos, lights, relays etc of recent years. With the joint repairs done and cleaned up, I gave it just a light clean over the rest of it and had no intention of attempting to remove, clean the age scarring or dents. The only real damage was the broken off threaded tip of the spout where, according to Lucas' info, it had a little cap screwed on the tip for whe not in use. The tip being broken was not usable like this, so I managed to identify the thread form from the 2 remaining full threads and established it to be 1/8" Whitworth (40 threads per inch). Spookily, Whitworth is the basis of the creation of the 'Model Engineer Series' thread form in 1909 and I have a set of those Taps and Dies, so sorted that issue. Took some measurements and some hard Brass and made the parts as close to the original as poss, but not fussed with accuracy- Soldered the tip in place- So there it is. Even the original leather washers are still fine. I'm always impressed with things that were made then, for example this can has the number 428 stamped on the handle as a production number and the base has a 'G' stamped in representing the individual who checked it for quality over 90 years ago. Regards

I have never seen one of those, so have no idea what one looks like. Can only suggest you look at the Poulan Chainsaw Thread in Other Garden Machines and compare my images with your carb. Usually, if there is no primer bulb, then it primes/supplies fuel using a vacuum diaphragm system in the carb.

I may have one, Can't remember the size now, but either a Nbr 3 or 5 woodruff. Should be 1/8" wide for a 3/4" dia shaft. Measure the keyway width in the shaft and the length for me and I'll check my stock.

Just wondering about the duration of this current dry spell the other day and I had to venture out yesterday. I took the shady tree lined country road route, where I twigged that phenomenon of Summer Branch Drop is now occurring. I suppose it was bound to happen, but has yet to become a real common and dangerous occurrence. With the forecast only offering a brief respite over the next few days in my area (south eastern England), and maybe even some rain, it will get hotter again soon after for quite a while. I've heard that some public events are being cancelled due to heat !. A shame, but understandable really. It is really worth remembering that using trees as shade in this weather (in UK) is risky due to branch drop. I assume it can happen in other countries as well.

No real loss with that chain then, looked past serviceable to me. I was looking for the circumference measurement of the chain on the 2 fitted Sprockets, because, believe it or not, I may have just the thing to fit. I need to be sure it will fit without excessive stretch. At least you may have a last resort if the 'O' ring is unobtainable.

Would be handy to establish if the Engine output shaft/Pulley unit has a parallel shaft, or tapered, with a Keyway. Certainly Mark's suggestion will add the advantage of some heat to create a difference between the 2 components, to improve separation.

Yeah !. You just wanted a bigger toy to drive really Mark . Must say it looks a real fun magnet and I hope you find many hours of fun work for it.

Glad it was enjoyable, good pics thanks. Shame it was over a hot weekend and lots of Sporty distractions on TV. The British Anzani reminded me of one of the several challenges I'm being badgered with .

Just had another look at the second chain (on the Osprey). Have a look on the inside of the chain for the split retaining Cotter Ray, right next to the Cranked Link (half). I think I was wrong and it is correct, as there are the right number of Links in that chain in total (53), so it may have been fitted on the inside edge. Can't be sure, but I think the chain is 1/2" pitch and a new cottered connecting link is available, as well as chain if required.

They certainly have done a superb job on them. Noticed the White Mini Van must be an ongoing project. Missing Wipers...Very nice though. My favourite would be what look's like an MG TA ( Red) 2nd pic of 2nd batch. Nice Moggy Van by the way Andrew .

Yep!, Reckon that is another bodge to eliminate chain slack. May have fitted the half link in situ in consideration to the points mentioned in my PM regarding the Axle movement restrictions with Keyway and Circlip. Other more experienced Members familiar with this model may offer more accurate/beneficial advice than I, but my opinion of the amount of slack in the chain is not of great significance. If you refer to the earlier image of 'Spot the Removable Link'. that amount of slack is not an issue in a correctly installed set up. This is because there should be a large 'O' ring fitted around the Chain. My interpretation of the fitting of it is- - to provide a retaining effect which prevents chain slap against the inside of the Cover Plate - acts as a grease retainer - maintains pressure to ensure chain engages teeth on the sprockets efficiently. My bet is these are missing on both of your machines. If you can carefully measure the outer circumference of the chain/sprockets and post it on here please. At this point, I am not sure of the availability of spare parts are for these, so here is a link for you to make enquiries about any parts we are discussing- PARTS Replacing bronze bushings should not be a problem, as most imperial sizes are still available. Replacing the Clutch friction material as mentioned in PM- The thickness was about 5-6mm Woven (probably 1/4" when new). Not sure if you're buying sheet to cut your own, or having Autoandindustrial to precut for you?. I've shifted these images to this thread, rather than put links in to make it easier. If you're cutting your own, a junior hacksaw will work and lining is safe with no asbestos. The diameter of the linings are slightly larger than the diameter of the plates either side to ensure even plate wear- You should be able to assess measurements from this pic for the inner diameter cutout by comparison with your own plates. Also gives an idea of the important clearance of the friction lining edge and the proximity of the chain. No grease must be allowed near the lining- Hope this helps and keep at it.

Great pics, thanks. Noticed there is also a trend of creating 105E Pickups (Anglias). White Minivan reminds me of my first car.

Yes Norm, on Thurs 5th Jul, I believe that was the last known one and of the greatest magnitude. Unusual around here, At least the Wine n Spirit store is intact

I wondered why I had found my Fluorescent garage/workshop light had parted company with the ceiling and hanging on the cable ties when I got back from shopping last Thursday?. Also found 2 empty cans had fallen off the shelf edge. The light was well fitted only recently. Today, I was told we had had an Earth Tremor again !. Yeah right I thought,...... until I was advised to check the BBC news website - Surrey Shaker .

It's a bodge Ray. Have a look through this Thread for pics of what it should look like OSPREY. I've sent you a copy of the Manual which should cover it (via PM) As for the link in the chain, I think I see it arrowed here - Open end is usually on the trailing side of rotation . You'll probably need to obtain and bond new friction pads onto the Toothed Clutch Plate. A link to the people I've used in the past if it helps- Friction . Bonding them well requires scrupulous cleaning and a good bonding resin like Araldite Original ( NOT the 5 min stuff). I'm sure Wristpin, Nigel and others will offer more experienced options and advice on that and the machine. Edit in RED

That's good news !. Enjoy the new lease of energy. You've got me worried now with what I assume are age related symptoms. An appointment with my Quack is probably overdue after over 5 years since. Just got to find my way through all the 'Hoops' to get to see them.

Hello Dave, Early 60s should have read 1966, my mistake, so should have been 'Mid 60s'. Info from -HERE- Which you are free to deem correct or incorrect. I mentioned Chrome Bores as an example of allowable benefit for increasing the Fuel to Oil ratio in my Saw from the original Maker's recommendation. Which was explained to me by the owner of the Site in the link here (I was informed it was acceptable for me to use a Semi Synthetic Oil in my engine if I wish without harm). Any reference to O & R Engine's design similarities and subsequently legitimising Ratio changes was not intended. The clarity you've provided on spec of various O&R Engines, I'm sure will be of benefit to owners/users. I'm in full agreement with you on the Old Oil for Old Engines. Interesting point of the Alkylate issue.

Hi, I'm no expert with these engines, but I checked the records for an O & R 1 Hp Chainsaw model from early 1960s and it lists ratio as 16-1. Now I have had discussions with the Chainsaw Website owner in the past and he reckons that if you have an engine that has a Chromed bore, then that Petrol/Gas ratio can be increased safely to 25-1. My 72 Beaird-Poulan Chainsaw has a Chromed Bore and I use that ratio, as well as classic 40wt Mineral Oil (to avoid any issues with synthetic additives affecting the old Oil Seals). I also find that 25-1 is mentioned for these O & R engines on U-tube examples. As for a suitable Oil available in your Country, I found this example is basic Mineral with no Additives- OIL API-SA grade is devoid of Additives listed here- I'm sure there will be a fellow expert Countryman along at some stage to offer guidance, as I'm on the other side of the Pond. Hope this helps

Dial Indicator now lives in it's padded box-

Can't rush a work of Art Norm . He is probably been beavering away since the workshop warmed up.

Nice job with those mean looking Blades . Presume you are Grubbing out the area below the trees for the purpose of surface root reduction?.

I reckon Alain is right, the WH Cultivator model is an example and is/was in 2 parts, Mid Mounted and Rear Mounted. The rear part is this- But it only had 4 Standards and Shovels on the Rear and 3 on the Mid Section and both sections are raised using the Lift Lever. Should be no reason for your example to perform ok, but may need extending to prevent contact with the rear wheels on the turn. Edit- Model # is 7-1723 and requires either a Slot Hitch (pictured) or a Clevis Hitch. Seems each WH attachment was specific to a duty and not a unit with various fittings. Other makers Attachments were offered by WH as options though.

May be for making corrugated Pipe Joints?. It is missing 1 roll which should reside in the long slots (one with a cap on, other open). required to form it circular to various sizes. A possible explanation/description -HERE- Nice find Chris, and you can make the 3rd Roll on your new-to-you Lathe !! .........or if you want to shift it on I may be interested ?.