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He/dad would have to buy steel , Chris. And you now what those Yorkshiremen are like.

First i started to strip the tractor down, there were many modifications which needed to be rectified. There were some splined hubs which had been made to fit, they were first to go and they revealed the state of the axles, very rusty and holes drilled in them. Next I cut off the front axle which has been welded on. Next we welded the chassis back how its meant to be and welded up the extra holes. the hood stand required some straightening, some ingenuity was needed.

Due to having a few issues going on I haven't touched this for nearly 2 months. Heres where im up to.

Thats the plan Norm, another 12 weeks to work on it yet It wasn't too bad, its all fixed and primed now and looks good as new, plus its original Haha, you say that but we've got plenty of new steel here , I could've made one but i'd like to keep as much original as possible. Next job on the resto was to tackle the gearbox which didn't work There was holes drilled in the axle ends. Mangled input shaft To make the axles on the diff useable we flipped them around, first we welded the holes, turned them down and cut new keyways. one of the bushes was worn so we machined a new one and fit it. To turn the input shaft down we had to use a bit of ingenuity, we clamped it in a taper lock and turned it down so I can use a taper lock pulley on it. The jig worked a treat. Next everything was cleaned of rust. New gaskets were made. We welded up surplus holes. The gearbox is now back together, primed and works as good as new

I can't believe what my brother brought back from the local car boot sale this morning, an Orline (Edit: actually a CARBRA) hedge trimmer with an O&R model 20A engine!! I don't think I've seen a model 20A engine on a hedge trimmer before and the it's first 20A I've seen in the UK (apart from on a chainsaw I have, but that was imported from the US). It has been repainted at some point in the past, but the back of the engine housing still has the some of the original white paint on it though. The engine is a model 20A type 333, seems they riveted the model & serial number plates to the 20A engines instead of using the cylinder plate that gets lost on the later 13A/B engines. David

I've finally got around to creating a thread for the restoration of my RJ I have been working on. Many thanks to Chris for sourcing the engine, we're working on getting it going, also thanks to Ian for helping me out with the measurements of the front axle and lastly thanks to Chris (showman) for letting me take measurements from his RJ at Newby hall! Heres some photos of the RJ before I started

Here we have 4 of my British made Trojan Toraktors Built in early the 1960`s The Trojans here are a series 3 & the series 4 Only 500 tracters were ever built & i am told by the Trojan museum trust that there are less than 100 surviving & the MK4 i am told was the least made as Trojan ceased trading the same year that the MK4 went into production

A very good show in deepest West Sussex visited today. Horticultural machines were with the stationary engines (separate section next year ?). Here's some photos... And some more including some bloke in a red t shirt who looks vaguely familiar...

Nice work, Ewan.

Right now what you have there is a bitza the chassis , gearbox and engine arnt Trojan in fact it might only be the bonnet that is, theback wheels look to big as well. But you still have the basics of some thing very nice there , I have done the same thing in the past, building tractors from many different parts and. Ime sure with a bit of work you could turn it into a nice tractor that's worth a few bob, and would go down well at shows

Here are the pics of my Trojan and I would be interested in any literature you might have for this Trojan. Thanks for your help I'm afraid that the site won't allow me to add any more pictures:(

I think i might have been tempted to make a new chassis looking at all those holes and bits cut out

You certainly do, Ewan. It'll be finished by the time you go back to uni.

Ewan, if it's anything like your Cub Cadet resto, this will be another WH salavaged from the scrap heap. Look forward to reading more more about the project in due course.

Hi, yes very true, its a shame really, as in the right circumstances its a nice trade to be in, but youngsters are not keen.......... No fires at all from position one, quite a few from position two, so we have gone with that, oh and yes not at first but later popped cover off removed belt, arrrr what joy....... haha much better !!! I have a new plug arrive today and in my excitement i had forgot to clean out the carb and air filter as it had been stood for a while, must re check points gap again and set as per manufactures gap if i could only find it, just gone for thick card gap. Thank you

Just spent a lovely weekend at Wiston steam rally, here's a few photos of stuff I liked and some general view shots so you can see the size of the show Here's a few more and into Saturday night at the beer tent.

Yes it does and yes I have. Very carefully.

Hi All, just a quick update from my last post really !! JB from Hayter has now retired sadly for me but great for John, hope hes enjoying all his well deserved free time !!! I have now managed to get a spark, more by luck then educated judgement................. but its a real effort to pull the old girl over and it back fires loudly !! hence more fettling and work in progress to do, i also found when conducting an internet search if you add Rockwell JLO you suddenly open up a world of info on these Two stroke engines, but sadly my L197 type engine looks to be the rarest with little info available, but some good guidelines to read in between for set up etc . Hope that helps anyone else who has one of these machines Best regards Nigel

And some more including my vehicle of the show, a really nicely restored Ford Transit Mark 1 drop side pickup...

Finally got around to trying out the sickle bar this afternoon. I'm really pleased with it to be honest. Took it down the overgrown bridleway past my home. Long, heavy, thick damp grass. Did two passes. One down, then one back up. Result below.

All finished and ready to test. Took that in the morning and was going to see what it was like this afternoon after I'd done an oil change. Unfortunately I got a call from the farm and had to go and drive a big tractor.

I sold my Haban finger bar last year, I think, to Iain. Hefty machines.

That makes three I know of Iain?

Fantastic job Norm, it looks great. I have a Haban sickle bar mower and they are a very handy tool. I used mine in the vertical position once to trim the side of a hedge and it frightened the life out of me. Iain

Stripped it down this morning and got it all painted. Put it all back together tonight and a problem rear it's head. The cutter was sticking. So off came the bar and I removed the blade. Soon saw the problem. Paint had got onto the slide. A clean off with emery clothe and back together I could pull the blade back and forth easily. Back on the machine and it ran fine. I gave it some oil and left it running for 15 minutes. Couldn't resist the temptation and tried some paper through it. Cut it without problem. Maybe get to try it on some grass tomorrow.

This morning I sorted out the belt tensioner. I cut the end off the tensioner where the bearing had fitted. Turned a sleeve to fit the I.D. of the insert that goes in the pulley bearing. Then put it all together. I refitted the tensioner to tractor, same way as before and gave it a try. Now the flat of the belt was running in the V of the pulley. Not really an Ideal thing, plus the belt flapped a bit. So a bit of thinking and trying different positions, here is what I ended up with. Seems to work fine and as soon as I can I'll give it a trial.

More messing around with this project today..... Had some 6mm plywood lying around, thought i'd make a 'battery box' to go with the exhibit....... Only had to buy the hinges, catch and 15x18mm timber..... Even the battery is a 'freebie'

Well done Darren.

Thanks Chris! New bits arrived at 10.30 this morning....... The list of 'to do's' was.... 1.Hone bore. 2.Scrape ring grooves. 3.Fit new rings. 4.Refit piston. 5.Refit oil dipper/conrod end cap. 6.Make new sump gasket. 7.Refit sump. 8.Refit cylinder head. 9.Refit air shroud and tank. 10.Bolt engine back onto trolley. 11.Add oil and fuel. 12.Refit belt and tension. 13.Start.......... All done by 12 noon! 😁 Am very pleased to say it started 1st pull and NO more smoke from the breather! Here's a short video and a piccie of an old ring(silver ring)against a new(black)....

You may have noticed in the videos that the Villiers is smoking from the breather......? I was suspicious of the condition of the piston rings? The restoration was purely a cursory check of the bore and that the rings weren't broken. Everything else seemed fine, no excessive play elseshere........ Well, initial checks to see if i'd overfilled the oil or put the wrong stuff in proved I hadn't, so yesterday I decided to investigate things a bit further...... I pulled the shroud and cylinder head off and found oil on the piston crown and inside cylinder head. The plug was also black and oily! Rings it is then..... After stripping the sump and removing the oil dipper/end cap, I removed the piston to get to the rings. Once the rings were removed I compared them with some +20 I have spare? I'm pretty sure +40 rings should be bigger than +20s??? These weren't...... Either someone has put standard rings on the +40 piston or these rings are worn excessively? I checked one in the bore too and it was so loose, it doesn't even close the gap!!! New rings ordered, should be here today!

Cured the belt whip with a salvaged tensioner from a Daewoo Matiz! (I don't own one, just asked my mechanic friend if he had any old ones) I looked at several from different cars, most were way too big. But this one proved perfect once I had made a bracket to mount it on...... Also tidied up the wiring and fitted the 'no charge' light in the panel.

Bars fitted........

Me too Norm!

Looking forward to the light display.

A quick 'trial fit' this evening....... I think they'll do??? (Ignore my sons choice of attire...... was just before I took him to football) Ordered these few bits, ammeter, switch and charge/warning lamp, all for under a tenner! Will be mounted in the flat panel.........

Welded the handlebars together this morning, then primed and painted them. The paint dried totally in about 30 minutes in the sunshine, so I fitted the grips!

Like your tattoo, but not sure about your choice of footwear and trousers. The wife has her uses sometimes! Even if it was just add a little weight to stop the bounce!!! Lol😂😂😂😂

Like your tattoo, but not sure about your choice of footwear and trousers.

Was a little concerned about hot exhaust gases being directed onto the plastic of the voltage regulator..... So the simple fix was to drill 2 new holes in the exhaust flange and rotate it by about 20°........ My next task was to 'tinker' with the wiring part of this project....... I am pleased to say that it all works! I will probably change to a larger pulley on the engine to improve alternator speed slightly..... but it charges my car battery very well at 14.20 volts on a little more than tickover!😁😁😁 Whilst running the overall trolley is heavier engine end, leading it to bounce a little alternator end. A solution could be to add some weight? The idea I had was to make some handlebars from 3/4 steel tubing...... with a central support brace and a plate to mount a 'charge' light and switch...... Here is the bars cut, bent and ready for welding tomorrow.

Yep!